Hooked-on

Blog

  • Berluti Galet Cursive Slippers : the long-loved ones.

    Berluti Galet Cursive Slippers : the long-loved ones.

    A close junior colleague and friend had an important celebration, so I gifted them a pair of Berluti shoes, which they adore.

    This junior colleague had previously received a pair of my Berluti shoes as a gift, and they have truly treasured and worn those two pairs with great care. When I passed them on, Berluti’s handling of the customer registration change was also superb, leaving me deeply impressed and prompting me to write about it. This very impression of Berluti’s service was also the catalyst for starting this blog media.

    [ Berluti Alessandro’s Article ]

    This time, the handling of gifts for juniors and friends was also exceptionally splendid, hence I am writing about it.

    Berluti Galet Cursive Slippers
    The Galet Cursive Slippers I gifted to my junior colleague this time. Their playful design, quintessentially Berluti, appears rather flashy at first glance. Yet when worn, it’s the sophistication rather than the flashiness that truly stands out – a testament to this Parisian institution. The beauty of the patina, with its subtle gradient, embodies a unique aesthetic achievable only by Berluti. Though they are shoes, they evoke the impression of European antique furniture, rich and substantial. They also bring to mind an old dictionary with its leather cover inscribed with letters, or a map crafted from leather from the Age of Exploration.
    Berluti Galet Cursive Slippers
    These slip-on loafers are luxuriously crafted from a single piece of leather, yet the playful touch of incorporating calligraphic script is exceptionally refined. This worldview, which elevates such playfulness into something elegant and sophisticated, represents an aesthetic sensibility unique to Berluti – a brand renowned among the world’s most prestigious footwear for its beautiful patina.

    Introduction.

    About 20 years ago, I was fond of Berluti shoes, but as I stopped wearing suits on a daily basis and had fewer opportunities to wear dress shoes, I found that Berluti shoes were a little too smart for my current casual style, so I gave them to a junior colleague. My junior colleague grew very fond of the Berluti shoes, wears them more often than I did, and takes meticulous care of them. A friend who accompanied us is fond of Andy shoes, finished in a light tobacco colour with a hint of green patina, and always wears them when he wants to look a little smart.

    As both my friend and junior colleague had something to celebrate, I wanted to give them a present, so I took the plunge and gave them a pair of Berluti shoes, which they both love.

    As I mentioned in my previous article, good leather shoes are for life and can be worn for a very long time. However, if the manufacturer does not have a maintenance system in place, even shoes that can be worn for a long time cannot be worn in their original form.

    Japanese shoemakers are excellent and can handle repairs and maintenance, but it is difficult for them to match the manufacturer’s expertise in materials and processes. Furthermore, Berluti uses a unique patina finish, which I believe would be extremely difficult even for the finest Japanese shoemakers to replicate. (Including sourcing materials and paints, plus the application technique) 

    Berluti meticulously retains customer records from purchases made 20 years ago. They ensure continuity by passing these records to successors, accommodating requests for changes to customer details and maintaining a system to continue providing servicing.

    While the purchase price is high, the shoes are not only visually striking but also uniquely artistic in their construction. When considering shoes that perfectly complement any fashion, from formal to casual, Berluti possesses the world’s finest beauty. Crafted from exceptionally luxurious materials and superbly made, they mould to the foot and grow more cherished with wear. Considering the enduring pleasure this excellence provides, the price is by no means excessive.

    Companies offering such an experience are rare in modern society, not just in fashion. Berluti is a truly exceptional brand that genuinely values its rare clientele.

    American Express Luxury Shopping

    I have been an American Express enthusiast for 25 years, utilising four different Amex cards for both personal and professional purposes. Cards at Platinum level and above include a Luxury Shopping service, which provides a private space where dedicated staff attend to your shopping needs without concern for other customers.

    Berluti participates in this luxury service, so I decided to try it for the first time. As the gift is a pair of shoes requiring in-person selection and sizing, I requested this service hoping to treat a friend and junior colleague celebrating an occasion, starting with choosing the shoes.

    The dedicated American Express staff were exceptionally courteous. After conveying my requirements, they arranged the appointment with Berluti on my behalf. I was given the appointment time and the name of the Berluti staff member assigned to me. For good measure, the details were also emailed to me. On the day, I simply mentioned the assigned staff member’s name at the shop reception and was escorted to the dedicated space.

    Berluti has also established a system to handle this reservation under any circumstances. The staff assigned will be proficient in languages to accommodate foreign customers with gentle manners, supported by a manager thoroughly familiar with Berluti.

    Choose between the standard Andy or Galet

    Upon entering the shop, we were informed that the private room used for luxury shopping was occupied for exhibition preparations, so a sofa and table had been set up in the very back space of the store.
    We were shown to the sofa, asked for our drink preferences, our requested beverages were prepared, and a dedicated staff member listened to our purchase preferences before bringing the relevant items.
    My junior colleague is considering either the black Andy he didn’t have, or the black or tobacco-coloured Galet. Berluti’s Andy is an icon not just for Berluti but for gentlemen’s footwear. My junior colleague and I often discuss it, and we both agree the Andy is the world’s most beautiful loafer.
    However, being quite the dandy, my junior colleague is also interested in Berluti’s Calligraphie. His excellent taste sees through the design’s essence: the Calligraphie isn’t as flashy as it appears in photos; when actually worn, it blends in naturally.
    While my preference for shape and aesthetic lies with the Andy, the Galet in tobacco colour – crafted luxuriously from a single piece of leather, finished with a beautiful curve and patina gradient, and featuring the Caligraphie design placed exquisitely – is his true favourite.

    The junior staff member will prepare three types – Black Andy, Black, and Garé Carcassonne with tobacco – in three sizes each for comparison. (9 pairs) Whilst shops typically dislike such a selection process, Berluti instead encourages customers to take their time choosing a pair they genuinely prefer and that fits perfectly. They assist by having customers try on multiple pairs and sharing their impressions to find the ideal pair.

    Andy Demjoure Neo Flex Loafer

    A friend who adores Andy regularly rotates several pairs of Loro Piana loafers with white soles in different colours for everyday wear. He’s quite fond of them, having already had the soles replaced on two pairs.

    friend who accompanied me isn’t as particular about fashion, but comfortable shoes are a must, and slip-ons are a requirement rather than lace-ups. He initially considered loafers with rubber soles, which Berluti has also recently launched.

    At that point, the manager suggested, ‘If that’s the kind of requirement you have, how about the Andy Demjoure Neo Flex loafers?’ The Neo Flex loafers have leather soles that can be replaced, and the suede is extremely soft, moulding to Andy’s form, so he decided to try them on.

    My friend’s customer list contained the size of the Andy loafers he had purchased. Being quite tall with large feet, the Ginza store had no stock. The manager kindly checked availability at other branches.Upon checking, it was found that the Nihonbashi branch had stock. What surprised me then was the manager saying, ‘If you could wait 30 to 40 minutes, our staff will fetch them from the Nihonbashi branch.’ As I had time, I accepted, feeling a bit apologetic.

    Whilst I purchase various items at different shops, I have never heard of such service where they would go to another shop on the same day to collect an item for you. This level of service is truly unique to Berluti. Even though we are repeat customers visiting with the intention to purchase, I was genuinely astonished and deeply impressed by the excellence of their service.

    While waiting for my junior colleague’s shoes to be decided and my friend’s shoes to arrive, the staff kindly suggested I take a look at the apparel collection, which I did. As Berluti is a brand that started with shoes, it releases many leather goods of a quality unmatched by other brands.

    I was shown a shearling jacket with a Greer B3 motif and tried it on; its exceptional quality made me want to buy it. My junior colleague was tempted by a leather hooded blouson and was surprised when he tried it on. They have developed a leather that is as thin and light as nylon, with UV protection and waterproofing, and it is available in a very sophisticated range. 

    It is expensive, so I didn’t buy it, but the high-quality, sophisticated apparel line is something I would like to buy and wear someday.

    Whilst we were looking at the apparel line, my friend’s Andy Demjoure Neo Flex Loafers arrived. He tried them on immediately. As they were the same size as his existing Andy shoes, they fit perfectly. Made from softer suede than the standard Andy, with a supple leather sole, they felt completely free of that initial stiffness new shoes often have. He was thoroughly satisfied and decided on the Andy Demjoure Neo Flex Loafers.

    Refined hospitality

    Having settled on the shoes to gift both my junior colleague and friend, I completed the payment and presented the gifts to them. At that time, I was also given a year-end promotional item and a book summarising Berluti’s history.

    After receiving maintenance instructions and a final thank you from the staff and manager who assisted us, we left the shop. Though the actual shopping took just under two hours, I was deeply impressed by the shop’s wholehearted commitment to fulfilling customer wishes. This included patiently assisting my junior colleague, who has discerning taste and strong preferences, with his shoe selection, and even going to another store to fetch a product for my friend with unusual sizing.

    Each time I visit, the manager suggests I should definitely wear Berluti shoes. While I always keep Berluti in mind – their shoes are beautiful, like works of art, not just visually appealing but also superbly crafted – I explain that I’ve put the idea on hold, thinking they might be a bit too prominent for my current style. Nevertheless, knowing this is a brand that treats customers so well, my heart is stirred every time I step inside.

    Wearing example.

    This time, as they are not for my own wear, there are no photos of me wearing them. My friend started wearing them the very next day after purchase, so I couldn’t take any pictures. However, my junior colleague said they wanted to keep a record of them, so I temporarily held them, took photos, and then passed them on to my junior colleague.

    The photographs featured in this article are solely of the Galé Cursive slippers gifted to my junior colleague. The form of the Andy Demjoure Neo Flex loafers gifted to my friend is also exceptionally beautiful, so I hope to photograph them and feature them in an article when the opportunity arises.

