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  • Brunello Cucinelli Mountain boots

    Brunello Cucinelli Mountain boots

    At first glance, they appear rugged and substantial, yet when worn, they reveal a clean, refined silhouette. Crafted from Brunello Cucinelli’s signature high-quality, supple calf leather and featuring a TPU sole, these mountain boots offer exceptional lightness and comfort.

    Brunello Cucinelli’s styling proposals include unexpected combinations that diverge from the norm. This aligns with one of Brunello Cucinelli’s core concepts: styling inspired by the perspective of resort wear.

    Conventional fashion thinking wouldn’t suggest pairing mountain boots with suits or jackets. Part of Brunello Cucinelli’s appeal lies in proposing such unexpected styling, like wearing mountain boots with a suit.

    As I do not own a Brunello Cucinelli suit, I cannot personally pair mountain boots with one. Fortunately, I do own jackets for both spring/summer and autumn/winter, albeit casual ones. When wearing my beloved corduroy jacket for autumn/winter, I often have the opportunity to try Brunello Cucinelli’s suggested combination: pairing a tailored jacket with mountain boots. While seemingly an unexpected pairing, this style achieves a relaxed yet playful sophistication.

    While discussing Brunello Cucinelli’s unique, unexpected combinations featuring mountain boots, the boots introduced here are also exceptional as standalone footwear. They embody Brunello Cucinelli’s signature relaxed sophistication, representing superb mountain boots that no other brand could replicate.

    [ Brunello Cucinelli Suede penny lofer’s Article ]

    These boots are exceptionally soft and comfortable to wear. I sense the same high standard of craftsmanship, quality materials, and shoemaking philosophy common to all Brunello Cucinelli footwear. I have experienced a similar sensation with their suede loafers in the past.

    Brunello Cucinelli Mountain boots
    Brunello Cucinelli Mountain boots

    Crafted with meticulous care from premium calf leather to create mountain boots.

    Brunello Cucinelli Mountain boots
    Brunello Cucinelli Mountain boots

    The colour is café (dark brown) and the laces are also leather laces in the same shade, so there is absolutely none of the bulky, rugged look inherent in the form of a mountain boot, nor any sense of clutter around the laces.

    Introduction.

    I myself had never owned or used proper mountain boots in the past, but about 20 years ago, I saw some wonderful mountain boots by the Italian brand Giacometti at Barneys, and I had it in the back of my mind that I wanted to get some somewhere.

    At the time, I was regularly wearing a Moncler down jacket (from the mountain wear era, in a moderately smoky pastel green), and I vaguely thought it would be wonderful to pair my favourite bootcut jeans with those beautiful Giacomo mountain boots. However, Barneys stopped stocking them, and in the end, I was unable to purchase them. (At the time, I was fond of two pairs of boots: lace-ups and zip-up boots from Carpe.)

    Mountain boots are designed for climbing, so they are heavier duty than regular shoes. They have a slightly unusual shape, and the thick soles and lacing structure mean they add quite a bit of volume to your feet when worn. They balance well with puffy, voluminous items like the mountain down jackets of yesteryear, creating a sporty style.

    After that, I went through a period where I distanced myself from fashion, and I completely forgot about mountain boots. However, when I went to look at Brunello Cucinelli’s corduroy jackets, the mountain boots I’m introducing today caught my eye.

    While their styling is refined and attractive, I was astonished by their soft comfort and lightness when worn – completely different from other mountain boots. Although my purpose was to buy the corduroy jacket and matching trousers, I was utterly won over by the excellence of these unrelated mountain boots and purchased them alongside the jacket and trousers.

    A playful sensibility reminiscent of Brunello Cucinelli

    On my first visit to the Brunello Cucinelli Ginza store, I purchased a corduroy jacket and corduroy trousers, which were close to the blazer set I had intended to buy. From a conventional perspective, if selecting shoes to match, the standard approach would be to choose either the Derby shoes offered by Brunello Cucinelli or, for a slightly more relaxed look, loafers. However, as I already owned John Lobb Derbies and U-tip shoes, I hadn’t given it much thought. Whilst having shoes shown to me, the item that caught my eye was the mountain boots featured here. 

    When I asked to try on the mountain boots, the Brunello Cucinelli staff suggested that pairing them with a blazer is a delightful combination, one of the playful elements of the Brunello Cucinelli style. The white corduroy trousers also pair with mountain boots as part of the brand’s concept. They suggested that pairing them with a blazer takes the typical blazer outfit concept a step further, creating a look that truly embodies the Brunello Cucinelli aesthetic. 

    At that moment, I honestly thought, ‘A blazer and trousers with mountain boots?’ I’d previously been shown how mountain boots look great with denim or chinos, so the staff’s unexpected reaction surprised me.

    Staff say’s Furthermore, our staff advised that whilst we would typically recommend a Derby or loafer for easy styling versatility, the mountain boot option represents a choice that, if I may use an analogy, skips one or two steps beyond the entry-level Brunello Cucinelli selection. It is generally recommended as a playful choice for those who already confidently wear various items from the Brunello Cucinelli range.
    The reasoning behind this recommendation is that the mountain boots, chosen as an accent piece to complement the corduroy blazer and corduroy trousers combination you selected, look exceptionally well put together. Furthermore, considering that you typically favour denim and might wear them as bottoms with non-Brunello Cucinelli items, mountain boots are more casual and versatile than derbies or loafers, offering greater wearability and more opportunities to wear them.
    Indeed, pairing the corduroy jacket you’ve decided to purchase with the off-white corduroy trousers and mountain boots works well.
    As often discussed when introducing Brunello Cucinelli, I’d normally think, “Well, they’re both Brunello Cucinelli, but one’s more casual, bordering on formal, like a blazer, while the other’s a mountain boot for hiking – they’re items with different philosophies and purposes. How will that work?” But contrary to my expected mismatch, it looks more natural and refined than I’d imagined.

    Derbies and loafers are considered formal footwear when regarded as proper leather shoes, though they are more casual than boots. As they are leather shoes often worn as part of a suit or jacket ensemble, they create a harmonious and stable combination. Brunello Cucinelli’s derbies and loafers, whether in suede or calf leather, feature unique colour palettes and textures. When paired with jackets or suits, they offer a suitably relaxed, effortless feel. This combination is refined, something other brands struggle to achieve; seeking a similar aesthetic proves highly challenging.

    Typically, one would follow Brunello Cucinelli’s established approach of pairing their derbies or loafers to embrace the understated sophistication and elegance the brand proposes. Yet, the suggestion to deliberately step outside this, introducing an element of playfulness by choosing mountain boots, is surprising. Trying this combination oneself reveals a worldview that makes perfect sense.

    • The fact that the corduroy jacket and corduroy trousers were winter items also prompted the choice of boots rather than loafers. Subsequently, when ordering a jacket for spring/summer MTM, the style paired with Brunello Cucinelli’s slim-fit denim also saw the purchase of Brunello Cucinelli’s soft suede loafers.
    Brunello Cucinelli Mountain boots
    Brunello Cucinelli Mountain Boots with Thick Soles

    These mountain boots are solidly constructed with thick soles, yet possess a surprising softness and lightness that belies their substantial appearance.

    Brunello Cucinelli Mountain boots
    Brunello Cucinelli Mountain Boots: Meticulously crafted

    They are meticulously crafted, with leather that is suitably supple, and the lacing system provides excellent adjustability for a perfect fit. A further characteristic is that they are comfortable to wear and do not cause fatigue.

    Brunello Cucinelli’s superb comfort

    The comfort of Brunello Cucinelli garments, stemming from their fine materials and superb tailoring, can be summed up simply as clothes that feel good to wear. This phrase is frequently discussed in fashion media.

    The suede loafers I’ve written about previously boast an exquisite combination of the suede’s softness and the sole’s suppleness. It might sound a bit exaggerated, but they offer a level of comfort rivalling that of New Balance trainers. My own reason for being such a huge fan of New Balance lies in their exceptional comfort and the sheer pleasure they bring when worn or walked in. Brunello Cucinelli’s leather shoes, crafted from an entirely different philosophy, possess a comfort level rivalling New Balance trainers, characterised by being incredibly pleasant to wear. 

    This sensation of comfort is largely due to a stress-free element; even after prolonged wear, there is minimal foot stress and fatigue. Speaking of stress-free footwear, John Lobb shoes, crafted from a completely different philosophy, also offer this quality. The leather is moderately firm, and the shoes are weighty. However, after years of wear, as the sole moulds and the leather subtly adapts to the shape of your foot, they become an extension of your foot itself. The comfort achieved when they truly mould to your foot is distinct, though the nature of that comfort differs. I plan to cover this aspect in more detail in an article dedicated to John Lobb shoes.

    The mountain boots featured here, much like the suede loafers, offer a soft feel. They are considerably lighter than they appear and possess a moderate sole flex, making them exceptionally comfortable to wear. Within that softness, there’s a satisfying sensation from the sole’s structure, allowing stress-free driving. Conventionally, one might imagine the thick soles of mountain boots unsuitable for driving, yet Brunello Cucinelli’s mountain boots feel almost like trainers, allowing stress-free driving. 

    As an aside, driving shoes remain ideal for driving; when I drove a manual transmission car, I favoured Italian Pilotti driving shoes. They were available at Le Garage in the Axis Building in Roppongi, so I bought about three pairs and rotated them for regular use. The reason I chose Pilotti driving shoes was that their soles are reasonably firm and sturdy. Compared to other driving shoes, they didn’t wear down much, even with regular walking, not just driving.

    Pages: 1 2

  • How to Wear A-2 REAL McCOY’S

    How to Wear A-2 REAL McCOY’S

    Last time, I wrote about Real McCOY’S A-2 jacket. This time, I’d like to introduce some styling combinations I couldn’t cover in that article.

    The previous piece explored how men in their forties and beyond could wear the rugged A-2 in a sophisticated manner without appearing old-fashioned. This time, I wanted to present a more universal take on styling that truly captures the essence of the A-2.

    [ A-2 Real Mccoys Article ]

    I don’t consider myself particularly well-dressed; I simply put together outfits using the clothes I own. It’s a very orthodox way of dressing, based on basic Americana combinations, but I hope it serves as a useful reference.

    Previous Recap

    Last time, I wore a Brunello Cucinelli Western shirt as an inner layer, paired with Visvim’s slim straight five-pocket trousers, and draped a stole around my neck. This combination creates an overall slim silhouette with contemporary accessories, deliberately toning down the inherent military ruggedness of the A-2 jacket.

    The combinations described in this article

    This time, I’ve paired the classic silhouette Boncoura chino trousers with: (1. Brunello Cucinelli’s sweatshirt-style cashmere knit) as the inner layer, and (2. A 1980s HealthKnit sweatshirt) with a brushed lining.

    For footwear, I’ve chosen Brunello Cucinelli mountain boots. While pairing them with White’s boots would create a more authentic look, I opted for these as their moderate volume and colour tone complement the A2 jacket perfectly.

    1. Cashmere inner layer

    • Outerwear: A-2 flight jacket
    • Inner layer: Sweatshirt-style cashmere knit
    • Bottom: Chino trousers
    • Footwear: Mountain boots

    2. Sweat inner

    • Outer: A-2 flight jacket
    • Inner: Polyester blend crew neck sweatshirt
    • Bottom: Chino trousers
    • Shoes: Converse All Star

    Wearing a sweatshirt underneath an A-2 jacket with work trousers brings to mind Steve McQueen in The Great Escape, though unfortunately the combination I wore this time didn’t quite achieve that McQueen style.

    Still, even simply pairing it with everyday items, the A-2 remains a rugged, masculine outerwear piece with a distinctly military, disciplined edge. It possesses a great deal of character, allowing you to project a masculine, somewhat stoic yet tough aura in a very favourable way.

    How to Wear A-2 REAL McCOY’S
    A-2 REAL McCOY’S

    Unlike the previous version, the overall silhouette is standard, yet the A-2’s uniform-like construction ensures it retains its shape even when worn casually. This makes it an intriguing piece: a classic military item, yet its shorter length lends it a certain stylishness.

    Introduction.

    This year, I’ve been experimenting with slightly slimmer bottoms, such as Dior denim and Visvim cotton trousers. By wearing bottoms that are a touch more streamlined than my usual preferred style, I’m enjoying a more refined way of dressing.

    Whilst my beloved jeans and chinos have seen less wear than usual this year, these pieces transcend mere Americana.

    They form the foundation of American clothing culture – a broader category – rooted in practicality and effortless wearability (ease of movement and garment care). As such, they possess a timeless appeal.

    Whilst the theme of the previous article—wearing the A-2 in a modern, slim style—is certainly appealing, I am writing this piece to introduce a slightly more universal approach.

    Looking at the photographs taken for the article, there is no particularly edgy or sophisticated image, yet it serves as an opportunity to reaffirm the enduring appeal of universal men’s fashion.

    In the previous article, I touched upon the difficulty of successfully pulling off the A-2, noting how its strong character can overshadow the wearer, making them appear more as someone “wearing an A-2” rather than showcasing their own individuality.

    This time, however, I’ve deliberately styled it to let the A-2 take centre stage. Yet, through the power of a timeless combination, the A-2 doesn’t dominate alone; it integrates seamlessly into the overall ensemble.

    I hope this sense of balance comes across effectively.

    1. Cashmere knit inner layer.

    When considering an inner layer for the A-2, pairing it with a 100% cotton sweatshirt is the classic approach.

    However, thick sweatshirts have wide armholes, and with the A-2’s relatively narrow armholes, this can make movement slightly restricted. Furthermore, compared to 100% cotton sweatshirts, cashmere knitwear is thinner yet warmer, meaning I find myself wearing cashmere knitwear more often during the depths of winter.

    I don’t wear crew-neck sweatshirts that often; I mostly wear zip-up hoodies. The one I wear most frequently is Boncoura’s zip-up hoodie. Boncoura also has roots in vintage clothing and offers a very meticulously crafted product range; I’m a huge fan myself, so I own and love several Boncoura items, not just sweatshirts.

    Boncoura offers exceptionally high-quality sweatshirts, but their robust, thick construction makes them rather impractical as inner layers for an A-2 jacket.

    For classic pieces like the A-2 or J-100, my go-to inner layers are either thermal T-shirts or cashmere knits. I’m particularly fond of the thermal T-shirts from Real McCoy’s.

    True to Real McCoy’s ethos of authenticity, it’s made quite thick and with a solid construction. I’d like to introduce this one too, given the chance.

    This time, I’ve paired it with my most frequently worn cashmere knit: Brunello Cucinelli’s sweatshirt-style cashmere knit. This knit has just the right amount of volume, is incredibly comfortable to wear, and pairs easily with any outerwear, making it one of my most-worn cashmere pieces.

    I also adore Brunello Cucinelli’s cashmere zip hoodie, which shares the same volume as the sweatshirt-style cashmere knit.

    It’s an excellent cashmere piece that lends itself to a slightly more relaxed look or works brilliantly as an inner layer under jackets or coats.

    Brunello Cucinelli’s knits are characterised by exceptionally high quality and durability, meaning they are notably less prone to pilling compared to other knits.

    How to Wear A-2 REAL McCOY’S
    A-2 jacket, a sweatshirt-style cashmere knit, chinos and boots (mountain boots)

    Pairing the A-2 with a sweatshirt (or sweatshirt-style cashmere knit), chinos, and boots (mountain boots) creates a timeless way to wear the A-2.

    As the A-2’s length and width are fitted (though not so tight as to be uncomfortable), the volume in the lower half creates a visual synergy, resulting in an overall silhouette that appears robust and sturdy.

    How to Wear A-2 REAL McCOY’S
    Wearing a cashmere jumper as a base layer is comfortable, warm and easy to wear.

    Wearing a cashmere knit as an inner layer ensures a comfortable feel, warmth and ease of wear, making it a frequent choice.

    Even in the depths of winter, simply fastening the zip front of an A-2 jacket, adding a scarf and gloves provides ample warmth.

    Given the nature of cashmere, it should not be worn daily; allowing it to rest for several days after each wear will ensure it lasts longer.

    How to Wear A-2 REAL McCOY’S
    When you zip up the front of the A-2, its military-inspired features come to the fore.

    Closing the front zip on the A-2 jacket brings out its military elements.

    The depth of the rise and the width of the leg on the chino trousers define the overall style.

    Pairing them with a slightly shallower rise and slimmer trousers refines the look, though both combinations possess their own distinct appeal.

    How to Wear A-2 REAL McCOY’S
    Brunello Cucinelli’s Sweatshirt-Style Cashmere Knit

    This time, we’ve paired the A-2 inner with Brunello Cucinelli’s sweatshirt-style cashmere knit.

