A-2 REAL McCOY’S
For those aged 50 and above, when asked to picture vintage leather items, the A-2 flight jacket worn by the US Air Force during the Second World War likely springs to mind first. Even those uninterested in vintage clothing and unfamiliar with the name “A-2” will recognise the silhouette of leather jackets inspired by this design – the collar, shoulder epaulettes, and flap pockets on both sides – as a familiar sight.
Since 2010, military-style leather jackets have become less common, overshadowed by the popularity of biker jackets. However, you’ll still frequently encounter a wide variety of designs: from jackets mimicking the motif, to reproductions, and even meticulously authentic recreations of the original specifications.
To briefly explain the A-2 flight jacket, it was formally adopted by the US Army Air Corps in 1931 as a summer-season flight jacket. You might have a vague image of it from Steve McQueen wearing one in the film The Great Escape. Alongside the G-1 jacket, which similarly features a fur-lined collar, and the B-3, designed for extreme cold, it stands as one of the quintessential military-style leather items.
As they were originally issued as genuine military wear, vintage examples circulating today are seldom plain. You’ll frequently encounter pieces adorned with rank insignia, patches, or back paintings (notably the famous blood chit). While highly appealing as vintage garments, they present a challenge to style for everyday wear. Their distinctive character makes them difficult to incorporate into contemporary fashion, likely appealing only to enthusiasts.
Introduction.
I don’t often have occasion to wear a leather jacket (nowadays called a leather jacket), but occasionally I feel like putting one on. For those times, the A-2 flight jacket I’m introducing today is something I can easily pick up and throw on.
The A-2 flight jacket I own is the REAL McCOY’S A-2 flight jacket. They have thoroughly researched the authentic A-2, enhancing the quality of the leather material, stitching, and rib detailing, whilst incorporating various refinements to ensure it remains comfortable to wear today. It’s an exceptionally fine piece that elevates the quality without compromising the original style and form of the A-2, which is why I wish to introduce it here.
Whilst I mention it being easy to wear, in its new state, the horse leather is inherently very stiff and cannot be described as comfortable. The leather won’t soften until it’s been worn in sufficiently. It requires undergoing the ritual of new leather jackets – simply wearing it to mould to your body – before it becomes comfortable for regular wear. It’s an item where you can enjoy this process too.
It doesn’t offer the same comfort as the Brunello Cucinelli piece featured in a previous article, but it embodies the fascination of leather goods: once it moulds to your body, it becomes surprisingly comfortable. While it lacks the lightness and softness of certain fabrics, there’s a distinct pleasure in wearing something that feels uniquely suited to you.
The difficulty of wearing a leather jacket stylishly
Whilst chatting with a mate about leather jackets, we got onto the topic of how military-style leather jackets were fairly common to wear, but once you hit your forties and your figure starts to go, wearing one just makes you look like an old bloke in a leather jacket, so you gradually stop wearing it.
I can sort of see what he means. A junior colleague of mine adores his G-1 jacket. When I saw him recently, he was wearing it, but he no longer had the slim build of his youth. The jeans he paired it with didn’t quite fit his frame, and even his beloved JM Weston golf shoes looked a bit clumsy somehow. Apologies to my junior colleague, but he’d become the very embodiment of that “middle-aged bloke’s leather jacket” we’d discussed. He loves his G-1 and wears it often, but as he’s aged, it’s started to look a bit… well, middle-aged. He asked me if there was a way to wear it better.
Given this situation, I thought I might try wearing a military-style leather jacket again after a long time. So, I declared to the friend and junior colleague who’d brought up the topic that I wouldn’t become a “middle-aged bloke’s leather jacket”. Having made that declaration, I started thinking about what to wear. The G-1 and B-3 with their fur lining are warm, but the silhouette tends to puff out, making me worry I’d end up looking like an old man in a leather jacket too. An A-2, however, has a shorter length and doesn’t puff out as much around the chest, so I reckon the silhouette would look cleaner. That’s why the A-2 became a candidate.
A-2 REAL McCOY’S
I ponder what kind of A-2 to wear. Personally, I adore vintage clothing and hold a special respect for original items. Fake a had an original A-2, and when I saw it, it featured what you might call blood-chit painting. The vintage item’s value is incredibly high, but when asked if it would suit me? Well, it’s a bit iffy (I reckon I could pull it off reasonably well, but when I think about when and where I’d actually wear it, it gets knocked off the list. The piece itself is superb, so I suppose it might work for someone in the fashion industry involved with vintage, who’s regularly seen around the Harajuku area).