    Berluti Galet Cursive Slippers
    The calligraphy script is asymmetrical, with the right side being the main focus and the left outer edge forming part of the toe. Viewed from the outer side of the left foot, it resembles a slip-on crafted from a single piece of plain leather. However, the exceptionally beautiful patina alone, with its subtle gradation of shades, possesses an artistic beauty.

    Galé Cursive slippers

    • Venetian calf leather
    • Colour: Tobacco Bis
    • Construction: Blake
    • Country of origin: Made in Italy
    • Collection: Classic Collection
    • Shoe tree: Included
    • Line: Galet

    Andy Demjoure Neo Flex Loafer

    • Loafer
    • Break construction
    • Demjoure Neo last
    • Camoccio calf leather
    • Venice calf leather detailing on the back
    • Cushioning on the back ensures comfort
    • Leather lining and insole
    • Flexible outsole construction

    Conclusion.

    This time, I presented Berluti shoes as a gift to celebrate a junior colleague and friend. While I have previously written about Berluti’s exceptional customer service, this recent experience reaffirmed and further impressed me with their approach, truly demonstrating the remarkable quality one expects from a long-established house.

    The following message regarding maintenance is posted on the official website.

    Founded by Alessandro Berluti, a master shoemaker and repairer, Maison Berluti places great emphasis on circularity. For the Maison, there is nothing more natural than providing care and repairs to ensure products are cherished for as long as the customer desires. From shoes and leather goods to prêt-à-porter, the Maison’s ateliers offer a range of services designed to help you enjoy your items in beautiful condition for as long as possible.

    Through years of diligently building upon the founder’s principles, establishing the trust and reputation it enjoys today, and continuing to provide services that allow customers in Japan to experience the founder’s philosophy firsthand, both I and the two individuals who received this gift hold the Berluti brand in the deepest respect.

    Shop

    The Berluti store that attended to you on this occasion is the Berluti Ginza store.

    It possesses a high level of prestige, creating an atmosphere where one hesitates to casually peek inside. However, upon entering and viewing the merchandise, one finds that the brand, based on the artistic shoes Berluti has meticulously crafted over many years, also offers leather accessories, bags, and apparel.

    As mentioned in the article , the excellence of their customer service is also world-class, ensuring the ultimate experience from the moment of purchase through to subsequent care. Having dealt in leather shoes – products with an exceptionally long lifespan – the brand embodies the philosophy that truly fine items are meant to be cherished for years. One can appreciate the cultural aspect deeply rooted in Europe, where items steeped in ancient history are considered of supreme value.

    While the shoes on display possess a beauty distinct from a sense of historical weight, it is precisely these exquisite shoes that embody the history of years spent steadfastly crafting fine footwear, cherished by customers.

    While the extraordinary beauty of these new shoes might initially make long-term care seem daunting, their colour develops over time. If you grow fond of this patina, you can enjoy the ageing process. Should changes or wear become a concern, a refresh through re-colouring is possible. This makes them excellent shoes for long-term use, embodying the brand’s philosophy.

    While my article focuses solely on footwear, the brand also offers equally splendid leather goods, bags, and apparel – all designed for enduring use. It is a brand I would wholeheartedly recommend to anyone seeking truly exceptional pieces for long-term enjoyment.

    Berluti Official Website

  • Dior Cashmere Pea coat

    Dior Cashmere Pea coat

    As mentioned in my denim shirt article, I was swayed by a junior colleague’s comment: ‘Wouldn’t it be splendid to effortlessly wear Dior at sixty?’ Consequently, I purchased several Dior pieces this year. The main item is the cashmere peacoat featured here.

    Peacoats and duffle coats are items I favour, but finding one that truly suits me these days has proven rather difficult. This Dior cashmere peacoat, however, stands out. Compared to standard melton peacoats, it’s crafted from cashmere melton. The fabric is substantial yet not overly thick, making it exceptionally light and warm – a piece that will prove invaluable during the depths of winter.

    Dior Cashmere Pea coat
    At first glance, it appears to be nothing more than a slightly slim-fitting pea coat. Yet as you experiment with various combinations, the design and meticulous attention to detail in this pea coat’s construction become apparent.
    Dior Cashmere Pea coat
    A tag is attached to the inside pocket on the left chest. Unlike other items, it lacks the Dior logo on the exterior, meaning it would likely go unnoticed as a Dior product unless spotted by a fashion connoisseur with a keen eye.

    Introduction.

    The peacoat is an iconic piece in men’s fashion, exceptionally easy to wear and effortlessly put together without much thought. The Dior cashmere peacoat featured here, however, reveals several distinctive characteristics when actually worn, making it a slightly more challenging piece to style with sophistication. Nevertheless, it is an excellent peacoat that, when key points are mastered, can be worn with remarkable refinement. I therefore wish to introduce it, including discussion of these aspects.

    Dior’s World

    To truly wear Dior, rather than simply donning what society generally perceives as high-end designer clothing, one must possess a slim physique suited to Dior’s very stoic, minimalist garments. It requires aligning one’s sensibilities with this pared-back aesthetic.

    As I wrote in the denim shirt article, there’s the anecdote of Karl Lagerfeld, the fashion emperor who led Chanel and Fendi, losing a staggering 40 kilograms. Similarly, as one approaches one’s sixtieth year, it becomes imperative to first address a deteriorating physique.

    Personally, I’ve cleared the first hurdle of being physically able to wear such clothes. What remains is to hone the sense required to truly carry them off. This sense of style isn’t so much about being good or bad, but rather whether I can accept things different from what I traditionally liked. 

    I doubt many people besides myself would find a pea coat impossible to wear, even in a slim fit. Similarly, slim-fit black denim, which looks quite narrow, isn’t as tight as it appears. I usually wear jeans with a 30-inch waist, and I wear Dior’s black denim in a 30-inch waist too.

    Compared to the straight-leg Levi’s or Lee jeans I usually wear, they are indeed more fitted. However, the waist feels slightly roomy, the thigh area is comfortable, and it’s only around the calf that I notice a slimmer feel. I don’t find them too tight or uncomfortable to wear.

    The reason these jeans appear slim yet don’t feel overly tight when worn is largely due to the depth of the rise. This attention to detail is characteristic of a top maison’s meticulous craftsmanship.

    As mentioned regarding Dior’s denim shirt, the slim silhouettes of Dior garments possess a delicate, naive, boyish quality that expresses eternal youth and resonates with Karl Lagerfeld’s sensibility. (This is purely my personal view.)

    I’ve never personally desired eternal youth, but looking at photos of myself wearing the slim-fit black denim I bought alongside the Dior peacoat, I do feel a more youthful image than my natural self.

    Admittedly, the boyish or naive qualities weren’t discernible in my photos, but purely considering the silhouette, I can sense the delicate image evoked by Dior’s aesthetic.

    Slim and tight?

    The pea coat and slim-fit denim I purchased this time carry forward the aesthetic established during the Edie Slimane era. Consequently, they are cut quite narrowly, meaning some people may find them difficult to wear or feel they don’t suit them.

    Personally, while I am slimmer than the average for my generation, my shoulders and chest are slightly larger than average. So, if you’re asking whether I fit the delicate, naive impression Dior proposes, the answer is no.

    Dior’s image often conjures up the impression of slim, tight silhouettes, suggesting one must endure wearing constricting garments. In reality, while the fit is snug, there is no sense of restricted movement or the feeling of forcing oneself into something too narrow.

    As you will see in the later examples of wear in this article, even the slim-fit black denim, which carries a decidedly slender image, shows a silhouette with just the right amount of creasing. (The calculated, exquisite placement of these creases creates a clean, streamlined look for the legs.)

    How to wear Dior peacoat

    This style, with its black pea coat and slim-fit black denim, has a distinctly fashion-forward feel in terms of colour and styling – quite unlike my usual look. As such, I feel a slight hesitation about wearing it.

    When I tried them on at the Dior Ginza store, I thought the slim-fit black jeans looked a bit too tight in the mirror. However, I wondered if my eye, accustomed to vintage pieces, might be creating a certain bias towards the style. To get a more objective view, I asked the staff and a friend for their opinions. They both said the style looked better than the combination of the Lee 101Z jeans and peacoat I was wearing at the time.

    Personally, I felt at the time that this level of slimness might be a bit embarrassing? However, respecting their opinions, I decided to try this style.

    This year, the temperatures dropped later than usual, so I rarely wore winter clothes. It wasn’t until December that I finally started wearing them. I had a chance to meet a junior colleague in Omotesando and asked him his thoughts on the black peacoat and black slim-fit denim combo I was wearing that day. This junior colleague has exceptional taste, effortlessly pulling off Tom Ford to showcase his tall, lean and muscular build with a masculine coolness that’s both understated and classy.

    He said he fully understood my love for vintage pieces, but honestly felt this style was more refined and sophisticated, and suited me better. He noted that today’s outfit complemented my physique perfectly, and that the inner aura naturally emanating from me didn’t get lost beneath the clothes. He added that even the challenging, stoic Dior style looked effortlessly worn.

    This is my personal take, but the junior’s reasoning – that the Omotesando to Aoyama area is a fashion-forward neighbourhood frequented by stylish individuals – makes sense. This Dior ensemble seems perfectly suited to the streetscape there, so their opinion could also be seen as influenced by the environment.

    Considering the area, Harajuku tends to attract those who stylishly wear vintage clothing, so vintage might be appropriate there. For instance, if we shift the location to Ginza, I feel Brunello Cucinelli garments from my own wardrobe would be well-suited. This also speaks to how one perceives the social context inherent in clothing.