    Its volume is just right, and it’s exceptionally warm, making it an excellent piece that will prove invaluable as an inner layer beneath various outerwear when the cold of winter truly sets in.

    2. Polyester-blend sweatshirt inner layer.

    The classic choice to layer beneath an A-2 jacket is surely a light grey crew-neck sweatshirt. This time, I considered pairing it with sweatshirts I already own, but modern sweatshirts tend to have quite bulky sleeves.

    When worn under classic-cut outerwear like the A-2, the armholes feel constricted and restrict movement.

    Even the CIOTA classic 100% cotton crewneck sweatshirt – the slimmest one I own and which I thought would be the most suitable – feels slightly tight when worn as an inner layer under the A-2.

    Wondering if there might be a sweatshirt suitable as an inner layer for my A-2 or Buco J-100, I consulted the owner of Post78, a frequent contributor to this blog. True to form, the Post78 owner had deadstock of an 80s HealthKnit sweatshirt with a brushed inner.

    This sweatshirt isn’t 100% cotton but a polyester blend. With its brushed lining and 80s sizing (more accurately described as small rather than tight), it works perfectly as an inner layer even under classic silhouettes like the A-2 or Buco J-100.

    I was thoroughly impressed by the owner’s impeccable selection and bought it immediately. (Post78’s very reasonable prices are also a hallmark.)

    The owner of Post78 is truly remarkable, possessing an incredibly broad range of knowledge. If you casually ask for advice, there’s a surprisingly high chance they’ll have something close to what you’re looking for.

    His antennae are tuned across a wide spectrum – vintage, fashion, recent, meticulously crafted Made in Japan items – and he’s well versed in the cyclical nature of trends.

    Consequently, he can often accommodate even rather demanding requests, like wanting to wear something that circulated quite some time ago, hasn’t been seen recently, but you fancy it now.

    The Schiesser Revival T-shirt, featured in another article, came up during a conversation about Michael Tapia’s T-shirts, whom the owner also greatly admires.

    When I asked the owner if they had any T-shirts with the same snug fit that Michael Tapia used to make, they pointed me towards this one, noting similarities in style, size, and fabric feel. When I tried it on, it was exactly as I’d imagined, and I now wear it regularly.

    How to Wear A-2 REAL McCOY’S
    I’m pairing it with a HealthKnit fleece-lined sweatshirt from the 1980s as a base layer.

    It’s difficult to tell from the photograph, but this is a polyester-blend sweatshirt rather than a knit.

    The colour is exquisite – the most orthodox light grey – and when worn as an inner layer beneath an A-2 jacket, it brings out the appealing, just-right cheapness inherent in mass-produced sweatshirts.

    This creates an impression of an American style that favours the practical and easy-to-wear.

    How to Wear A-2 REAL McCOY’S
    On my feet, I’m wearing a pair of classic Converse All Stars

    Having gone to the trouble of wearing a crew-neck sweatshirt as an inner layer, I’ll pair it with trainers. Trainers that aren’t packed with modern technology, but rather classic ones like Converse All Stars, go well with this.

    How to Wear A-2 REAL McCOY’S
    This creates a relaxed, casual American style.

    Rather than dressing up, it gives the impression of naturally wearing things that are simply part of one’s surroundings. I adore this style, so I favour vintage and Americana worn in a relaxed, unforced manner.

    How to Wear A-2 REAL McCOY’S
    1980s HealthKnit brushed-back sweatshirt

    This is an 80s sweatshirt, and its sizing differs from contemporary pieces, offering an exquisite fit to the body.

    This is not the result of deliberate design for a particular fit, but rather because the sizing structure back then was smaller than today’s, making it unintentional.

    It possesses a perfectly balanced size that is remarkably difficult to find even when searching today.

    How to Wear A-2 REAL McCOY’S
    Chino trousers, Converse trainers and a light grey sweatshirt

    Chino trousers, classic trainers like Converse, and a light grey sweatshirt – a style I favoured and wore to death in my youth, but one I gradually stopped wearing as I grew older.

    Trying it again after so long, I appreciate the timeless appeal of this look. You do see quite a few older gentlemen who favour this style out and about, and it’s a rather excellent combination that makes them look youthful in the best sense.

    How to Wear A-2 REAL McCOY’S
    HealthKnit Brushed Sweatshirt – 1980s Deadstock

    This is deadstock from the 1980s. Although it’s a US size M from that era, both the chest width and overall length are smaller compared to modern sweatshirts, and the armholes are narrower.

    Being a polyester blend with a brushed lining, it’s soft and warm, and compared to 100% cotton sweatshirts, it can even be worn in the dead of winter.

    Chino trousers

    Chino trousers, much like jeans, are available from numerous brands and shops. Even when simply referred to as “chino trousers”, the sheer variety makes finding the right pair quite a challenge.

    In my twenties, I was fond of chino trousers and often wore Ralph Lauren ones, but as I grew older, I found fewer occasions to wear them.

    Around my mid-thirties, I bought a pair of Dolce & Gabbana chinos recommended to me at Barneys. They were extremely low-rise, slim-fitting, and made from a lustrous twill.

    I wore them a lot, but the suggested top pairing back then was a dark brown shirt or knit polo. The look was very high-fashion, which meant I gradually stopped wearing them. I ended up passing them on to a younger colleague who favoured that kind of fashion.

    Once in my forties, I acquired and wore a set of Incotex chinos and Brooks Brothers button-down shirts in different colours. This combination was particularly appealing because Brooks Brothers, following the trends of the time, had begun producing slim-fit button-downs, which I preferred.

    I owned four of these slim-fit button-down shirts in different colours and wore them regularly with these Incotex trousers.

    My approach to wearing chinos involves washing them immediately after purchase to remove the centre crease.

    I used Ralph Lauren chinos in my twenties precisely in this manner. However, Incotex chinos are designed for the so-called jacket-and-trousers style, featuring a slightly shorter length and double-turned hems, intended to be worn with the centre crease intact. Consequently, I wore them more for slightly formal occasions than purely casually.

    When I wear chinos, I favour pairs that have had the centre crease removed.

    As standard chinos sold in shops typically feature a centre crease, I wash them after purchase to eliminate it.

    At this stage, I find older, slightly heavier fabrics more suitable than those designed for formal wear.

    Boncoura’s chino trousers

    Boncoura’s chino trousers are excellent because, whilst orthodox in their sizing and fabric feel, they create an exquisite styling when worn. This characteristic is also shared by Boncoura’s signature denim.

    They are not for everyone, but whether worn by a slim, younger person or someone with a more age-appropriate build, they achieve a suitably relaxed styling.

    Simply wearing them creates a style that seems to distil the best aspects of a well-honed American culture.

    This applies to Boncoura’s products in general: they conduct deep research into the items that serve as their motifs, and are extremely particular about fabrics, materials, and construction.

    The result is not only high quality, but also an exquisite balance in terms of the feel when worn and the styling.

    This time, I’ve paired it with the A-2 flight jacket as the bottom piece, and a significant factor in achieving this polished look is choosing Boncoura’s chino trousers.

    I personally love Boncoura’s products, not just their denim and chinos, but also their sweatshirts and fisherman sweaters. I hope to feature them in future articles when the opportunity arises.

    Wearing example.

    As wearing examples with explanations are included within the article this time, there are no additional wearing examples provided.

    Combination

    • A-2 Flight Jacket : Real McCOY’S
    • Chino Trousers : Boncoura
    • Sweatshirt-Style Cashmere Knit : Brunello Cucinelli
    • Poly-Blend Crew Neck Sweatshirt : HealthKnit
    • Mountain Boots : Brunello Cucinelli
    • Trainers : CONVERSE ALLSTAR
    • Belt : Real McCOY’S
    • Knitted Hat: LEUCHTFEUE
    • Sunglasses: Ray-ban WAYFARER 90’s (BAUSCH+LAMB)
    • Watch: Rolex Day Date (1803 1969)

    Conclusion.

    This time, I’ve styled the A-2 in a more universal combination.

    In my previous article, I softened the A-2’s rugged vibe by pairing it with slim-fit bottoms and a scarf, creating a modern, refined look. This time, I’ve styled the A-2 in a more universal way, likely a combination many people already favour.

    Strictly speaking, the brands of the selected items may differ, but pairing the A-2 with chinos or a crew-neck sweatshirt is a standard way of wearing it, and I imagine many people were already practising this before my article.

    The superiority of this standard combination, practised by many more than my own experiment with refinement, stems from an American approach to dressing – a highly rational way of thinking about clothing. It hints at the depth of American sartorial culture.

    This approach to clothing – not overthinking it, simply picking items at hand and deciding combinations based on mood – is, in a sense, the ultimate coordination method. (It’s also fundamental to my own approach to clothing. One could say this is the origin of why I favour vintage and Americana styles.)

    Originally, it was a style that emerged naturally, without any specific originator, by taking items commonly worn in America and combining them.

    It began with combinations worn casually by service personnel issued with items like the A-2 jacket, military trousers, and sweats as training wear.

    Later generations, seeing this style in films and such, were naturally influenced, imitating it. This imitation then spawned further imitations, creating a cycle that ultimately led to the style becoming subtly widespread.

    This time, when considering how to style the A2 flight jacket – a US military-issued item – the ultimate conclusion reaffirmed through this article and photoshoot was that the standard American style, born from incorporating the everyday looks of issued military personnel into regular fashion, is truly the best.

    Finally, I should add that this standard, universal combination of an A-2 jacket and chinos is one answer to the question of how to wear a leather jacket without looking like an old man, which was one of the themes this time.

    While chinos, a sweatshirt and trainers is a style anyone can pull off, when someone of a certain age wears this style, it makes them look younger in a good way and gives them a polished, stylish look.

    Combining the A-2, chinos, a crew-neck sweatshirt as an inner layer, and ideally classic trainers – this standard approach using ubiquitous items – reaffirmed my belief that it represents the optimal way to avoid the “uncle-like leather jacket” look, which was the theme of my previous article and the very reason I purchased the A-2.

    Shop

    The introduction to Real McCOY’S shop is summarised in the previous article.

    [ A-2 Real McCoy’S Article ]

  • How to Wear Brunello Cucinelli Corduroy Jacket

    How to Wear Brunello Cucinelli Corduroy Jacket

    Last time, I wrote about Brunero Cuccinelli’s corduroy jacket, but as the texture of the corduroy didn’t come across well in the photographs, I’ve added more images. This time, I’ll introduce some styling combinations that I couldn’t cover in the previous article.

    As touched upon in the previous article and the one on the shearling rider’s jacket, Brunello Cuccinelli’s garments possess not only the superior quality derived from excellent tailoring and fine materials, but also a measured sense of moderation (a restrained, understated quality) and inherent elegance in their construction.

    (This philosophy is precisely what makes Brunello Cucinelli so remarkable.) Consequently, while the styling remains elegant and refined, there is a tolerance for pairing these garments with other brands or vintage pieces – clothing whose design philosophy differs entirely from Brunello Cucinelli’s approach.

    Not only does it permit such combinations, but the inherent quality and dignity of Brunello Cucinelli’s creations beautifully express the wearer’s identity.

    [ Brunello Cucinelli Coruroy Jaket’s Article ]

    I don’t possess any particular flair for style myself; I simply put together combinations using the clothes I own. It’s a very orthodox way of dressing, combining Brunello Cucinelli’s basic combinations with vintage pieces, but I hope it proves useful.

    Combinations

    This time, touching on the theme of Brunello Cucinelli’s tolerance for combinations of garments created under different concepts, I paired vintage Levi’s 501XX jeans from the 1950s (the last leather patch) with a corduroy shirt from the same era. As a contrasting combination, I paired them with Brunello Cucinelli bottoms and a Brunello Cucinelli knit.

    The boots are Brunello Cucinelli mountain boots. While pairing the 501XX with white boots would create a more authentic look, allowing each item’s strengths to shine, I chose the mountain boots because their moderate volume and colour felt like they would complement the corduroy jacket.

    1. Levi’s 501XX (1954), corduroy shirt (1950s)

    • Outer: Corduroy jacket
    • Inner: Corduroy shirt
    • Bottom: 501XX
    • Shoes: Mountain boots

    2. Levi’s 501XX (1954 model), knit

    • Outer: Corduroy jacket
    • Inner: Sweatshirt-style cashmere knit
    • Bottom: 501XX
    • Shoes: Mountain boots

    3. Brunello Cucinelli Corduroy Trousers, Knitwear

    • Outer: Corduroy Jacket
    • Inner: Sweatshirt-style Cashmere Knit
    • Bottom: Denim-style Corduroy Five-Pocket Trousers
    • Shoes: Mountain Boots

    This time, upon retaking photographs, I appreciate the quality and softness of the corduroy used by Brunello Cucinelli, alongside the superb tailoring of the jacket.

    However, I realised once more that the philosophy behind Brunello Cucinelli’s clothing design is what allows one to achieve a sophisticated aesthetic simply by casually selecting and combining items from one’s wardrobe, without any particular styling technique.

    This philosophy encompasses several elements, one being that owning Brunello Cucinelli garments means they will still work when paired with other clothes years later. Combining pieces from different seasons enhances both, yet they also hold their own when paired with garments of entirely different design philosophies.

    This naturally connects to the essential idea of wearing truly good things for a long time. The brand stubbornly continues making clothes that are not only robust and durable, but also remain timeless, unaffected by the passage of time that might make them feel out of step with the era and difficult to wear.

    For instance, if I were to reach 80 years old, my figure remained largely unchanged, and I continued to love and wear this corduroy jacket, its universal design and construction would still make it work perfectly.

    For instance, if after wearing it for about 20 years, the elbows show through and the fabric becomes slightly worn, one could apply a black suede patch and continue cherishing it. I imagine it would be rather splendid to be that distinguished older gentleman, and to have such a relationship with one’s clothes. Brunello Cucinelli’s garments make this entirely possible.

    This may sound a bit stiff, but my respect for Brunello Cucinelli’s garments stems not only from the company’s admirable social values and initiatives, but fundamentally from their meticulous craftsmanship. They create truly excellent pieces, investing considerable time and effort to provide the wearer with the intrinsic value inherent in the garment itself.

    How to Wear Brunello Cucinelli Corduroy Jacket
    Brunello Cucinelli Corduroy Jacket

    In the previous article, the photographs did not turn out well, making it difficult to convey the excellent texture of the corduroy jacket and the styling. I hope this article will do a better job of communicating that.

    Introduction.

    Last time, I wrote an article about the Brunello Cucinelli corduroy jacket, but I felt the photos of it being worn didn’t turn out well, making it difficult to convey the jacket’s texture and excellent styling. So, I’ve retaken the photos and am writing a supplementary article. As it’s been a while since I last updated the blog, I haven’t managed to establish a good photography routine, and the photos aren’t turning out well.

    Once a routine is established, you can mentally visualise the final image during shooting, which speeds up the process. It also serves as a reminder that I hadn’t been doing the absolute basics of photography – reviewing shots repeatedly and critically assessing their quality. After a break, my instincts for focal length and exposure fade; I’ve even forgotten the subtle exposure adjustments needed for sunrise or different shooting times.

    These aspects – not just the article’s theme, but also matters concerning photography itself and how to structure articles – are part of the enjoyment of running a blog and creating posts. I reckon I’ll gradually get the hang of it.

    As a side note, all my photos are taken using a mirrorless camera and tripod, with a smartphone tethering app for selfies. Taking photos of myself allows me to see how the clothing combinations and styling I’ve put together actually look. While it’s difficult to be truly objective about my own photos, one advantage is that it makes it easier to see whether my outfits look good or not.

    Combine 1950s 501XX jeans with a 1950s corduroy shirt.

    As mentioned in my previous article, I’m pairing it with a 1950s corduroy shirt featuring large collar loops and loop buttons – much like my cherished early 1950s Levi’s 501XX (final leather patch era).

    While I’d ideally pair the 501XX and jacket with American-style White’s boots, this time I’ve opted for Brunello Cucinelli mountain boots.

    When wearing the shirt as an inner layer, I pair it with a homburg or flat cap.

    One reason I adore Levi’s 501s is their wide belt loops. While the current trend for narrow belts means thick belts are less common these days, I personally prefer a thicker belt with my 501s.

    How to Wear Brunello Cucinelli Corduroy Jacket
    I’ve paired a Brunero Cuccinelli corduroy jacket with a pair of 1950s 501XX jeans and a corduroy shirt, also from the 1950s.

    Brunero Cuccinelli’s corduroy jacket is paired with 1950s 501XX jeans and a similarly vintage corduroy shirt. Compared to the five-pocket corduroy trousers by Brunero Cuccinelli featured below, the bottoms are slightly fuller, yet the styling remains cohesive.

    How to Wear Brunello Cucinelli Corduroy Jacket
    Even if you wear it casually without fastening the front buttons, the look won’t be ruined.