Leaving Fake a and walking along Meiji-dori towards Shibuya, you’ll find REAL McCOY’S. I recall REAL McCOY’S being in Daikanyama nearly 25 years ago; I remember popping in once to look at their chinos. I had the impression they were quite active in reproducing vintage pieces, and I vaguely remembered them doing A-2 jackets, so I decided to pop in.
I don’t recall the details of the REAL McCOY’S shop I visited 25 years ago, but it somehow had an American shop-like atmosphere. My past memories and the current shop’s ambience synced up, evoking a strangely nostalgic feeling.
They also stock A-2 jackets, ranging from basic styles to special items like those dyed with persimmon tannin in a slightly lighter brown. Beyond the A-2, there are many other highly intriguing items like Buco’s rider jackets and thermal T-shirts. I’ll be taking a while to look at various items.
I select a basic A-2 for fitting. The staff suggest sizes 40 or 38 might suit me best, advising that 40 would be ideal for layering in the depths of winter, while 38 would be better for avoiding bulkiness if worn without heavy layers. Here, I learn about the A-2’s origins for the first time – that it was the summer uniform of the US Army Air Corps. I’m also told this particular motif is from an early model.
Given my build, the 38 would look sleeker, so I opted for that size. To complement the A-2, I also purchased Bearhead work boots and a thermal T-shirt to wear underneath.
REAL McCOY’S has long specialised in vintage and military wear, with a passion for research, so their A-2 jackets are developed with meticulous attention to detail. The quality of their A-2s is, of course, excellent. As the staff mentioned, they’ve even reproduced the materials to minimise issues like moth damage to the ribbing, which is common in vintage A-2s. They also informed me that, while the probability is low, they offer repairs should moth damage occur.
Size selection and combination are key
I purchased an A-2 jacket from REAL McCOY’S. As I’m fond of jeans, I pair the A-2 with 501XX or 101Z jeans, along with the work boots I bought alongside the jacket, wearing a thermal T-shirt underneath. Even with this style, I don’t end up looking like the aforementioned middle-aged gentleman in a leather jacket. Let me consider why this is.
The primary reason a leather jacket ends up looking like an old man’s, I believe, lies in the sizing and silhouette of the items worn with it. The A-2 fits me perfectly in shoulder width, body width, and overall length, creating a clean silhouette. The 501XX jeans I pair it with are also a perfect fit; the waist is 30 inches and the length is 32 inches, slightly longer, but I can wear them without rolling the hem when paired with work boots that have a heel. The 101Z is similar; the waist is 30 inches and the length is 33 inches, but I can wear it without turning up the hem.
This time it’s the A-2, but the key points to avoid making a military-style leather jacket look like an “uncle’s leather jacket” are:
- Pay attention to the sizing of both the A-2 and the bottoms you pair it with
- Sizing: Choose items that fit your body as closely as possible to refine the overall silhouette.
- Opt for slightly longer bottoms and shoes with heels to maximise the length effect.
- Ideally, pair with boots for balanced proportions; dark brown complements the A-2 jacket well.
- Inner layers must not protrude from the A-2 (as the jacket is fitted, longer inner layers disrupt the balance).
The junior’s G-1 jacket looked like an old man’s leather jacket because the straight-leg jeans had an awkward length, revealing a bit of sock. The slightly oversized fit and subtle bulk also contributed. This could be resolved by choosing jeans that fit properly and are slightly longer. The jeans’ awkward length ruins the effect of the shoes.
Furthermore, as the golf shirt is black, a dark brown G-1 would pair better with dark brown shoes for a more cohesive look. Regarding the crucial G-1 styling, fastening the zip all the way up also contributes to the dowdy appearance. It became clear that simply avoiding this – perhaps wearing a scarf or stole instead when cold – prevents it from looking like an old man’s leather jacket.
When I wore my A-2 and subtly pointed out corrections to my junior’s style, he understood. Having shopped at Barneys in his youth, he has a reasonably high fashion sense and promptly adjusted his styling to avoid the “uncle” leather jacket look.
The difficulty of wearing A-2 well
For the past few years, I’ve mainly worn jeans and hardly any other trousers, so this year I’m aiming to incorporate more non-denim options. I’m actively wearing work trousers featured in a separate article, as well as the five-pocket cotton trousers mentioned in a previous post.
The five-pocket cotton trousers are by Visvim. They feature a slim silhouette rather than the brand’s signature oversized look, and while the rise isn’t quite low-rise, it’s not the deep rise seen in many contemporary trousers. Visvim is a remarkable maison; their deep understanding of vintage clothing and fashion history makes their manufacturing process fascinating, incorporating traditional craft techniques and demonstrating strong social consciousness.
As these Visvim five-pocket cotton trousers have a slimmer silhouette than the 501XX or 101 and are a light beige colour, I pair them with an A-2 jacket.