    Dior’s sense of style possesses a worldview that transcends my personal preferences; it means that an outfit I might feel slightly embarrassed about wearing can appear highly sophisticated to the discerning eye. Accepting this sense of discrepancy between a third party’s opinion and my own perception is also an element that refines one’s personal sense of style.

    To experience a perfected worldview that transcends sensibilities and personal preferences

    One reason I favour vintage and Americana is the way of dressing that isn’t overly preoccupied with fashion (you could call it natural). Once you’ve built up a decent collection, you can simply pick up whatever’s in front of you and put it on without thinking, and a style just comes together.

    This approach to dressing has remained unchanged since my youth; it’s also a highly rational and efficient way to wear clothes. This fundamental approach applies not only to vintage and Americana-style items, but also when wearing Brunello Cucinelli or other top maison pieces I own. 

    Because I interact with clothes in this way, I’ve rarely worn an entire outfit from a single specific brand. While I might wear a set-up style combination, there’s always something else mixed in.

    My basic approach to dressing involves naturally incorporating pieces I’m particularly attached to or fond of into these combinations. (It’s rather like a high schooler’s favourite outfit, isn’t it?) This might be a vintage piece.

    I wear Brunello Cucinelli without consciously thinking “I’m wearing Brunello Cucinelli”. What I felt wearing Dior this time was that there was a sense of “I’m wearing Dior” somewhere in my mind, and perhaps I was subconsciously avoiding that awareness. This might be a matter of getting used to it, something that fades with time, but it was a sensation I experienced for the first time.

    What struck me about this combination of Dior’s pea coat and slim-fit denim was that it transcends the usual approach of selecting clothes without much thought about how to wear them, or the tendency to dismiss garments based purely on image. It possesses a unique worldview of its own.

    This experience transcended my previous preconceptions about Dior’s aesthetic – that while stylish, it wasn’t something I would wear. In a sense, I felt that wearing Dior this time allowed me to step into the world they’ve constructed.

    Taking photos of myself wearing the items for the article, I began to grasp what my junior colleague had meant. It was an experience that made me realise this was the essence of the world of men’s fashion that Dior has inherited from the past and continues to embody today.

    The worldview Edie Slimane built, introduced in this article, is still carried forward by Dior today. However, contemporary Dior incorporates other elements too, expressing its own distinct universe. Even when appearing casual, it still constructs its own distinct world view – truly befitting a top Parisian maison. Even if slim, minimalist clothing isn’t your preference, you can still appreciate Dior’s world view, so if you’re interested, do try wearing it.

    Below are a few photos of me wearing the pieces. I don’t have the model-like looks, so they may not be very helpful as references, but I hope you can get a sense of the atmosphere.

    Wearing example.

    Dior Cashmere Pea coat
    My own style isn’t particularly good, but simply pairing Dior denim with a pea coat somehow evokes that minimal, stoic Dior aesthetic. The colour scheme is black-based, with the inner layer and knit cap in a neutral mid-grey combination. For the inner knit, I’ve paired it with a Brunello Cucinelli sweatshirt-style cashmere knit. Honestly, someone taller and slimmer would likely showcase Dior’s strengths better. This combination is very fashion-forward, a style I’ve completely stopped wearing recently. I’ve always thought black-based combinations looked cool, but I’ve avoided them, thinking they didn’t suit me. Trying this outfit, however, made me feel I’ve finally grasped the appeal of black.
    Dior Cashmere Pea coat
    The silhouette I envision for Dior is a slender, elongated rectangle. The pea coat is tailored with straight-cut lines into a slim A-line shape, though it differs from the conventional A-line in that it is constructed to appear slightly three-dimensional from the underarm to the waist, creating an X-like silhouette. Numerous other ingenious techniques and craftsmanship are woven throughout, and this meticulous attention to construction defines the quality of a top maison, creating a unique aesthetic that other brands cannot replicate. The slim, minimalist designs created by Edie Slimane live on in today’s Dior, and the designs that appear somewhat delicate and naive remain very much present.
    Dior Cashmere Pea coat
    Wearing a pea coat with the buttons fastened creates a slender, delicate impression, but removing it reveals an ordinary figure. It becomes clear how the pea coat’s construction and finish visually consolidate one’s style.
    Dior Cashmere Pea coat
    I’ve only changed the trousers, but they pair well with slim straight-leg cotton trousers. This style isn’t overly assertive, making it very easy to wear. I also tried pairing it with 1950s Lee 101Z jeans, but while the trousers weren’t unsuitable, they didn’t create the same silhouette as slim-fit trousers. The difference from the previous Brunello Cucinelli piece is that while Cucinelli possesses a tolerance that allows pairing with other items, Dior maintains a solitary dedication that accepts only minimalist pieces in the Dior style. This represents a difference in philosophy between global top maisons like Brunello Cucinelli and Dior. Choosing between them requires a clear understanding of individual preferences and the worldview one seeks to express. This process ultimately shapes a style that truly suits the individual.
    Dior Cashmere Pea coat
    The silhouette can appear different depending on the trousers paired with Dior’s impressive peacoat. Compared to the minimalist style achieved with the aforementioned Dior black denim, this combination makes the upper body silhouette appear more ordinary.
    Dior Cashmere Pea coat
    The remarkable thing about Dior is that when you wear a pea coat, you appear slimmer—or rather, slightly more delicate—but when you take it off, you look like you have an ordinary figure.
    Dior Cashmere Pea coat
    Let’s move a little further away from the worldview proposed by Dior. Pair the beige cotton trousers with a light green cashmere knit from Tom Ford, wrap a stole around your neck, and finish with John Lobb Barros shoes. This style shifts the image from Dior’s worldview to a more general elegance. The fact that it looks elegant through combination rather than just minimalism can be seen as a by-product of the exquisite balance between good craftsmanship and fashionable touches, without going overboard.
    Dior Cashmere Pea coat
    Black is paired with pale pastel green, and this atmosphere is reminiscent of the BCBG style that was popular in the 1980s.
    Dior Cashmere Pea coat
    The silhouette appears different depending on the combination of innerwear and bottoms. This style, pairing beige trousers with the top, creates a more timeless and elegant look, making it an easy style to wear daily.

    Details.

    • Notch lapel
    • Side welt pocket
    • Inner welt pocket
    • Horn buttons with Dior engraving
    • Dior jacquard back lining and sleeve lining
    • Back vent
    • 100% cashmere, lining: 100% cupro
    • Made in Italy

    Combinations.

    • Peacoat: Dior cashmere peacoat (black)
    • Knitwear (grey): Brunello Cucinelli sweatshirt-style cashmere knit
    • Knitwear (green): Tom Ford cashmere knit
    • Denim: Dior slim fit denim
    • Five-pocket cotton trousers: Visvim
    • Hat (grey): LEUCHTFEUE
    • Watch: Rolex Day Date (1803 1969)
    • Sunglasses: Tom Ford
    • Belt: Hender Scheme
    • Shoes: Black suede work boots: Visvim
    • Shoes: Brown U-tip: John Lobb Barros

    Conclusion.

    This time, prompted by a junior colleague remarking, ‘Wouldn’t it be splendid to effortlessly wear Dior at sixty?’, I purchased and tried on a Dior piece. It possessed a worldview transcending my personal taste and sensibilities, proving a profoundly impactful experience that significantly altered my perspective on clothing. This worldview was presented to the world in an avant-garde form twenty years ago, yet it could be said that only now, two decades later, have I finally grasped its essence. One could say it took me twenty years to grasp the brilliance of Hedi Slimane. 

    I recall reading an interview where Chuck Berry mentioned it took him forty years to master a particular phrase or piece from a song by his revered Charlie Christian (a jazz guitarist, or rather the progenitor of bebop. He’s also a legend in jazz history, as bebop is said to have emerged from these musicians’ after-hours sessions). I feel a similar sense of time and effort required. (I believe this was part of an interview conducted by an American guitar magazine for the Chuck Berry film produced by Keith Richards.)

    While this article focuses on aesthetics and conceptual aspects, the Dior cashmere peacoat featured here is an exceptional piece in its own right. Beyond its styling potential, the quality of its fabric and tailoring is truly first-rate, making its comfort and lightness a given. However, Dior’s unique aesthetic is woven into it, giving it a distinct styling compared to other standard pea coats. When pairing it meticulously, the difference between suitable and unsuitable items becomes starkly apparent. Depending on what you combine it with, you might get a sense that it’s not bad, but just not quite right. (This is my pairing with the Lee 101Z)

    This experience made me realise how I myself had become entrenched in my favourite pieces, not actively seeking to incorporate novelty or freshness into my personal style.

    In terms of past innovation, Carpe Diem, Carol Christian Poell, and early Margiera were indeed avant-garde, yet they were reconstructions of past icons. That is precisely why I favoured and cherished their garments.

    However, reflecting on why Dior never suited me, it was because those aforementioned brands strongly emphasised vintage elements or reinterpretations of timeless classics—elements I felt no resistance towards. Conversely, Dior’s all-black, minimalist aesthetic—a unified worldview that seemed to reject pairing with other items—simply didn’t resonate with my sensibilities.

    This experience taught me the importance of approaching fashion without preconceptions and actually trying things on.

    Now, having worn Dior garments, experienced its worldview, and sensed the underlying power of Parisian haute couture sensibility that reaches its zenith during Paris Fashion Week, I understand its merits. Consequently, I intend to try other pieces when the opportunity arises.

    Shop

    I purchase my Dior items at the House of Dior Ginza in Ginza SIX.

    The staff are exceptionally kind, highly experienced, and offer spot-on styling advice. They also provide precise suggestions for items of interest or related pieces, proposing a complete look that embodies Dior’s vision of sophisticated dressing.

    The selection is comprehensive, covering both menswear and womenswear, and they coordinate everything from bags and accessories to cosmetics. Why not pop along with your wife on a day off?

