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  • Dior’s take on traditional style

    Dior’s take on traditional style

    This past winter, after a younger colleague said something like, “It would be wonderful to wear Dior at sixty,” I picked up a few Dior pieces and have been enjoying a register of winter dressing that’s never quite been part of my usual style.

    [ The Dior Cashmere Peacoat piece ]

    My image of the brands that drive the Paris collections — Dior among them — had long been that their design was excellent, but their material choices and tailoring fell short of what one finds in serious sartorie or in luxury houses that put materials first.

    The cashmere peacoat I bought this winter overturned that image entirely. Its cloth and its tailoring hold their own against any sartoria or so-called luxury house.

    I’ve always leaned toward American casual, and as casual wear I valued practicality over the rigor of materials and construction. The refinement and quiet authority that come from real fabric and real tailoring weren’t things I particularly looked for. But — as I’ve written in other pieces — getting older has begun to shift the way I think.

    [ The Formosa Cashmere Jacket piece ]

    [ The Brunello Cucinelli Corduroy Jacket piece ]

    A Traditional Lineup

    Dior, which I had always taken as the forward edge of mode (in the sense of contemporary fashion), turned out to carry pieces of genuine quality — pieces that could serve as enduring standards. The discovery itself has been quietly impressive.

    I had thought of Dior’s clothes as something younger generations enjoy. To find pieces I could wear at my own age — middle-aged, on the older side — opened up a brand I’d not had much interest in before. It now reads as a brand worth looking at.

    It was that shift of mind that led me to buy what Dior is offering this season — an oxford-cloth button-down shirt, and a slim, flat-front pair of chinos.

    Beige chinos with a sky-blue button-down — the central composition of American Trad — is rebuilt here through Dior’s own lens. As a top maison whose center of gravity sits in mode, there’s an element of trend-handling in the way Dior treats Ametora, but the result is modern and clean, well-made and quietly refined: the kind of universal piece that’s easy to wear.

    Dior’s traditional style

    1. The Button-Down Shirt

    Dior Button-Down Shirt

    A button-down shirt made up in oxford cloth. The smaller collar and trim body are unmistakably Dior, but the quality of the cloth and the care of the stitching hold their own against shirt specialists like FRAY.

    2. A Quiet Mark

    Dior Button-Down Shirt — Embroidery

    There’s a quiet Dior embroidery on the left side. The motif feels — to my eye — like it’s nodding to the made-to-order shirts at Brooks Brothers.

    3. The Chinos

    Dior Chinos

    Slim, flat-front chinos without a pressed crease. Long a staple beyond Dior, this kind of trouser had quietly disappeared from the market in recent years. From this spring or so, I’ve started seeing them again at a handful of brands. A staple, yes — but here, cut with the slightly removed stylishness that Paris mode tends toward, and with the straight, linear construction that has carried through Dior since Hedi Slimane. The Dior of these chinos still recognizably belongs to that line.

    Dior’s Chinos and Button-Down Shirt

    Ametora (American Trad)

    In my twenties, I was drawn to what’s known in Japan as Ametora (American Traditional) — chinos paired with button-downs or denim shirts. I wore a lot of clothes from a brand called TUBE back then.

    From there I gravitated to Brooks Brothers and Ralph Lauren. Money was tight in my twenties and the number of pieces I could afford was limited, but I treated the few I had as cherished items and wore them carefully.

    Looking back, that was the seed of how I dress now — Ralph Lauren chinos with a heather-gray Champion Reverse Weave on top, Stan Smiths or Superstars on my feet.

    For shirts, I’d wear a Brooks Brothers button-down straight off the wash, or a Ralph Lauren denim shirt left open at the front over a Hanes tee. That was the silhouette of my style in those years.

    The first place I ever bought Ralph Lauren chinos was Bloomingdale’s in New York. I was visiting on a trip. The staff treated me — a Japanese tourist — with real kindness, and that was what tipped me into buying.

    I also stopped into Barneys’ flagship, though the prices were well beyond what I could afford then. The staff there were kind too, and I came away with a pair of Oliver Peoples sunglasses.

    I have a tendency to buy when I encounter a salesperson’s enthusiasm and genuine attention (this hasn’t changed). The man at Bloomingdale’s took his time, looked carefully for what would suit me, and I bought those Ralph Lauren chinos out of how earnest and warm he was. That single pair of Ralph Lauren chinos has, in its own quiet way, shaped how I’ve dressed in the years since.

    It was a music trip — that’s why I was in New York. I caught Johnny Griffin at the Village Vanguard, Leslie West at the Bottom Line, and the Anthrax / Public Enemy collaboration at the Ritz. The unexpected bonus was stopping by CBGB to pick up a hat I’d been asked to bring back as a souvenir, and finding Joey Ramone there for an event meeting. Seeing him moved me. That’s the trip I remember.

    Dior’s Reading of American Trad

    The oxford button-down and chinos that Dior is offering — the pieces I’m covering here — feel to me as though they have one eye on American Trad (Ralph Lauren and Brooks Brothers in the 1990s, that kind of register).

    From around last year, Tom Ford and Brunello Cucinelli have been showing suits and jackets whose silhouettes seem to look back to late-1980s and early-1990s Armani.

    There’s no direct connection between Dior’s reading of American Trad and Brunello Cucinelli’s reading of Armani, of course. But viewed in terms of period feeling, the Armani suit and American Trad — though running on different trend cycles in real time — both belonged to the late-1980s through 1990s mood, and I sense that several brands are now drawing on that era’s atmosphere.

    Trends tend to circle back over time, and I get the feeling that what was current from the late 1980s into the 1990s is now entering its return cycle.

    American Trad is a style I’ve always liked, but it’s been a long while since I’ve actually worn it, and now it feels fresh again.

    The Button-Down Shirt

    What caught my eye was the oxford-cloth button-down. Compared to Dior’s traditional formal shirts — cotton poplin, designed to live under a suit or jacket — this one keeps the slim cut that’s identifiably Dior, but uses a substantial, well-bodied oxford cloth, runs slightly shorter in the body, and is built on the premise of being worn untucked.

    I owned and wore a few Dior shirts from the Hedi Slimane era. The button-down on offer this season still carries forward several elements of that iconic period — the small collar shape, the trim armhole.

    Dior shirts carry their mode sensibility, and even tossed on over a pair of jeans, they bring a distinct atmosphere with them — though I’d say they sit more naturally with Dior’s slim denim than with a standard 501.

    When I wear a button-down with denim, I usually leave it unironed and wear it straight from the wash; with chinos, I press it. The Dior oxford works differently — it leaves room for a more relaxed American Trad register too.

    What surprised me about wearing this shirt was that — for all that the silhouette is Dior mode — there’s a hand-made quality to the construction, and the cloth choice gives it the air of something made up at an Italian camiceria.

    The motif is the Brooks Brothers button-down, but the shirt itself isn’t an American industrial product. It carries the texture of an Italian tailored shirt, and that single garment ends up showing several different faces depending on how you wear it.

    The Chinos

    What caught my eye, alongside the oxford shirt, was the slim, flat-front, uncreased chinos. The fabric is a lighter cotton you tend to see in spring and summer collections — easy to wear, useful in daily rotation.

    The slim chino with a pronounced taper, of the sort that Italian brands like PT Torino or Incotex offer, is easy enough to find. But the older American style — slim without a heavy taper — seems to have lacked a market in recent years, and I’d been unable to find a pair I wanted to wear, even when I went looking.

    A pair of Visvim German-corduroy trousers I bought this winter turned out to be unexpectedly fine, so I broadened my search across brands, and in the Spring/Summer collection by Jonathan Anderson — who took over as Dior’s new designer this season — I found these slim chinos. They caught my interest, and once I tried them on, the cleanness of the line was exactly what I’d had in mind. I bought them.

    The motif is the American chino, but cut to Dior’s signature slim line with a straight, almost geometric construction. The result is trousers that present the leg cleanly and read as an excellent piece of styling.

    The combination above — button-down with chinos — is a staple American Trad pairing that I’ve always liked and that I find myself wanting to return to periodically. With Dior’s particular cleanness layered on top, it becomes a clean composition that holds several different registers at once.

    Pages: 1 2

  • Formosa Cashmere Jacket

    Formosa Cashmere Jacket

    This season, alongside the casual pieces I usually reach for, I’ve found myself wearing suits and jackets that hadn’t seen daylight in some time. The Formosa cashmere jacket I’m introducing here pairs beautifully with my regular Levi’s 501XX and other denim, and because it’s tailored from cashmere, it earns its place in heavy rotation through the depths of winter.

    Beyond the jacket itself, I’ve also written through what I take to be the deeper cultural side of Italian sartoria — a strictly personal reading. Working that out, in turn, has deepened my own understanding of what makes the Formosa jacket so quietly remarkable.

    This piece runs long, so I’ve broken it across six pages.

    Formosa

    Formosa is not a fashion brand but a sarto — a Naples tailoring house. Its full name is Sartoria Formosa, and the workshop sits in the Chiaia district of Naples.

    It is an old house. Mario Formosa founded the atelier in 1965, and he became one of the legendary masters who carried Naples tailoring through its “golden age.” Trained under Roberto Combattente, he stands in the legitimate line of succession of the Neapolitan style.

    With Mario’s passing, his son Gennaro Formosa now carries the house forward in his father’s name. The atelier was historically bespoke-only, though it has begun offering ready-to-wear in modest quantities.

    What’s worth noting is that even the ready-to-wear isn’t farmed out to an external factory — it is made in-house by Formosa’s own tailors, which means the off-the-peg pieces carry essentially bespoke-grade build quality. There is no Japanese distribution, but the line shows up at high-end North American department stores.

    The Neapolitan suit is, in a sense, a philosophy born of Naples itself — lightness and softness, freedom rather than formality. Manica camicia (the shirt-sleeve construction), thin canvas, and a generous use of hand-stitching are its hallmarks. The warmth that only human hands can give a garment, and the rounded silhouette that follows the body in three dimensions — neither of which a sewing machine can replicate — soften the British-derived austerity of the suit and leave behind something refined, light, and easy to wear.

    To this inherited Neapolitan craft and philosophy, Formosa adds its own techniques and judgment, producing a take on the Neapolitan style that feels easier to wear and more contemporary in everyday life.

    The house places real emphasis on cultural transmission, and the workshop is notable for the number of young, promising tailors working in it.

    [ Formosa Official website ]

    Tailoring Hallmarks

    Formosa carries the traditional Neapolitan techniques and thinking forward, but compared to other Neapolitan sartorie, it has a distinctive balance — a kind of restraint, a refusal to over-construct the form.

    Like the rest of Naples, it works with minimal canvas and an exceptionally soft hand. What it does particularly well is build dimensional volume from the chest up through the shoulder — without forcing the body’s line through construction or stiffening, it arrives at a silhouette that fits the body cleanly, but no more than is needed.

    This technical command produces a cleaner line than most Neapolitan tailoring, and Formosa’s jackets and suits are accordingly described as marrying the Neapolitan tradition with a contemporary modernity.

    Because Formosa doesn’t lean on cloth weight to hold a jacket’s form, the house can work freely with light and soft fabrics that other tailors tend to avoid. The result is a Formosa hallmark — an excellent silhouette that nevertheless carries softness, an unusual lightness, an unforced ease in the wearing.

    Not everything is built from light, soft cloth — at the customer’s request, Formosa will of course produce heavier, more structured suits with longer service in mind. But the customers who walk in tend to be there for the soft and the light.

    The house’s cloth library — including vintage fabrics — is among the most extensive in Naples, and Formosa takes the matching of customer to cloth as a serious matter.

    To my mind, Formosa is the workshop that has carried the legitimate Neapolitan techniques forward and, with its own native deftness and sense of balance, evolved the traditional style into something genuinely modern.

    A Light, Soft Cashmere

    Formosa Cashmere Jacket

    When a breeze catches it, you can see — and feel — how light and soft the cashmere truly is.