The A-2 is a genuine military item, originally made for the armed forces, and is quite a rugged, masculine piece. Pairing this rugged, masculine item with military trousers looks cool, but soldiers have different physiques, and the average Japanese person won’t achieve the same look by imitating them.
For the average Japanese build, a well-fitting straight-leg jean or slim-fit chino will provide a better, more balanced look.
The challenge with the A-2 lies not in being fashionable or not, but in the inherent strength of its character (the image, not the item itself). Wearing an A-2 makes you become the person wearing the A-2. This might be difficult to articulate clearly, but perhaps it’s easier to understand by saying the A-2 takes precedence over the person wearing it.
Even when wearing the A-2, a military item with such history and excellence, it requires a certain level of style sense to ensure you don’t become the A-2 wearing person, or an old man’s leather jacket.
It has been three years since I purchased REAL McCOY’S A-2 jacket, and while I am writing this article based on my experience at that time, if I were to wear the A-2 this year, I would pair it with bottoms other than jeans, enjoying the A-2 in a manner similar to the examples shown.
A-2 Style Guide
This year, I’m considering wearing my iconic reissued leather items, such as the A-2, more often than usual. As I’m approaching my sixtieth birthday, I’m thinking of wearing them in a slightly more mature style. Within that, I find it interesting to choose footwear that diverges from the conventional theory. In the outfit example, I’ve paired Brunello Cucinelli suede penny loafers with John Lobb’s brown Barros. (The reason is simple: I forgot my boots or trainers for the shoot, so I wore the shoes I had to hand – and surprisingly, they worked well… but discovering this happy accident was fortunate.)
Pairing them with Brunello Cucinelli’s suede penny loafers creates a look reminiscent of items exhibited at Pitti, embodying contemporary Italian fashion.
Interestingly, pairing them with John Lobb’s U-tip Barros brings out the BCBG-esque elements inherent in the Barros’ historical image. Compared to the combination with the contemporary Italian-style suede loafers, this pairing creates a more grounded, formal atmosphere, enhancing the elegance – something I only realised after seeing the photos post-shoot.
My John Lobb Barros were purchased in 2000, making them 25 years old. Yet, thanks to their robust construction and design, they remain in excellent condition. This truly demonstrates that a good pair of shoes can last a lifetime.
It’s a simple style: just an A-2 jacket, matching trousers, a knit cap, and a stole. However, by pairing it with items that temper the A-2’s character, the jacket’s strong presence doesn’t dominate. This allows you to pull off the look without becoming the stereotypical “A-2 jacket wearer” I mentioned earlier.
The significance of wearing a reissued A-2
If you wish to wear refined leather items, another option is to choose motif pieces from today’s top maisons or Italian manufacturers exhibiting at Pitti. This style features a modernised original silhouette, designed to flatter anyone who wears it.
While the designs are similar, the styling has been updated for contemporary wear, eliminating the stiff, difficult-to-wear quality of original horsehide. Most use calf or lamb leather, meaning they are soft and comfortable from the outset.
However, the distinctive character and atmosphere of the original items are somewhat diminished, so I believe the choice should depend on personal preference and the occasion for wearing them.
In my personal opinion, the reissued A-2, which is quite close to the authentic version, is in a sense akin to the current Levi’s 501 – one of the prototypes for the leather jackets now flooding the market. This shares a commonality with Levi’s 501 jeans: even amidst a sea of excellent jeans, the universal appeal of the 501 not only remains unchanged but often appears to shine even brighter.
This goes beyond mere fashion or style; it touches on a deeper sensibility. Wearing timeless, basic items effortlessly and stylishly is one choice, as is wearing trendy, fashionable clothes stylishly. The answer is simply to enjoy the style that suits you best.
The former represents a kind of classic style; while it may experience some fluctuations in popularity, if asked which would likely still hold up ten years from now, I believe it would be the former style, built on timeless elements. The latter allows one to express a more contemporary edge, so if that’s the style one seeks, then choosing the latter is perfectly valid.
I personally favour the former, yet when I wear pieces like Brunello Cucinelli or Dior (as seen in other articles), I feel the underlying power of fashionable clothing that follows trends. (The items themselves are basic pieces I prefer, avoiding overly trendy elements, but the styling is contemporary).
Below are a few photos showing how it can be worn. I’m afraid I’m no model, so they may not be very helpful, but I hope they give you a sense of the style.
Wearing example.
My intention was to introduce the A-2, but it has turned into a theme about how to wear military-style leather items. Whether it’s the A-2, G-1, or B-3, each has its own distinct characteristics and is a highly masculine piece – something men, myself included, tend to admire. Their strong individuality and the sheer number of imitations mean they can be surprisingly difficult to pull off.