    Brunero Cuccinelli’s double-faced jacket, known as the One-and-a-Half-Breast, is tailored so that the front does not gape excessively. Consequently, even when worn casually with the front buttons undone, the styling remains impeccable.

    How to Wear Brunello Cucinelli Corduroy Jacket
    The overall fit is better if you fasten the front buttons.

    The jacket’s silhouette is so flattering that fastening the front buttons creates a more balanced overall look.

    How to Wear Brunello Cucinelli Corduroy Jacket
    Even when worn with slimmer-fitting bottoms, such as denim, they sit well and create a clean, streamlined silhouette.

    This jacket is soft and easy to wear, yet its construction is meticulously detailed. The line from shoulder to chest, the taper from underarm to waist, and the perfectly measured length create a clean silhouette that sits well even when worn with slim-fit bottoms like denim or tailored trousers.

    2. Wear a cashmere knit as an inner layer.

    This creates a simple style where you simply wear a cashmere knit underneath a corduroy jacket. Worn this way, rather than putting on the jacket, it can be worn in the same manner as other outerwear (peacoats, leather items, etc.), allowing you to wear it without fuss.

    It perfectly suits the style I often mention in my articles – not overthinking what to wear, simply picking up whatever clothes you like that are to hand and putting them on. This approach means you end up wearing it more often. I feel that the true essence of Brunello Cucinelli lies precisely in this: even when worn in such a casual manner, it never loses its elegance or refinement.

    Originally, I was fond of vintage clothing, so pairing denim with a tailored jacket wasn’t something I’d done much before. However, purchasing a Brunello Cucinelli jacket awakened me to the appeal of combining denim with a jacket.

    (During the period when I shopped at Barneys: late 90s to mid-2000s) I bought several jackets recommended by staff, but compared to other outerwear, I wore them less frequently. Looking back, I realise that was a waste, but at the time, my values simply couldn’t accept the formality and refined atmosphere of tailored jackets.

    While they were more stylish than other outerwear, the more polished look they demanded didn’t suit my natural, relaxed style preferences back then.

    Barneys around the year 2000 was exceptionally forward-thinking, introducing me to fashion values previously unseen in Japan. My current approach of mixing garments from various styles stems largely from what I learnt at Barneys during that era.

    I’ve since passed on most of the items I bought back then to younger colleagues. Pieces like the Carpe Diem jacket featured in the article are prime examples of what Barneys taught me at the time.

    How to Wear Brunello Cucinelli Corduroy Jacket
    I’ll wear a crew-neck, sweatshirt-style cashmere jumper as a base layer.

    Instead of a shirt, pair it with a crew-neck sweatshirt-style cashmere knit as an inner layer. This softens the jacket’s formal feel, lending a more casual vibe.

    How to Wear Brunello Cucinelli Corduroy Jacket
    A combination of underwear, a jumper and a jacket is warm enough.

    I’m wearing a V-neck T-shirt underneath the knit jumper. The combination of underwear, knit jumper and jacket keeps me sufficiently warm; with a scarf and gloves, I can stay cosy even in the depths of winter.

    How to Wear Brunello Cucinelli Corduroy Jacket
    You can enjoy a relaxed yet sophisticated look.

    Opting for a knitwear base layer instead of a shirt softens the jacket’s formal feel, creating a distinctly relaxed look. Even when buttoned up, the jacket retains its casual, laid-back vibe. By varying the colour of the knit base layer, you can introduce different looks, enjoying a sophisticated yet supremely relaxed style.

    How to Wear Brunello Cucinelli Corduroy Jacket
    A double-breasted jacket looks much smarter when buttoned up.

    Although it’s quite a relaxed style, not just with Brunello Cucinelli, double-breasted jackets look more polished when buttoned up.

    3. Brunello Cucinelli Five-Pocket Corduroy Trousers

    Pair the beige corduroy trousers in a five-pocket style (jeans silhouette) from Brunello Cucinelli as the base layer. With the jacket, inner layer, trousers, and shoes all being Brunello Cucinelli, and the material uniformly corduroy, the styling and colour palette become refined, clearly conveying the worldview Brunello Cucinelli proposes.

    As you may perceive from the photograph, Brunello Cucinelli’s corduroy is crafted exceptionally softly. Rather than the texture of denim, it offers the feel of trousers made from high-count yarn (Super 150 or higher). This lends not only a clean, refined styling and elegance but also a wonderfully comfortable, soft wear. One senses that repeat customers who adore Brunello Cucinelli return not only for the superb styling but also for this very comfort.

    How to Wear Brunello Cucinelli Corduroy Jacket
    The fine, soft texture of Brunello Cucinelli lends the piece an air of elegant relaxation.

    This ensemble features no particularly distinctive elements in its colour coordination or styling, yet the refined, soft texture inherent to Brunello Cucinelli lends it an air of sophisticated relaxation. This combination is an easy-to-wear coordination even for those older than myself, possessing a timeless appeal that allows it to be cherished and worn well into later years.

    How to Wear Brunello Cucinelli Corduroy Jacket
    Pairing them with slim, soft corduroy trousers that have a denim-like silhouette creates a clean, streamlined overall look.

    Typically, one would pair these with pleated trousers of a slightly fuller cut. However, by opting for slim, supple corduroy trousers with a denim-like silhouette, the overall look achieves a clean, streamlined finish. This versatility in offering items tailored to the wearer’s preferences, physique, and required environment is, I feel, quintessentially Brunello Cucinelli.

    How to Wear Brunello Cucinelli Corduroy Jacket
    The essence of Brunello Cucinelli’s tailoring lies in its versatility—it looks just as polished when paired with mountain boots.

    The silhouette of these corduroy trousers is crafted with the slim-fit lines of jeans, yet the cohesive softness of the fabric lends a cleaner, more streamlined appearance than when paired with 501XX jeans. While mountain boots are not typically worn with this style, the very tolerance that allows them to be paired without clashing lies at the heart of Brunello Cucinelli’s approach to garment construction.

    How to Wear Brunello Cucinelli Corduroy Jacket
    The corduroy trousers I wore last time were off-white, but the five-pocket corduroy trousers I’m wearing this time are a warm beige, giving them a soft, relaxed look.

    The previous corduroy trousers were off-white, whereas these five-pocket corduroy trousers are a warm beige, lending a softer, more relaxed feel. Paired with Brunello Cucinelli bottoms, the jacket’s exquisite tailoring is further accentuated.

    Burunello Cucinelli Corduroy Trousers

    The official name for the trousers paired with the bottoms this time is as follows.

    Italian Fit Garment-Dyed Cotton Corduroy Five-Pocket Trousers

    These five-pocket trousers feature a modern, distinctive look with a sporty edge, crafted from garment-dyed cotton in a fine-wale corduroy. The subtle stripe texture perfectly complements seasonal colours. The Italian Fit hugs the body closely while offering a slightly softer silhouette than a standard fit.

    • Colour: Ecru
    • Fastens with metallic buttons
    • Front watch pocket
    • Back patch pocket
    • Simple hem
    • Italian Fit: Regular construction around the hips and waist for a clean, harmonious fit.
    • 100% Cotton

    Quoted from the Burunello Cucinelli official website (Japanese)

    Brunello Cucinelli’s trousers feature an Italian fit for their slimmest line. (Their denim range offers an even slimmer line called Slim Fit. I own a pair myself and have featured them in a previous article.)

    The off-white corduroy trousers worn as part of a suit set, featured in my previous article, are the standard fit – the typical slimness for slightly more formal trousers designed to be paired with suits or jackets.

    As my style is fundamentally denim-based, I often pair corduroy jackets with denim. However, when I wish to wear a white-toned colour on the bottom half, these corduroy five-pocket trousers prove invaluable.

    Wearing example.

    As wearing examples with explanations are included within the article this time, there are no additional wearing examples provided.

    Combination

    • Corduroy jacket: Brunello Cucinelli
    • Denim: Levi’s 501XX 1954 edition
    • Sweatshirt-style cashmere knit: Brunello Cucinelli
    • Mountain boots: Brunello Cucinelli
    • Belt (501): Henry Quir
    • Casquette: Real McCOY’S
    • Knitted cap: LEUCHTFEUE
    • Sunglasses: Ray-ban WAYFARER 90’s (BAUSCH+LAMB)
    • Watch: Rolex Day Date (1803 1969)

    Conclusion.

    This time, I paired a Brunello Cucinelli corduroy jacket with vintage 501 jeans and Brunello Cucinelli bottoms. Comparing the photos taken, pairing the top and bottom with Brunello Cucinelli still creates a cleaner, more refined look.

    Personally, I favour a style where I casually mix and match things I like, hence pairing it with Levi’s. However, this shoot made it abundantly clear that Brunello Cucinelli’s charm is best expressed through the style Brunello Cucinelli itself proposes.

    There’s a part of me that resists overly polished fashion. I’d developed this fixed notion that wearing a full Brunello Cucinelli ensemble, while stylish, just wouldn’t suit me. Looking at these photos now, that’s completely unfounded. Brunello Cucinelli inherently possesses this refined yet effortless balance – never overdone.

    This transcends my own preconceptions, revealing that Brunello Cucinelli possesses a deeper philosophy – clothing that exists within a broader lifestyle, rather than being merely garments.

    Brunello Cucinelli’s garments inherently possess an understated quality. Consequently, however you style them, they never feel overly fashionable. (Admittedly, some combinations might not suit, but I believe the likelihood of this is considerably lower compared to other brands).

    The style Barneys proposed around the year 2000 – that sharp yet effortlessly polished mixture – formed the foundation of my approach to clothing.

    Yet, over twenty years on, the global apparel industry’s thinking and standards have evolved considerably beyond that era. Perhaps what I hadn’t perceived back then is the addition of universal, timeless elements within a single brand’s worldview. (I share a similar sentiment regarding Dior in another article)

    This serves as a valuable prompt for me to consider whether my approach to clothing might be becoming outdated and antiquated. I sense that boldly discarding my preconceptions and fixed ideas could bring about change, and it is something I intend to practise gradually.

    Shop

    The introduction to Brunello Cucinelli’s shop is summarised in the article on field jackets.

    [Brunello Cucinelli Field jackets Article ]

  • Brunello Cucinelli Shearing Biker Jacket

    Brunello Cucinelli Shearing Biker Jacket

    In our generation, it was called mouton, and more recently it’s known as shearling – a leather item where the sheepskin’s wool is sheared down to form the inner lining, with the leather surface facing outwards, resulting in a light, soft, and warm piece. This shearling, reimagined with Brunello Cucinelli’s sensibility into a double-faced biker jacket style, is the shearling biker jacket we’re introducing here.

    Double-faced rider jackets typically evoke rather rugged items like Schott, Lewis Leathers, or Buco’s J-24. More recently, pieces like those designed by Hedi Slimane for YSL have introduced a fashion-forward element. With their biker or rock-inspired aesthetic, these are inherently tough, masculine pieces that look best on younger rock bands. Wearing them as one ages becomes considerably more challenging.

    Speaking of rock, you may have seen Slash of Guns N’ Roses wearing a double-faced rider jacket as part of his stage attire. Though past sixty, he wears it incredibly stylishly as a rock star. (Slash seems to favour Lewis Leathers and Schott pieces.)

    The Brunello Cucinelli shearling biker jacket, while shaped like a rider’s jacket, is designed to be worn over a suit or as a jacket substitute. This gives it a different impression from the hard, double-faced cowhide or horsehide rider’s jackets. It allows those of a certain age to wear it elegantly and subtly, projecting a masculine rather than merely rugged vibe. Due to the nature of shearling, it is exceptionally lightweight, soft, and comfortable to wear, making it an excellent piece that can be worn with ease even by those of a certain age.

    Brunello Cucinelli Shearing Biker Jacket
    Brunello Cucinelli Shearing Biker Jacket

    The details are those of a double-faced rider’s jacket, yet crafted from shearling with a fleece-lined collar of sheepskin, eschewing the rugged, hard-wearing feel typical of standard rider’s jackets. Brunello Cucinelli’s special ageing treatment lends it a vintage, well-worn character, contributing to its soft appearance and giving it a distinctly worn-in look.

    Brunello Cucinelli Shearing Biker Jacket
    Brunello Cucinelli Shearing Biker Jacket Carefully crafted tags

    The internal logo is crafted on the surface leather. The wool lining is meticulously trimmed and curled, contributing to its comfortable feel.

    Introduction.

    In the article on the A-2 jacket, I mentioned that wearing the original A-2 requires a bit of finesse once you reach a certain age. However, the Brunello Cucinelli shearling biker jacket I’m introducing this time is an exceptional piece. Its high quality and effortlessly worn-in look mean it flatters anyone, however they choose to wear it.

    Viewed on its own, it might appear rather distinctive and challenging to style. However, it pairs beautifully with creased trousers, including denim and chinos, creating a cohesive look. Even in the depths of winter, it provides light warmth – a thin knit layer underneath is sufficient – avoiding bulkiness. This makes it a superb, versatile winter outerwear piece, delivering a stylish and refined finish.

    Order Event

    About three years ago, when I visited Brunello Cucinelli’s Ginza store, I was invited to consider a cashmere poncho for my wife, as it was due to be released the following season and was rather lovely. As this poncho was not available for general sale and could only be ordered at special order events, I was strongly encouraged to attend. Having never been to such an event before, I agreed to visit. Brunello Cucinelli holds order events twice a year; the one I attended was for the FW (Autumn/Winter) collection.

    The invitation came at the end of January, with the order event scheduled for mid-March. The venue was the press room at Brunello Cucinelli’s head office in Kioicho. We were offered refreshments while the items for the following FW season were displayed in an orderly fashion. The schedule was well-managed; including us, three couples were leisurely viewing the displayed garments. A characteristic of Brunello Cucinelli is its older clientele, and the other couples present were also from a generation slightly above ours.

    The main purpose of our visit to the order event was to select winter items for my wife. Accompanying us from the Ginza store was Mr. Brunello Cucinelli, often featured in the media, known as Mr. Hikino, who helped us choose her garments. My wife’s eye was drawn to a medium grey cashmere peacoat featuring blue, one of the season’s standout pieces. At this point, Mr. Hikino brought her a cashmere poncho in the same shade to pair with the peacoat.

    As the collar opened slightly, he also brought a cashmere scarf. Here, Mr. Hikino truly excelled, selecting a voluminous, chunky brown alpaca scarf to pair with it. The subtle Marrone Azzurro combination, with the contrasting textures of the poncho and the chunky, oversized scarf, was an exquisite pairing. It created a relaxed styling yet felt exceptionally high-quality. My wife was captivated by the ingenuity of the combination and decided immediately on the ensemble Mr. Hikino had selected.

    The Man Who Popularised Brunello Cucinelli in Japan: His Refined Styling

    My wife had made up her mind about what she wanted, and Mr Hikino kindly browsed around for something for me too, bringing me the shearling biker jacket featured in this article. Given that Brunello Cucinelli is renowned for its cashmere, and I had expected him to recommend an item lavishly crafted from the world’s finest cashmere, this was an unexpected choice.

    • My preconception was that Brunello Cucinelli equates to cashmere, so I was considering a cashmere coat. I had intended to order the recently discontinued Rudangot—a reversible coat crafted using cashmere on both sides (a very luxurious coat in the Balmaquin style)—but I understand this Rudangot has been discontinued.
    • It was an exceptionally fine coat, but reasons included excessive cost and the fact that, being reversible, it couldn’t use cupro or similar fabrics for the lining, meaning the wear experience differed from a standard coat for some individuals.
    • (Brunello Cucinelli’s interpretation of Rudangot signifies a riding-style coat, akin to their Cavallo jacket interpretation).
    • Should this cashmere reversible Balman coat be reissued, it remains an item I would very much wish to acquire.

    What I found rather unexpected about Mr Hikino’s selection was that, probably because I was wearing 501XX jeans and a Brunello Cucinelli field jacket that day, he assumed I liked vintage and Americana styles and chose a similar-taste biker jacket.

    Truth be told, my initial impression of the shearling biker jacket wasn’t particularly favourable. I rarely wear leather items myself, so I was unsure. Mr Hikino suggested, ‘It would suit today’s atmosphere; do try it on.’ So I put it on and stood before the mirror. The reflection presented a different impression from how it looked on the hanger.

    At first glance, it gives the impression of a rugged leather jacket, but when actually worn, that ruggedness doesn’t come across as strongly as expected, creating a remarkably balanced look. The ageing treatment is exquisite, pairing perfectly with the 501XX jeans worn that day. While evoking a 50s Teddy Boy style combination, it presents a very mature, elegant and sophisticated way of wearing a leather item.

    The comfort is also different from typical leather items; it’s light, soft, and the unique softness of the sheepskin lining feels pleasantly warm.