    The Neapolitan Curve from Shoulder to Chest

    Formosa Cashmere Jacket — Shoulder and Chest Line

    The signatures of the Neapolitan tradition are all in place — the high gorge, wide lapel, generous armhole, and a clearly built line running from shoulder to chest. What is most Formosa here is the choice not to overstate the body’s fit, and to let the overall balance carry the look. The result is decidedly modern.

    A Measured, Three-Dimensional Back

    Formosa Cashmere Jacket — Back Silhouette

    The line that runs from the shoulder, down through the side suppression at the waist, then opens out toward the hip is shaped without being overworked. With the slightly longer length and the deep side vents, the back composes itself into a clean, uncluttered silhouette.

    A High Gorge and an Open Lapel

    Formosa Cashmere Jacket — High Gorge and Open Lapel

    One of Formosa’s signatures is the slightly stronger curve cut into the lapel. Worn, that curve allows the lapel to fall open and lets the chest read as more powerful. It’s harder to see in photographs, but on the hanger that same curve causes the lapel to close inward rather than splay open — a small, deliberate detail.

    The M.F. — Mario Formosa Label

    Formosa Cashmere Jacket — M.F. for Mario Formosa

    The label carries M.F. — the initials of Formosa’s founder, Mario Formosa.

    What I’m covering here, then, is a Formosa cashmere jacket — modern and stylish in line, made from a vintage cashmere of measured weight, built by serious tailoring craft, and altogether light and easy on the body.

    Pages: 1 2 3 4 5 6

  • Visvim FLUXSUS 01 SLIM G.CORDS

    Visvim FLUXSUS 01 SLIM G.CORDS

    This winter, I have found myself frequently opting for slim-fit trousers, starting with a pair of black slim-fit denim from Dior. While my usual winter staples would typically be the Levi’s 501 or Lee 101, I have recently awakened to the allure of the refined, slim silhouette. This has allowed me to enjoy winter styling in a way that feels distinct from my previous aesthetics. Moving away from the ubiquity of indigo denim, I have been increasingly incorporating beige tones into my wardrobe.

    Visvim

    Among these choices, the pair I have likely worn the most is the Visvim FLUXSUS 01 SLIM G.CORDS, crafted from rugged German Cord fabric. Although categorized as beige, the stiff, dense texture of the German Cord gives it a subtle grayish undertone, resulting in a cooler, more sophisticated hue than typical beige. Despite being a slim-fit model, the silhouette leans toward a narrow straight cut, making it exceptionally versatile and indispensable for various pairings.

    Visvim develops its collections by drawing inspiration from a broad spectrum of traditional American attire, extending beyond just vintage clothing. Their craftsmanship is deeply intentional, incorporating elements such as Native American heritage, Japanese traditional crafts, and time-honored manufacturing techniques from around the globe that deserve to be preserved for the future.

    Allow me to introduce the FLUXSUS 01 SLIM G.CORDS—a garment that perfectly embodies Visvim’s impeccable taste and uncompromising dedication to detail.

    1.deerskin leather patch

    Visvim FLUXSUS 01 SLIM G.CORDS
    The deerskin leather patch of the Visvim FLUXSUS 01 SLIM G.CORDS.

    The body is crafted from a stiff, high-density German Cord fabric, providing a rugged structure that contrasts beautifully with the remarkably soft deerskin leather patch.

    2.German Cord fabric.

    Visvim FLUXSUS 01 SLIM G.CORDS
    Detailed texture of the Visvim German Cord fabric.

    The fine vertical ribbing of the high-density German Cord creates a rich, tactile texture.

    3.Front view

    Visvim FLUXSUS 01 SLIM G.CORDS
    Front view of the FLUXSUS 01 SLIM G.CORDS.

    Despite the slim silhouette, the balance of the waist, rise, thigh width, and leg opening is masterful. Upon wearing them, they offer a surprising level of comfort that belies their sharp, narrow appearance.

    4.Rear view

    Visvim FLUXSUS 01 SLIM G.CORDS
    Rear view highlighting the distinct silhouette.

    The rear pockets of the FLUXSUS 01 SLIM G.CORDS are positioned lower than usual. This design ensures the pockets remain accessible even when wearing a jacket, while also creating an exceptionally clean rear silhouette. It’s a motif inspired by vintage workwear—a design philosophy shared by brands like Tender Co.

    Introduction.

    Visvim

    My initial perception of Visvim was that of a footwear-focused brand, known for their meticulously handcrafted shoes. However, that changed one day while strolling through Nakameguro with my wife. We came across an intriguing shop housed in a beautifully renovated kominka (traditional Japanese house), which turned out to be the “Visvim General Store.” Stepping inside, I found an impeccably curated collection of apparel and footwear, all reflecting an extraordinary level of dedication to detail.

    Given my prior image of the brand, I first looked at their sneakers and boots. I was particularly drawn to a pair of sneakers inspired by the Converse All-Star and some work boots crafted from fine suede. As I explored the apparel, I noticed each piece possessed a unique texture while drawing inspiration from vintage garments. Speaking with the staff, I learned that they employ fascinating materials and dyeing techniques rarely seen elsewhere—such as natural Hon-Aizome (indigo) dyeing for denim, Mud Dyeing for jackets, and uniquely developed linen-wool blends.

    It became clear that their manufacturing process is deeply rooted in a sense of handcraft and artisanal skill, which made every item on display appear incredibly alluring. From their collection, I eventually chose a pair of sneakers, boots, a denim shirt, jeans, and these slim German Cord trousers. Visvim’s items are conceived from a truly unique perspective on craftsmanship; since my purchase, they have become staples in my wardrobe for which I have a deep affection. I look forward to introducing their other exceptional pieces in future articles.

    FLUXSUS 01 SLIM G.CORDS

    This year, I have been leaning toward slimmer trousers compared to my traditional straight-cut denim. Since my wardrobe didn’t originally include many slim-fit options, I found myself wanting a pair in a refined beige. I began searching for slim, five-pocket beige trousers without creases or pleats, but I struggled to find anything that truly met my preferences.

    While I was interested in the reproduction of the Lee Westerner—a classic five-pocket straight-cut white denim—my ideal was something with a warmer beige tone and a slimmer silhouette than the Westerner. When I shared this vision with the staff at Visvim, they introduced me to the FLUXSUS 01 SLIM G.CORDS, the subject of this feature.

    Beige and White.

    This year, I find myself reaching not only for my usual denim but also for trousers in shades of beige and off-white. This reflects a shift in my mindset—or perhaps an evolution in my fashion consciousness—as I feel a growing desire to embrace and enjoy styles I previously seldom wore.

    To me, the combination of beige or white with brown exudes an aura of elegance and sophistication—a very “mature” palette. In the past, I viewed these colors as something to be worn as I grew older, which is why this combination had remained largely absent from my wardrobe until now.

    When it comes to selecting beige or white trousers, options like chino-style trousers or work pants (closer to khaki) typically come to mind. Having long appreciated “Americana” style, I already own various work pants and chinos, yet none possessed the slim silhouette I was searching for.

    I also own white denim, but the starkness of white is distinct from the specific beige I had envisioned. I searched for something that matched my mental image, but finding the perfect pair proved difficult.

    G.Cords

    The FLUXSUS 01 SLIM G.CORDS I purchased is crafted from high-density woven German Cord. Originally used for military purposes, German Cord is a slightly stiff, highly durable fabric.

    I don’t recall owning many items made from this specific material before, but upon holding it, I felt a sense of nostalgia—as if I had encountered and touched this texture sometime in the past.

    While it feels thinner than denim, the fabric is incredibly sturdy with a distinct firmness. It resembles a very fine-wrought corduroy, yet its rigidity is the complete opposite of corduroy’s characteristic softness.

    FLUXSUS 01 SLIM G.CORDS

    I explained to the Visvim staff that I was looking for something with a warmer tone than the Lee Westerner, but with a slimmer silhouette. They replied, “I’m not sure if it matches your exact image, but we have a slim five-pocket model in German Cord.

    Would you like to take a look?”That was when they introduced me to the FLUXSUS 01 SLIM G.CORDS in beige.

    The FLUXSUS 01 SLIM G.CORDS comes in three colors: Black, Navy, and the Beige I chose. Though it may be hard to discern in photos, the pants undergo a vintage treatment; the Black and Navy versions show exquisite fading. While the fading is less apparent on the Beige, it features subtle “stain-like” processing that removes the starchiness of a brand-new garment, giving it a seasoned, “broken-in” feel.

    At first, I was unsure if the texture of German Cord would work for me, as it differs from typical denim or chino fabrics, but I decided to try them on. Despite the stiffness and unexpected thinness of the fabric, the fit was perfect—they didn’t feel as tight as they looked, providing a comfortable, well-proportioned size.

    Due to the fabric’s unique combination of stiffness and thinness, the whiskers and creases form beautifully, creating a slimming effect on the legs. The length is just right, pairing well with both sneakers and heeled boots. After wearing them for a short while, the initial stiffness of the German Cord softened, revealing an even more beautiful silhouette than I had anticipated.

    The silhouette, craftsmanship, and color were exactly what I had been searching for in a slim beige five-pocket pant, so I purchased them without hesitation. They are exceptional in color, texture, and design, and have become an invaluable asset to my various outfits.

    • The name “FLUXSUS 01 SLIM G.CORDS” is quite lengthy, but Visvim items often carry these unique designations.
    • Items labeled “Fluxsus” signify a deep focus on material and dyeing techniques—high-density German Cord being a prime example. These often undergo garment dyeing and aging processes.
    • “01 Slim” refers to a slimmed-down version of their signature “01” straight cut. It features a tapered silhouette and a slightly lower rise.
    • “G.CORDS” is simply an abbreviation for German Cord.

    The Philosophy: From Paul Harnden to Comme des Garçons

    In my personal view, the concept behind Visvim’s outerwear, such as their jackets, shares a common thread with Paul Harnden.

    Furthermore—though it might not be immediately apparent from the items themselves—I feel that their brand philosophy and worldview resonate with Comme des Garçons. Given that Comme des Garçons stocks Paul Harnden, perhaps my intuition is picking up on that shared aesthetic lineage.

    Wearing example.

    Unlike my conventional style centered around straight-fit denim like Levi’s 501 or Lee 101, opting for white (beige) bottoms creates a more refined and sophisticated ensemble. While the overall silhouette is slimmer than that of straight-fit denim, the fabric creases so beautifully that it keeps the lower half of the body looking sharp and well-defined.

    While Brunello Cucinelli is generally versatile and accommodating of various pairings, Dior’s outerwear possesses a distinct styling that demands the right choice of bottoms. The clean, slim profile of these Visvim trousers pairs exceptionally well even with the exacting silhouettes of Dior.

    1.Brunello Cucinelli shearling biker jacket.

    FLUXSUS 01 SLIM G.CORDS paired with a Brunello Cucinelli shearling biker jacket.

    Paired with a Brunello Cucinelli shearling rider jacket. This year, I’ve been drawn to this specific color palette, which inspired my search for these trousers. The crisp wrinkles formed by the stiff German Cord enhance the overall aesthetic.

    2.Dior peacoat.

    FLUXSUS 01 SLIM G.CORDS styled with a Dior peacoat.

    Combining white trousers with a black peacoat creates a sophisticated look when accented with green and brown. Even with a piece as characterful as a Dior peacoat, Visvim’s slim silhouette is an outstanding match.

    3.Boncoura cashmere fisherman sweater.

    Visvim FLUXSUS 01 SLIM G.CORDS
    FLUXSUS 01 SLIM G.CORDS with a Boncoura cashmere fisherman sweater.

    A monochromatic beige look paired with a Boncoura cashmere fisherman sweater. This is a combination I wouldn’t have considered in the past, yet it comes together with great elegance. The hem width is exquisite—offering a narrow straight silhouette rather than a typical slim taper.

    4.Low-set rear pockets

    Visvim FLUXSUS 01 SLIM G.CORDS
    The low-set rear pockets, a vintage workwear-inspired detail.

    There is a bit of extra room from the thigh to the knee, so they don’t feel nearly as restrictive as they might look. This photo also highlights the low-slung placement of the rear pockets.

    5.side profile.