    From the 2026 Spring/Summer season, a new designer presented the collection. It felt like a return to the fundamentals of men’s fashion, masterfully infused with Dior’s unique aesthetic. While top fashion houses over the last decade have largely imitated very casual, relaxed styles, this collection feels like a return to the essence of timeless menswear, which I find very exciting.

    Regarding the store, I’ve also explained it in detail in the denim shirt article, so please refer to that as well.

    [ Dior Over shirt’s Article ]

    Dior official website

  • A-2 REAL McCOY’S

    A-2 REAL McCOY’S

    For those aged 50 and above, when asked to picture vintage leather items, the A-2 flight jacket worn by the US Air Force during the Second World War likely springs to mind first. Even those uninterested in vintage clothing and unfamiliar with the name “A-2” will recognise the silhouette of leather jackets inspired by this design – the collar, shoulder epaulettes, and flap pockets on both sides – as a familiar sight.

    Since 2010, military-style leather jackets have become less common, overshadowed by the popularity of biker jackets. However, you’ll still frequently encounter a wide variety of designs: from jackets mimicking the motif, to reproductions, and even meticulously authentic recreations of the original specifications.

    To briefly explain the A-2 flight jacket, it was formally adopted by the US Army Air Corps in 1931 as a summer-season flight jacket. You might have a vague image of it from Steve McQueen wearing one in the film The Great Escape. Alongside the G-1 jacket, which similarly features a fur-lined collar, and the B-3, designed for extreme cold, it stands as one of the quintessential military-style leather items.

    As they were originally issued as genuine military wear, vintage examples circulating today are seldom plain. You’ll frequently encounter pieces adorned with rank insignia, patches, or back paintings (notably the famous blood chit). While highly appealing as vintage garments, they present a challenge to style for everyday wear. Their distinctive character makes them difficult to incorporate into contemporary fashion, likely appealing only to enthusiasts.

    A-2 REAL McCOY’S
    My favourite is the A-2 from REAL McCOY’S. This meticulous brand, passionate about American vintage clothing, revives various items for the modern era. They enhance quality while maintaining contemporary relevance by referencing the authentic construction of the period. Like the original, they use horsehide, but the leather quality is excellent, and the ribbing material and stitching are finished with great care.
    A-2 REAL McCOY’S
    The product tags are also researched to be authentic, so they appear natural. The quality and playful touch are such that even if the “Real McCoy” label were said to be from a contractor of the time (a supplier designated by the US military), one would not know.

    Introduction.

    I don’t often have occasion to wear a leather jacket (nowadays called a leather jacket), but occasionally I feel like putting one on. For those times, the A-2 flight jacket I’m introducing today is something I can easily pick up and throw on.

    The A-2 flight jacket I own is the REAL McCOY’S A-2 flight jacket. They have thoroughly researched the authentic A-2, enhancing the quality of the leather material, stitching, and rib detailing, whilst incorporating various refinements to ensure it remains comfortable to wear today. It’s an exceptionally fine piece that elevates the quality without compromising the original style and form of the A-2, which is why I wish to introduce it here.

    Whilst I mention it being easy to wear, in its new state, the horse leather is inherently very stiff and cannot be described as comfortable. The leather won’t soften until it’s been worn in sufficiently. It requires undergoing the ritual of new leather jackets – simply wearing it to mould to your body – before it becomes comfortable for regular wear. It’s an item where you can enjoy this process too.

    It doesn’t offer the same comfort as the Brunello Cucinelli piece featured in a previous article, but it embodies the fascination of leather goods: once it moulds to your body, it becomes surprisingly comfortable. While it lacks the lightness and softness of certain fabrics, there’s a distinct pleasure in wearing something that feels uniquely suited to you.

    The difficulty of wearing a leather jacket stylishly

    Whilst chatting with a mate about leather jackets, we got onto the topic of how military-style leather jackets were fairly common to wear, but once you hit your forties and your figure starts to go, wearing one just makes you look like an old bloke in a leather jacket, so you gradually stop wearing it.

    I can sort of see what he means. A junior colleague of mine adores his G-1 jacket. When I saw him recently, he was wearing it, but he no longer had the slim build of his youth. The jeans he paired it with didn’t quite fit his frame, and even his beloved JM Weston golf shoes looked a bit clumsy somehow. Apologies to my junior colleague, but he’d become the very embodiment of that “middle-aged bloke’s leather jacket” we’d discussed. He loves his G-1 and wears it often, but as he’s aged, it’s started to look a bit… well, middle-aged. He asked me if there was a way to wear it better. 

    Given this situation, I thought I might try wearing a military-style leather jacket again after a long time. So, I declared to the friend and junior colleague who’d brought up the topic that I wouldn’t become a “middle-aged bloke’s leather jacket”. Having made that declaration, I started thinking about what to wear. The G-1 and B-3 with their fur lining are warm, but the silhouette tends to puff out, making me worry I’d end up looking like an old man in a leather jacket too. An A-2, however, has a shorter length and doesn’t puff out as much around the chest, so I reckon the silhouette would look cleaner. That’s why the A-2 became a candidate.

    A-2 REAL McCOY’S

    I ponder what kind of A-2 to wear. Personally, I adore vintage clothing and hold a special respect for original items. Fake a had an original A-2, and when I saw it, it featured what you might call blood-chit painting. The vintage item’s value is incredibly high, but when asked if it would suit me? Well, it’s a bit iffy (I reckon I could pull it off reasonably well, but when I think about when and where I’d actually wear it, it gets knocked off the list. The piece itself is superb, so I suppose it might work for someone in the fashion industry involved with vintage, who’s regularly seen around the Harajuku area).

    Leaving Fake a and walking along Meiji-dori towards Shibuya, you’ll find REAL McCOY’S. I recall REAL McCOY’S being in Daikanyama nearly 25 years ago; I remember popping in once to look at their chinos. I had the impression they were quite active in reproducing vintage pieces, and I vaguely remembered them doing A-2 jackets, so I decided to pop in.

    I don’t recall the details of the REAL McCOY’S shop I visited 25 years ago, but it somehow had an American shop-like atmosphere. My past memories and the current shop’s ambience synced up, evoking a strangely nostalgic feeling.

    They also stock A-2 jackets, ranging from basic styles to special items like those dyed with persimmon tannin in a slightly lighter brown. Beyond the A-2, there are many other highly intriguing items like Buco’s rider jackets and thermal T-shirts. I’ll be taking a while to look at various items.

    I select a basic A-2 for fitting. The staff suggest sizes 40 or 38 might suit me best, advising that 40 would be ideal for layering in the depths of winter, while 38 would be better for avoiding bulkiness if worn without heavy layers. Here, I learn about the A-2’s origins for the first time – that it was the summer uniform of the US Army Air Corps. I’m also told this particular motif is from an early model.

    Given my build, the 38 would look sleeker, so I opted for that size. To complement the A-2, I also purchased Bearhead work boots and a thermal T-shirt to wear underneath.

    REAL McCOY’S has long specialised in vintage and military wear, with a passion for research, so their A-2 jackets are developed with meticulous attention to detail. The quality of their A-2s is, of course, excellent. As the staff mentioned, they’ve even reproduced the materials to minimise issues like moth damage to the ribbing, which is common in vintage A-2s. They also informed me that, while the probability is low, they offer repairs should moth damage occur.

    Size selection and combination are key

    I purchased an A-2 jacket from REAL McCOY’S. As I’m fond of jeans, I pair the A-2 with 501XX or 101Z jeans, along with the work boots I bought alongside the jacket, wearing a thermal T-shirt underneath. Even with this style, I don’t end up looking like the aforementioned middle-aged gentleman in a leather jacket. Let me consider why this is.

    The primary reason a leather jacket ends up looking like an old man’s, I believe, lies in the sizing and silhouette of the items worn with it. The A-2 fits me perfectly in shoulder width, body width, and overall length, creating a clean silhouette. The 501XX jeans I pair it with are also a perfect fit; the waist is 30 inches and the length is 32 inches, slightly longer, but I can wear them without rolling the hem when paired with work boots that have a heel. The 101Z is similar; the waist is 30 inches and the length is 33 inches, but I can wear it without turning up the hem.

    This time it’s the A-2, but the key points to avoid making a military-style leather jacket look like an “uncle’s leather jacket” are:

    • Pay attention to the sizing of both the A-2 and the bottoms you pair it with
    • Sizing: Choose items that fit your body as closely as possible to refine the overall silhouette.
    • Opt for slightly longer bottoms and shoes with heels to maximise the length effect.
    • Ideally, pair with boots for balanced proportions; dark brown complements the A-2 jacket well.
    • Inner layers must not protrude from the A-2 (as the jacket is fitted, longer inner layers disrupt the balance).

    The junior’s G-1 jacket looked like an old man’s leather jacket because the straight-leg jeans had an awkward length, revealing a bit of sock. The slightly oversized fit and subtle bulk also contributed. This could be resolved by choosing jeans that fit properly and are slightly longer. The jeans’ awkward length ruins the effect of the shoes.

    Furthermore, as the golf shirt is black, a dark brown G-1 would pair better with dark brown shoes for a more cohesive look. Regarding the crucial G-1 styling, fastening the zip all the way up also contributes to the dowdy appearance. It became clear that simply avoiding this – perhaps wearing a scarf or stole instead when cold – prevents it from looking like an old man’s leather jacket.

    When I wore my A-2 and subtly pointed out corrections to my junior’s style, he understood. Having shopped at Barneys in his youth, he has a reasonably high fashion sense and promptly adjusted his styling to avoid the “uncle” leather jacket look.