    Mr Hikino also mentioned that because it’s light and warm, it’s often worn with denim during winter. It pairs well with thermal T-shirts or Brunello Cucinelli cashmere knits, allowing you to enjoy wearing it lightly without looking bulky. Furthermore, the effect treatment gives it a vintage-like texture, so it looks naturally worn-in with any vintage jeans you own.

    What surprised me was how it looked relaxed on the hanger, felt comfortable to wear, yet when viewed in the mirror, the length and width were perfectly tailored, making my figure appear more defined. This is the result of Brunello Cucinelli’s meticulous tailoring expertise, achieved not only through pattern-making but also through considerable attention to sewing and construction. The size I tried on was an S, but Mr Hikino recommended an XS as it would suit me better when actually worn.

    After this exchange, impressed by Mr Hikino’s excellent selection, I decided on the shearling biker jacket.

    In truth, during my conversation with Mr Hikino, I kept my remarks about my shearling biker jacket and Brunello Cucinelli to a minimum. The hour-long serious discussion we had centred on my fondness for vintage clothing, leading to talk of European vintage pieces alongside American ones, and eventually arriving at the M38, which piqued Mr Hikino’s interest. As one would expect of a master of style, his knowledge of vintage clothing was profound, and I thoroughly enjoyed our rather lengthy conversation.

    The true essence of Mr Hikino’s selection

    Considering why a connoisseur of Brunello Cucinelli like Mr Hikino, who is well versed in the brand, chose a shearling rider’s jacket rather than a cashmere coat or jacket typical of Brunello Cucinelli, it becomes clear that, as stated earlier, his selection prioritised pairing with my vintage garments.

    • Mr Hikino, upon seeing the 501XX (manufactured in 1954) I wore on the order day, immediately recognised it as a 1950s 501XX. (He likely identified it instantly from characteristic details like the yellow stitching.) The conversation naturally turned to the 501XX, and then to other favourites like my Lee 101Z Black Tag (also from the 1950s).
    • He carefully noted the casual conversation we had, and while selecting a poncho for my wife based on my preferences, he likely considered what would pair best with my vintage clothing, leading him to choose the shearling rider jacket. 
    • At the time of purchase, I didn’t give much thought to why he recommended the shearling rider jacket. However, seeing the photos of the style paired with the 501XX this time, I realised Mr. Hikino must have had this particular style in mind.

    The meaning behind selecting the rider’s jacket to match my image was likely as follows.

    Pages: 1 2

  • Berluti Galet Cursive Slippers : the long-loved ones.

    Berluti Galet Cursive Slippers : the long-loved ones.

    A close junior colleague and friend had an important celebration, so I gifted them a pair of Berluti shoes, which they adore.

    This junior colleague had previously received a pair of my Berluti shoes as a gift, and they have truly treasured and worn those two pairs with great care. When I passed them on, Berluti’s handling of the customer registration change was also superb, leaving me deeply impressed and prompting me to write about it. This very impression of Berluti’s service was also the catalyst for starting this blog media.

    [ Berluti Alessandro’s Article ]

    This time, the handling of gifts for juniors and friends was also exceptionally splendid, hence I am writing about it.

    Berluti Galet Cursive Slippers
    The Galet Cursive Slippers I gifted to my junior colleague this time. Their playful design, quintessentially Berluti, appears rather flashy at first glance. Yet when worn, it’s the sophistication rather than the flashiness that truly stands out – a testament to this Parisian institution. The beauty of the patina, with its subtle gradient, embodies a unique aesthetic achievable only by Berluti. Though they are shoes, they evoke the impression of European antique furniture, rich and substantial. They also bring to mind an old dictionary with its leather cover inscribed with letters, or a map crafted from leather from the Age of Exploration.
    Berluti Galet Cursive Slippers
    These slip-on loafers are luxuriously crafted from a single piece of leather, yet the playful touch of incorporating calligraphic script is exceptionally refined. This worldview, which elevates such playfulness into something elegant and sophisticated, represents an aesthetic sensibility unique to Berluti – a brand renowned among the world’s most prestigious footwear for its beautiful patina.

    Introduction.

    About 20 years ago, I was fond of Berluti shoes, but as I stopped wearing suits on a daily basis and had fewer opportunities to wear dress shoes, I found that Berluti shoes were a little too smart for my current casual style, so I gave them to a junior colleague. My junior colleague grew very fond of the Berluti shoes, wears them more often than I did, and takes meticulous care of them. A friend who accompanied us is fond of Andy shoes, finished in a light tobacco colour with a hint of green patina, and always wears them when he wants to look a little smart.

    As both my friend and junior colleague had something to celebrate, I wanted to give them a present, so I took the plunge and gave them a pair of Berluti shoes, which they both love.

    As I mentioned in my previous article, good leather shoes are for life and can be worn for a very long time. However, if the manufacturer does not have a maintenance system in place, even shoes that can be worn for a long time cannot be worn in their original form.

    Japanese shoemakers are excellent and can handle repairs and maintenance, but it is difficult for them to match the manufacturer’s expertise in materials and processes. Furthermore, Berluti uses a unique patina finish, which I believe would be extremely difficult even for the finest Japanese shoemakers to replicate. (Including sourcing materials and paints, plus the application technique) 

    Berluti meticulously retains customer records from purchases made 20 years ago. They ensure continuity by passing these records to successors, accommodating requests for changes to customer details and maintaining a system to continue providing servicing.

    While the purchase price is high, the shoes are not only visually striking but also uniquely artistic in their construction. When considering shoes that perfectly complement any fashion, from formal to casual, Berluti possesses the world’s finest beauty. Crafted from exceptionally luxurious materials and superbly made, they mould to the foot and grow more cherished with wear. Considering the enduring pleasure this excellence provides, the price is by no means excessive.

    Companies offering such an experience are rare in modern society, not just in fashion. Berluti is a truly exceptional brand that genuinely values its rare clientele.


    American Express Luxury Shopping

    I have been an American Express enthusiast for 25 years, utilising four different Amex cards for both personal and professional purposes. Cards at Platinum level and above include a Luxury Shopping service, which provides a private space where dedicated staff attend to your shopping needs without concern for other customers.

    Berluti participates in this luxury service, so I decided to try it for the first time. As the gift is a pair of shoes requiring in-person selection and sizing, I requested this service hoping to treat a friend and junior colleague celebrating an occasion, starting with choosing the shoes.

    The dedicated American Express staff were exceptionally courteous. After conveying my requirements, they arranged the appointment with Berluti on my behalf. I was given the appointment time and the name of the Berluti staff member assigned to me. For good measure, the details were also emailed to me. On the day, I simply mentioned the assigned staff member’s name at the shop reception and was escorted to the dedicated space.

    Berluti has also established a system to handle this reservation under any circumstances. The staff assigned will be proficient in languages to accommodate foreign customers with gentle manners, supported by a manager thoroughly familiar with Berluti.

    Choose between the standard Andy or Galet

    Upon entering the shop, we were informed that the private room used for luxury shopping was occupied for exhibition preparations, so a sofa and table had been set up in the very back space of the store.
    We were shown to the sofa, asked for our drink preferences, our requested beverages were prepared, and a dedicated staff member listened to our purchase preferences before bringing the relevant items.
    My junior colleague is considering either the black Andy he didn’t have, or the black or tobacco-coloured Galet. Berluti’s Andy is an icon not just for Berluti but for gentlemen’s footwear. My junior colleague and I often discuss it, and we both agree the Andy is the world’s most beautiful loafer.
    However, being quite the dandy, my junior colleague is also interested in Berluti’s Calligraphie. His excellent taste sees through the design’s essence: the Calligraphie isn’t as flashy as it appears in photos; when actually worn, it blends in naturally.
    While my preference for shape and aesthetic lies with the Andy, the Galet in tobacco colour – crafted luxuriously from a single piece of leather, finished with a beautiful curve and patina gradient, and featuring the Caligraphie design placed exquisitely – is his true favourite.

    The junior staff member will prepare three types – Black Andy, Black, and Garé Carcassonne with tobacco – in three sizes each for comparison. (9 pairs) Whilst shops typically dislike such a selection process, Berluti instead encourages customers to take their time choosing a pair they genuinely prefer and that fits perfectly. They assist by having customers try on multiple pairs and sharing their impressions to find the ideal pair.

    Andy Demjoure Neo Flex Loafer

    A friend who adores Andy regularly rotates several pairs of Loro Piana loafers with white soles in different colours for everyday wear. He’s quite fond of them, having already had the soles replaced on two pairs.

    friend who accompanied me isn’t as particular about fashion, but comfortable shoes are a must, and slip-ons are a requirement rather than lace-ups. He initially considered loafers with rubber soles, which Berluti has also recently launched.

    At that point, the manager suggested, ‘If that’s the kind of requirement you have, how about the Andy Demjoure Neo Flex loafers?’ The Neo Flex loafers have leather soles that can be replaced, and the suede is extremely soft, moulding to Andy’s form, so he decided to try them on.

    My friend’s customer list contained the size of the Andy loafers he had purchased. Being quite tall with large feet, the Ginza store had no stock. The manager kindly checked availability at other branches.Upon checking, it was found that the Nihonbashi branch had stock. What surprised me then was the manager saying, ‘If you could wait 30 to 40 minutes, our staff will fetch them from the Nihonbashi branch.’ As I had time, I accepted, feeling a bit apologetic.

    Whilst I purchase various items at different shops, I have never heard of such service where they would go to another shop on the same day to collect an item for you. This level of service is truly unique to Berluti. Even though we are repeat customers visiting with the intention to purchase, I was genuinely astonished and deeply impressed by the excellence of their service.

    While waiting for my junior colleague’s shoes to be decided and my friend’s shoes to arrive, the staff kindly suggested I take a look at the apparel collection, which I did. As Berluti is a brand that started with shoes, it releases many leather goods of a quality unmatched by other brands.

    I was shown a shearling jacket with a Greer B3 motif and tried it on; its exceptional quality made me want to buy it. My junior colleague was tempted by a leather hooded blouson and was surprised when he tried it on. They have developed a leather that is as thin and light as nylon, with UV protection and waterproofing, and it is available in a very sophisticated range. 

    It is expensive, so I didn’t buy it, but the high-quality, sophisticated apparel line is something I would like to buy and wear someday.

    Whilst we were looking at the apparel line, my friend’s Andy Demjoure Neo Flex Loafers arrived. He tried them on immediately. As they were the same size as his existing Andy shoes, they fit perfectly. Made from softer suede than the standard Andy, with a supple leather sole, they felt completely free of that initial stiffness new shoes often have. He was thoroughly satisfied and decided on the Andy Demjoure Neo Flex Loafers.

    Refined hospitality

    Having settled on the shoes to gift both my junior colleague and friend, I completed the payment and presented the gifts to them. At that time, I was also given a year-end promotional item and a book summarising Berluti’s history.

    After receiving maintenance instructions and a final thank you from the staff and manager who assisted us, we left the shop. Though the actual shopping took just under two hours, I was deeply impressed by the shop’s wholehearted commitment to fulfilling customer wishes. This included patiently assisting my junior colleague, who has discerning taste and strong preferences, with his shoe selection, and even going to another store to fetch a product for my friend with unusual sizing.

    Each time I visit, the manager suggests I should definitely wear Berluti shoes. While I always keep Berluti in mind – their shoes are beautiful, like works of art, not just visually appealing but also superbly crafted – I explain that I’ve put the idea on hold, thinking they might be a bit too prominent for my current style. Nevertheless, knowing this is a brand that treats customers so well, my heart is stirred every time I step inside.


    Wearing example.

    This time, as they are not for my own wear, there are no photos of me wearing them. My friend started wearing them the very next day after purchase, so I couldn’t take any pictures. However, my junior colleague said they wanted to keep a record of them, so I temporarily held them, took photos, and then passed them on to my junior colleague.

    The photographs featured in this article are solely of the Galé Cursive slippers gifted to my junior colleague. The form of the Andy Demjoure Neo Flex loafers gifted to my friend is also exceptionally beautiful, so I hope to photograph them and feature them in an article when the opportunity arises.

    Berluti Galet Cursive Slippers
    The calligraphy script is asymmetrical, with the right side being the main focus and the left outer edge forming part of the toe. Viewed from the outer side of the left foot, it resembles a slip-on crafted from a single piece of plain leather. However, the exceptionally beautiful patina alone, with its subtle gradation of shades, possesses an artistic beauty.

    Galé Cursive slippers

    • Venetian calf leather
    • Colour: Tobacco Bis
    • Construction: Blake
    • Country of origin: Made in Italy
    • Collection: Classic Collection
    • Shoe tree: Included
    • Line: Galet

    Andy Demjoure Neo Flex Loafer

    • Loafer
    • Break construction
    • Demjoure Neo last
    • Camoccio calf leather
    • Venice calf leather detailing on the back
    • Cushioning on the back ensures comfort
    • Leather lining and insole
    • Flexible outsole construction

    Conclusion.

    This time, I presented Berluti shoes as a gift to celebrate a junior colleague and friend. While I have previously written about Berluti’s exceptional customer service, this recent experience reaffirmed and further impressed me with their approach, truly demonstrating the remarkable quality one expects from a long-established house.

    The following message regarding maintenance is posted on the official website.

    Founded by Alessandro Berluti, a master shoemaker and repairer, Maison Berluti places great emphasis on circularity. For the Maison, there is nothing more natural than providing care and repairs to ensure products are cherished for as long as the customer desires. From shoes and leather goods to prêt-à-porter, the Maison’s ateliers offer a range of services designed to help you enjoy your items in beautiful condition for as long as possible.

    Through years of diligently building upon the founder’s principles, establishing the trust and reputation it enjoys today, and continuing to provide services that allow customers in Japan to experience the founder’s philosophy firsthand, both I and the two individuals who received this gift hold the Berluti brand in the deepest respect.


    Shop

    The Berluti store that attended to you on this occasion is the Berluti Ginza store.

    It possesses a high level of prestige, creating an atmosphere where one hesitates to casually peek inside. However, upon entering and viewing the merchandise, one finds that the brand, based on the artistic shoes Berluti has meticulously crafted over many years, also offers leather accessories, bags, and apparel.

    As mentioned in the article , the excellence of their customer service is also world-class, ensuring the ultimate experience from the moment of purchase through to subsequent care. Having dealt in leather shoes – products with an exceptionally long lifespan – the brand embodies the philosophy that truly fine items are meant to be cherished for years. One can appreciate the cultural aspect deeply rooted in Europe, where items steeped in ancient history are considered of supreme value.

    While the shoes on display possess a beauty distinct from a sense of historical weight, it is precisely these exquisite shoes that embody the history of years spent steadfastly crafting fine footwear, cherished by customers.

    While the extraordinary beauty of these new shoes might initially make long-term care seem daunting, their colour develops over time. If you grow fond of this patina, you can enjoy the ageing process. Should changes or wear become a concern, a refresh through re-colouring is possible. This makes them excellent shoes for long-term use, embodying the brand’s philosophy.

    While my article focuses solely on footwear, the brand also offers equally splendid leather goods, bags, and apparel – all designed for enduring use. It is a brand I would wholeheartedly recommend to anyone seeking truly exceptional pieces for long-term enjoyment.

    Berluti Official Website

  • Dior Cashmere Pea coat

    Dior Cashmere Pea coat

    As mentioned in my denim shirt article, I was swayed by a junior colleague’s comment: ‘Wouldn’t it be splendid to effortlessly wear Dior at sixty?’ Consequently, I purchased several Dior pieces this year. The main item is the cashmere peacoat featured here.

    Peacoats and duffle coats are items I favour, but finding one that truly suits me these days has proven rather difficult. This Dior cashmere peacoat, however, stands out. Compared to standard melton peacoats, it’s crafted from cashmere melton. The fabric is substantial yet not overly thick, making it exceptionally light and warm – a piece that will prove invaluable during the depths of winter.

    Dior Cashmere Pea coat
    At first glance, it appears to be nothing more than a slightly slim-fitting pea coat. Yet as you experiment with various combinations, the design and meticulous attention to detail in this pea coat’s construction become apparent.
    Dior Cashmere Pea coat
    A tag is attached to the inside pocket on the left chest. Unlike other items, it lacks the Dior logo on the exterior, meaning it would likely go unnoticed as a Dior product unless spotted by a fashion connoisseur with a keen eye.

    Introduction.

    The peacoat is an iconic piece in men’s fashion, exceptionally easy to wear and effortlessly put together without much thought. The Dior cashmere peacoat featured here, however, reveals several distinctive characteristics when actually worn, making it a slightly more challenging piece to style with sophistication. Nevertheless, it is an excellent peacoat that, when key points are mastered, can be worn with remarkable refinement. I therefore wish to introduce it, including discussion of these aspects.