    Visvim FLUXSUS 01 SLIM G.CORDS
    The clean, streamlined side profile.

    The side profile reveals an exceptionally clean and beautiful line.

    6.Visvim work boots.

    Visvim FLUXSUS 01 SLIM G.CORDS
    Perfectly balanced pairing with Visvim work boots.

    Paired with Visvim work boots, the look becomes balanced and effortlessly relaxed.

    Detail

    • FLUXSUS 01 SLIM G.CORDS
    • Five-pocket trousers crafted from specially treated German Cord cotton fabric.
    • Garment Dyed
    • Damaged finish
    • Regular fit, slightly tapered silhouette
    • Medium rise
    • Button fly
    • Original zipper slider
    • Custom iron buttons
    • Rivets and a deerskin patch with natural dye and sashiko stitching
    • 100% Cotton
    • Color: Beige
    • Size: 1

    Combination

    • Trousers: Visvim FLUXSUS 01 SLIM G.CORDS
    • Cashmere Fisherman Sweater: Boncoura
    • Shearling Biker Jacket: Brunello Cucinelli
    • Cashmere Peacoat: Dior
    • Light Green Cashmere Knit: Tom Ford
    • Mountain Boots: Brunello Cucinelli
    • Suede Chelsea Boots: John Lobb
    • Derby Shoes: John Lobb
    • Suede Boots: Visvim

    In conclusion

    Since the beginning of this winter, I had been searching for a pair of slim beige five-pocket trousers that matched my specific vision, but to no avail—until I found the Visvim FLUXSUS 01 SLIM G.CORDS.

    Crafted from German Cord rather than typical denim or chino fabric, these five-pocket button-fly trousers are exceptional.

    The slim silhouette, the dense texture of the German Cord, and the exquisite beige hue—complete with subtle distressing—harmonize effortlessly with any jacket or footwear.

    Their inherent elegance and ease of styling have made them my most indispensable piece this season.

    I also purchased the washed and distressed denim versions in the same silhouette; they possess a distinct worldview that sets them apart from vintage Levi’s or Lee. While the fabric and coloring evoke a vintage spirit, the modern, slim fit significantly expands one’s styling possibilities.

    What distinguishes Visvim from other vintage-inspired brands is their relentless obsession with materials and weaving techniques. They masterfully integrate artisanal skills and traditional heritage crafts, creating pieces that coexist naturally with contemporary fashion.

    As someone who deeply admires craftsmanship and traditional arts, I hold profound respect for Visvim’s ability to subtly weave these elements into everyday wear.

    While Visvim’s core following may belong to a younger generation, and some pieces might suit them better than me, I find their store displays utterly captivating. Speaking with the staff reveals the extraordinary level of dedication poured into the construction of every single item.

    These high-density German Cord trousers are built for more than just aesthetic intrigue; they are incredibly durable, designed to be cherished for years as they develop a unique, vintage-like patina over time.

    While brands like Boncoura are also renowned for their focus on aging, Visvim approaches this essence from a different perspective—one that I find truly fascinating. As many of their other pieces have also become staples in my wardrobe, I look forward to featuring them in future articles.

    Shop

    The Shop: Visvim General Store Nakameguro

    I purchased these trousers at the Visvim General Store in Nakameguro. Housed in a fully renovated kominka (traditional Japanese house), the store preserves the architectural beauty of the original structure while displaying items in themed rooms with an artistic sense of space. This presentation echoes Visvim’s commitment to traditional Japanese craftsmanship; the atmosphere feels more like an exhibition of fine ceramics than a retail environment.

    Due to its global acclaim, the store attracts enthusiasts from all corners of the world. During a conversation with the staff, I mentioned that the materials and construction of Visvim’s jackets reminded me of Paul Harnden. They shared an intriguing anecdote: John Galliano, a known admirer of Paul Harnden, once visited the store and spent a significant amount of time closely examining Visvim’s creations.

    Every item is the result of immense dedication, not only in the excellence of its manufacturing but also in the brand’s tireless research into techniques and materials. Their goal is to ensure that the wearer enjoys the long-term journey of making the garment their own. It is easy to see why so many become devoted fans after their first purchase. While primarily a men’s label, many items possess a charming, unisex appeal, complemented by their women’s line, WMV. If you find yourself strolling along the Meguro River on a weekend, it is well worth a visit with your partner.

    Visvim Official Website

  • Brioni Brunico Midnight Blue (DarkNavy)

    Brioni Brunico Midnight Blue (DarkNavy)

    The Return to Tailoring

    Recently, I found myself revisiting my wardrobe, pulling a Kiton suit from Tie Your Tie out of its long-standing place in the closet. It was an act that reignited a dormant ritual—the wearing of suits and jackets. As I have moved away from a life that demands a suit as a daily uniform, my collection has become lean, focused on pieces of true substance. 

    My preference has always leaned toward the steadfast simplicity of solid navy. Among the few I have retained, there is one that stands above the rest for its sheer versatility and presence: the solid navy suit from Brioni. 

    The Roman Benchmark: Brioni

    When one contemplates the pinnacle of Italian tailoring, Brioni is invariably the first name to ascend. With a storied history and a client list that reads like a registry of the world’s elite, it remains the definitive house for men’s tailoring (and now, comprehensive sartorial lifestyle). 

    Based in Rome, Brioni’s aesthetic occupies a unique middle ground. It eschews the flamboyant flair of Milan or the soft, deconstructed signatures of Naples and Florence, opting instead for a style that is orthodox, balanced, and remarkably poised. 

    Tailoring is always a mirror of its environment. As the political heart of Italy, Rome demands a certain gravity. Brioni’s clientele is composed not only of Italy’s political class but also global leaders and public figures who seek the house’s worldwide prestige. I recall from decades ago, magazines highlighting how the late UN Secretary-General Kofi Annan favored Brioni—a testament to its status as the uniform of global authority. 

    Authority over Ostentation

    While Brioni is undeniably expensive, its value does not lie in the loud, superficial “luxury” so often marketed today. Instead, its essence is rooted in formality and authority. It is a brand for those who prioritize social responsibility and a commanding presence over mere gorgeousness. 

    Though I own only one model—the Brunico, which serves as the cornerstone of the modern Brioni silhouette—it encapsulates the house’s philosophy. It represents a “correct answer” in the complex language of masculine dress. Consequently, a Brioni suit becomes an invulnerable ally, capable of navigating any environment, at any time, with anyone, without a single flaw in its composure. 

    The Global Standard of the 007 Aesthetic

    From a purely “fashion” perspective, Brioni may lack eccentricity; it is conservative, perhaps even austere. However, the true value reveals itself only through the wearing: the impeccable fabric, the exhaustive hand-craftsmanship, and a comfort that feels like a second skin. It is a tangible philosophy of dress. 

    This is the suit that defined the James Bond of the Pierce Brosnan era—the global spy who required a world-standard suit to move effortlessly across continents. It is understated yet carries an unmistakable aura of quality.

    Allow me to introduce the Brioni Brunico in Dark Navy—the ultimate versatile companion that balances modesty with the highest level of refinement. 

    Brioni Brunico Midnight Blue – Upper body view

    For my generation, a solid navy suit often evokes images of one’s first “recruit” or “freshman” suit—the uniform of a new beginning. To wear this color again in maturity brings a renewed sense of cleanliness and a youthful spirit; it recalls the untainted ambition of one’s first year in the professional world.

    My own “freshman suit” was a two-button solid navy D’URBAN by Sanyo Shokai, which my grandfather bought for me at the Seibu Department Store. Returning to navy today feels like a dialogue with those origins.

    The silhouette of the Brioni Brunico in Midnight Blue

    Compared to more flamboyant Italian tailoring, the lapels on the Brunico are slightly narrower, featuring a subtly elevated gorge line. As a classic two-button model, the shoulders and chest are not aggressively emphasized by heavy padding, maintaining a “moderate” and balanced line. However, do not be deceived by its simplicity—this very moderation is where the most significant labor, craftsmanship, and cost have been invested. It is the hardest aesthetic to achieve perfectly.

    Brioni Brunico Midnight Blue – Brand insignia

    A simple, understated Brioni logo marks the interior. While this is an “all-season” orthodox suit, the details reveal the house’s uncompromising standards: it is fully lined, with a striking blue-striped silk fabric used for the sleeve linings. These discreet touches are the hallmark of Brioni—a commitment to excellence that only the wearer truly knows.

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  • OMEGA Seamaster Ref. 2532.80

    OMEGA Seamaster Ref. 2532.80

    As briefly mentioned in our previous feature on TIE YOUR TIE—a piece that explored the effortless elegance of Kiton and the artistry of the Sette Pieghe—this 1990s Omega Seamaster has been a steadfast witness to my life for nearly three decades.

    While the arrival of the Apple Watch eventually claimed its place as a daily utilitarian tool, this mechanical masterpiece remained my singular, unwavering choice for over twenty years, leading up to 2018.

    Seamaster Professional 300

    Formally christened the Seamaster Professional 300, it is a bona fide diver’s instrument, engineered with the rigorous water resistance and functional precision demanded by professionals beneath the waves.

    Yet, its true brilliance transcends its technical prowess. Despite its robust and resilient soul, it possesses a rare versatility—transitioning seamlessly from spirited casual attire to the sharp, refined silhouette of a bespoke suit or jacket.

    It is a testament to timeless design; a timepiece that remains indifferent to the changing tides of occasion, defined instead by its quiet, enduring strength.

    OMEGA Seamaster Ref. 2532.80

    A definitive tool watch that remains untarnished by the passage of thirty years.

    The Buckle of the Seamaster Ref. 2532.80

    Every mark on this clasp is a testament to three decades of reliability—a record of a life lived and time well-spent.

    OMEGA Seamaster Ref. 2532.80

    The Dichotomy of Time: Heritage vs. Resilience

    The antique timepieces often featured on this blog are, by their very nature, delicate vestiges of the past. Their water resistance is no longer a guarantee, necessitating a cautious retreat from the humidity of midsummer or the sudden onset of rain. They are, in essence, not intended for the rigors of daily life.

    Across the realms of horology, automotive engineering, and even the arts of guitar or camera making, the soul of an “antique” lies in the value of elapsed time.

    The criteria for excellence often rest upon how faithfully the object has retained its original form—a concept rooted more in the stewardship of culture than in mere fiscal appreciation. While monetary value exists, it is a pity that modern discourse so often fixates solely on the price tag. 

    In the world of watches, the presence of original parts dictates its historical standing. While replacing worn components is technically “best” for maintaining peak performance, the rarity of period-correct parts often leads to the use of modern equivalents.

    This creates a paradox for the collector: such maintenance, while functional, can diminish the antique integrity of the piece—a dilemma well-known to those navigating the official overhauls of Rolex dials or the hands of vintage Patek Philippe.

    However, the OMEGA Seamaster Professional 300M (hereafter referred simply as the Seamaster) exists in a different realm. Purchased new and subjected to rigorous, periodic authorized maintenance, its functional integrity remains uncompromised.

    With its sapphire crystal and modern construction, it is a timepiece that invites use rather than demanding sanctuary. One need not hesitate over part replacements or performance anxiety; it is a tool designed to be worn, maintaining its prowess through OMEGA’s prescribed care.

    A Choice of Subtle Distinction: Ref. 2532.80

    The Ref. 2532.80 graced the catalog from approximately 1993 to 2000. It is a formidable instrument, equipped with a helium escape valve and 300m water resistance—features that defined an era of professional diving.

    This lineage produced icons: the “Bond” model worn by Pierce Brosnan’s 007, and the limited editions honoring the legendary free-diver Jacques Mayol.

    At 41mm, it possesses the commanding presence expected of a diver’s watch. Yet, thanks to its stainless steel bezel and matte navy dial, it achieves a rare versatility, harmonizing with casual attire and formal tailoring alike.

    Its sibling, the Ref. 2531.80, earned global fame on the wrist of James Bond, distinguished by its navy blue bezel. At the time of my purchase, however, I sought a silhouette that would slip seamlessly under the cuff of a suit without discord. My choice was the Ref. 2532.80, favored for its monochromatic stainless steel bezel.