    The difficulty of wearing A-2 well

    For the past few years, I’ve mainly worn jeans and hardly any other trousers, so this year I’m aiming to incorporate more non-denim options. I’m actively wearing work trousers featured in a separate article, as well as the five-pocket cotton trousers mentioned in a previous post.

    The five-pocket cotton trousers are by Visvim. They feature a slim silhouette rather than the brand’s signature oversized look, and while the rise isn’t quite low-rise, it’s not the deep rise seen in many contemporary trousers. Visvim is a remarkable maison; their deep understanding of vintage clothing and fashion history makes their manufacturing process fascinating, incorporating traditional craft techniques and demonstrating strong social consciousness.

    As these Visvim five-pocket cotton trousers have a slimmer silhouette than the 501XX or 101 and are a light beige colour, I pair them with an A-2 jacket.

    The A-2 is a genuine military item, originally made for the armed forces, and is quite a rugged, masculine piece. Pairing this rugged, masculine item with military trousers looks cool, but soldiers have different physiques, and the average Japanese person won’t achieve the same look by imitating them.

    For the average Japanese build, a well-fitting straight-leg jean or slim-fit chino will provide a better, more balanced look.

    The challenge with the A-2 lies not in being fashionable or not, but in the inherent strength of its character (the image, not the item itself). Wearing an A-2 makes you become the person wearing the A-2. This might be difficult to articulate clearly, but perhaps it’s easier to understand by saying the A-2 takes precedence over the person wearing it.

    Even when wearing the A-2, a military item with such history and excellence, it requires a certain level of style sense to ensure you don’t become the A-2 wearing person, or an old man’s leather jacket.

    It has been three years since I purchased REAL McCOY’S A-2 jacket, and while I am writing this article based on my experience at that time, if I were to wear the A-2 this year, I would pair it with bottoms other than jeans, enjoying the A-2 in a manner similar to the examples shown.

    A-2 Style Guide

    This year, I’m considering wearing my iconic reissued leather items, such as the A-2, more often than usual. As I’m approaching my sixtieth birthday, I’m thinking of wearing them in a slightly more mature style. Within that, I find it interesting to choose footwear that diverges from the conventional theory. In the outfit example, I’ve paired Brunello Cucinelli suede penny loafers with John Lobb’s brown Barros. (The reason is simple: I forgot my boots or trainers for the shoot, so I wore the shoes I had to hand – and surprisingly, they worked well… but discovering this happy accident was fortunate.)

    Pairing them with Brunello Cucinelli’s suede penny loafers creates a look reminiscent of items exhibited at Pitti, embodying contemporary Italian fashion.

    Interestingly, pairing them with John Lobb’s U-tip Barros brings out the BCBG-esque elements inherent in the Barros’ historical image. Compared to the combination with the contemporary Italian-style suede loafers, this pairing creates a more grounded, formal atmosphere, enhancing the elegance – something I only realised after seeing the photos post-shoot.

    My John Lobb Barros were purchased in 2000, making them 25 years old. Yet, thanks to their robust construction and design, they remain in excellent condition. This truly demonstrates that a good pair of shoes can last a lifetime.

    It’s a simple style: just an A-2 jacket, matching trousers, a knit cap, and a stole. However, by pairing it with items that temper the A-2’s character, the jacket’s strong presence doesn’t dominate. This allows you to pull off the look without becoming the stereotypical “A-2 jacket wearer” I mentioned earlier.

    The significance of wearing a reissued A-2

    If you wish to wear refined leather items, another option is to choose motif pieces from today’s top maisons or Italian manufacturers exhibiting at Pitti. This style features a modernised original silhouette, designed to flatter anyone who wears it.

    While the designs are similar, the styling has been updated for contemporary wear, eliminating the stiff, difficult-to-wear quality of original horsehide. Most use calf or lamb leather, meaning they are soft and comfortable from the outset.

    However, the distinctive character and atmosphere of the original items are somewhat diminished, so I believe the choice should depend on personal preference and the occasion for wearing them.

    In my personal opinion, the reissued A-2, which is quite close to the authentic version, is in a sense akin to the current Levi’s 501 – one of the prototypes for the leather jackets now flooding the market. This shares a commonality with Levi’s 501 jeans: even amidst a sea of excellent jeans, the universal appeal of the 501 not only remains unchanged but often appears to shine even brighter. 

    This goes beyond mere fashion or style; it touches on a deeper sensibility. Wearing timeless, basic items effortlessly and stylishly is one choice, as is wearing trendy, fashionable clothes stylishly. The answer is simply to enjoy the style that suits you best.

    The former represents a kind of classic style; while it may experience some fluctuations in popularity, if asked which would likely still hold up ten years from now, I believe it would be the former style, built on timeless elements. The latter allows one to express a more contemporary edge, so if that’s the style one seeks, then choosing the latter is perfectly valid.

    I personally favour the former, yet when I wear pieces like Brunello Cucinelli or Dior (as seen in other articles), I feel the underlying power of fashionable clothing that follows trends. (The items themselves are basic pieces I prefer, avoiding overly trendy elements, but the styling is contemporary).

    Below are a few photos showing how it can be worn. I’m afraid I’m no model, so they may not be very helpful, but I hope they give you a sense of the style.

    Wearing example.

    A-2 REAL McCOY’S
    Wearing a knitted cap and stole softens the A-2 jacket’s character, creating a more refined style. Pairing it with slim-fit beige trousers and suede loafers lends a Pitti-esque, contemporary Italian feel. Though not readily apparent in the photograph, a Brunello Cucinelli Western shirt is tucked in underneath.
    A-2 REAL McCOY’S
    The flattering silhouette from behind is partly due to the A-2’s shorter length. While not quite as pronounced as the leather items from top fashion houses that are very much on-trend, it still creates a beautifully cohesive overall silhouette.
    A-2 REAL McCOY’S
    Simply swapping your shoes from suede loafers to John Lobb’s Barros, a full-grain leather U-tip, lends a sense of refined quality with a lower centre of gravity. This style brings to mind terms like BCBG and preppy, fashion trends from the 1980s, and I recalled a friend from my student days who used to pair his jeans with tassels.
    A-2 REAL McCOY’S
    These Barros shoes, purchased 25 years ago, boast a restrained design, excellent craftsmanship and robustness. Rather than a quality derived from design, one thinks of a quality born of the making itself. They are shoes that originally suited a slightly more formal look than casual trousers.
    A-2 REAL McCOY’S
    Originally a slightly lighter brown, years of care using cream cleaner and shoe polish (both by John Lobb) have given it a unique patina that I’ve grown very fond of.

    My intention was to introduce the A-2, but it has turned into a theme about how to wear military-style leather items. Whether it’s the A-2, G-1, or B-3, each has its own distinct characteristics and is a highly masculine piece – something men, myself included, tend to admire. Their strong individuality and the sheer number of imitations mean they can be surprisingly difficult to pull off.

    Though I didn’t try it this time, pairing slim-fit chinos without a centre crease with a non-oversized sweatshirt, layering an A-2 jacket over it, and finishing with sneakers like Converse can be quite enjoyable. This style evokes the look of Steve McQueen in The Great Escape. Admittedly a bit of a cheat, but pairing this sweatshirt with a cashmere knit imitating the design of Brunello Cucinelli or Loro Piana sweatshirts, and combining it with casual yet refined leather shoes like the John Lobb Barros worn this time, creates a sophisticated, high-quality look. I own a Brunello Cucinelli-style cashmere knit sweatshirt and would like to photograph it when the opportunity arises.

    Details.

    • Leather: Horsehide / Tannin-tanned, pigment finish
    • Lining: Cotton broadcloth
    • Front fastener: 40s bell-shaped, nickel-plated
    • Ribbing: Wool rib
    • Sewing thread: Cotton thread

    Combinations.

    • Leather jacket: REAL McCOY’S
    • Western shirt: Brunello Cucinelli
    • Cashmere stole: Brunello Cucinelli
    • Five-pocket cotton trousers: Visvim
    • Hat (grey): LEUCHTFEUE
    • Watch: Rolex Day Date (1803 1969)
    • Sunglasses: Oakley
    • Belt: Brunello Cucinelli
    • Shoes: Brunello Cucinelli Suede Penny Loafers
    • Shoes: John Lobb Barros 2998 Last

    Conclusion.

    Originally, I purchased this A-2 jacket after a friend asked for advice on styling military leather. It reaffirmed what a versatile and fascinating piece it is. While it’s essentially an item you can wear without much fuss, its widespread popularity and inherent image mean that attempting a stylish or sophisticated look suddenly makes it much trickier to pull off.

    For younger wearers, it’s an item that looks cool simply by wearing it as you please. However, for those wearing it later in life, it becomes an item that demands a bit of thought. Not just the A-2, but leather goods in general have a naturally rugged appearance. Their look and texture differ significantly from cotton or wool, and their strong character meant I didn’t wear them frequently either. A key discovery, however, was that simply changing the trousers slightly creates a much more cohesive look and makes it surprisingly easy to wear.
    Being a reissue of the original, the horsehide’s stiffness takes time to break in. I’ve patiently worn mine until the leather moulded to my form, but those in a hurry can expedite the process by wearing it constantly at home. For maintenance, simply apply Mustang Oil – renowned for horsehide – by hand all over, leave it briefly, then wipe it off.
    It requires more care than standard outerwear and isn’t as comfortable as other jackets, but once you appreciate the characteristic leather quality of moulding to your body, you develop a real affection for it.
    Men often harbour a desire to look cool in a rugged leather jacket, don’t they? The A-2 is a genuine military item, officially issued by the US Army, and inherently possesses more than enough rugged coolness. Wearing it while enjoying the challenge of controlling that image is surely the way to make the most of an A-2.