Though I didn’t try it this time, pairing slim-fit chinos without a centre crease with a non-oversized sweatshirt, layering an A-2 jacket over it, and finishing with sneakers like Converse can be quite enjoyable. This style evokes the look of Steve McQueen in The Great Escape. Admittedly a bit of a cheat, but pairing this sweatshirt with a cashmere knit imitating the design of Brunello Cucinelli or Loro Piana sweatshirts, and combining it with casual yet refined leather shoes like the John Lobb Barros worn this time, creates a sophisticated, high-quality look. I own a Brunello Cucinelli-style cashmere knit sweatshirt and would like to photograph it when the opportunity arises.
Details.
- Leather: Horsehide / Tannin-tanned, pigment finish
- Lining: Cotton broadcloth
- Front fastener: 40s bell-shaped, nickel-plated
- Ribbing: Wool rib
- Sewing thread: Cotton thread
Combinations.
- Leather jacket: REAL McCOY’S
- Western shirt: Brunello Cucinelli
- Cashmere stole: Brunello Cucinelli
- Five-pocket cotton trousers: Visvim
- Hat (grey): LEUCHTFEUE
- Watch: Rolex Day Date (1803 1969)
- Sunglasses: Oakley
- Belt: Brunello Cucinelli
- Shoes: Brunello Cucinelli Suede Penny Loafers
- Shoes: John Lobb Barros 2998 Last
Conclusion.
Originally, I purchased this A-2 jacket after a friend asked for advice on styling military leather. It reaffirmed what a versatile and fascinating piece it is. While it’s essentially an item you can wear without much fuss, its widespread popularity and inherent image mean that attempting a stylish or sophisticated look suddenly makes it much trickier to pull off.
For younger wearers, it’s an item that looks cool simply by wearing it as you please. However, for those wearing it later in life, it becomes an item that demands a bit of thought. Not just the A-2, but leather goods in general have a naturally rugged appearance. Their look and texture differ significantly from cotton or wool, and their strong character meant I didn’t wear them frequently either. A key discovery, however, was that simply changing the trousers slightly creates a much more cohesive look and makes it surprisingly easy to wear.
Being a reissue of the original, the horsehide’s stiffness takes time to break in. I’ve patiently worn mine until the leather moulded to my form, but those in a hurry can expedite the process by wearing it constantly at home. For maintenance, simply apply Mustang Oil – renowned for horsehide – by hand all over, leave it briefly, then wipe it off.
It requires more care than standard outerwear and isn’t as comfortable as other jackets, but once you appreciate the characteristic leather quality of moulding to your body, you develop a real affection for it.
Men often harbour a desire to look cool in a rugged leather jacket, don’t they? The A-2 is a genuine military item, officially issued by the US Army, and inherently possesses more than enough rugged coolness. Wearing it while enjoying the challenge of controlling that image is surely the way to make the most of an A-2.
Shop
The A-2 flight jacket featured here was purchased from REAL McCOY’S Tokyo. REAL McCOY’S is renowned for reproducing military items and reviving Buco’s iconic rider jackets. Their meticulous research results in reproductions of such exceptional quality that they surpass the originals.
While their focus is on American military reproductions, they also offer workwear and denim. They reproduce items that could be considered quintessential vintage American casual wear, with a common thread being that they take the most stylish era as their motif. They pay meticulous attention to detail, incorporating modern adjustments while carefully preserving the original atmosphere.
Whatever you choose, the quality is exceptionally high. For fans of Americana or military style, it’s the ultimate shop, allowing you to wear vintage-inspired items in new condition – pieces that are often difficult to find as originals. They offer not just outerwear, but also T-shirts, shirts, boots, shoes, and denim. Every item in the shop is crafted with meticulous attention to detail, so you can look sharp wearing a full REAL McCOY’S outfit.
Given the highly niche nature of the items, the staff possess extensive knowledge, making their insights into the history and characteristics of original pieces particularly valuable.
Beyond the A-2 flight jacket featured here, I also own a Buco J-100 and work boots. My collection of accessories ranges from thermal T-shirts in comfortable, lightweight fabrics to heavier-weight thermals that closely replicate authentic materials.
While I mainly purchase leather items, their reissued cotton outerwear like the N1 is also superb, and I’d love to wear it if the opportunity arises. Though the focus is on military and workwear, giving a casual yet distinctive image, the excellent material selection and craftsmanship mean it’s a fantastic shop offering pieces you can enjoy for years to come.
“Real McCoy’s” Global shipping is not supported. Come to the shop when you come to Japan.