    While the blue-bezeled Bond model exudes a sporty, adventurous spirit—perfectly capturing the essence of a world-class spy—I felt that for a civilian life, the austere elegance of the steel bezel offered a more wearable sophistication.

    Beneath the bezel, the DNA remains identical: the same case, bracelet, caliber, and helium valve. The only difference is the color of the bezel—a subtle nuance that defines its character.

    Introduction

    Introduction: A Reawakening of Purpose

    The inspiration to chronicle this timepiece struck while revisiting a sartorial ensemble from two decades ago—a period defined by the bespoke silhouettes of TIE YOUR TIE.

    In an effort to reconstruct the aesthetic of that era, I once again fastened this Seamaster to my wrist. What began as a nostalgic gesture quickly transformed into a profound rediscovery. The watch’s seamless blend of daily utility, its understated elegance that eschews ostentation, and its sheer versatility reminded me why it held its place for so long.

    On this platform, I have curated several mechanical marvels, yet I must concede that my daily hours are predominantly claimed by the Apple Watch. Its pragmatic ease, bolstered by robust water resistance and the ability to quantify one’s physical state into digital clarity, is undeniably compelling. For more rigorous pursuits like running, I often turn to the specialized precision of a Garmin, relying on its granular data for Vo2max and peak heart rates.

    Yet, this OMEGA Seamaster possesses a narrative that modern silicon cannot replicate. In years past, it was not merely a companion for formal affairs; it accompanied me on my runs, enduring the physical toll of exercise with a stoic resilience. Wearing it again after this hiatus, I find myself reaffirmed by its dual nature—a high-performance instrument with the soul of a classic, proving its enduring charm remains untouched by the passage of thirty years.

    I. The Genesis: My First Mechanical Heartbeat

    My journey into the world of mechanical horology began with this very Seamaster Professional 300, purchased alongside my wife. It was not a calculated acquisition but rather a spontaneous one, sparked by an article she had encountered in a fashion journal.

    At the time, the model was undergoing a generational shift. I opted for the classic soul of the outgoing Ref. 2532.80 with its iconic dot indices, while my wife chose the contemporary “Bar” index of the mid-sized Ref. 2253.80.

    Ref. 2253.80 & Ref. 2532.80: A Family Legacy

    The beginning of a mechanical journey shared with my wife. These two models from the same era perfectly illustrate OMEGA’s commitment to legibility and pure functional beauty.

    As my first mechanical timepiece, the simple physics of it fascinated me—the way the hands surged to life with a few turns of the crown, the tactile click of setting the date and time without a single volt of electricity.

    It quickly became an extension of my arm. Because it was always there, it lacked the fleeting luster of a “special occasion” item; instead, it earned the profound status of a trusted tool.

    Through three decades and regular authorized overhauls, it has never faltered—a living testament to the enduring bond formed when a husband and wife embark on their first horological journey together.

    II. Robustness: A Stoic Companion in Motion

    As alluded to in my previous writing on Kiton, I have maintained a discipline of running and walking since 2010. In those pre-smartwatch days, when the digital landscape was sparse, the Seamaster was my constant companion on the pavement.

    While a standard 30m water-resistant watch might shudder at the salt and moisture of a summer sprint, this professional 300m diver remained indifferent. I would routinely rinse the sweat from its steel frame under a tap post-run.

    My only concern was the repetitive vibration of the stride. However, when I finally submitted it to the Nicolas G. Hayek Center in Ginza for service, the OMEGA master watchmaker assured me the movement remained pristine.

    It was a revelation: for my lifestyle, its resilience was absolute. It even accompanied me 40 meters beneath the waves of Oahu, where its Super-LumiNova dial cut through the Pacific depths with crystalline clarity.

    III. Versatility: From the Abyss to the Atelier

    Revisiting this watch today for a photoshoot with a suit, I am struck by its seamless adaptability. Though it is an uncompromising diving instrument, it betrays no awkwardness when paired with fine tailoring. Its monochromatic steel bezel and matte navy dial provide a muted elegance that refuses to clamor for attention.

    We must credit Pierce Brosnan’s James Bond for validating this aesthetic; his pairing of the sibling Ref. 2531.80 with Brioni tailoring set a gold standard for the “suit-diver” look.

    Yet, while the world chased the blue bezel of 007, I found my Ref. 2532.80 to be the more versatile civilian choice. Even after 25 years since its discontinuation, the bracelet remains remarkably taught, offering a “fit” that prevents the watch’s heft from shifting on the wrist—a balance of ergonomics and engineering rarely found in modern counterparts.

    IV. Understatement: The Quiet Elegance of the 90s

    Modern sports watches often lean into aggressive silhouettes—razor-sharp edges and high-polish surfaces that demand to be noticed. My preference, however, lies in the softer, more integrated lines of the 1990s.

    This Seamaster is neither a fragile antique nor a shouting newcomer. It exists in a serene middle ground, unburdened by the hyper-inflated market valuations that plague modern “icons.”

    Its charm lies in this very lack of notoriety. It does not “badly stand out” (as we say in Japan); it simply exists as a refined part of one’s person.

    I have never been one for the possessive hoarding of objects; I frequently pass cherished items to friends when their chapter in my life closes. Yet, the Seamaster remains. It is more than an object of affection—it has become, over thirty years of shared pulse and quiet service, a fundamental part of my daily reality.

    Examples.

    A Sartorial Homage Captured here is a dialogue between two legends of craftsmanship. The crisp sax-blue shirt by TIE YOUR TIE meets the structured shoulder of a navy Brioni suit—an ensemble that directly evokes the cinematic elegance of the Pierce Brosnan era.

    In this frame, the Seamaster ceases to be a mere diver’s tool and becomes the definitive punctuation mark for a gentleman’s silhouette. It is a visual testament to the “Bond Style,” where high-performance utility is cloaked in the absolute refinement of Italian tailoring.

    1.On the cuffs of the Tie Your Tie shirt

    The 41mm Silhouette

    While the 41mm diameter felt substantial at the time of purchase, it sits with perfect contemporary relevance today—a testament to its enduring proportions.

    2.On the cuffs of the Brioni jacket and shirt

    A Diver in the Boardroom

    Despite its professional diving pedigree, the watch harmonizes seamlessly with a navy suit and white shirt. The monochromatic steel bezel and matte navy dial offer a versatile understatedness that complements any formal attire.

    3.On the cuffs of the Brioni jacket

    Timeless Sophistication

    While the “Bond” association established the diver-with-a-suit aesthetic, this watch stands on its own merit. Its exceptional design balance ensures it remains a universal choice for any sartorial occasion.

    Technical Specifications & Personal Reflections

    The Specifications: A Legacy of Precision

    FeatureDetails
    ModelOMEGA Seamaster Professional 300 Ref. 2532.80 
    CertificationSwiss Chronometer Certified 
    Case & BraceletRobust Stainless Steel 
    CrownScrew-in security 
    CrystalScratch-resistant Sapphire 
    Water Resistance30 bar (300m / 1000ft) 
    MovementCaliber 1120 (Automatic) 

    The Allure: Why It Endures

    • A simple three-hand automatic with a date—highly practical and easy to live with.
    • The colorless bezel and matte navy dial create a restrained design that works in any setting.
    • The functional beauty of a true diver’s watch.
    • A dial designed with excellent legibility in mind.
    • A dial designed with excellent legibility in mind.
    • The oversized crown makes winding effortless.
    • Despite its 41mm case, it remains highly wearable.
    • Being a model from 30 years ago, it stays understated on the wrist.
    • Free from strict vintage constraints, parts can be replaced by the manufacturer without hesitation to maintain performance.
    • Maintained properly and worn continuously for over 30 years.

    The Consideration

    • The Cost of Fidelity: As with any high-grade mechanical instrument, an official authorized overhaul commands a significant investment. Yet, when weighed against its daily reliability and the thirty years of service it has rendered, it is a price paid for enduring peace of mind.

    Epilogue: Beyond the Passage of Time

    Had I not sat down to pen this article, I might never have consciously realized the profound weight of this watch—the first mechanical timepiece my wife and I purchased together, still beating faithfully on my wrist three decades later.

    It has become so integrated into my daily life that its presence felt almost like a natural extension of my own body. Even in this era where the Apple Watch claims my primary hours, I intend to keep this Seamaster close, allowing it to mark the rhythm of my time on those occasions that demand a soul.

    In an age that often prioritizes the fleeting and the disposable, I have reaffirmed a vital truth: to invest in quality and cherish it over decades enriches one’s life and fosters a sense of “social grace”—an appropriate modesty in one’s attire.

    OMEGA has historically stood not as a purveyor of mere “luxury,” but as a manufacturer of high-performance precision instruments, upholding the stern image of Swiss and German engineering.

    It may lack the ostentatious flash of its rivals, but that very restraint is precisely what I find so magnetic. This reunion with a thirty-year-old companion has been so revitalizing that it has, perhaps dangerously, sparked a new curiosity in the Seamasters of today.

    Shop

    As this model is no longer available, I cannot recommend any shops where you might purchase it. However, the Seamaster models currently on sale are also excellent watches, so please do take a look at Omega’s official website.

    Omega Official Website

  • John Lobb Darby: The Soul of an English Standard | 25 Years of Heritage

    John Lobb Darby: The Soul of an English Standard | 25 Years of Heritage

    A Classic Worth Reviving

    The Archetype of the English Derby

    Introducing the John Lobb Darby — a masterpiece that faithfully inherits the standards of traditional English footwear. When one envisions an English “Derby,” it is precisely this silhouette that often comes to mind. With its full brogue detailing, open lacing (derby), and robust double sole, it remains the most orthodox expression of the genre.

    While its appearance is rugged and stalwart, the Darby is elevated by John Lobb’s unparalleled craftsmanship and the quintessentially British philosophy of shoemaking. Utilizing the world’s finest calfskin — a hallmark of the brand’s heritage under the Hermès group — this shoe achieves a rare harmony: it is universally sophisticated yet built with a tenacity that lasts a lifetime.

    The Catalyst: A Reunion with Kiton

    The impetus for my recent article on the Tie Your Tie Kiton suit actually began with this pair. In preparing to photograph the Darby, I reached into the depths of my closet for a suit that had long been resting: the Kiton. Putting it on again sparked a realization.

    Like the suit, this Darby had been tucked away ever since I stepped back from wearing formal attire. However, after rediscovering the joy of wearing my Barros in a more casual context, I felt a rekindled desire to walk again in my Darby and Chambord. It has inspired me to once again embrace the art of coordination, bringing suits and jackets back into my daily life.

    Reflections: Beyond Consumption

    Reflecting on the memories associated with the Tie Your Tie suit while preparing this footwear chronicle was a fascinating exercise in time travel. The passing years have revealed layers of meaning I hadn’t noticed before. Although the suit article was published first for clarity, it was the Darby that truly set this journey in motion.

    A pair of John Lobb shoes is a significant investment, yet if cared for with devotion, they truly serve for a lifetime. To wear them long-term is to understand the essence of value; it is an invitation to experience the depth of European and British culture.

    The Heritage: A Lost Icon

    Authentic English shoes offer a tangible gateway to the British ethos of “cherishing things for a long time”. My own pair belongs to the classic John Lobb line — a “Derby” with its roots in the rugged lifestyle of the Country Gentleman.

    Though it possesses a masculine allure born from practical necessity, this traditional Darby has sadly been discontinued and is no longer available for purchase. It remains a vestige of a golden era of shoemaking.

    [ John Lobb Barros’s article ]

    The Form of the John Lobb Darby

    The quintessential English standard: a full-brogue Derby featuring open lacing—a silhouette that defines the heritage of British footwear.

    The John Lobb Darby, Side View

    Though these shoes bear the creases of twenty-five years of wear, the sheer quality of the calfskin and the robustness of their construction ensure they remain remarkably preserved.

    The Rounded Toe of the John Lobb Darby

    The toe features the gracefully sharp round-toe profile that was the hallmark of 1990s shoe design.