    Shop

    The A-2 flight jacket featured here was purchased from REAL McCOY’S Tokyo. REAL McCOY’S is renowned for reproducing military items and reviving Buco’s iconic rider jackets. Their meticulous research results in reproductions of such exceptional quality that they surpass the originals.

    While their focus is on American military reproductions, they also offer workwear and denim. They reproduce items that could be considered quintessential vintage American casual wear, with a common thread being that they take the most stylish era as their motif. They pay meticulous attention to detail, incorporating modern adjustments while carefully preserving the original atmosphere.

    Whatever you choose, the quality is exceptionally high. For fans of Americana or military style, it’s the ultimate shop, allowing you to wear vintage-inspired items in new condition – pieces that are often difficult to find as originals. They offer not just outerwear, but also T-shirts, shirts, boots, shoes, and denim. Every item in the shop is crafted with meticulous attention to detail, so you can look sharp wearing a full REAL McCOY’S outfit.

    Given the highly niche nature of the items, the staff possess extensive knowledge, making their insights into the history and characteristics of original pieces particularly valuable.

    Beyond the A-2 flight jacket featured here, I also own a Buco J-100 and work boots. My collection of accessories ranges from thermal T-shirts in comfortable, lightweight fabrics to heavier-weight thermals that closely replicate authentic materials.

    While I mainly purchase leather items, their reissued cotton outerwear like the N1 is also superb, and I’d love to wear it if the opportunity arises. Though the focus is on military and workwear, giving a casual yet distinctive image, the excellent material selection and craftsmanship mean it’s a fantastic shop offering pieces you can enjoy for years to come.

    Real McCoy’s official website

    “Real McCoy’s” Global shipping is not supported. Come to the shop when you come to Japan.

  • Brunello Cucinelli Corduroy Jacket

    Brunello Cucinelli Corduroy Jacket

    Brunello Cucinelli’s double-breasted blazer with metal buttons. The colour is black rather than navy, crafted from exceptionally soft corduroy. Featuring a one-and-a-half breast design, this unstructured formal jacket embodies Brunello Cucinelli’s signature double-breasted style. Its exquisite silhouette prevents excessive gaping even when unbuttoned. With minimal interlining for relaxed comfort, it excels as a versatile jacket suitable for both formal and casual occasions.

    This blazer reinterprets the American blazer style with Brunello Cucinelli’s signature playful yet refined design, allowing versatile styling. The core look pairs the black soft corduroy jacket with white trousers in the same soft corduroy, complemented by a Western shirt crafted from Brunello Cucinelli’s premium, soft cotton. For footwear, we favour suede penny loafers over sneakers for their soft comfort and easy wear. This embodies Brunello Cucinelli’s proposed world of relaxed yet refined, effortlessly playful style.

    While enjoying Brunello Cucinelli’s proposed set-ups as a base, when I wish to style things a little more casually, I pair them with vintage 501XX jeans or slim-fit beige cotton five-pocket trousers made from German corduroy fabric.

    Brunello Cucinelli Corduroy Jacket
    This blazer offers Brunello Cucinelli’s signature relaxed fit, designed for ease of movement and comfort, while maintaining a highly stylish appearance.
    Brunello Cucinelli Corduroy Jacket
    As it is a ready-made item, it comes with a tag for writing your name and the date of purchase. MTM items feature the purchaser’s name and the name of the artisan responsible for this piece.

    Introduction.

    The Brunello Cucinelli corduroy jacket featured here is a so-called blazer style featuring metal buttons. It was the first piece of Brunello Cucinelli clothing I ever purchased, and it was this jacket that inspired me to start pairing jackets with jeans – something I hadn’t done before. Consequently, I hold it in high regard.

    Smart casual

    About three years ago, I was asked to help out at a commemorative ceremony for the club I belonged to. The dress code for the ceremony was smart casual, but as I rarely wear suits these days, I didn’t own a recent one. I thought I’d attend in a suit I’d bought at Tie-Your-Tie twenty years prior. Amidst this, a plan suddenly arose to produce button-down shirts as promotional items and have members purchase them for charity.

    A friend asked me to handle the button-down shirt sales at the ceremony reception. For the sales role, I needed to wear one myself, and to serve as a display example, I required a blazer rather than a suit.

    Initially, I thought buying a navy blazer and grey trousers from Brooks Brothers would suffice. However, navy blazers had become quite trendy that year, and my size was sold out.Given this situation, I urgently began searching for a blazer, but struggled to find one that suited my taste.

    It was during this search for a suitable blazer that I discovered the corduroy jacket by Brunello Cucinelli featured here. The primary reason for choosing this jacket was that it perfectly matched the smart casual dress code for the commemorative ceremony of the club I was attending, and it would showcase the novelty button-down shirt in the best possible light.

    Personally, I adore the combination of a navy blazer and grey trousers. Though I rarely have occasion to wear it, a piece of advice from a stylish senior colleague in my youth has stayed with me: ‘A blazer is a rather interesting jacket. When worn by a young person, it lends a composed air and makes one appear more mature; when worn later in life, it makes one look younger. It’s a rather useful garment, so it’s good to own one.’

    Brunello Cucinelli

    This is a brand I’ve featured several times on this blog. Naturally, the quality of materials and craftsmanship is exceptional, but what truly impresses me is their approach beyond mere fashion – proposing a high-quality lifestyle based on clothing that transcends mere fashion. I adore their stance: while their garments possess a distinct presence, they maintain a restrained, understated style; their shop staff offer a friendly, approachable service; and they demonstrate an exceptionally high level of professionalism in styling and how the clothes are worn.

    The price point is considerably high, so it’s not something I personally purchase lightly. Another characteristic is that the price range naturally attracts a correspondingly older demographic. Despite the high price point, it is beloved worldwide and boasts many devoted repeat customers. This is Brunello Cucinelli. A phrase that came up in conversation with a staff member I know well perfectly encapsulates the brand’s stance, so I’ll share it here.

    Though extremely expensive and a renowned brand, Mr Brunello Cucinelli – who frequently appears in press to shape the brand image – is just an ordinary chap. His style or looks aren’t particularly striking, His remarkable social activism and the dignity encompassing his lifestyle, coupled with the fact that even as he ages and no longer possesses the physique of his youth, he remains an exemplar of wearing clothes elegantly and stylishly, perfectly encapsulates the essence of Brunello Cucinelli’s garments.

    It’s not merely about being high-quality clothing that an ordinary chap can wear. Even when worn by someone with great style, it remains stylish yet somehow restrained, exuding dignity and intelligence.

    This very dignity and intellect are the essence of Brunello Cucinelli. Ultimately, it is clothing that expresses the wearer’s identity and maximises that identity. When worn by the young, it conveys fresh youthfulness and coolness; when worn by those of a certain age, it expresses the dignity and intellect born of life experience.

    Clothing, one of the three fundamental elements of human life alongside food and shelter, is something one must wear to live. Reading deeper, this clothing also serves to define the individual’s existence within society.

    The apparel industry, a colossal sector, could be said to be fiercely competing over how to express this individual existence within society. However, in the internet age, attitudes towards clothing have shifted. Certain words and keywords have become paramount, and traditions built over many years, the optimal solutions for clothing, and even individuality itself, are now consumed as short-lived trends.

    Brunello Cucinelli stands as the brand furthest removed from these fleeting trends. Its premium pricing stems from the finest materials and the quality crafted by Italy’s most skilled artisans. It embodies a commitment to human dignity, ensuring fair returns for all workers and stakeholders. It demonstrates social responsibility and purpose by revitalising its declining hometown village, wishing happiness for all involved. It extends the same treatment to its sales staff in distant Japan. and by staffing each store with personnel possessing skills equivalent to Italian artisans, providing high-level care for sold garments. This practice encourages customers to cherish and use their fine purchases for a long time.

    All this takes considerable time. This creates a temporal flow distinct from the current one, an elegant passage of time that becomes more palpable the deeper one understands Brunello Cucinelli’s garments.

    By persistently creating intrinsic value rather than superficial, easily visible or audible values, the company elevates both its own worth and that of the products it handles. This establishes Brunello Cucinelli as an established enterprise with a distinct creative ethos, differing from contemporary mass-market and marketing values. Its garments embody quality and fashionability while remaining understated, yet are meticulously designed to enhance the wearer’s individuality. One can also sense a unified philosophy stemming from the production process and underlying concept.

    This may sound somewhat formal, but I personally hold Brunello Cucinelli in high regard for its overall corporate stance. This is why I am such a great fan of Brunello Cucinelli and why I consider it worth making a little extra effort to wear their garments.

    Brunello Cucinelli’s style

    Whilst I have previously featured Brunello Cucinelli’s spring/summer items on this blog, I had yet to showcase their autumn/winter pieces. Although I introduced jackets in the spring/summer styles, I did not own any trousers, so this time I am presenting a style where the jacket and trousers are worn as a set.

    When considering Brunello Cucinelli’s product range, their cashmere knitwear immediately springs to mind. I own several pieces myself; the quality is exceptionally high. Being lightweight and warm is a given, but their remarkable durability is particularly noteworthy. This durability becomes apparent when wearing them in the car with a seatbelt fastened. Other cashmere knits inevitably develop pilling where the seatbelt presses against the fabric. After wearing them, meticulous care with a stone brush is required to remove this pilling.

    Brunello Cucinelli’s cashmere knitwear possesses a durability that resists pilling in these seatbelt-contact areas far better than other cashmere knits. While the exact reason for this resistance to pilling is unclear, it is likely due to techniques such as the twisting of the yarn. One might understand this if the cashmere knit were slightly stiffer, but Brunello Cucinelli’s cashmere knit is soft yet possesses this durability that resists pilling.

