Cavallo Jaket : Brunello Cucinelli
The Brunello Cucinelli jacket that changed my casual style.
Introduction.
I rarely had the opportunity to wear tailored jackets in a casual style, as jeans are the basis of my dressing style, but Brunello Cucinelli tailored jackets are amazing and I wanted to wear them when I wear jeans, so during the spring/summer season I had a made-to-order MTM I had a Brunello Cucinelli tailored jacket made and I loved it.
As well as the details and fabrics, the sizing is great and fits well, so I wear it often and enjoy wearing the tailored jacket with jeans. I would like to introduce a casual tailored jacket called Cavallo, which was tailored to order.
How I ordered the jacket
Brunello Cucinelli is mentioned in the article on field jackets, but the first jacket I bought was a ready-made double blazer tailored in corduroy for the autumn/winter season. (I will introduce this too when the season comes).
It was with this blazer that I was first introduced to the excellence of Brunello Cucinelli’s products, which led me to visit the Brunello Cucinelli Ginza shop from time to time to try my hand at other jackets as well.
My contact person tells me that if I like a Brunello Cucinelli jacket or suit, I can buy ready-to-wear, but that I will be more satisfied if I have a jacket custom-made (MTM).
The staff member in charge has thought carefully about the composition of the clothes I have, and if I later decide to get a Brunello Cucinelli jacket or suit, I will naturally wear only MTM jackets because I am more satisfied with MTM jackets than ready-made jackets, I wear them more often, and they fit my body better This means that you will naturally wear only MTM jackets. If possible, it is more economical (more satisfaction and more chances to wear it) to get an MTM jacket from the beginning.
After hearing this, I suddenly became interested in ordering an MTM and wanted to make a spring/summer jacket that I could wear casually while wearing jeans. When I expressed my interest, samples of spring/summer jackets arrived at the shop, and when I was shown them, I could sort of understand the pattern of a Brunello Cucinelli jacket, and I could see the ordering process of choosing the fabric of my choice for this, so I decided to take the plunge and do an MTM.
Actual order
Visit the Brunello Cucinelli Ginza shop and have a jacket tailored by MTM.
At MTM, the type of jacket, fabric and details are decided and measurements are taken. Trousers for the set-up can also be tailored together, but I did not ask for this.
The jacket I chose is a Cavallo jacket.
Cavallo means horse in Italian and is the shape of the jacket worn when riding a horse, shaped to lean forward. This shaped jacket is called unconstructed, meaning that it has no shoulder pads or other interlining, giving it a relaxed, casual impression.
Details such as a single, three-button narrow lapel, a slightly wider collar, four buttons on the sleeves, horn buttons, chest and side patch pockets, burgundy lining, side vents and even Brunello Cucinelli chooses a casual type. The choice of fabric is tricky, but as it is the spring/summer season, a linen fabric is chosen, and although the colour is a slightly darker grey is decided on as jeans and a white T-shirt will be the main look.
From there, I put on the sample jacket, stick the sizing needle into the jacket and measure the required neck, waist and bust sizes. After the approximate measurements are taken, a photo of the sample jacket with the measurements and needle is sent to Italy, and the jacket is tailored by a craftsman in the Italian village of Solomeo. The delivery time is about two months and we look forward to the finished product.
Decisions to be made at MTM.
- Choose the type of jacket you want to order from the seven basic types of jackets.
- Decide whether you want a single or double jacket.
- Decide on the collar shape, this time choosing a wide narrow lapel.
- Decide on breast pockets and side pockets, this time all three will be patch pockets without flaps.
- Once you have decided on the shape of the jacket, choose the fabric. This time it is linen, cotton and silk, dark grey with light nep.
- Choose the material for the three buttons on the front and the four buttons on the sleeves, this time ivory horn.
- Choose the colour of the lining, this time burgundy.
- Decide whether to wear trousers or not, this time no trousers as they will be worn with jeans.
- After deciding on the above, a dedicated fitter will take the necessary measurements, wear a jacket of a similar shape and size and stick the needle in.
- The measurements taken and a photograph of a sample jacket are sent to Italy and the jacket is tailored by a specialised craftsman.
- It takes approximately two months to complete.
MTM prices vary depending on fabric, shape and details. As a rough guide, it is about 20% more expensive than buying a ready-made jacket that you like. You can choose from a wide range of fabrics in different colours, interesting fabrics that are not available off-the-shelf, or fabrics with a particular look and texture. The Brunello Cucinelli concept is based on colours found in nature, which is why the fabrics are characterised by basic colours and nice, slightly dull colours.