    The Original Box of the John Lobb Darby

    An authentic shoebox from the 1990s to the mid-2000s. The model name, size, last, color, and leather type are all handwritten in marker—a charming vestige of the artisanal, small-batch spirit that defined the London bespoke workshops before the era of mass production.

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  • Tie Your Tie Kiton

    Tie Your Tie Kiton

    It has been quite some time since I stopped wearing suits on a regular basis. Recently, however, a subtle change in my mindset has led me back to a pair of shoes I had long set aside — the John Lobb Barros.

    Perhaps that small shift rekindled something. I found myself wanting to wear the black derby shoes that I used to pair with my suits, and before long I began to think about wearing suits again. Not in the way I did when I was younger, as part of everyday work attire, but rather as something to enjoy in daily life.

    When I took a suit out of the closet — one that had been resting there for years — and tried it on again, it felt quite different from how I remembered it. Of course, my sensibilities have changed over time. Yet revisiting it also revealed details and impressions that I had never noticed before.

    Today, I would like to introduce a Kiton suit that I purchased about twenty years ago at Tie Your Tie.

    This time, I’d like to introduce a Kiton suit I bought at Tie Your Tie 20 years ago.

    Tie Your Tie

    For anyone with an interest in classic Italian tailoring, Tie Your Tie in Florence needs little introduction. The shop was owned by Franco Minucci, widely regarded as one of Italy’s most elegant men and celebrated as a true well-dresser.

    Minucci curated an extraordinary selection of clothing and accessories, guided by his refined aesthetic and unmistakable point of view. The shop carried some of the finest names in Italian tailoring, including Kiton and Cesare Attolini, as well as shirts from Luigi Borrelli and Rigatti, trousers from Rota, and shoes from Marini and Il Micio. Ties and small accessories were also carefully selected and often subtly adapted to reflect Minucci’s personal vision of style.

    Among the most notable offerings were bespoke garments from the Florentine tailor Seminara, as well as bespoke shoes from Marini of Rome. Tie Your Tie also introduced bespoke work by Hideaki Fukaya of Il Micio, long before he became internationally renowned. Even ready-to-wear pieces from houses such as Kiton and Attolini were often specially commissioned to reflect the distinctive aesthetic of the shop.

    Perhaps most famous were the house ties, particularly the iconic sette pieghe — the seven-fold tie made without interlining. Yet the influence of Tie Your Tie extended far beyond ties. The shop did not merely represent classic Italian style; it helped shape the direction of modern menswear. Independent of passing trends, it proposed a timeless vision of masculine elegance, making it a place where true connoisseurs of style naturally gathered.

    The world of products it presented was extraordinary. Guided by the uncompromising aesthetic of Franco Minucci, the offerings were unapologetically luxurious, with little regard for price. Yet the shop attracted admirers from all over the world. Among its well-known devotees was the Japanese footballer Kazuyoshi Miura.

    In Japan, Tie Your Tie once operated boutiques in both Tokyo and Osaka. For a time it was frequently featured in influential fashion media and high-end men’s lifestyle magazines, so many readers may recognize the name.

    Although the boutiques themselves disappeared following the passing of Franco Minucci, the ties that bear the Tie Your Tie name continue to be produced today.

    Ciro Paone

    The Tie Your Tie suit that I wear most often is a piece specially commissioned by the shop from Kiton in Naples. It is made from a slightly muted dark navy wool, a heavy fabric intended for autumn and winter, with a subtle Glen check running through it.

    The details follow the familiar Neapolitan language of tailoring: a high gorge line, manica camicia sleeves, front darts, and side vents. The trousers sit high on the waist and feature double pleats with a gently tapered, slightly fuller leg. Yet the suit is not purely Neapolitan. The proportions — a comfortable body width and relaxed shoulders — together with the choice of fabric reflect a distinctly Florentine sensibility. In this way, the suit brings together the tailoring tradition of Naples with the quieter elegance of Florence.

    A classic Italian tailored suit

    For reference, Italian suit styles vary noticeably by region. To summarize in simple terms: Rome is represented by the urban refinement of Brioni; Milan tends toward a more fashion-driven aesthetic, exemplified by Armani or Tom Ford; Naples is known for its classic tailoring tradition, represented by houses such as Kiton and Cesare Attolini; and Florence is often associated with a slightly more relaxed elegance, typified by Liverano & Liverano.

    Brands such as Armani and Tom Ford are widely known and easy to picture. However, it is helpful to understand the structure of the Italian tailoring world. Houses like Brioni, Kiton, and Attolini originally grew from traditional tailoring ateliers before expanding into larger manufacturers with their own production facilities. By contrast, figures such as Antonio Panico in Naples or Liverano & Liverano in Florence remain traditional sartorie — independent tailoring houses focused primarily on custom work.

    When one becomes deeply drawn to the Neapolitan or Florentine tradition, the path often leads to the sartoria. Tailors such as Antonio Panico, Pirozzi, Ciardi, and Solito in Naples, as well as Liverano & Liverano in Florence, represent this world. These houses typically work on a bespoke basis, creating garments entirely by hand to the client’s measurements.

    Each sartoria has its own distinctive style. When that style resonates with the wearer, it becomes possible to achieve a form of dress that ready-to-wear clothing simply cannot reproduce. At the same time, bespoke tailoring requires a certain level of experience — from understanding fabrics to navigating cost and delivery times. Without a clear image of how one wishes to dress, and without considering the entire composition of an outfit, the results can easily fall short of expectation.

    Classic.

    Italian tailoring is often collectively referred to as “Classico Italiano.” The word classic is well chosen. The suit and the tailored jacket originated as forms of uniform, and they still carry with them a number of implicit rules and enduring details. Within these fixed conventions lies the space for personal expression. In that sense, classic menswear has something in common with classical music: a composer’s score preserves the original intent, yet each performer interprets and expresses it differently through their own understanding and sensibility.

    Tie Your Tie × Kiton Jacket Style

    Kiton suits tend to feature a softer silhouette compared with other Neapolitan tailors such as Attolini and Panico, who are known for their more structured, British-influenced tailoring. The shoulders are slightly more relaxed, the body has a bit more room, and the overall silhouette sits somewhere in the middle.
    The special order made for Tie Your Tie makes the most of these characteristics, resulting in a relaxed Florentine style with a comfortable, elegant balance.

    Tie Your Tie × Kiton with a Brown Tie

    Tie Your Tie was known for pairing ties in muted tones—such as browns and purples—creating subtle yet sophisticated color combinations. In this photo the tie has flipped over in the wind, which was simply my mistake for not tying it properly.

    Tie Your Tie — Ciro Paone

    Although the label reads “Ciro Paone” instead of Kiton, it is the name of Kiton’s founder. Suits and jackets specially produced by Kiton for Tie Your Tie were labeled under the Ciro Paone name. The history and personal connections behind arrangements like this are part of what makes Italian classic style so intriguing.

    Tie Your Tie × Kiton — Manica Camicia

    The slight wrinkles visible when the jacket is hung reflect the “manica camicia” sleeve construction, a signature of Neapolitan tailoring. The fabric itself carries a faint Glen check pattern.

    Tie Your Tie Original Oxford Shirt

    I paired the suit with an original Tie Your Tie shirt, of which I own several. Made from Oxford cloth, the fabric is surprisingly soft and comfortable. I usually remove the plastic collar stays when I buy the shirt. A well-made shirt should produce a natural collar roll without the collar tips lifting, and Tie Your Tie shirts are known for their particularly elegant roll.

    Tie Your Tie Sette Pieghe Tie

    The tie features a brown irregular dot pattern and is made in the traditional sette pieghe construction, folded seven times without interlining. While Neapolitan house Marinella also produces sette pieghe ties, Tie Your Tie’s version uses a lighter fabric with a slightly more open weave, resulting in a softer, more relaxed look. I tend to choose Marinella for formal settings and Tie Your Tie when I want to introduce a more playful element.

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  • A-2 Deck Jacket

    A-2 Deck Jacket

    I have a fondness for military items and am particularly fond of field jackets. The field jackets I’ve featured previously were either single-layer constructions (M43, M47, Brunello Cucinelli) or featured a thin liner (M65).

    Due to the construction of field jackets, using them as a primary outer layer in the depths of winter presents challenges in terms of warmth. The A-2 Deck Jacket I’m introducing this time serves as a slightly warmer military-style outer layer.

    The A-2 Deck Jacket was adopted by the US Navy as cold-weather protection for deck work at sea, utilising acrylic fleece as its lining. Consequently, it blocks wind even in the depths of winter, and the acrylic fleece provides excellent insulation and warmth, making it an outer layer frequently worn during the colder months.

    The A-2 Deck Jacket introduced here is an improved version of the N1 Deck Jacket developed by the US Navy in the 1940s for deck work, adopted in the 1960s. The major difference between the N-1 and A-2 Deck Jackets lies in the materials: due to the developmental stage of nylon and polyester in the 1940s, the N-1 Deck Jacket was made from natural materials – cotton fabric with an alpaca lining.

    By the 1960s, when the A-2 Deck Jacket was developed, material advancements had led to the increasing use of nylon and polyester. Initial production runs retained the cotton outer fabric but changed the lining from alpaca to acrylic fleece. Subsequent modifications saw the cotton outer replaced with a cotton-polyester blend fabric, offering improved maintenance properties and durability.

    1970s A-2 Deck Jacket

    My beloved A-2 deck jacket dates from 1978, crafted from cotton-polyester fabric with an acrylic fleece lining and brass zips.

    Much like the M65, it is a genuine military garment, highly functional, and its stoic form, devoid of excess, is profoundly masculine. It is an exceptionally versatile outer layer; simply throwing it over denim creates an instant, effortless look.

    The difference from a field jacket lies in the thickness of the fleece lining. This results in a tighter fit and a silhouette that tends to puff out more easily. Compared to a field jacket, choosing a thinner inner layer ensures greater comfort and prevents the silhouette from becoming distorted.

    A-2 Deck Jacket

    The Navy adopted it for deck work, so its purpose was as military workwear; its details differ from the field jacket, such as the shape of the pockets and the absence of epaulettes.

    A-2 Deck Jacket with Inner Boa Lining

    The inner fleece lining is substantial, and the thick cotton-polyester blend fabric is windproof, keeping you warm even in winter.

    Introduction.

    A-2 Deck Jacket

    The A-2 deck jacket was officially adopted by the US military from the early 1960s until the 1990s.

    Its defining characteristics lie in the simplification of features found on the Field Jacket, such as epaulettes and flap pockets, which were designed to maximise freedom of movement for both hands in combat zones. Instead, it incorporates only the essential functionality required for naval deck operations, which was its intended purpose.

    As it is designed for work at sea, where temperatures are typically lower than those encountered in the Field Jacket’s intended environment, its lining features acrylic fleece to provide enhanced warmth.

    In contrast to the M65, designed for combat wear and built on the premise of infrequent donning and doffing to adapt to changing environments, this deck jacket is intended for continuous wear during deck work. It is designed to withstand the cold of deck duties, hence the acrylic fleece lining.

    Compared to field jackets, its origins as workwear for cold conditions mean it features thicker inner layers, making it slightly bulkier. It also has simpler details, incorporating functional pockets similar to those found on field jackets.

    As I wrote in the M65 article, the M65 has a relatively relaxed fit, meaning it retains its silhouette well even when layered with thick innerwear. In contrast, the A-2 deck jacket features a fleece lining, and wearing thick innerwear restricts movement. Its bulky form also makes the silhouette appear puffy when worn.

    Compared to the M65, the A-2 Deck Jacket hasn’t inspired as many fashion industry followers, though some brands do offer reproductions. However, while the original N-1 has become iconic and sees many reproduction items, reproductions of the A-2 – designed as an evolution of the N-1 and for mass production – are less common.

    The A-2 Deck Jacket, being genuine military wear, carries a rugged image. Designed as workwear for cold weather, it provides warmth even with thinner layers underneath, making it a valuable outer layer for the colder winter months. Its thick, sturdy construction means the A-2 Deck Jacket’s distinctive character comes through regardless of the inner layers worn; it is recommended to style it by embracing this inherent character.