    Dior’s World

    To truly wear Dior, rather than simply donning what society generally perceives as high-end designer clothing, one must possess a slim physique suited to Dior’s very stoic, minimalist garments. It requires aligning one’s sensibilities with this pared-back aesthetic.

    As I wrote in the denim shirt article, there’s the anecdote of Karl Lagerfeld, the fashion emperor who led Chanel and Fendi, losing a staggering 40 kilograms. Similarly, as one approaches one’s sixtieth year, it becomes imperative to first address a deteriorating physique.

    Personally, I’ve cleared the first hurdle of being physically able to wear such clothes. What remains is to hone the sense required to truly carry them off. This sense of style isn’t so much about being good or bad, but rather whether I can accept things different from what I traditionally liked. 

    I doubt many people besides myself would find a pea coat impossible to wear, even in a slim fit. Similarly, slim-fit black denim, which looks quite narrow, isn’t as tight as it appears. I usually wear jeans with a 30-inch waist, and I wear Dior’s black denim in a 30-inch waist too.

    Compared to the straight-leg Levi’s or Lee jeans I usually wear, they are indeed more fitted. However, the waist feels slightly roomy, the thigh area is comfortable, and it’s only around the calf that I notice a slimmer feel. I don’t find them too tight or uncomfortable to wear.

    The reason these jeans appear slim yet don’t feel overly tight when worn is largely due to the depth of the rise. This attention to detail is characteristic of a top maison’s meticulous craftsmanship.

    As mentioned regarding Dior’s denim shirt, the slim silhouettes of Dior garments possess a delicate, naive, boyish quality that expresses eternal youth and resonates with Karl Lagerfeld’s sensibility. (This is purely my personal view.)

    I’ve never personally desired eternal youth, but looking at photos of myself wearing the slim-fit black denim I bought alongside the Dior peacoat, I do feel a more youthful image than my natural self.

    Admittedly, the boyish or naive qualities weren’t discernible in my photos, but purely considering the silhouette, I can sense the delicate image evoked by Dior’s aesthetic.

    Slim and tight?

    The pea coat and slim-fit denim I purchased this time carry forward the aesthetic established during the Edie Slimane era. Consequently, they are cut quite narrowly, meaning some people may find them difficult to wear or feel they don’t suit them.

    Personally, while I am slimmer than the average for my generation, my shoulders and chest are slightly larger than average. So, if you’re asking whether I fit the delicate, naive impression Dior proposes, the answer is no.

    Dior’s image often conjures up the impression of slim, tight silhouettes, suggesting one must endure wearing constricting garments. In reality, while the fit is snug, there is no sense of restricted movement or the feeling of forcing oneself into something too narrow.

    As you will see in the later examples of wear in this article, even the slim-fit black denim, which carries a decidedly slender image, shows a silhouette with just the right amount of creasing. (The calculated, exquisite placement of these creases creates a clean, streamlined look for the legs.)

    How to wear Dior peacoat

    This style, with its black pea coat and slim-fit black denim, has a distinctly fashion-forward feel in terms of colour and styling – quite unlike my usual look. As such, I feel a slight hesitation about wearing it.

    When I tried them on at the Dior Ginza store, I thought the slim-fit black jeans looked a bit too tight in the mirror. However, I wondered if my eye, accustomed to vintage pieces, might be creating a certain bias towards the style. To get a more objective view, I asked the staff and a friend for their opinions. They both said the style looked better than the combination of the Lee 101Z jeans and peacoat I was wearing at the time.

    Personally, I felt at the time that this level of slimness might be a bit embarrassing? However, respecting their opinions, I decided to try this style.

    This year, the temperatures dropped later than usual, so I rarely wore winter clothes. It wasn’t until December that I finally started wearing them. I had a chance to meet a junior colleague in Omotesando and asked him his thoughts on the black peacoat and black slim-fit denim combo I was wearing that day. This junior colleague has exceptional taste, effortlessly pulling off Tom Ford to showcase his tall, lean and muscular build with a masculine coolness that’s both understated and classy.

    He said he fully understood my love for vintage pieces, but honestly felt this style was more refined and sophisticated, and suited me better. He noted that today’s outfit complemented my physique perfectly, and that the inner aura naturally emanating from me didn’t get lost beneath the clothes. He added that even the challenging, stoic Dior style looked effortlessly worn.

    This is my personal take, but the junior’s reasoning – that the Omotesando to Aoyama area is a fashion-forward neighbourhood frequented by stylish individuals – makes sense. This Dior ensemble seems perfectly suited to the streetscape there, so their opinion could also be seen as influenced by the environment.

    Considering the area, Harajuku tends to attract those who stylishly wear vintage clothing, so vintage might be appropriate there. For instance, if we shift the location to Ginza, I feel Brunello Cucinelli garments from my own wardrobe would be well-suited. This also speaks to how one perceives the social context inherent in clothing.

    Dior’s sense of style possesses a worldview that transcends my personal preferences; it means that an outfit I might feel slightly embarrassed about wearing can appear highly sophisticated to the discerning eye. Accepting this sense of discrepancy between a third party’s opinion and my own perception is also an element that refines one’s personal sense of style.

    To experience a perfected worldview that transcends sensibilities and personal preferences

    One reason I favour vintage and Americana is the way of dressing that isn’t overly preoccupied with fashion (you could call it natural). Once you’ve built up a decent collection, you can simply pick up whatever’s in front of you and put it on without thinking, and a style just comes together.

    This approach to dressing has remained unchanged since my youth; it’s also a highly rational and efficient way to wear clothes. This fundamental approach applies not only to vintage and Americana-style items, but also when wearing Brunello Cucinelli or other top maison pieces I own. 

    Because I interact with clothes in this way, I’ve rarely worn an entire outfit from a single specific brand. While I might wear a set-up style combination, there’s always something else mixed in.

    My basic approach to dressing involves naturally incorporating pieces I’m particularly attached to or fond of into these combinations. (It’s rather like a high schooler’s favourite outfit, isn’t it?) This might be a vintage piece.

    I wear Brunello Cucinelli without consciously thinking “I’m wearing Brunello Cucinelli”. What I felt wearing Dior this time was that there was a sense of “I’m wearing Dior” somewhere in my mind, and perhaps I was subconsciously avoiding that awareness. This might be a matter of getting used to it, something that fades with time, but it was a sensation I experienced for the first time.

    What struck me about this combination of Dior’s pea coat and slim-fit denim was that it transcends the usual approach of selecting clothes without much thought about how to wear them, or the tendency to dismiss garments based purely on image. It possesses a unique worldview of its own.

    This experience transcended my previous preconceptions about Dior’s aesthetic – that while stylish, it wasn’t something I would wear. In a sense, I felt that wearing Dior this time allowed me to step into the world they’ve constructed.

    Taking photos of myself wearing the items for the article, I began to grasp what my junior colleague had meant. It was an experience that made me realise this was the essence of the world of men’s fashion that Dior has inherited from the past and continues to embody today.

    The worldview Edie Slimane built, introduced in this article, is still carried forward by Dior today. However, contemporary Dior incorporates other elements too, expressing its own distinct universe. Even when appearing casual, it still constructs its own distinct world view – truly befitting a top Parisian maison. Even if slim, minimalist clothing isn’t your preference, you can still appreciate Dior’s world view, so if you’re interested, do try wearing it.

    Below are a few photos of me wearing the pieces. I don’t have the model-like looks, so they may not be very helpful as references, but I hope you can get a sense of the atmosphere.


    Wearing example.

    Dior Cashmere Pea coat
    My own style isn’t particularly good, but simply pairing Dior denim with a pea coat somehow evokes that minimal, stoic Dior aesthetic. The colour scheme is black-based, with the inner layer and knit cap in a neutral mid-grey combination. For the inner knit, I’ve paired it with a Brunello Cucinelli sweatshirt-style cashmere knit. Honestly, someone taller and slimmer would likely showcase Dior’s strengths better. This combination is very fashion-forward, a style I’ve completely stopped wearing recently. I’ve always thought black-based combinations looked cool, but I’ve avoided them, thinking they didn’t suit me. Trying this outfit, however, made me feel I’ve finally grasped the appeal of black.
    Dior Cashmere Pea coat
    The silhouette I envision for Dior is a slender, elongated rectangle. The pea coat is tailored with straight-cut lines into a slim A-line shape, though it differs from the conventional A-line in that it is constructed to appear slightly three-dimensional from the underarm to the waist, creating an X-like silhouette. Numerous other ingenious techniques and craftsmanship are woven throughout, and this meticulous attention to construction defines the quality of a top maison, creating a unique aesthetic that other brands cannot replicate. The slim, minimalist designs created by Edie Slimane live on in today’s Dior, and the designs that appear somewhat delicate and naive remain very much present.
    Dior Cashmere Pea coat
    Wearing a pea coat with the buttons fastened creates a slender, delicate impression, but removing it reveals an ordinary figure. It becomes clear how the pea coat’s construction and finish visually consolidate one’s style.
    Dior Cashmere Pea coat
    I’ve only changed the trousers, but they pair well with slim straight-leg cotton trousers. This style isn’t overly assertive, making it very easy to wear. I also tried pairing it with 1950s Lee 101Z jeans, but while the trousers weren’t unsuitable, they didn’t create the same silhouette as slim-fit trousers. The difference from the previous Brunello Cucinelli piece is that while Cucinelli possesses a tolerance that allows pairing with other items, Dior maintains a solitary dedication that accepts only minimalist pieces in the Dior style. This represents a difference in philosophy between global top maisons like Brunello Cucinelli and Dior. Choosing between them requires a clear understanding of individual preferences and the worldview one seeks to express. This process ultimately shapes a style that truly suits the individual.
    Dior Cashmere Pea coat
    The silhouette can appear different depending on the trousers paired with Dior’s impressive peacoat. Compared to the minimalist style achieved with the aforementioned Dior black denim, this combination makes the upper body silhouette appear more ordinary.
    Dior Cashmere Pea coat
    The remarkable thing about Dior is that when you wear a pea coat, you appear slimmer—or rather, slightly more delicate—but when you take it off, you look like you have an ordinary figure.
    Dior Cashmere Pea coat
    Let’s move a little further away from the worldview proposed by Dior. Pair the beige cotton trousers with a light green cashmere knit from Tom Ford, wrap a stole around your neck, and finish with John Lobb Barros shoes. This style shifts the image from Dior’s worldview to a more general elegance. The fact that it looks elegant through combination rather than just minimalism can be seen as a by-product of the exquisite balance between good craftsmanship and fashionable touches, without going overboard.
    Dior Cashmere Pea coat
    Black is paired with pale pastel green, and this atmosphere is reminiscent of the BCBG style that was popular in the 1980s.
    Dior Cashmere Pea coat
    The silhouette appears different depending on the combination of innerwear and bottoms. This style, pairing beige trousers with the top, creates a more timeless and elegant look, making it an easy style to wear daily.

    Details.

    • Notch lapel
    • Side welt pocket
    • Inner welt pocket
    • Horn buttons with Dior engraving
    • Dior jacquard back lining and sleeve lining
    • Back vent
    • 100% cashmere, lining: 100% cupro
    • Made in Italy

    Combinations.

    • Peacoat: Dior cashmere peacoat (black)
    • Knitwear (grey): Brunello Cucinelli sweatshirt-style cashmere knit
    • Knitwear (green): Tom Ford cashmere knit
    • Denim: Dior slim fit denim
    • Five-pocket cotton trousers: Visvim
    • Hat (grey): LEUCHTFEUE
    • Watch: Rolex Day Date (1803 1969)
    • Sunglasses: Tom Ford
    • Belt: Hender Scheme
    • Shoes: Black suede work boots: Visvim
    • Shoes: Brown U-tip: John Lobb Barros

    Conclusion.

    This time, prompted by a junior colleague remarking, ‘Wouldn’t it be splendid to effortlessly wear Dior at sixty?’, I purchased and tried on a Dior piece. It possessed a worldview transcending my personal taste and sensibilities, proving a profoundly impactful experience that significantly altered my perspective on clothing. This worldview was presented to the world in an avant-garde form twenty years ago, yet it could be said that only now, two decades later, have I finally grasped its essence. One could say it took me twenty years to grasp the brilliance of Hedi Slimane. 

    I recall reading an interview where Chuck Berry mentioned it took him forty years to master a particular phrase or piece from a song by his revered Charlie Christian (a jazz guitarist, or rather the progenitor of bebop. He’s also a legend in jazz history, as bebop is said to have emerged from these musicians’ after-hours sessions). I feel a similar sense of time and effort required. (I believe this was part of an interview conducted by an American guitar magazine for the Chuck Berry film produced by Keith Richards.)

    While this article focuses on aesthetics and conceptual aspects, the Dior cashmere peacoat featured here is an exceptional piece in its own right. Beyond its styling potential, the quality of its fabric and tailoring is truly first-rate, making its comfort and lightness a given. However, Dior’s unique aesthetic is woven into it, giving it a distinct styling compared to other standard pea coats. When pairing it meticulously, the difference between suitable and unsuitable items becomes starkly apparent. Depending on what you combine it with, you might get a sense that it’s not bad, but just not quite right. (This is my pairing with the Lee 101Z)

    This experience made me realise how I myself had become entrenched in my favourite pieces, not actively seeking to incorporate novelty or freshness into my personal style.

    In terms of past innovation, Carpe Diem, Carol Christian Poell, and early Margiera were indeed avant-garde, yet they were reconstructions of past icons. That is precisely why I favoured and cherished their garments.

    However, reflecting on why Dior never suited me, it was because those aforementioned brands strongly emphasised vintage elements or reinterpretations of timeless classics—elements I felt no resistance towards. Conversely, Dior’s all-black, minimalist aesthetic—a unified worldview that seemed to reject pairing with other items—simply didn’t resonate with my sensibilities.

    This experience taught me the importance of approaching fashion without preconceptions and actually trying things on.

    Now, having worn Dior garments, experienced its worldview, and sensed the underlying power of Parisian haute couture sensibility that reaches its zenith during Paris Fashion Week, I understand its merits. Consequently, I intend to try other pieces when the opportunity arises.


    Shop

    I purchase my Dior items at the House of Dior Ginza in Ginza SIX.

    The staff are exceptionally kind, highly experienced, and offer spot-on styling advice. They also provide precise suggestions for items of interest or related pieces, proposing a complete look that embodies Dior’s vision of sophisticated dressing.

    The selection is comprehensive, covering both menswear and womenswear, and they coordinate everything from bags and accessories to cosmetics. Why not pop along with your wife on a day off?

    From the 2026 Spring/Summer season, a new designer presented the collection. It felt like a return to the fundamentals of men’s fashion, masterfully infused with Dior’s unique aesthetic. While top fashion houses over the last decade have largely imitated very casual, relaxed styles, this collection feels like a return to the essence of timeless menswear, which I find very exciting.

    Regarding the store, I’ve also explained it in detail in the denim shirt article, so please refer to that as well.

    [ Dior Over shirt’s Article ]

    Dior official website

  • A-2 REAL McCOY’S

    A-2 REAL McCOY’S

    For those aged 50 and above, when asked to picture vintage leather items, the A-2 flight jacket worn by the US Air Force during the Second World War likely springs to mind first. Even those uninterested in vintage clothing and unfamiliar with the name “A-2” will recognise the silhouette of leather jackets inspired by this design – the collar, shoulder epaulettes, and flap pockets on both sides – as a familiar sight.

    Since 2010, military-style leather jackets have become less common, overshadowed by the popularity of biker jackets. However, you’ll still frequently encounter a wide variety of designs: from jackets mimicking the motif, to reproductions, and even meticulously authentic recreations of the original specifications.

    To briefly explain the A-2 flight jacket, it was formally adopted by the US Army Air Corps in 1931 as a summer-season flight jacket. You might have a vague image of it from Steve McQueen wearing one in the film The Great Escape. Alongside the G-1 jacket, which similarly features a fur-lined collar, and the B-3, designed for extreme cold, it stands as one of the quintessential military-style leather items.

    As they were originally issued as genuine military wear, vintage examples circulating today are seldom plain. You’ll frequently encounter pieces adorned with rank insignia, patches, or back paintings (notably the famous blood chit). While highly appealing as vintage garments, they present a challenge to style for everyday wear. Their distinctive character makes them difficult to incorporate into contemporary fashion, likely appealing only to enthusiasts.

    A-2 REAL McCOY’S
    My favourite is the A-2 from REAL McCOY’S. This meticulous brand, passionate about American vintage clothing, revives various items for the modern era. They enhance quality while maintaining contemporary relevance by referencing the authentic construction of the period. Like the original, they use horsehide, but the leather quality is excellent, and the ribbing material and stitching are finished with great care.
    A-2 REAL McCOY’S
    The product tags are also researched to be authentic, so they appear natural. The quality and playful touch are such that even if the “Real McCoy” label were said to be from a contractor of the time (a supplier designated by the US military), one would not know.