    The brand also offers suits and coats crafted from cashmere and premium wool, all featuring exceptionally high-level tailoring. Depending on your preferred pattern and intended occasion, you can select the fabric pattern, thickness, and whether to wear it as a set or individually. Each piece delivers a high-quality, comfortable, and stylish look.

    For autumn/winter seasons, Brunello Cucinelli frequently employs corduroy, offering several styles where both top and bottom are coordinated in corduroy. The hallmark of Brunello Cucinelli’s corduroy is its exceptionally soft and lightweight fabric; wearing it with the typical expectations of corduroy, one is surprised by its remarkable comfort.

    Brunello Cucinelli also pays particular attention to the colours of his garments, drawing inspiration from the natural world for his colour palettes. The black corduroy I purchased is a distinctive shade of black from Brunello Cucinelli; you won’t find another black jacket quite like it.

    While dark navy is the standard for blazers, pairing this one with matching trousers in a similar fabric creates a black-and-white ensemble that avoids excessive formality, achieving a relaxed yet polished style. Shooting by the sea made me realise it also lends itself to a nautical aesthetic.

    I’ve paired this suit with a suitably faded Brunello Cucinelli Western shirt. This Western shirt isn’t made from denim fabric either; like a regular shirt, it’s crafted from a slightly thicker, exceptionally soft cotton twill fabric. Looking at photos of myself wearing this combination, it feels entirely natural. While one wouldn’t typically pair a black jacket with a blue shirt, this combination is remarkably cohesive and refined.

    Thus, even before considering my own personal opinion, the style proposed by Brunello Cucinelli is exceptionally refined. The tolerance of each individual item to be combined in any manner means that even when building a collection of Brunello Cucinelli garments, there are no pieces that become unwearable. This, I believe, is precisely why the brand enjoys such a devoted following of repeat customers.

    How to wear Brunello Cucinelli

    As I favour vintage and Americana-style casual wear, I often combine Brunello Cucinelli pieces with my everyday vintage items. For slightly less formal occasions, this style suits me perfectly.My approach to clothing involves considering where and with whom I’ll be meeting. For instance, I wouldn’t wear the Brunello Cucinelli pieces featured here for a stroll around the neighbourhood (it would be a bit too much, frankly).

    While Brunello Cucinelli is often called resort wear, in Japan, few people have a resort lifestyle like wealthy foreigners. Most wear it as urban attire, wouldn’t you agree?

    For slightly formal occasions where a playful touch is acceptable – ceremonies, parties, or slightly upmarket dining – I adopt the style proposed by Brunello Cucinelli as mentioned above. (Such occasions are infrequent in daily life, so I do feel a touch self-conscious.)

    For slightly more casual outings—such as shopping or a relaxed meal with my wife in bustling areas like Ginza or Omotesando—I won’t wear head-to-toe Brunello Cucinelli. Instead, I’ll pair the bottom with jeans like Levi’s or different innerwear. Brunello Cucinelli garments possess a remarkable tolerance that allows them to maintain their composure even in such relaxed combinations.

    Below are a few photos showing how it can be worn. I’m afraid I’m no model, so they may not be very helpful, but I hope they give you a sense of the style.

    Wearing example.

    [ How to Wear Brunello Cucinelli Corduroy Jacket ]

    The photos in this article were not taken well, so they have been re-shot in part 2.

    Brunello Cucinelli Corduroy Jacket
    While not made-to-measure, the fit in the finer details is not perfect; however, even off the rack, the style is clean and the ease of movement is a characteristic feature of Brunello Cucinelli garments in general. In this style of wear, all buttons are fastened.
    Brunello Cucinelli Corduroy Jacket
    This 1950s corduroy shirt with its intriguing pattern is paired with a cashmere knit beanie in the same colour. While 1950s corduroy shirts were mass-produced items fundamentally different in concept from Brunello Cucinelli, they somehow blend together beautifully. This combination of black and white monochrome with a red-based patterned piece creates a surprisingly harmonious colour scheme. The fact that all the items worn are corduroy may also be a key factor in achieving such cohesion.
    Brunello Cucinelli Corduroy Jacket
    The shirt and jeans, aside from the jacket, are vintage pieces from the 1950s, yet they come together rather well. Exposing the large loop-button collar, characteristic of 1950s shirts, lends a rock-inspired feel (the base image being 1950s rock musicians like Elvis Presley). The overall look is also reminiscent of 1980s fashion inspired by the 1950s.
    Brunello Cucinelli Corduroy Jacket
    Whilst difficult to convey in photographs, this exceptionally soft corduroy offers a gentle appearance and a soft feel, making it remarkably easy to move in whilst providing warmth.
    Brunello Cucinelli Corduroy Jacket
    I’ve only changed the bottoms, but they pair well with items like Levi’s 501XX jeans. As they aren’t overly assertive, they create a very easy-to-wear style.
    Brunello Cucinelli Corduroy Jacket
    Paired with German Coats’ slim-fit cotton five-pocket trousers. This style evokes a 1960s Ivy League look, offering a slightly more refined combination than jeans. Tucking in the shirt creates a neater finish; as the shirt is a casual item, this pairs more naturally than with trousers, making it an easy everyday style.
    Brunello Cucinelli Corduroy Jacket
    Brunello Cucinelli shirts are of such fine quality that they retain their elegance even when worn casually. They offer a truly luxurious experience as high-quality everyday wear. Whilst similar in design to other Western shirts I own, they are entirely distinct – casual yet devoid of the rough elements found in vintage or Americana styles.

    Details.

    • Metal six-button closure
    • Peaked lapel
    • Slit pocket
    • Ticket pocket and chest pocket
    • Cuffs with true buttonholes and four metal buttons
    • Cupro lining throughout
    • Two buttoned inner pockets and pen pocket
    • Side vents at back Drop 7
    • 100% cotton

    Combinations.

    Conclusion.

    The corduroy jacket introduced here became the catalyst for me wearing Brunello Cucinelli garments. This jacket served as a turning point, prompting me to rethink my previous approach to clothing.

    It was the first time I had not only gone through the standard process of buying and wearing clothes, but also considered and resonated with the philosophy and ideas behind them. While I’d had a few intuitive understandings when wearing other brands in the past, Brunello Cucinelli was the first where I consciously thought about the reasons and felt convinced. This feeling stems more from the comfort and ease of movement than the styling, and is largely due to the high-quality materials and excellent craftsmanship.

    Brunello Cucinelli’s stance – where the creators, without sparing effort or expense, prioritise the customer who will wear the product, yet deliberately refrain from flaunting this act, leaving evaluation to the product and service itself – embodies the truth of the once-trendy term “hospitality=Omote-Nashi”. I feel this philosophy is the very embodiment of true luxury.

    Shop

    My Brunello Cucinelli items are purchased at the Brunello Cucinelli Ginza store.
    As I mentioned in my article on field jackets, it is a wonderful store not only for its products and stores, but also for the people involved.
    For more information about the store, please refer to article on Field Jacket.

    [ Brunello Cucinelli Field Jacket’s Article]

    Brunello Cucinelli official website

  • Wrangler Western Shirt (New Air Vintage)

    Wrangler Western Shirt (New Air Vintage)

    This is a Western-style denim shirt from Wrangler, a brand that began as a Western wear label. Wrangler’s Western shirts are iconic pieces of men’s fashion, frequently featured in Western films and favoured by Steve McQueen.

    The Wrangler Western shirt featured here was sourced from the United States by New Air Vintage, a renowned vintage clothing shop in Osaka (though the shop itself is no longer operating, its owner is reportedly still active as a buyer). It has been tastefully repaired.

    Wrangler Western Shirt (New Air Vintage)
    This is a Wrangler Western shirt repaired by New Air Vintage in Osaka.
    Wrangler Western Shirt (New Air Vintage)
    The patchwork fabric used for the patches also makes clever use of fabric from old clothes.

    Introduction.

    I’ve always adored vintage clothing and the style commonly referred to as Americana. In my mid-twenties, I favoured a slightly roughened take on American Traditional (often called Americana). I’d pair blue button-down shirts, Oxford shirts, denim shirts, and the faded Western shirts featured here with crisp chinos and sneakers like Adidas Stan Smiths. It wasn’t strictly orthodox. I drifted away from this style for a while, but recently the urge to wear it again has struck, and I’m hunting for various items. 

    Back then, my favourite was TUBE, designed by Hisao Saito. It took American traditional as its starting point, building clothes through sophisticated combinations. They had a shop in Shibuya’s PARCO, and the staff were exceptionally kind—spending ample time helping me choose even a single shirt was a major reason I grew fond of the brand.

    The Wrangler Western shirt featured here is one repaired by New Air Vintage, experts in American vintage, using their unique sensibility. It perfectly matched my taste, so I bought it and wear it frequently.

    The Dickies painter’s trousers worn with it this time, and the painter’s trousers paired with the Dior denim shirt last time, are also New Air Vintage repair pieces. I similarly own Carhartt work trousers and an M65 jacket that have undergone their repair work.

    Western-style shirt

    My image of a Western shirt is that of an American dad. For my generation, it evokes the archetypal father figure from 20th-century American home dramas and films – someone in his late thirties to forties, grilling at barbecues or playing catch with his kids. They typically have a more robust build than the average Japanese man, wearing Western shirts casually. The fading isn’t fashion-conscious, but rather a lived-in patina from regular washing in a tumble dryer – a sense of wear and tear born of daily life. It’s an item that embodies a paternal quality, worn as an everyday staple.

    Steve McQueen embodied the American hero and tough guy, yet remained somehow universal and real. While not quite the same, there exists a certain archetype of masculinity that every American man possesses, and the Western shirt is the image of the shirt such a McQueen-like man would naturally wear.