    DecK Jacket.

    I’ve always admired the functional beauty of field jackets and rarely had occasion to wear deck jackets. However, come midwinter, a field jacket proves insufficient against the cold, so I’ve chosen the A-2 deck jacket as a military alternative.

    As I mentioned in my M65 article, the M65 has a generous armhole, allowing me to layer thick knits underneath to combat the cold. I enjoy opting for the A-2 deck jacket on days when I feel like wearing something warmer than the M65.

    Rather than being an outerwear choice, I tend to wear the A-2 deck jacket more often on days when the temperature makes me want to wear slightly thinner layers underneath.

    [ M65 Fieldjacket’s article ]

    The characteristics of deck jackets, including the N-1, lie in their thickness due to the inner lining and their extremely simple form, stemming from their adoption as workwear. The absence of accessory parts like flap pockets and epaulettes, which are part of the M65’s functional beauty, means they have a less distinctive appearance. Compared to the M65, they also give a less pronounced sense of wearing military wear.

    The substantial inner lining resists creasing when worn, contributing to a somewhat flat appearance and a slightly puffed silhouette. This creates an item that divides opinion.

    Middle70s.Model

    The A-2 deck jacket featured here is a 1978 model. The form of the A-2 deck jacket, much like the M65, shows little variation over the years. The primary change in early materials was the shift from cotton twill to a cotton-polyester blend, whilst the fundamental form has remained consistent.

    The A-2 deck jacket features a tag attached to the inner neck area. Examining this tag reveals details such as the year of US military issue and the size. The number DLA-100-78-C-9882 shown on the tag image below is the contractor information (delivery details), where the “78” in 100-78 indicates the year of manufacture.

    These are the characteristics.

    • A simple collar
    • Three pockets
    • Fastening with zip and buttons
    • Brass zip
    • Acrylic fleece lining
    • Cold-weather cuff ribbing
    • Side adjusters at the hem
    • Stencil print on the back (marked USN: issued by the US Navy)

    The A-2 deck jacket, 1978 model, features:

    A-2 Deck Jacket Tag

    The tag displays washing instructions, size, management number, contractor number, and contractor name. The “78” in DLA-100-78 denotes the year of manufacture.

    Ribbed Cuffs of the A-2 Deck Jacket

    The sleeves feature ribbing for the purpose of keeping out the cold.

    Brass Zipper of the A-2 Deck Jacket

    The fasteners are made of brass and feature Talon fittings.

    Side Adjusters on the A-2 Deck Jacket

    Adjustable fasteners are provided under both arms to alter the width.

    Back Stencil on the A-2 Deck Jacket

    A-2 deck jackets feature stenciled markings to identify the unit to which the wearer belonged. While various patterns exist, my A-2 deck jacket has been sprayed to obscure the stencils. I suspect this was done by either the original owner or a subsequent owner to prevent the stencils being identified. The upper USN marking remains legible, confirming it was issued by the US Navy.

    Combination

    A-2 Deck Jacket features a fuller silhouette compared to field jackets, as it is designed as workwear for cold conditions. It also has a shorter length than field jackets.

    The khaki colour pairs exceptionally well with denim, and it can be enjoyed not only with denim but also with various inner layers and bottoms.

    The most noticeable difference from field jackets is that, due to the acrylic fleece inner layer, both the body width and armholes feel narrower. 

    Consequently, wearing thick inner layers can restrict movement and create a bulky appearance.

    For inner layers, military-style thermal T-shirts pair most naturally. I favour the US Army-adopted thermal T-shirts, now reissued by Real McCoy’s. Their fabric thickness and honeycomb structure trap air, providing knitwear-level warmth. Being cotton, they also resist static electricity.

    Despite being made from thick cotton fabric, the military thermal T-shirt has a fairly tight silhouette, allowing you to wear an A-2 deck jacket without looking bulky.

    Paired with a sweatshirt, it creates a classic Americana style. However, modern sweatshirts often have wider armholes, so wearing one under an A-2 deck jacket can feel constricting around the shoulders and arms. Personally, I don’t mind and enjoy pairing it with items like Champion’s Reverse Weave.

    Being khaki in colour, it pairs easily with denim or chinos. Provided you pay attention to the thickness and size of the items worn underneath, it’s quite forgiving in terms of colour coordination. Thanks to the acrylic fleece lining, even just the thermal T-shirt and A-2 deck jacket provide sufficient warmth during the daytime in winter.

    This time I’ve paired the Champion Reverse Weave with a military-style thermal T-shirt, but the thermal T-shirt wins in terms of comfort and styling. If you don’t fasten the front, you can enjoy it as a sweatshirt too.

    I don’t do this myself, but if you plan to wear sweatshirts or similar as inner layers, choosing a size one step larger than your usual will alleviate any feeling of tightness or bulkiness.

    In early spring or late autumn, you can even wear it over a short-sleeved T-shirt. Rather than using it solely for deep winter warmth, enjoy it as a light outer layer for early winter or early spring. This way, you can wear it comfortably without feeling bulky or constricted.

    The A-2 deck jacket boasts a long service life of over 30 years in US military issue, meaning a large number of second-hand items are available, making it a relatively easy piece to acquire. As genuine military wear in khaki, it is an excellent outer layer that effortlessly creates a rugged or stoic look simply by throwing it on.

    Pages: 1 2

  • John Lobb Lawry

    John Lobb Lawry

    As mentioned in my previous article on Barros, I recently purchased a pair of John Lobb shoes for the first time in 25 years. The shoes I bought are the Lawry, a boot that epitomises John Lobb. The Lawry is a Chelsea boot featuring side gore panels. Whilst the classic choice is black calf leather, I opted for dark brown suede.

    I chose the dark brown suede for its compatibility with denim and the beige-toned trousers I’ve been favouring lately.

    This marked my first purchase at a John Lobb flagship store in 25 years. While the quality of the product is, of course, excellent, the feeling of acquiring a pair of shoes truly tailored to me by a skilled craftsman practising his art within the John Lobb store – a sensation I experienced 25 years ago – remains unchanged even after this long interval. It evokes nostalgia and, simultaneously, leaves me impressed by their enduring philosophy.

    This time, I present the Lawry, John Lobb’s signature boot.

    [ John Lobb Barros’ article ]

    Barros’ article also mentions the Marunouchi branch purchased on this occasion.

    John Lobb Lawry
    Unlike the Barros introduced previously, the more modern, long-nosed 7000 last creates a refined silhouette that appears sharp from the instep to the toe.
    John Lobb Lawry
    The suede is soft, so it’s difficult to appreciate in photographs, but these boots boast a beautifully refined form.

    Introduction.

    Although I owned several pairs of boots, they were all work-style boots with rounded toes. I didn’t own any Chelsea boots or side-zip boots, which follow the lineage of leather shoes. The reason was that, despite being boots, they had a formal shape suitable for suits and the like, so I didn’t feel they were necessary for my casual style.

    My approach to fashion has shifted somewhat, leading me to choose the John Lobb Chelsea boot, the Lawry, which I’m introducing here. Crafted on John Lobb’s now-standard 7000 last, these boots feature a cleaner, more refined silhouette from instep to toe compared to my older John Lobb shoes. 

    With casual wear in mind, I opted for dark brown suede rather than the classic black calf leather.

    While the suede lends a casual feel, the construction and form are quintessentially John Lobb, resulting in a refined silhouette that pairs well with suits. Compared to the Barros U-tip introduced in my previous article, the curve from the instep to the toe is slightly sharper and more refined. This creates an elegant silhouette that avoids excessive casualness, despite the suede.

    Black calf leather is also extremely refined, but personally, I find it can appear a little stiff when paired with denim or chinos, hence my choice of dark brown suede. (The boot silhouette does look more polished in glossy black calf leather.)

    Lawry

    Lawry had considered purchasing a pair ten years ago, specifically wanting black suede, but it wasn’t part of the standard range. It would have required ordering via their “By Request” made-to-order service.

    John Lobb’s “By Request” service incurs a surcharge of around 30%. They do run a “By Request Fair” in early spring where orders can be placed without this surcharge, but I was never able to make it work logistically and ended up not buying.

    Recently, I gifted a pair of Berluti shoes to a friend and junior colleague as a congratulatory present, which made me consider buying myself some leather shoes. I thought about the John Lobb Lawry I’d wanted before, and even considered the standard calf leather version. Wanting to see the shoes in person, I visited the John Lobb Marunouchi store.

    Upon arriving at the Marunouchi store, I asked to see the calf leather Lawry. As I visited late on a weekday, a private room used for bespoke fittings at the back was available, and I was shown in.

    The staff member mentioned that having a purchase history would make sizing easier. I explained that my last purchase was 25 years ago, so the record might not exist, and provided my name and phone number. The staff member checked immediately and found my details in the customer register. They said that since my previous Derby purchase was a size 7½ on the 8695 last, a size 7½ Lawry would be suitable, and brought out a black calf leather Lawry in 7½.

    I tried them on immediately; the size 7½ was absolutely perfect. The beautiful form and comfort were superb, and I was considering the black calf leather Lawry, but when I asked if they had a suede version, they mentioned a dark brown option and checked stock. The Marunouchi store didn’t have the size 7½ dark brown suede Lawry in stock, so they brought a size 8 dark brown suede pair so I could see what it looked like.

    It was slightly large, but I tried it on to get a feel for the overall look. During the fitting, I confirmed that the suede was softer and more comfortable to wear than the calf leather. Standing in front of the mirror to check the overall impression, it had a softer, more casual feel than the black calf leather, which I preferred, so I decided on the dark brown suede Lawry.

    Size 7½ is fine, so I request the dark brown suede Lawry to be ordered.

    At this point, I ask the staff if it’s possible to add rubber soles to the leather soles. They confirm that the John Lobb Marunouchi store can handle this. It feels like a different era compared to the old image, where I couldn’t imagine a John Lobb flagship store offering such a service.

    John Lobb Marunouchi Store

    During my conversation with staff at the John Lobb Marunouchi store, I asked whether this Marunouchi location had relocated twice. They explained that after opening initially, the store first moved to the opposite side of Nakadori Street before recently relocating to its current premises.

    I mentioned that my purchase history was quite old (25 years ago), having bought shoes at the Minatomirai branch and the Aoyama flagship store in Gaien. This led to talk of the store manager at that time. The staff member assisting me had also worked with that manager. When I described him as having the gentle character I remembered, yet being a leather enthusiast and a great lover of John Lobb shoes, the staff member nodded in agreement.

    I conveyed that had it not been for the then Aoyama flagship store manager passionately extolling the virtues of John Lobb shoes, my perception of them might have been different, and I might not own and cherish a pair today. This led to a discussion about how that manager was something of a missionary, increasing the number of John Lobb enthusiasts in Japan.

    At that time, John Lobb shoes were high-end, but not as expensive as they are now. Rather than being a luxury brand, they were seen as the finest shoes, meticulously crafted by shoemakers. After the bubble economy, they were introduced to Japanese consumers, whose tastes had been refined by the bubble, as one of the finest products available overseas.

    They also fundamentally changed the way Japanese people chose leather shoes. The widespread adoption of plain-toe Oxfords with suits in Japan was largely influenced by British shoes such as John Lobb and Edward Green.

    The staff at the Marunouchi store who assisted me this time not only possess extensive knowledge about John Lobb shoes, but also offer advice tailored to each customer’s usage patterns and occasions. They also provide clear explanations about the differences in lasts, a topic frequently discussed when purchasing John Lobb shoes.

    As mentioned with Berluti, John Lobb also meticulously maintained purchase records dating back 25 years. As leather shoes are items with an exceptionally long lifespan, many customers use them for a lifetime. Consequently, the extended timeframe for customer management is a hallmark of premier shoe retailers. Naturally, both Berluti and John Lobb thoroughly retain and manage the purchase histories of their customers.