    Introduction.

    I don’t often have occasion to wear a leather jacket (nowadays called a leather jacket), but occasionally I feel like putting one on. For those times, the A-2 flight jacket I’m introducing today is something I can easily pick up and throw on.

    The A-2 flight jacket I own is the REAL McCOY’S A-2 flight jacket. They have thoroughly researched the authentic A-2, enhancing the quality of the leather material, stitching, and rib detailing, whilst incorporating various refinements to ensure it remains comfortable to wear today. It’s an exceptionally fine piece that elevates the quality without compromising the original style and form of the A-2, which is why I wish to introduce it here.

    Whilst I mention it being easy to wear, in its new state, the horse leather is inherently very stiff and cannot be described as comfortable. The leather won’t soften until it’s been worn in sufficiently. It requires undergoing the ritual of new leather jackets – simply wearing it to mould to your body – before it becomes comfortable for regular wear. It’s an item where you can enjoy this process too.

    It doesn’t offer the same comfort as the Brunello Cucinelli piece featured in a previous article, but it embodies the fascination of leather goods: once it moulds to your body, it becomes surprisingly comfortable. While it lacks the lightness and softness of certain fabrics, there’s a distinct pleasure in wearing something that feels uniquely suited to you.


    The difficulty of wearing a leather jacket stylishly

    Whilst chatting with a mate about leather jackets, we got onto the topic of how military-style leather jackets were fairly common to wear, but once you hit your forties and your figure starts to go, wearing one just makes you look like an old bloke in a leather jacket, so you gradually stop wearing it.

    I can sort of see what he means. A junior colleague of mine adores his G-1 jacket. When I saw him recently, he was wearing it, but he no longer had the slim build of his youth. The jeans he paired it with didn’t quite fit his frame, and even his beloved JM Weston golf shoes looked a bit clumsy somehow. Apologies to my junior colleague, but he’d become the very embodiment of that “middle-aged bloke’s leather jacket” we’d discussed. He loves his G-1 and wears it often, but as he’s aged, it’s started to look a bit… well, middle-aged. He asked me if there was a way to wear it better. 

    Given this situation, I thought I might try wearing a military-style leather jacket again after a long time. So, I declared to the friend and junior colleague who’d brought up the topic that I wouldn’t become a “middle-aged bloke’s leather jacket”. Having made that declaration, I started thinking about what to wear. The G-1 and B-3 with their fur lining are warm, but the silhouette tends to puff out, making me worry I’d end up looking like an old man in a leather jacket too. An A-2, however, has a shorter length and doesn’t puff out as much around the chest, so I reckon the silhouette would look cleaner. That’s why the A-2 became a candidate.

    A-2 REAL McCOY’S

    I ponder what kind of A-2 to wear. Personally, I adore vintage clothing and hold a special respect for original items. Fake a had an original A-2, and when I saw it, it featured what you might call blood-chit painting. The vintage item’s value is incredibly high, but when asked if it would suit me? Well, it’s a bit iffy (I reckon I could pull it off reasonably well, but when I think about when and where I’d actually wear it, it gets knocked off the list. The piece itself is superb, so I suppose it might work for someone in the fashion industry involved with vintage, who’s regularly seen around the Harajuku area).

    Leaving Fake a and walking along Meiji-dori towards Shibuya, you’ll find REAL McCOY’S. I recall REAL McCOY’S being in Daikanyama nearly 25 years ago; I remember popping in once to look at their chinos. I had the impression they were quite active in reproducing vintage pieces, and I vaguely remembered them doing A-2 jackets, so I decided to pop in.

    I don’t recall the details of the REAL McCOY’S shop I visited 25 years ago, but it somehow had an American shop-like atmosphere. My past memories and the current shop’s ambience synced up, evoking a strangely nostalgic feeling.

    They also stock A-2 jackets, ranging from basic styles to special items like those dyed with persimmon tannin in a slightly lighter brown. Beyond the A-2, there are many other highly intriguing items like Buco’s rider jackets and thermal T-shirts. I’ll be taking a while to look at various items.

    I select a basic A-2 for fitting. The staff suggest sizes 40 or 38 might suit me best, advising that 40 would be ideal for layering in the depths of winter, while 38 would be better for avoiding bulkiness if worn without heavy layers. Here, I learn about the A-2’s origins for the first time – that it was the summer uniform of the US Army Air Corps. I’m also told this particular motif is from an early model.

    Given my build, the 38 would look sleeker, so I opted for that size. To complement the A-2, I also purchased Bearhead work boots and a thermal T-shirt to wear underneath.

    REAL McCOY’S has long specialised in vintage and military wear, with a passion for research, so their A-2 jackets are developed with meticulous attention to detail. The quality of their A-2s is, of course, excellent. As the staff mentioned, they’ve even reproduced the materials to minimise issues like moth damage to the ribbing, which is common in vintage A-2s. They also informed me that, while the probability is low, they offer repairs should moth damage occur.

    Size selection and combination are key

    I purchased an A-2 jacket from REAL McCOY’S. As I’m fond of jeans, I pair the A-2 with 501XX or 101Z jeans, along with the work boots I bought alongside the jacket, wearing a thermal T-shirt underneath. Even with this style, I don’t end up looking like the aforementioned middle-aged gentleman in a leather jacket. Let me consider why this is.

    The primary reason a leather jacket ends up looking like an old man’s, I believe, lies in the sizing and silhouette of the items worn with it. The A-2 fits me perfectly in shoulder width, body width, and overall length, creating a clean silhouette. The 501XX jeans I pair it with are also a perfect fit; the waist is 30 inches and the length is 32 inches, slightly longer, but I can wear them without rolling the hem when paired with work boots that have a heel. The 101Z is similar; the waist is 30 inches and the length is 33 inches, but I can wear it without turning up the hem.

    This time it’s the A-2, but the key points to avoid making a military-style leather jacket look like an “uncle’s leather jacket” are:

    • Pay attention to the sizing of both the A-2 and the bottoms you pair it with
    • Sizing: Choose items that fit your body as closely as possible to refine the overall silhouette.
    • Opt for slightly longer bottoms and shoes with heels to maximise the length effect.
    • Ideally, pair with boots for balanced proportions; dark brown complements the A-2 jacket well.
    • Inner layers must not protrude from the A-2 (as the jacket is fitted, longer inner layers disrupt the balance).

    The junior’s G-1 jacket looked like an old man’s leather jacket because the straight-leg jeans had an awkward length, revealing a bit of sock. The slightly oversized fit and subtle bulk also contributed. This could be resolved by choosing jeans that fit properly and are slightly longer. The jeans’ awkward length ruins the effect of the shoes.

    Furthermore, as the golf shirt is black, a dark brown G-1 would pair better with dark brown shoes for a more cohesive look. Regarding the crucial G-1 styling, fastening the zip all the way up also contributes to the dowdy appearance. It became clear that simply avoiding this – perhaps wearing a scarf or stole instead when cold – prevents it from looking like an old man’s leather jacket.

    When I wore my A-2 and subtly pointed out corrections to my junior’s style, he understood. Having shopped at Barneys in his youth, he has a reasonably high fashion sense and promptly adjusted his styling to avoid the “uncle” leather jacket look.

    The difficulty of wearing A-2 well

    For the past few years, I’ve mainly worn jeans and hardly any other trousers, so this year I’m aiming to incorporate more non-denim options. I’m actively wearing work trousers featured in a separate article, as well as the five-pocket cotton trousers mentioned in a previous post.

    The five-pocket cotton trousers are by Visvim. They feature a slim silhouette rather than the brand’s signature oversized look, and while the rise isn’t quite low-rise, it’s not the deep rise seen in many contemporary trousers. Visvim is a remarkable maison; their deep understanding of vintage clothing and fashion history makes their manufacturing process fascinating, incorporating traditional craft techniques and demonstrating strong social consciousness.

    As these Visvim five-pocket cotton trousers have a slimmer silhouette than the 501XX or 101 and are a light beige colour, I pair them with an A-2 jacket.

    The A-2 is a genuine military item, originally made for the armed forces, and is quite a rugged, masculine piece. Pairing this rugged, masculine item with military trousers looks cool, but soldiers have different physiques, and the average Japanese person won’t achieve the same look by imitating them.

    For the average Japanese build, a well-fitting straight-leg jean or slim-fit chino will provide a better, more balanced look.

    The challenge with the A-2 lies not in being fashionable or not, but in the inherent strength of its character (the image, not the item itself). Wearing an A-2 makes you become the person wearing the A-2. This might be difficult to articulate clearly, but perhaps it’s easier to understand by saying the A-2 takes precedence over the person wearing it.

    Even when wearing the A-2, a military item with such history and excellence, it requires a certain level of style sense to ensure you don’t become the A-2 wearing person, or an old man’s leather jacket.

    It has been three years since I purchased REAL McCOY’S A-2 jacket, and while I am writing this article based on my experience at that time, if I were to wear the A-2 this year, I would pair it with bottoms other than jeans, enjoying the A-2 in a manner similar to the examples shown.

    A-2 Style Guide

    This year, I’m considering wearing my iconic reissued leather items, such as the A-2, more often than usual. As I’m approaching my sixtieth birthday, I’m thinking of wearing them in a slightly more mature style. Within that, I find it interesting to choose footwear that diverges from the conventional theory. In the outfit example, I’ve paired Brunello Cucinelli suede penny loafers with John Lobb’s brown Barros. (The reason is simple: I forgot my boots or trainers for the shoot, so I wore the shoes I had to hand – and surprisingly, they worked well… but discovering this happy accident was fortunate.)

    Pairing them with Brunello Cucinelli’s suede penny loafers creates a look reminiscent of items exhibited at Pitti, embodying contemporary Italian fashion.

    Interestingly, pairing them with John Lobb’s U-tip Barros brings out the BCBG-esque elements inherent in the Barros’ historical image. Compared to the combination with the contemporary Italian-style suede loafers, this pairing creates a more grounded, formal atmosphere, enhancing the elegance – something I only realised after seeing the photos post-shoot.

    My John Lobb Barros were purchased in 2000, making them 25 years old. Yet, thanks to their robust construction and design, they remain in excellent condition. This truly demonstrates that a good pair of shoes can last a lifetime.

    It’s a simple style: just an A-2 jacket, matching trousers, a knit cap, and a stole. However, by pairing it with items that temper the A-2’s character, the jacket’s strong presence doesn’t dominate. This allows you to pull off the look without becoming the stereotypical “A-2 jacket wearer” I mentioned earlier.

    The significance of wearing a reissued A-2

    If you wish to wear refined leather items, another option is to choose motif pieces from today’s top maisons or Italian manufacturers exhibiting at Pitti. This style features a modernised original silhouette, designed to flatter anyone who wears it.

    While the designs are similar, the styling has been updated for contemporary wear, eliminating the stiff, difficult-to-wear quality of original horsehide. Most use calf or lamb leather, meaning they are soft and comfortable from the outset.

    However, the distinctive character and atmosphere of the original items are somewhat diminished, so I believe the choice should depend on personal preference and the occasion for wearing them.

    In my personal opinion, the reissued A-2, which is quite close to the authentic version, is in a sense akin to the current Levi’s 501 – one of the prototypes for the leather jackets now flooding the market. This shares a commonality with Levi’s 501 jeans: even amidst a sea of excellent jeans, the universal appeal of the 501 not only remains unchanged but often appears to shine even brighter. 

    This goes beyond mere fashion or style; it touches on a deeper sensibility. Wearing timeless, basic items effortlessly and stylishly is one choice, as is wearing trendy, fashionable clothes stylishly. The answer is simply to enjoy the style that suits you best.

    The former represents a kind of classic style; while it may experience some fluctuations in popularity, if asked which would likely still hold up ten years from now, I believe it would be the former style, built on timeless elements. The latter allows one to express a more contemporary edge, so if that’s the style one seeks, then choosing the latter is perfectly valid.

    I personally favour the former, yet when I wear pieces like Brunello Cucinelli or Dior (as seen in other articles), I feel the underlying power of fashionable clothing that follows trends. (The items themselves are basic pieces I prefer, avoiding overly trendy elements, but the styling is contemporary).

    Below are a few photos showing how it can be worn. I’m afraid I’m no model, so they may not be very helpful, but I hope they give you a sense of the style.


    Wearing example.

    A-2 REAL McCOY’S
    Wearing a knitted cap and stole softens the A-2 jacket’s character, creating a more refined style. Pairing it with slim-fit beige trousers and suede loafers lends a Pitti-esque, contemporary Italian feel. Though not readily apparent in the photograph, a Brunello Cucinelli Western shirt is tucked in underneath.
    A-2 REAL McCOY’S
    The flattering silhouette from behind is partly due to the A-2’s shorter length. While not quite as pronounced as the leather items from top fashion houses that are very much on-trend, it still creates a beautifully cohesive overall silhouette.
    A-2 REAL McCOY’S
    Simply swapping your shoes from suede loafers to John Lobb’s Barros, a full-grain leather U-tip, lends a sense of refined quality with a lower centre of gravity. This style brings to mind terms like BCBG and preppy, fashion trends from the 1980s, and I recalled a friend from my student days who used to pair his jeans with tassels.
    A-2 REAL McCOY’S
    These Barros shoes, purchased 25 years ago, boast a restrained design, excellent craftsmanship and robustness. Rather than a quality derived from design, one thinks of a quality born of the making itself. They are shoes that originally suited a slightly more formal look than casual trousers.
    A-2 REAL McCOY’S
    Originally a slightly lighter brown, years of care using cream cleaner and shoe polish (both by John Lobb) have given it a unique patina that I’ve grown very fond of.

    My intention was to introduce the A-2, but it has turned into a theme about how to wear military-style leather items. Whether it’s the A-2, G-1, or B-3, each has its own distinct characteristics and is a highly masculine piece – something men, myself included, tend to admire. Their strong individuality and the sheer number of imitations mean they can be surprisingly difficult to pull off.

    Though I didn’t try it this time, pairing slim-fit chinos without a centre crease with a non-oversized sweatshirt, layering an A-2 jacket over it, and finishing with sneakers like Converse can be quite enjoyable. This style evokes the look of Steve McQueen in The Great Escape. Admittedly a bit of a cheat, but pairing this sweatshirt with a cashmere knit imitating the design of Brunello Cucinelli or Loro Piana sweatshirts, and combining it with casual yet refined leather shoes like the John Lobb Barros worn this time, creates a sophisticated, high-quality look. I own a Brunello Cucinelli-style cashmere knit sweatshirt and would like to photograph it when the opportunity arises.


    Details.

    • Leather: Horsehide / Tannin-tanned, pigment finish
    • Lining: Cotton broadcloth
    • Front fastener: 40s bell-shaped, nickel-plated
    • Ribbing: Wool rib
    • Sewing thread: Cotton thread

    Combinations.

    • Leather jacket: REAL McCOY’S
    • Western shirt: Brunello Cucinelli
    • Cashmere stole: Brunello Cucinelli
    • Five-pocket cotton trousers: Visvim
    • Hat (grey): LEUCHTFEUE
    • Watch: Rolex Day Date (1803 1969)
    • Sunglasses: Oakley
    • Belt: Brunello Cucinelli
    • Shoes: Brunello Cucinelli Suede Penny Loafers
    • Shoes: John Lobb Barros 2998 Last

    Conclusion.

    Originally, I purchased this A-2 jacket after a friend asked for advice on styling military leather. It reaffirmed what a versatile and fascinating piece it is. While it’s essentially an item you can wear without much fuss, its widespread popularity and inherent image mean that attempting a stylish or sophisticated look suddenly makes it much trickier to pull off.

    For younger wearers, it’s an item that looks cool simply by wearing it as you please. However, for those wearing it later in life, it becomes an item that demands a bit of thought. Not just the A-2, but leather goods in general have a naturally rugged appearance. Their look and texture differ significantly from cotton or wool, and their strong character meant I didn’t wear them frequently either. A key discovery, however, was that simply changing the trousers slightly creates a much more cohesive look and makes it surprisingly easy to wear.
    Being a reissue of the original, the horsehide’s stiffness takes time to break in. I’ve patiently worn mine until the leather moulded to my form, but those in a hurry can expedite the process by wearing it constantly at home. For maintenance, simply apply Mustang Oil – renowned for horsehide – by hand all over, leave it briefly, then wipe it off.
    It requires more care than standard outerwear and isn’t as comfortable as other jackets, but once you appreciate the characteristic leather quality of moulding to your body, you develop a real affection for it.
    Men often harbour a desire to look cool in a rugged leather jacket, don’t they? The A-2 is a genuine military item, officially issued by the US Army, and inherently possesses more than enough rugged coolness. Wearing it while enjoying the challenge of controlling that image is surely the way to make the most of an A-2.