Finished jacket.
Two months after the order, the finished jacket arrives at the Ginza shop from Italy. The final sizing is done at this stage, but when the jacket is actually worn, the workmanship is impeccable and there is nothing to fix. One point of preference is whether to shorten the sleeve length a little, but the linen-cotton fabric wrinkles as it is worn and the sleeve length rises, so we decide to try it on as it is, based on the advice that it is better to assess at that stage and decide how to stuff the sleeves.
At the final fitting, the person in charge and two MTM staff members were present and explained the cleanliness of the line from the shoulder to the chest area, the length of the garment, the cleanness of the line from the shoulder to the back, and the use of hand stitching, which is often referred to, and showed us various differences between ready-to-wear and MTM products.
The volume around the chest and the shorter length are just right and do not feel uncomfortable when worn over jeans.
Also, the photos of the jacket worn for this shoot show that the styling is beautiful.
One of the criteria for evaluating a good or bad jacket is how beautiful the silhouette is from the shoulders to the waist when viewed from behind, and the jacket we had made this time has a very clean line.
I wore it to the beach for a photo shoot that day, and it was comfortable on the beach, easy to move around in so you don’t really feel like you’re wearing a jacket, and although it’s linen, it has a very soft feel to it.
I often wear it with jeans, so I can enjoy wearing it rough, but it has a perfect balance that doesn’t fall apart too much even when worn rough.
Wearing example
riginally, I often wear casual parkas, knitwear, military or outdoor outerwear casually over jeans in spring and summer, but this tailored jacket can be worn with that feeling and is a very good tailored jacket that looks more solid than it feels. There are softer, more comfortable jackets available nowadays, but I think it’s hard to find a jacket that looks so good and is at this level.
The material is linen, cotton and silk, mostly linen and cotton, so it wrinkles easily, but in my case I wear it with jeans, so it’s also very attractive because I can wear it rough and loose, including the wrinkled feeling.
I would like to wear this jacket more and more, to make it truly fit my body and develop it into something I can wear for a long time.
Brunello Cucinelli clothes tend to be expensive because they are made from the best materials by the best craftsmen, but they create something that suits the customer and offer a proposal that can be enjoyed for a long time, so although it is difficult to buy clothes all year round, I would definitely enjoy buying clothes here if I have the chance.
Details.
- Step-back three-button closure Patch slit pocket at chest, ticket pocket and patch pocket.
- Four button cuffs, usable buttonholes Cupro semi-lined.
- Two buttoned inside pockets, pen pocket Drop 7 Side vents at rear.
- 59% linen, 40% cotton, 1% silk.
Combination.
- Jacket: Brunello Cucinelli size 46.
- T-shirt-style henley neck knit : TOM FORD size 46
- Denim : Levi’s 501XX 54Model, waist 30inch : length 32inch
- Boots : White’s.
- Hat : Brunello Cucinelli
- Watch : Rolex GMT-Master 1675 (1964)
- Sunglasses : TOM FORD
Conclusion.
I was not really interested in tailored jackets as I mainly wear jeans, but the tailored jacket I ordered from Brunello Cucinelli this time fits me better than I expected and has broadened my fashion rules. This has also affected my shoes, and although I never used to wear loafers with jeans, I also bought a pair of suede loafers from Brunello Cucinelli, and I want to enjoy wearing loafers with jacket styles as well as boots and sneakers.
Ordering from MTM has changed the way I think about choosing clothes in the future, from the feeling of fitting myself to ready-made clothes to ordering a tailored jacket that suits me. It was an experience that changed the way I think about choosing clothes in the future.
I hope this article will help those who want to enjoy casual jackets.
The actual wearing of the Cavallo is summarised in a separate article.
Cavallo x Levi’s 502
Shop.
My Brunello Cucinelli products are purchased at the Brunello Cucinelli Ginza shop.
As you can see in Field Jacket article, it is the best shop not only for the products and the shop, but also for the people involved, so why not pay a visit! ? Why not visit once?
I made a jacket at MTM this time, and the shop manages the surplus fabric and the same buttons, and keeps them in a safe place. They also introduce us to a good dry-cleaning shop and we can ask for dry-cleaning through the shop on request.
This brand is recommended for those who want to enjoy really good products for a long time with care.