    Because they are aware of my past purchase history, much like Lawry, when I inquired whether rubber soles could be fitted to my three pairs of leather-soled shoes, they examined the condition of the shoes. They explained that unless the leather soles required a full sole replacement (all-sole), they could prepare the leather soles during maintenance and apply rubber soles, meaning the cost and turnaround time would not be excessive. As John Lobb shoes with shoe trees inserted are quite heavy, bringing all three pairs at once would be difficult. I therefore informed them I would bring them in one pair at a time when I found the time. 

    I also recalled a past anecdote, a metaphor used by shoe enthusiasts comparing John Lobb to Berluti: “John Lobb could kill a man, but Berluti couldn’t” (meaning that sturdy John Lobb shoes, quite heavy with shoe trees inserted, could serve as a murder weapon for bludgeoning, whereas whereas Berluti, with its softer leather and lighter weight even with a shoe tree, wouldn’t make a suitable murder weapon).

    John Lobb shoes also fall within a considerably high price bracket, positioning the brand as a luxury retailer akin to Berluti. The distinction between the two lies in the fundamental approach to customer service: Berluti prioritises the high-end brand experience, treating shoes as an extension of this, resulting in exceptionally attentive and considerate service tailored to the customer. John Lobb also presents a high-end brand image in its shop design and merchandise, but its approach is fundamentally more homely. Its stance is less about offering luxury shoes and more about providing well-made footwear. Product explanations focus less on appearance or status and more on topics like the difference in comfort due to the last used, or the intended usage environment for the shoes available. Staff make suggestions based on the customer’s intended use, guiding them towards selecting shoes that suit them.

    Both brands employ staff well-versed in apparel, who will discuss your attire and preferences while assisting with shoe selection. This conversation becomes a truly enjoyable, blissful experience for those passionate about clothing and footwear.

    Compared to Berluti, John Lobb sees greater business use, making them particularly adept at discussing formal attire like suits. Rooted in British tradition (though actually French-owned), their focus is more on dressing than pure fashion, meaning conversations about suits and shirts tend to lean more conservative than those at Berluti.

    While proceeding with the Lawry fitting, arranging for items to be ordered, and making arrangements to have rubber applied to the leather soles, the conversation flowed freely—covering John Lobb shoes, stories of past shops, and the fashion worn that day.

    Conversations with staff at the Marunouchi store also evoked the same stance I sensed 25 years ago at the Aoyama store: providing customers with shoes made from truly fine leather, meticulously crafted by skilled shoemakers, tailored to fit them perfectly, and intended to be cherished for years. It proved a most pleasant experience.

    Purchase and Maintenance

    The dark brown suede size I selected was unavailable at the Marunouchi store, so it had to be ordered. It arrived at the Marunouchi store within a few days, spanning the weekend, and I took it straight to the workshop to have rubber soles fitted. I was informed it would be ready for collection in about a week, with home delivery also possible.

    When collecting the Lawry shoes, I mentioned that I would be bringing in the Barros shoes for maintenance, and would return another day. Trying on the Lawry shoes after they came back from the workshop was fine, and the rubber had been applied neatly. I collected the Lawry shoes and requested maintenance for the Barros shoes I brought in that day, along with rubber soles. The staff member assessed the condition and confirmed that a full sole replacement wasn’t necessary. They provided an estimate and approximate completion time for the maintenance and rubber sole application work. The price was very reasonable, so I agreed without hesitation.

    At this point, the staff member remarked nostalgically that the Barros shoe trees were an older type.

    John Lobb Lawry
    The curve from toe to heel is beautifully formed, and this curve is designed to enhance comfort rather than merely for visual appeal.
    John Lobb Lawry
    The suede upper lacks the sheen of leather, making the form less apparent, yet it retains the classic Chelsea boot silhouette. It features a beautiful curved line from the instep to the toe, narrowing at the heel and arch before widening at the ball of the foot and tapering towards the toe.
    John Lobb Lawry
    The curve from the heel’s bulge to the ankle creates an exquisite fit when actually worn.
    John Lobb Lawry
    I did not take any photographs, but the shoe box has been changed to a reddish-purple colour, and the shape of the shoe tree has also been made more user-friendly.
    John Lobb Lawry
    When purchasing, I had rubber soles fitted to the shoes. This allows me to wear them without issue even on surfaces where leather soles would be slippery.

    Wearing example.

    This time, I’ve paired Lawry with chinos and slim-fit cotton trousers. As beige-toned trousers complement it better, I haven’t combined it with denim.

    John Lobb Lawry
    Rather than just looking at the shoes, you can really appreciate their refined form when you actually wear them.
    John Lobb Lawry
    Pairing them with trousers that are slimmer than chinos creates a well-balanced and elegant combination.

    Lawry

    • Last 7000
    • Colour: Dark Brown Suede
    • Leather: Suede
    • Sole: Single Sole
    • Size: 7 1/2 E Width

    Combination

    Five-Pocket Trousers: Visvim

    Shoes: John Lobb Barros

    Chino Trousers: Boncoura

    Knitwear: Boncoura

    In conclusion

    This time, I purchased John Lobb shoes for the first time in 25 years. Times have changed, and alongside the orthodox, timeless British shoes, the range now includes trendier styles. The brand seemed more high-end than before. However, upon actually visiting the shop, handling the products, trying them on, and making the purchase, I found the essence remained firmly intact: that traditional British shoemaker’s stance, like a bespoke shop, offering shoes crafted by skilled shoemakers tailored to the customer, just as I had experienced 25 years ago.

    A defining characteristic of John Lobb shoes is that the impression they make when admired without being worn differs, in a positive sense, from the impression when actually worn. This stems from the truly excellent leather selected, the meticulous craftsmanship, and the universally superb design.

    Being very orthodox British shoes, they are not flashy, yet they possess an intrinsic dignity that adds a sense of quality to the wearer’s ensemble.

    The Lawry I purchased this time is also from John Lobb’s classic line, a very orthodox Chelsea boot. I opted for suede, which is not the most conventional choice, but both the construction and style are quintessentially John Lobb. Even when worn casually, the quality and dignity are maintained. This is the result of a long history of consistently producing fine items without sparing effort.

    Being rather pricey, they aren’t something one buys frequently. Yet, when worn, they exude a refined elegance. Their superb comfort and robust construction, promising years of loyal service, inevitably make one yearn for the next pair.

    Being suede, they require less upkeep than leather shoes, though one misses the pleasure of polishing them to make them truly one’s own. Nevertheless, the quality of the leather and the craftsmanship ensure they are excellent shoes that will be enjoyed for many years to come.

    Shop

    This time, I purchased Lawry at the John Lobb Marunouchi store.

    As I’ve mentioned several times in the article, it is one of the world’s finest shoes and a brand representing British footwear. With Hermès capital involved, the store exudes a high level of luxury, creating an atmosphere that makes it rather difficult to pop in casually.

    However, upon entering the shop, viewing the shoes, and listening to the staff’s explanations, one encounters not merely the image of a luxury brand, but the robust, no-nonsense world of British footwear. These are shoes crafted by skilled shoemakers; they may lack flashy appearance, but they are designed to fit the wearer perfectly, offering exceptional comfort, durability, and longevity.

    The staff, too, feel less like luxury brand personnel and more like traditional shoemakers. They pay close attention to foot shape and offer advice to help customers select shoes that truly suit them.

    The true value of John Lobb shoes is one that customers come to appreciate after wearing them for a considerable period. This value lies in the shoes gradually moulding to the wearer’s feet over time, achieving a fit and comfort unmatched by other footwear.

    John Lobb shoes are exceptionally well-made; if cherished and worn carefully, they can last a lifetime. I have owned three pairs of Derby shoes for 25 years. They show no signs of deterioration; rather, years of wear have moulded them perfectly to my feet. While offering a distinct comfort from trainers, they remain remarkably easy to walk in for extended periods without fatigue, making them utterly indispensable.

    John Lobb shoes are fundamentally classic, yet exude understated elegance when worn. The brand provides high-quality footwear tailored to the wearer and operates a system designed for long-term enjoyment. It offers an experience closely aligned with British sartorial culture – akin to having shoes fitted by a British gentleman at a historic British shoemaker’s workshop for years of cherished use.

    While the threshold may feel slightly high, the Marunouchi store, which operates with a deep understanding of John Lobb’s philosophy and history, is highly recommended for those seeking shoes that truly fit their feet, possess understated elegance, and can be worn for a lifetime.

    JohnLobb Official Website

  • Alanui Icon Jacquard Cardigan

    Alanui Icon Jacquard Cardigan

    Introducing Alanui’s Couchin Sweater, crafted by highly skilled artisans using luxurious, premium cashmere.

    When I think of Couchin Sweaters, I recall the thick shawl-collar cardigans reminiscent of Canadian folk costumes that my friends wore during the 90s Americana boom. The colours were ivory and brown, with geometric patterns.

    As I mentioned in my article on Boncoura’s fisherman’s sweater, while I do like thick knits, they inevitably let the wind through, making them difficult to wear in the depths of winter. This meant that, despite wanting to try a Couchin sweater, it was one I never quite got round to buying.

    About five years ago, during a rare visit to Barneys with my wife, the staff member assigned to her suggested this Alanui cardigan. Its intriguing design and comfortable feel led me to purchase it – the Icon Jacquard Cardigan I’m introducing today.

    Alanui is a relatively new Italian brand founded by a former Vogue staff member. It focuses on environmental issues while developing garments designed to be worn for a long time without being discarded. The theme is clothing that feels comfortable to wear while travelling, offering designs that are both excellent and exceptionally relaxed and comfortable to wear.

    True to its theme of comfortable, long-lasting wear, the brand places considerable emphasis on materials and construction. While its mainstay is knitwear using premium cashmere, it also offers slightly oversized pieces.

    They lavishly use cashmere yarn from Carriaggi, Italy’s premier cashmere spinning mill. Knits are crafted using jacquard weaving with several types of yarn, resulting in cashmere sweaters with highly intricate designs and colour schemes. A famous example is the Icon Jacquard Cardigan featured here – a jacquard-woven cowl neck sweater with fringe detailing.

    The pattern I own is a cowichan sweater featuring a design reminiscent of a Native American rug mat, with a black base and stripes of blue, red, and yellow – a style rarely seen in recent collections.

    Alanui Icon Jacquard Cardigan
    As it dates from the late 2010s, the oversized fit is not extreme, merely featuring slightly dropped shoulders.
    Alanui Icon Jacquard Cardigan
    The asymmetrical colour scheme on the back subtly showcases the craftsman’s exceptional skill.
    Alanui Icon Jacquard Cardigan
    A cashmere knit with this much fringe was probably first introduced by Alanui.
    Alanui Icon Jacquard Cardigan
    Alanui features a medal on its logo.
    Alanui Icon Jacquard Cardigan
    It features a simple yet highly intricate braid.
    Alanui Icon Jacquard Cardigan
    It is meticulously woven using the Jacquard technique.

    Introduction.

    Knitwear as outerwear

    Personally, during winter, I inevitably end up choosing warm outerwear due to the lower temperatures in the early morning and late at night. Being rather lazy by nature, my clothing choices tend to jump straight from summer shorts and T-shirts to winter down jackets, skipping over the lighter outerwear suitable for early winter or early summer.

    Though not mentioned in the article, what I often wear in early winter or early summer are zip-up hooded parkas or Patagonia’s R1 thin fleece. They’re easy to wash and manage, so I inevitably end up reaching for them.

    My approach to buying clothes, when considered annually, was largely limited to two purchases: cool summer items and warm winter items, and that was about it. However, around thirty years ago, I started buying clothes at Barneys, where my wife often shopped. A Barneys staff member taught me that purchasing clothing four times a year – spring, summer, autumn, and winter – tailored to the temperature, and combining these pieces, leads to comfortable and seasonally appropriate dressing. This prompted me to buy lightweight outerwear for early spring and late autumn.

    After taking care of my parents, my interest in fashion waned, so I reverted to my original approach of selecting summer and winter garments rather than the four-season approach taught at Barneys.

    In recent years, my perspective on the clothes I wear has shifted, and I now enjoy fashion in the manner described in the articles on this site.