    Shop

    The A-2 flight jacket featured here was purchased from REAL McCOY’S Tokyo. REAL McCOY’S is renowned for reproducing military items and reviving Buco’s iconic rider jackets. Their meticulous research results in reproductions of such exceptional quality that they surpass the originals.

    While their focus is on American military reproductions, they also offer workwear and denim. They reproduce items that could be considered quintessential vintage American casual wear, with a common thread being that they take the most stylish era as their motif. They pay meticulous attention to detail, incorporating modern adjustments while carefully preserving the original atmosphere.

    Whatever you choose, the quality is exceptionally high. For fans of Americana or military style, it’s the ultimate shop, allowing you to wear vintage-inspired items in new condition – pieces that are often difficult to find as originals. They offer not just outerwear, but also T-shirts, shirts, boots, shoes, and denim. Every item in the shop is crafted with meticulous attention to detail, so you can look sharp wearing a full REAL McCOY’S outfit.

    Given the highly niche nature of the items, the staff possess extensive knowledge, making their insights into the history and characteristics of original pieces particularly valuable.

    Beyond the A-2 flight jacket featured here, I also own a Buco J-100 and work boots. My collection of accessories ranges from thermal T-shirts in comfortable, lightweight fabrics to heavier-weight thermals that closely replicate authentic materials.

    While I mainly purchase leather items, their reissued cotton outerwear like the N1 is also superb, and I’d love to wear it if the opportunity arises. Though the focus is on military and workwear, giving a casual yet distinctive image, the excellent material selection and craftsmanship mean it’s a fantastic shop offering pieces you can enjoy for years to come.

    Real McCoy’s official website

    “Real McCoy’s” Global shipping is not supported. Come to the shop when you come to Japan.

  • Brunello Cucinelli Corduroy Jacket

    Brunello Cucinelli Corduroy Jacket

    Brunello Cucinelli’s double-breasted blazer with metal buttons. The colour is black rather than navy, crafted from exceptionally soft corduroy. Featuring a one-and-a-half breast design, this unstructured formal jacket embodies Brunello Cucinelli’s signature double-breasted style. Its exquisite silhouette prevents excessive gaping even when unbuttoned. With minimal interlining for relaxed comfort, it excels as a versatile jacket suitable for both formal and casual occasions.

    This blazer reinterprets the American blazer style with Brunello Cucinelli’s signature playful yet refined design, allowing versatile styling. The core look pairs the black soft corduroy jacket with white trousers in the same soft corduroy, complemented by a Western shirt crafted from Brunello Cucinelli’s premium, soft cotton. For footwear, we favour suede penny loafers over sneakers for their soft comfort and easy wear. This embodies Brunello Cucinelli’s proposed world of relaxed yet refined, effortlessly playful style.

    While enjoying Brunello Cucinelli’s proposed set-ups as a base, when I wish to style things a little more casually, I pair them with vintage 501XX jeans or slim-fit beige cotton five-pocket trousers made from German corduroy fabric.

    Brunello Cucinelli Corduroy Jacket
    This blazer offers Brunello Cucinelli’s signature relaxed fit, designed for ease of movement and comfort, while maintaining a highly stylish appearance.
    Brunello Cucinelli Corduroy Jacket
    As it is a ready-made item, it comes with a tag for writing your name and the date of purchase. MTM items feature the purchaser’s name and the name of the artisan responsible for this piece.

    Introduction.

    The Brunello Cucinelli corduroy jacket featured here is a so-called blazer style featuring metal buttons. It was the first piece of Brunello Cucinelli clothing I ever purchased, and it was this jacket that inspired me to start pairing jackets with jeans – something I hadn’t done before. Consequently, I hold it in high regard.


    Smart casual

    About three years ago, I was asked to help out at a commemorative ceremony for the club I belonged to. The dress code for the ceremony was smart casual, but as I rarely wear suits these days, I didn’t own a recent one. I thought I’d attend in a suit I’d bought at Tie-Your-Tie twenty years prior. Amidst this, a plan suddenly arose to produce button-down shirts as promotional items and have members purchase them for charity.

    A friend asked me to handle the button-down shirt sales at the ceremony reception. For the sales role, I needed to wear one myself, and to serve as a display example, I required a blazer rather than a suit.

    Initially, I thought buying a navy blazer and grey trousers from Brooks Brothers would suffice. However, navy blazers had become quite trendy that year, and my size was sold out.Given this situation, I urgently began searching for a blazer, but struggled to find one that suited my taste.

    It was during this search for a suitable blazer that I discovered the corduroy jacket by Brunello Cucinelli featured here. The primary reason for choosing this jacket was that it perfectly matched the smart casual dress code for the commemorative ceremony of the club I was attending, and it would showcase the novelty button-down shirt in the best possible light.

    Personally, I adore the combination of a navy blazer and grey trousers. Though I rarely have occasion to wear it, a piece of advice from a stylish senior colleague in my youth has stayed with me: ‘A blazer is a rather interesting jacket. When worn by a young person, it lends a composed air and makes one appear more mature; when worn later in life, it makes one look younger. It’s a rather useful garment, so it’s good to own one.’

    Brunello Cucinelli

    This is a brand I’ve featured several times on this blog. Naturally, the quality of materials and craftsmanship is exceptional, but what truly impresses me is their approach beyond mere fashion – proposing a high-quality lifestyle based on clothing that transcends mere fashion. I adore their stance: while their garments possess a distinct presence, they maintain a restrained, understated style; their shop staff offer a friendly, approachable service; and they demonstrate an exceptionally high level of professionalism in styling and how the clothes are worn.

    The price point is considerably high, so it’s not something I personally purchase lightly. Another characteristic is that the price range naturally attracts a correspondingly older demographic. Despite the high price point, it is beloved worldwide and boasts many devoted repeat customers. This is Brunello Cucinelli. A phrase that came up in conversation with a staff member I know well perfectly encapsulates the brand’s stance, so I’ll share it here.

    Though extremely expensive and a renowned brand, Mr Brunello Cucinelli – who frequently appears in press to shape the brand image – is just an ordinary chap. His style or looks aren’t particularly striking, His remarkable social activism and the dignity encompassing his lifestyle, coupled with the fact that even as he ages and no longer possesses the physique of his youth, he remains an exemplar of wearing clothes elegantly and stylishly, perfectly encapsulates the essence of Brunello Cucinelli’s garments.

    It’s not merely about being high-quality clothing that an ordinary chap can wear. Even when worn by someone with great style, it remains stylish yet somehow restrained, exuding dignity and intelligence.

    This very dignity and intellect are the essence of Brunello Cucinelli. Ultimately, it is clothing that expresses the wearer’s identity and maximises that identity. When worn by the young, it conveys fresh youthfulness and coolness; when worn by those of a certain age, it expresses the dignity and intellect born of life experience.

    Clothing, one of the three fundamental elements of human life alongside food and shelter, is something one must wear to live. Reading deeper, this clothing also serves to define the individual’s existence within society.

    The apparel industry, a colossal sector, could be said to be fiercely competing over how to express this individual existence within society. However, in the internet age, attitudes towards clothing have shifted. Certain words and keywords have become paramount, and traditions built over many years, the optimal solutions for clothing, and even individuality itself, are now consumed as short-lived trends.

    Brunello Cucinelli stands as the brand furthest removed from these fleeting trends. Its premium pricing stems from the finest materials and the quality crafted by Italy’s most skilled artisans. It embodies a commitment to human dignity, ensuring fair returns for all workers and stakeholders. It demonstrates social responsibility and purpose by revitalising its declining hometown village, wishing happiness for all involved. It extends the same treatment to its sales staff in distant Japan. and by staffing each store with personnel possessing skills equivalent to Italian artisans, providing high-level care for sold garments. This practice encourages customers to cherish and use their fine purchases for a long time.

    All this takes considerable time. This creates a temporal flow distinct from the current one, an elegant passage of time that becomes more palpable the deeper one understands Brunello Cucinelli’s garments.

    By persistently creating intrinsic value rather than superficial, easily visible or audible values, the company elevates both its own worth and that of the products it handles. This establishes Brunello Cucinelli as an established enterprise with a distinct creative ethos, differing from contemporary mass-market and marketing values. Its garments embody quality and fashionability while remaining understated, yet are meticulously designed to enhance the wearer’s individuality. One can also sense a unified philosophy stemming from the production process and underlying concept.

    This may sound somewhat formal, but I personally hold Brunello Cucinelli in high regard for its overall corporate stance. This is why I am such a great fan of Brunello Cucinelli and why I consider it worth making a little extra effort to wear their garments.

    Brunello Cucinelli’s style

    Whilst I have previously featured Brunello Cucinelli’s spring/summer items on this blog, I had yet to showcase their autumn/winter pieces. Although I introduced jackets in the spring/summer styles, I did not own any trousers, so this time I am presenting a style where the jacket and trousers are worn as a set.

    When considering Brunello Cucinelli’s product range, their cashmere knitwear immediately springs to mind. I own several pieces myself; the quality is exceptionally high. Being lightweight and warm is a given, but their remarkable durability is particularly noteworthy. This durability becomes apparent when wearing them in the car with a seatbelt fastened. Other cashmere knits inevitably develop pilling where the seatbelt presses against the fabric. After wearing them, meticulous care with a stone brush is required to remove this pilling.

    Brunello Cucinelli’s cashmere knitwear possesses a durability that resists pilling in these seatbelt-contact areas far better than other cashmere knits. While the exact reason for this resistance to pilling is unclear, it is likely due to techniques such as the twisting of the yarn. One might understand this if the cashmere knit were slightly stiffer, but Brunello Cucinelli’s cashmere knit is soft yet possesses this durability that resists pilling.

    The brand also offers suits and coats crafted from cashmere and premium wool, all featuring exceptionally high-level tailoring. Depending on your preferred pattern and intended occasion, you can select the fabric pattern, thickness, and whether to wear it as a set or individually. Each piece delivers a high-quality, comfortable, and stylish look.

    For autumn/winter seasons, Brunello Cucinelli frequently employs corduroy, offering several styles where both top and bottom are coordinated in corduroy. The hallmark of Brunello Cucinelli’s corduroy is its exceptionally soft and lightweight fabric; wearing it with the typical expectations of corduroy, one is surprised by its remarkable comfort.

    Brunello Cucinelli also pays particular attention to the colours of his garments, drawing inspiration from the natural world for his colour palettes. The black corduroy I purchased is a distinctive shade of black from Brunello Cucinelli; you won’t find another black jacket quite like it.

    While dark navy is the standard for blazers, pairing this one with matching trousers in a similar fabric creates a black-and-white ensemble that avoids excessive formality, achieving a relaxed yet polished style. Shooting by the sea made me realise it also lends itself to a nautical aesthetic.

    I’ve paired this suit with a suitably faded Brunello Cucinelli Western shirt. This Western shirt isn’t made from denim fabric either; like a regular shirt, it’s crafted from a slightly thicker, exceptionally soft cotton twill fabric. Looking at photos of myself wearing this combination, it feels entirely natural. While one wouldn’t typically pair a black jacket with a blue shirt, this combination is remarkably cohesive and refined.

    Thus, even before considering my own personal opinion, the style proposed by Brunello Cucinelli is exceptionally refined. The tolerance of each individual item to be combined in any manner means that even when building a collection of Brunello Cucinelli garments, there are no pieces that become unwearable. This, I believe, is precisely why the brand enjoys such a devoted following of repeat customers.

    How to wear Brunello Cucinelli

    As I favour vintage and Americana-style casual wear, I often combine Brunello Cucinelli pieces with my everyday vintage items. For slightly less formal occasions, this style suits me perfectly.My approach to clothing involves considering where and with whom I’ll be meeting. For instance, I wouldn’t wear the Brunello Cucinelli pieces featured here for a stroll around the neighbourhood (it would be a bit too much, frankly).

    While Brunello Cucinelli is often called resort wear, in Japan, few people have a resort lifestyle like wealthy foreigners. Most wear it as urban attire, wouldn’t you agree?

    For slightly formal occasions where a playful touch is acceptable – ceremonies, parties, or slightly upmarket dining – I adopt the style proposed by Brunello Cucinelli as mentioned above. (Such occasions are infrequent in daily life, so I do feel a touch self-conscious.)

    For slightly more casual outings—such as shopping or a relaxed meal with my wife in bustling areas like Ginza or Omotesando—I won’t wear head-to-toe Brunello Cucinelli. Instead, I’ll pair the bottom with jeans like Levi’s or different innerwear. Brunello Cucinelli garments possess a remarkable tolerance that allows them to maintain their composure even in such relaxed combinations.

    Below are a few photos showing how it can be worn. I’m afraid I’m no model, so they may not be very helpful, but I hope they give you a sense of the style.


    Wearing example.

    [ How to Wear Brunello Cucinelli Corduroy Jacket ]

    The photos in this article were not taken well, so they have been re-shot in part 2.

    Brunello Cucinelli Corduroy Jacket
    While not made-to-measure, the fit in the finer details is not perfect; however, even off the rack, the style is clean and the ease of movement is a characteristic feature of Brunello Cucinelli garments in general. In this style of wear, all buttons are fastened.
    Brunello Cucinelli Corduroy Jacket
    This 1950s corduroy shirt with its intriguing pattern is paired with a cashmere knit beanie in the same colour. While 1950s corduroy shirts were mass-produced items fundamentally different in concept from Brunello Cucinelli, they somehow blend together beautifully. This combination of black and white monochrome with a red-based patterned piece creates a surprisingly harmonious colour scheme. The fact that all the items worn are corduroy may also be a key factor in achieving such cohesion.
    Brunello Cucinelli Corduroy Jacket
    The shirt and jeans, aside from the jacket, are vintage pieces from the 1950s, yet they come together rather well. Exposing the large loop-button collar, characteristic of 1950s shirts, lends a rock-inspired feel (the base image being 1950s rock musicians like Elvis Presley). The overall look is also reminiscent of 1980s fashion inspired by the 1950s.
    Brunello Cucinelli Corduroy Jacket
    Whilst difficult to convey in photographs, this exceptionally soft corduroy offers a gentle appearance and a soft feel, making it remarkably easy to move in whilst providing warmth.
    Brunello Cucinelli Corduroy Jacket
    I’ve only changed the bottoms, but they pair well with items like Levi’s 501XX jeans. As they aren’t overly assertive, they create a very easy-to-wear style.
    Brunello Cucinelli Corduroy Jacket
    Paired with German Coats’ slim-fit cotton five-pocket trousers. This style evokes a 1960s Ivy League look, offering a slightly more refined combination than jeans. Tucking in the shirt creates a neater finish; as the shirt is a casual item, this pairs more naturally than with trousers, making it an easy everyday style.
    Brunello Cucinelli Corduroy Jacket
    Brunello Cucinelli shirts are of such fine quality that they retain their elegance even when worn casually. They offer a truly luxurious experience as high-quality everyday wear. Whilst similar in design to other Western shirts I own, they are entirely distinct – casual yet devoid of the rough elements found in vintage or Americana styles.

    Details.

    • Metal six-button closure
    • Peaked lapel
    • Slit pocket
    • Ticket pocket and chest pocket
    • Cuffs with true buttonholes and four metal buttons
    • Cupro lining throughout
    • Two buttoned inner pockets and pen pocket
    • Side vents at back Drop 7
    • 100% cotton

    Combinations.


    Conclusion.

    The corduroy jacket introduced here became the catalyst for me wearing Brunello Cucinelli garments. This jacket served as a turning point, prompting me to rethink my previous approach to clothing.

    It was the first time I had not only gone through the standard process of buying and wearing clothes, but also considered and resonated with the philosophy and ideas behind them. While I’d had a few intuitive understandings when wearing other brands in the past, Brunello Cucinelli was the first where I consciously thought about the reasons and felt convinced. This feeling stems more from the comfort and ease of movement than the styling, and is largely due to the high-quality materials and excellent craftsmanship.

    Brunello Cucinelli’s stance – where the creators, without sparing effort or expense, prioritise the customer who will wear the product, yet deliberately refrain from flaunting this act, leaving evaluation to the product and service itself – embodies the truth of the once-trendy term “hospitality=Omote-Nashi”. I feel this philosophy is the very embodiment of true luxury.


    Shop

    My Brunello Cucinelli items are purchased at the Brunello Cucinelli Ginza store.
    As I mentioned in my article on field jackets, it is a wonderful store not only for its products and stores, but also for the people involved.
    For more information about the store, please refer to article on Field Jacket.