    This preamble has become rather lengthy, but regarding knitwear, my long-held view was that it was something worn as an inner layer during winter. However, the cowichan sweater I’m introducing here is a knit designed to be worn as an outer layer.

    Due to the nature of knitwear construction, it inevitably becomes chilly when windy in winter, making it difficult to wear on windy days. Yet, on calm days, it provides warmth and comfort even in winter, making it a valuable piece.

    Icon Jacquard Cardigan

    Alanui’s Icon Jacquard Cardigan features a jacquard weave inspired by the traditional Couchin sweater, showcasing various patterns. It boasts a shawl collar, pockets with edging, and fringe detailing. Designed for relaxed travel wear, it has a slightly oversized fit.

    My Icon Jacquard Cardigan is 100% cashmere, though recent material research has led to the development of blends such as cashmere-silk-cotton tri-blends. While authentic cowichan sweaters tend to be quite heavy and stiff, the Icon Jacquard Cardigan, whilst resembling a cowichan, is remarkably light and soft, offering excellent comfort.

    The one I’m wearing features a Native American rug-inspired pattern, rather than the geometric pattern typical of the current Icon Jacquard Cardigan’s classic Couchin design.

    Cariaggi lanificio s.p.a. 

    Alanui’s cashmere utilises high-quality, colour-fast cashmere yarn from Italy’s Carriaggi. A defining characteristic of Carriaggi’s cashmere yarn is its twisted construction, which, despite being cashmere, offers greater durability compared to other cashmere yarns. This results in reduced pilling, a common weakness of cashmere.

    It is said that Brunello Cucinelli’s cashmere knitwear, which I greatly respect, utilises this Carriaggi cashmere yarn. While other renowned brands are also reported to use Carriaggi yarn, high-end houses like Brunello Cucinelli do not officially disclose their materials. Consequently, the specific use of Carriaggi cashmere yarn is not widely recognised.

    Brunello Cucinelli has deep ties with Carriaggi. It is well known that Brunello Cucinelli gained fame through its cashmere knitwear, which led to its current successful business expansion. It is also said that when Mr Brunello Cucinelli founded the company, he purchased cashmere yarn from Carriaggi, subsequently producing the highly regarded, premium-quality cashmere knitwear.

    Brunello Cucinelli is also listed among the shareholders of Carriaggi, while Chanel is among the shareholders of other top fashion houses.

    I own three Brunello Cucinelli cashmere knits and one cashmere-silk knit. I find they resist pilling remarkably well; even when wearing a car seatbelt, I notice little pilling on my shoulders or underarms. This is something I consistently appreciate as a hallmark of Brunello Cucinelli’s cashmere knitwear.

    Alanui’s cashmere knitwear also exhibits similar resistance to pilling. Upon investigating the reason, I discovered they utilise cashmere yarn from the Carriaggi company, which explains the high quality and is entirely convincing.

    I myself am not particularly knowledgeable about fashion, so I had no interest whatsoever in matters concerning materials or spinning. However, it is fascinating that there exists an excellent Italian spinning company specialising in cashmere, and that cashmere knitwear spun from their yarn is said to be more comfortable to wear, have better colour fastness, and be more durable than standard cashmere knitwear. When you actually wear products made from it, you can clearly feel the difference.

    When one indulges in a hobby like dressing well, one’s interest extends beyond the product itself to its origins. Understanding the reasons behind its creation and quality craftsmanship fosters a deeper affection for the item.

    I had already noticed the exceptional comfort and durability of Brunello Cucinelli knitwear and the Alanui knit featured in this article. Discovering that the reason lies in the cashmere yarn used makes perfect sense. I feel that the very essence of a brand name – that sense of reliability – naturally encompasses an unseen commitment to quality, something we don’t consciously think about in everyday life.

    I later asked a member of staff at Brunello Cucinelli, who told me that Brunello Cucinelli sources its cashmere directly from Mongolia. They have a good relationship with Carriage, and whilst they do not use their knitwear, they do use Carriage’s cashmere fabrics for items such as jackets. (Added on 25 March 2026)

    Combination

    Alanui’s Icon Jacquard Cardigan is a cowichan sweater, and as it pairs well with denim in an Americana style, I’ve combined it with jeans.
    Alanui’s suggestion is a relaxed style, so ideally it should be worn with slightly loose-fitting, faded denim that allows unrestricted movement. However, I’ve paired it with slim-fit denim from Visvim.
    For reference, I’ve also compiled a styling example with 501XX jeans. The overall silhouette pairs exceptionally well with the 501XX’s wide cut. While this combination offers a more timeless and balanced look, my current preference leans towards a slightly slimmer bottom, hence the Visvim slim-fit jeans.
    As it’s a cowl neck jumper, the neckline is open, so I often wear a scarf with it. Since the knit has a pattern, I pair it with a plain-coloured scarf. As it’s a very casual combination, I’ve chosen a cashmere knit scarf from Cruciani.
    For the inner layer, in winter I wear a thin Brunello Cucinelli cashmere-silk crew neck, and in early spring I simply pair it with a T-shirt.

    The Alanui Icon Jacquard Cardigan excels in its quality, offering a substantial cashmere knit with an open chest. This allows you to enjoy it well into early spring by simply changing the inner layer. Even with a classic style – a white T-shirt underneath, faded denim and trainers – you can achieve a relaxed yet sophisticated look.

    Wearing example.

    (1) Combined with Visvim’s slim-fit denim

    This season, I’ve been wearing slimmer-fit denim and trousers more often than the traditional straight-leg Levi’s or Lee jeans. For this Aranui Icon Jacquard Cardigan, I’ve paired it with Visvim’s Slim Straight, which also has a slimmer silhouette.
    As it’s still a bit chilly, I’m wearing a Brunello Cucinelli cashmere-silk crew neck underneath. Should I feel cold around the neck or chest, I’ll wrap a　Cruciani cashmere knit scarf.
    On my feet, I’m wearing White’s semi-dress shoes, which pair well with denim.

    Alanui Icon Jacquard Cardigan
    Simply throwing it on casually creates a relaxed look.
    Alanui Icon Jacquard Cardigan
    The silhouette from behind is also exceptionally beautiful.
    Alanui Icon Jacquard Cardigan
    If it feels a bit chilly, wrapping a scarf around your neck and chest should do the trick.
    Alanui Icon Jacquard Cardigan
    As the knit has a pattern, I’ve paired it with a plain-coloured scarf.
    Alanui Icon Jacquard Cardigan
    The scarf has volume, yet the overall silhouette is neatly put together.
    Alanui Icon Jacquard Cardigan
    The back view is also neatly put together.
    Alanui Icon Jacquard Cardigan
    If you’re going to leave it open at the front, I’ll wrap the scarf loosely.

    (2) Combined with Levi’s 501XX

    Compared to Visvim’s slim silhouette, this is a more orthodox cut, but a slightly wider straight leg like the 501XX offers a more universal and balanced silhouette.

    As it was cold on the day of the shoot, I paired it with a thin knit inner layer, but in early spring, pairing it with a white T-shirt or similar inner layer creates a more casual and relaxed style.

    Alanui Icon Jacquard Cardigan
    The overall silhouette is more universally balanced with the slightly wider leg of the 501XX.
    Alanui Icon Jacquard Cardigan
    The slightly loose fit from the thigh down to the hem of the 501XX pairs well with knits, creating a cohesive overall silhouette.
    Alanui Icon Jacquard Cardigan
    The silhouette balance from behind is also good.

    Detail

    • Alanui Icon Jacquard Cardigan
    • 2nd Model (1966-1972)
    • Manufactured 1969
    • Fabric: Cotton-polyester blend
    • Aluminium zip
    • Epaulettes present
    • Cuff gussets present
    • Size: Small-Short

    Combination

    • Denim: Visvim
    • Denim: Levi’s 501XX (1954)
    • Cashmere silk crew neck: Brunello Cucinelli
    • Cashmere knit scarf: Cruciani
    • Knit beanie: Brunello Cucinelli
    • Boots: White’s Semi-Dress
    • Belt: Real McCoy’s

    In conclusion

    Similar to Boncoura’s fisherman sweater, I introduced Alanui’s Icon Jacquard Cardigan, a thick knit worn as outerwear. Its appearance doesn’t suggest traditional cashmere knitwear, yet when worn, it proves to be high-quality cashmere, exceptionally comfortable, and stylish even when casually thrown on.

    The patterns and motifs, while North American in design, are constructed by an Italian brand from an Italian perspective, making it a highly intriguing cardigan.

    When I first saw Alanui knitwear at Barneys, my initial impression overlapped with that of Lucien Pellat-Finet. Much like Pellat-Finet, who weaves skulls and hemp motifs into traditional luxury cashmere knitwear, Alanui’s cashmere knitwear, inspired by Native American clothing motifs, was remarkably interesting, diverging significantly from the conventional image of cashmere knitwear.

    When I previously purchased Lucien Pellat-Finet knitwear at Barneys, I was informed that the strong twist in the Scottish cashmere yarn allows for home washing. Pellat-Finet knitwear also exhibited remarkable durability, resisting pilling even when caught on car seatbelts.

    Alanui’s knit, woven from Carriaggi’s high-quality cashmere yarn, is also highly resistant to pilling. Including its design and concept, it evokes for me the image of Perlafine from the 2010s. (Alanui recommends dry cleaning.)

    Despite being knitwear, it functions superbly as outerwear, wearable from early winter through to early spring. While I wouldn’t do it myself being prone to overheating, draping it over faded cut-off denim on an early summer evening creates an outstanding look with a hint of surfer style. As the weather warms, I plan to showcase pairings with cut-off denim and T-shirts.

    Shop

    The Alanui Icon Jacquard Cardigan featured here was purchased at Barneys New York’s Yokohama store.

    Whilst I haven’t visited recently, both my wife and I frequented the store extensively in the early 2000s, purchasing various items. Both the men’s and women’s departments assigned us dedicated stylists. Having shopped there for many years, they offered tailored suggestions based on our existing wardrobe and preferences, and we learned a great deal from Barneys. Just recalling brings to mind Carpe Diem, Carol Christian Poell, Lucien Pellat-Finet, LA-style denim, HTC, Burberry Prorsum (the original), Jil Sander (under her own name), Helmut Lang, Dolce & Gabbana, Dior Homme, and Saint Laurent under Tom Ford, amongst many others.

    Though not clothing, I’ve used Aesop products like face creams, body creams, shampoos, and their room fragrances for over 20 years, having discovered them at Barneys.

    Items purchased at Barneys during that era, including their design, were of such high quality that they became popular among juniors and friends, and I ended up passing on most of them. Their selection truly exceeded the typical scope of a select shop.

    Fly shirts, Borrelli shirts, Kiton, Attolini, Belvest – these were all items I discovered at Barneys. My own interest in fashion waned in the 2010s, so I gradually stopped visiting, but for my wife, it remains a wonderful store she has patronised for over twenty years.

    Having frequented the shop for many years and interacted with various staff members, I witnessed several changes in ownership and direction. This transformed it from the initially edgy, New York flagship-style store, leading to staff departures. The image of Barneys – that of a shop with a sharp edge yet staff who genuinely understood customers and offered excellent advice – has faded. Nevertheless, it remains a splendid shop.

    Not just Barneys, but high-end clothing stores in general seem to be facing tougher business conditions compared to earlier times. I sincerely hope they persevere.

    Recently, I made a sudden purchase of a different item after a long time. The staff’s service was as splendid as ever, and the joy of visiting the shop, selecting clothes, and making a purchase remains firmly intact.

    The Ginza store has recently reopened after refurbishment, and the range of items on offer is comprehensive. The signature Barneys style, where you can complete your entire look, remains very much alive. Why not pop in with your wife on a day off?

    ※ In the late 2010s, Alanui items were available in Japan, including at Barneys. However, as of February 2026, there is no official Japanese distributor for Alanui, and the brand is no longer carried by select shops or similar retailers. To purchase Alanui items, you must do so via the brand’s official Italian website or international online retailers such as Farfetch.

    Barneys New York Official Website

    “Berneys New York” Global shipping is not supported. Come to the shop when you come to Japan.