    [ Brunello Cucinelli Field Jacket’s Article]

    Brunello Cucinelli official website

  • Wrangler Western Shirt (New Air Vintage)

    Wrangler Western Shirt (New Air Vintage)

    This is a Western-style denim shirt from Wrangler, a brand that began as a Western wear label. Wrangler’s Western shirts are iconic pieces of men’s fashion, frequently featured in Western films and favoured by Steve McQueen.

    The Wrangler Western shirt featured here was sourced from the United States by New Air Vintage, a renowned vintage clothing shop in Osaka (though the shop itself is no longer operating, its owner is reportedly still active as a buyer). It has been tastefully repaired.

    Wrangler Western Shirt (New Air Vintage)
    This is a Wrangler Western shirt repaired by New Air Vintage in Osaka.
    Wrangler Western Shirt (New Air Vintage)
    The patchwork fabric used for the patches also makes clever use of fabric from old clothes.

    Introduction.

    I’ve always adored vintage clothing and the style commonly referred to as Americana. In my mid-twenties, I favoured a slightly roughened take on American Traditional (often called Americana). I’d pair blue button-down shirts, Oxford shirts, denim shirts, and the faded Western shirts featured here with crisp chinos and sneakers like Adidas Stan Smiths. It wasn’t strictly orthodox. I drifted away from this style for a while, but recently the urge to wear it again has struck, and I’m hunting for various items. 

    Back then, my favourite was TUBE, designed by Hisao Saito. It took American traditional as its starting point, building clothes through sophisticated combinations. They had a shop in Shibuya’s PARCO, and the staff were exceptionally kind—spending ample time helping me choose even a single shirt was a major reason I grew fond of the brand.

    The Wrangler Western shirt featured here is one repaired by New Air Vintage, experts in American vintage, using their unique sensibility. It perfectly matched my taste, so I bought it and wear it frequently.

    The Dickies painter’s trousers worn with it this time, and the painter’s trousers paired with the Dior denim shirt last time, are also New Air Vintage repair pieces. I similarly own Carhartt work trousers and an M65 jacket that have undergone their repair work.


    Western-style shirt

    My image of a Western shirt is that of an American dad. For my generation, it evokes the archetypal father figure from 20th-century American home dramas and films – someone in his late thirties to forties, grilling at barbecues or playing catch with his kids. They typically have a more robust build than the average Japanese man, wearing Western shirts casually. The fading isn’t fashion-conscious, but rather a lived-in patina from regular washing in a tumble dryer – a sense of wear and tear born of daily life. It’s an item that embodies a paternal quality, worn as an everyday staple.

    Steve McQueen embodied the American hero and tough guy, yet remained somehow universal and real. While not quite the same, there exists a certain archetype of masculinity that every American man possesses, and the Western shirt is the image of the shirt such a McQueen-like man would naturally wear.

    Made from denim fabric, the new colour is navy blue, but as it is worn and washed, the colour naturally fades, turning into what is commonly called a light blue.

    I suppose I’m something of a blue jeans enthusiast myself, having largely stopped wearing casual trousers other than jeans. Western shirts pair well with jeans (being a cowboy uniform, that’s only natural), and when I wear them casually, I often create contrast by varying the degree of fading between top and bottom, avoiding a full matching set. It’s an interesting anecdote that Wrangler is the originator of the term “jeans”.

    This year, I’ve developed something of a personal craze for wearing Western shirts. What’s different from before is that I’m now wearing them more often with khaki bottoms like work trousers or chinos, rather than blue jeans.

    The appeal of denim Western shirts lies in their effortless wearability, requiring little thought about fashion. In my case, many are vintage pieces or originals that have faded over time, so I simply wash them without much fuss.

    I don’t bother with ironing; much like a freshly washed button-down shirt, I just give the collar, cuffs, and front placket a good stretch before hanging them to dry, then wear them straight away.

    The sizing of Western shirts

    The Western shirt I wear isn’t one of those currently fashionable oversized styles with dropped shoulders, nor is it a slim-fit, just-right size with an Italian flavour like those exhibited at Pitti. Instead, I wear a classic style with shoulders that are almost true to size (though perhaps 1-2 centimetres larger by modern standards) and a slightly wider body.

    Originally a masculine garment originating from American sartorial history, it offers a comfortable fit even with a shoulder width that’s just right, thanks to its relatively generous body width. This makes it an extremely versatile piece, suitable for wearing either as an inner layer or as an outer garment.

    New Air Vintage

    Originally, having run a vintage clothing shop, possess an almost obsessive knowledge of vintage garments. For repairs, I use fabric from unwearable vintage pieces as a base, creating a patchwork effect that transcends mere mending to become a distinct style.
    Over the last decade or so, vintage items have been re-evaluated, and it’s certainly positive that quality pieces are now circulating in the market. However, the downside is that prices have become excessively inflated, meaning some items are no longer suitable for everyday wear.

    The vintage garments repaired by New Air Vintage are reasonably priced and require no special care, such as delicate washing, making them ideal for everyday wear – a definite plus.

    However, as it’s a small operation, the selection is limited and sizes aren’t particularly varied, so finding something you can actually wear might prove challenging.

    I discovered New Air Vintage’s vintage clothing through Post78, a shop frequently featured on my blog. The owner possesses excellent taste; occasionally popping into the shop reveals many pieces that appear ordinary at first glance yet are cleverly crafted items that make fashion connoisseurs sigh with admiration. With a core price range that isn’t excessively high and many items suitable for everyday wear, it’s an indispensable shop for my passion for dressing.


    Wearing example.

    Wrangler Western Shirt (New Air Vintage)
    I’m pairing them with Dickies painter trousers.
    Wrangler Western Shirt (New Air Vintage)
    Whilst not a design-focused product, the silhouette from behind is also sharply tailored.

    Details.

    • 100% cotton
    • Denim – approximately 7 ounces
    • Shoulder yoke
    • Snap fasteners
    • Flap pockets on both chest

    Combinations.

    • Western shirt: Wrangler (New Air Vintage)
    • T-shirt, green: Dolce & Gabbana
    • Painter’s trousers: Dickies (New Air Vintage)
    • Hat: LEUCHTFEUE
    • Watch: IWC Mark11 RAF
    • Sunglasses: Oakley
    • Belt: The Real McCoy’s
    • Shoes: Visvim

    Conclusion.

    This time we introduced Wrangler’s Western shirt. Characterised by its shoulder yoke, double chest flap pockets, and snap buttons, it’s instantly recognisable as a Western shirt when worn. Yet it’s such a universal piece that you can wear it much like a button-down shirt. The denim fabric, around 7oz, is neither too thick nor too thin – thicker than a twill shirt, yet softens beautifully with wear, making it exceptionally comfortable.

    Pairing a Western shirt with khaki trousers might not strictly fall under the American Trad category. As it’s a garment with deep roots in America, and considering colour schemes, the combination of a blue top with khaki bottoms represents my personal image of American Trad – hence my deliberate use of that term.

    Fashion categorisation is rather arbitrary, and genres often seem to be more about the terminology than anything else. I reckon the key to enjoying it most is simply wearing what you like without worrying too much about labels.


    Shop

    The M47 Field Jacket introduced this time was purchased at Post78.
    Post78 is a shop that handles a lot of high quality, long-lasting items that the owner, who loves clothes, is particular about. I also enjoy talking about fashion with the owner, who loves clothes, when I shop.

    Post78

    “Post78” Global shipping is not supported. Come to the shop when you come to Japan.

  • Dior Over Shirt (Black Denim)

    Dior Over Shirt (Black Denim)

    A vintage-washed denim shirt crafted from a substantial 13.5-ounce fabric. Featuring Dior’s signature clean, straight-cut lines, it offers an impeccably flattering silhouette when worn.

    Dior Over Shirt (Black Denim)
    Dior Over Shirt (Black Denim) Vintage-processed black denim shirt
    Dior Over Shirt (Black Denim)
    Dior Over Shirt (Black Denim) Leather patch featuring the Dior logo

    Introduction.

    Twenty years ago, I purchased and cherished shirts and knitwear from the Edie Slimane era of Dior Homme at Barneys New York. However, as I grew older, I wore them less frequently and eventually passed them on to a younger colleague. After that, I had no further connection with Dior items until recently, when I purchased a piece for the first time in two decades and have been wearing it often.

    This time I’m introducing a denim shirt, though I’ve also bought a pea coat and slim jeans, which I’ll cover in a separate article. I’d wondered why Dior resonated so well with my current style, and actually wearing it has impressed me: the superb craftsmanship is a given, but it’s because Dior is a top maison that has firmly established its own unique style.

    Speaking of Dior, its devoted wearer was Karl Lagerfeld, the Emperor of Fashion. A key insight gained was understanding why Lagerfeld – approaching his sixties and a fashion industry heavyweight – favoured Dior under the then-unknown Edie Slimane. Wearing it myself now, nearing sixty, has brought clarity to that choice. (This remains purely my personal view and speculation.)


    Dior Homme

    From the mid-1990s to the early 2000s, the reconstruction of iconic brands from the past became a major trend. Starting with Tom Ford at Gucci and Marc Jacobs at Louis Vuitton, new brands like Dolce & Gabbana and Jil Sander, rooted in tailoring yet introducing fresh values to fashion, began gaining recognition. Men’s fashion shifted from its previous emphasis on formality and tradition, incorporating playful and showy elements, transforming into a societal trend.

    Amidst this, Dior, which had not previously developed a menswear line, brought in Hedi Slimane to launch one. At the time, John Galliano was creating a highly structured and flamboyant world for the womenswear, so the fashion industry watched closely to see what Dior’s menswear line would become.

    A new line, Dior Homme, was created and collections were presented. Hedi Slimane’s minimalist worldview, stripped of all excess, was shocking. The core palette was black, grey, and navy, with styles defined by extremely slim, linear lines devoid of excess. The silhouette could be described simply as constructing elongated rectangular lines. This approach stood in stark contrast to other brands, which utilised new materials and tailoring techniques to construct three-dimensional body lines (such as inverted triangular silhouettes with defined waists).

    Edie Slimane’s Dior sent shockwaves through the fashion industry. One of its defining moments was when Karl Lagerfeld, designer for Chanel and Fendi and often dubbed the Emperor of Fashion, began appearing in public constantly wearing Dior Homme suits as if they were his uniform.

    The fact that the fashion emperor undertook a weight loss of 40kg to wear Dior Homme’s tailored suits was a shocking event, demonstrating the immense impact of the brand that even the fashion emperor was willing to undergo physical transformation to wear.

    The Dior Homme items I purchased at the time were recommended and bought at Barneys, which I frequented often. However, as they were mostly shirts and knitwear, and the outerwear or denim that would later become iconic pieces felt too slim for my sensibilities at the time, I did not buy them.

    My impression of Dior Homme at the time was that its tight, linear lines were avant-garde, creating minimalist garments with a very sharp, fashion-conscious edge. Based on my sensibilities then, I found them stylish but somewhat tedious to wear, and they weren’t the kind of clothes I would consider wearing regularly.

    As my impression of Dior’s clothes remained unchanged, I never contemplated wearing Dior garments myself.

    Wearing Dior beyond the age of sixty?

    Amidst changes in my living situation, I hadn’t bought any clothes for quite some time. When I finally decided to buy something after a long while, I discussed fashion with a junior colleague. It was then that she remarked,
    ‘Wouldn’t it be splendid to wear Dior clothes effortlessly at sixty?’
    The conversation then turned to anecdotes about Karl Lagerfeld.

    Given my current preferences, I had no interest whatsoever in high-end brands like Dior (I’m not particularly fond of that term; “top maison” feels more fitting if one wishes to express respect), so I hadn’t checked them out. However, after browsing their website, I’ve become curious about their current direction.

    It’s clear they’re maintaining the early Dior Homme aesthetic while offering timeless pieces of high quality. Among these, the denim shirt I’m introducing today particularly caught my eye.

    I’ll cover this in a separate article, but alongside the denim shirt, I’ve also purchased a pea coat and a pair of slim-fit black jeans.

    Dior overshirt

    The image of Dior Homme mentioned at the outset remains firmly intact. While incorporating some current trends, the style hasn’t changed much from the past, retaining its linear and minimalist aesthetic. As a vintage-processed black denim shirt, it pairs exceptionally well with chinos, work trousers, and even classic denim like 501s.

    Nowadays, vintage effects can be achieved using lasers, and the denim shirt featured here has undergone such laser-applied vintage treatment. The sizing is slightly oversized to incorporate current trends. For a deliberately loose, trend-conscious look, choose your usual size. If you prefer a slightly tighter fit, opting for one size down will provide a more tailored feel.

    I usually wear a size 46 as standard, but for this Dior overshirt I’ve chosen a size 44.

    Dior suggests wearing it as a set with matching double-knee denim work trousers, but I prefer pairing it with khaki or beige cotton trousers without creases rather than as a set.

    For this shoot, I’ve worn it with faded brown Dickies work trousers that have been repaired.

    I’ve always adored denim shirts and rotate five of them. As they’re all indigo, this black denim shirt I’ve acquired will prove invaluable.

    In the depths of winter, I layer a knit underneath; if it’s still cold, I add a down vest. It’s a brilliant piece that can be worn all year round except the height of summer. I’d love to photograph a winter style again when the opportunity arises.

    Though shaped like a denim shirt, its heavier weight makes it closer to a denim jacket than a shirt, leading to more frequent use as outerwear. At first glance, it appears to be a standard thick denim shirt, yet its construction showcases the quality expected of a top maison like Dior. The three-dimensional finish creates a pleasingly different impression when worn compared to how it looks on the hanger in-store.

    This superb denim shirt looks stylish whether buttoned up or worn casually unbuttoned.


    Wearing example.

    Dior Over Shirt (Black Denim)
    I’m pairing them with Dickies painter trousers.
    Dior Over Shirt (Black Denim)
    The silhouette from behind is also sharply defined, with the waist slightly cinched.
    Dior Over Shirt (Black Denim)
    Fastening the front buttons to wear it as a shirt creates a flattering silhouette, with a contemporary shorter length.
    Dior Over Shirt (Black Denim)
    It pairs well with items such as Levi’s 501 jeans.

    Details.

    • 100% cotton
    • Heavyweight denim – 13.5 oz
    • Laser fade finish
    • Vintage finish

    Combinations.

    • Denim shirt: Dior
    • T-shirt, green: Dolce & Gabbana
    • T-shirt, orange: Burberry Prorsum
    • Painter’s trousers: Dickies (New Air Vintage)
    • Denim: Levi’s Vintage Collection 1947 One Wash
    • Hat: LEUCHTFEUE
    • Watch: IWC Mark11 RAF
    • Sunglasses: Oakley
    • Belt: The Real McCoy’s
    • Shoes: Visvim

    Conclusion.

    This Dior denim shirt was purchased after hearing about how one might elegantly wear Dior upon reaching one’s sixtieth birthday. Rather than the fashion-forward styling one might associate with Dior’s image, I wear it with the same casual ease as my everyday vintage denim shirts. Thanks to Dior’s superb design and style, pairing it with heavily patched work trousers still yields a remarkably fashionable and interesting look.

    As for why Karl Lagerfeld favoured Hedi Slimane’s Dior, the men’s line stemming from Dior Homme shares a common thread of street fashion elements. However, Slimane’s interpretation of streetwear leans less towards a macho aesthetic and more towards an introspective quality, evoking a certain delicacy and fragility.

    This slenderness and fragility are not meant negatively; adolescent or youthful males invariably possess this quality. This image of slenderness links to the slim, elongated rectangular silhouette. While this image and style represent adolescent boys and youth, one could consider that Karl Lagerfeld sought this youthfulness (as inspiration). Reading deeper, I suspect he perceived eternal youth in Dior’s garments.

    This is purely my personal view, but as someone approaching sixty who has worn Dior, I sensed a somewhat boyish, introspective, adolescent quality. This leads me to feel that perhaps, by wearing Dior, Karl Lagerfeld attained a kind of eternal youth in a spiritual sense.


    Shop

    The denim shirt featured here was purchased at House of Dior Ginza, located within Ginza SIX. On this occasion, I was shown the item beforehand and returned later to make the purchase. Having booked an appointment with the intention to buy, I was shown into an available private fitting room, allowing for a leisurely shopping experience.

    When I conveyed my interest in certain items to the sales assistant, they brought not only the discussed pieces but also other versatile options, allowing me to visualise how they might be worn while selecting.

    The assistant was exceptionally kind and, having extensive experience in fashion, provided spot-on styling advice. We also enjoyed pleasant, fashion-related conversation, making it a thoroughly satisfying shopping experience.

    The store is spacious, offering both men’s and women’s collections, with a comprehensive range of bags and accessories. Why not pop in with your wife on a day off?

    Dior Official Website