    Made from denim fabric, the new colour is navy blue, but as it is worn and washed, the colour naturally fades, turning into what is commonly called a light blue.

    I suppose I’m something of a blue jeans enthusiast myself, having largely stopped wearing casual trousers other than jeans. Western shirts pair well with jeans (being a cowboy uniform, that’s only natural), and when I wear them casually, I often create contrast by varying the degree of fading between top and bottom, avoiding a full matching set. It’s an interesting anecdote that Wrangler is the originator of the term “jeans”.

    This year, I’ve developed something of a personal craze for wearing Western shirts. What’s different from before is that I’m now wearing them more often with khaki bottoms like work trousers or chinos, rather than blue jeans.

    The appeal of denim Western shirts lies in their effortless wearability, requiring little thought about fashion. In my case, many are vintage pieces or originals that have faded over time, so I simply wash them without much fuss.

    I don’t bother with ironing; much like a freshly washed button-down shirt, I just give the collar, cuffs, and front placket a good stretch before hanging them to dry, then wear them straight away.

    The sizing of Western shirts

    The Western shirt I wear isn’t one of those currently fashionable oversized styles with dropped shoulders, nor is it a slim-fit, just-right size with an Italian flavour like those exhibited at Pitti. Instead, I wear a classic style with shoulders that are almost true to size (though perhaps 1-2 centimetres larger by modern standards) and a slightly wider body.

    Originally a masculine garment originating from American sartorial history, it offers a comfortable fit even with a shoulder width that’s just right, thanks to its relatively generous body width. This makes it an extremely versatile piece, suitable for wearing either as an inner layer or as an outer garment.

    New Air Vintage

    Originally, having run a vintage clothing shop, possess an almost obsessive knowledge of vintage garments. For repairs, I use fabric from unwearable vintage pieces as a base, creating a patchwork effect that transcends mere mending to become a distinct style.
    Over the last decade or so, vintage items have been re-evaluated, and it’s certainly positive that quality pieces are now circulating in the market. However, the downside is that prices have become excessively inflated, meaning some items are no longer suitable for everyday wear.

    The vintage garments repaired by New Air Vintage are reasonably priced and require no special care, such as delicate washing, making them ideal for everyday wear – a definite plus.

    However, as it’s a small operation, the selection is limited and sizes aren’t particularly varied, so finding something you can actually wear might prove challenging.

    I discovered New Air Vintage’s vintage clothing through Post78, a shop frequently featured on my blog. The owner possesses excellent taste; occasionally popping into the shop reveals many pieces that appear ordinary at first glance yet are cleverly crafted items that make fashion connoisseurs sigh with admiration. With a core price range that isn’t excessively high and many items suitable for everyday wear, it’s an indispensable shop for my passion for dressing.

    Wearing example.

    Wrangler Western Shirt (New Air Vintage)
    I’m pairing them with Dickies painter trousers.
    Wrangler Western Shirt (New Air Vintage)
    Whilst not a design-focused product, the silhouette from behind is also sharply tailored.

    Details.

    • 100% cotton
    • Denim – approximately 7 ounces
    • Shoulder yoke
    • Snap fasteners
    • Flap pockets on both chest

    Combinations.

    • Western shirt: Wrangler (New Air Vintage)
    • T-shirt, green: Dolce & Gabbana
    • Painter’s trousers: Dickies (New Air Vintage)
    • Hat: LEUCHTFEUE
    • Watch: IWC Mark11 RAF
    • Sunglasses: Oakley
    • Belt: The Real McCoy’s
    • Shoes: Visvim

    Conclusion.

    This time we introduced Wrangler’s Western shirt. Characterised by its shoulder yoke, double chest flap pockets, and snap buttons, it’s instantly recognisable as a Western shirt when worn. Yet it’s such a universal piece that you can wear it much like a button-down shirt. The denim fabric, around 7oz, is neither too thick nor too thin – thicker than a twill shirt, yet softens beautifully with wear, making it exceptionally comfortable.

    Pairing a Western shirt with khaki trousers might not strictly fall under the American Trad category. As it’s a garment with deep roots in America, and considering colour schemes, the combination of a blue top with khaki bottoms represents my personal image of American Trad – hence my deliberate use of that term.

    Fashion categorisation is rather arbitrary, and genres often seem to be more about the terminology than anything else. I reckon the key to enjoying it most is simply wearing what you like without worrying too much about labels.

    Shop

    The M47 Field Jacket introduced this time was purchased at Post78.
    Post78 is a shop that handles a lot of high quality, long-lasting items that the owner, who loves clothes, is particular about. I also enjoy talking about fashion with the owner, who loves clothes, when I shop.

    Post78

    “Post78” Global shipping is not supported. Come to the shop when you come to Japan.

  • Dior Over Shirt (Black Denim)

    Dior Over Shirt (Black Denim)

    A vintage-washed denim shirt crafted from a substantial 13.5-ounce fabric. Featuring Dior’s signature clean, straight-cut lines, it offers an impeccably flattering silhouette when worn.

    Dior Over Shirt (Black Denim)
    Dior Over Shirt (Black Denim) Vintage-processed black denim shirt
    Dior Over Shirt (Black Denim)
    Dior Over Shirt (Black Denim) Leather patch featuring the Dior logo

    Introduction.

    Twenty years ago, I purchased and cherished shirts and knitwear from the Edie Slimane era of Dior Homme at Barneys New York. However, as I grew older, I wore them less frequently and eventually passed them on to a younger colleague. After that, I had no further connection with Dior items until recently, when I purchased a piece for the first time in two decades and have been wearing it often.

    This time I’m introducing a denim shirt, though I’ve also bought a pea coat and slim jeans, which I’ll cover in a separate article. I’d wondered why Dior resonated so well with my current style, and actually wearing it has impressed me: the superb craftsmanship is a given, but it’s because Dior is a top maison that has firmly established its own unique style.

    Speaking of Dior, its devoted wearer was Karl Lagerfeld, the Emperor of Fashion. A key insight gained was understanding why Lagerfeld – approaching his sixties and a fashion industry heavyweight – favoured Dior under the then-unknown Edie Slimane. Wearing it myself now, nearing sixty, has brought clarity to that choice. (This remains purely my personal view and speculation.)

    Dior Homme

    From the mid-1990s to the early 2000s, the reconstruction of iconic brands from the past became a major trend. Starting with Tom Ford at Gucci and Marc Jacobs at Louis Vuitton, new brands like Dolce & Gabbana and Jil Sander, rooted in tailoring yet introducing fresh values to fashion, began gaining recognition. Men’s fashion shifted from its previous emphasis on formality and tradition, incorporating playful and showy elements, transforming into a societal trend.

    Amidst this, Dior, which had not previously developed a menswear line, brought in Hedi Slimane to launch one. At the time, John Galliano was creating a highly structured and flamboyant world for the womenswear, so the fashion industry watched closely to see what Dior’s menswear line would become.

    A new line, Dior Homme, was created and collections were presented. Hedi Slimane’s minimalist worldview, stripped of all excess, was shocking. The core palette was black, grey, and navy, with styles defined by extremely slim, linear lines devoid of excess. The silhouette could be described simply as constructing elongated rectangular lines. This approach stood in stark contrast to other brands, which utilised new materials and tailoring techniques to construct three-dimensional body lines (such as inverted triangular silhouettes with defined waists).

    Edie Slimane’s Dior sent shockwaves through the fashion industry. One of its defining moments was when Karl Lagerfeld, designer for Chanel and Fendi and often dubbed the Emperor of Fashion, began appearing in public constantly wearing Dior Homme suits as if they were his uniform.

    The fact that the fashion emperor undertook a weight loss of 40kg to wear Dior Homme’s tailored suits was a shocking event, demonstrating the immense impact of the brand that even the fashion emperor was willing to undergo physical transformation to wear.

    The Dior Homme items I purchased at the time were recommended and bought at Barneys, which I frequented often. However, as they were mostly shirts and knitwear, and the outerwear or denim that would later become iconic pieces felt too slim for my sensibilities at the time, I did not buy them.

    My impression of Dior Homme at the time was that its tight, linear lines were avant-garde, creating minimalist garments with a very sharp, fashion-conscious edge. Based on my sensibilities then, I found them stylish but somewhat tedious to wear, and they weren’t the kind of clothes I would consider wearing regularly.

    As my impression of Dior’s clothes remained unchanged, I never contemplated wearing Dior garments myself.

    Wearing Dior beyond the age of sixty?

    Amidst changes in my living situation, I hadn’t bought any clothes for quite some time. When I finally decided to buy something after a long while, I discussed fashion with a junior colleague. It was then that she remarked,
    ‘Wouldn’t it be splendid to wear Dior clothes effortlessly at sixty?’
    The conversation then turned to anecdotes about Karl Lagerfeld.

    Given my current preferences, I had no interest whatsoever in high-end brands like Dior (I’m not particularly fond of that term; “top maison” feels more fitting if one wishes to express respect), so I hadn’t checked them out. However, after browsing their website, I’ve become curious about their current direction.

    It’s clear they’re maintaining the early Dior Homme aesthetic while offering timeless pieces of high quality. Among these, the denim shirt I’m introducing today particularly caught my eye.

    I’ll cover this in a separate article, but alongside the denim shirt, I’ve also purchased a pea coat and a pair of slim-fit black jeans.

    Dior overshirt

    The image of Dior Homme mentioned at the outset remains firmly intact. While incorporating some current trends, the style hasn’t changed much from the past, retaining its linear and minimalist aesthetic. As a vintage-processed black denim shirt, it pairs exceptionally well with chinos, work trousers, and even classic denim like 501s.

    Nowadays, vintage effects can be achieved using lasers, and the denim shirt featured here has undergone such laser-applied vintage treatment. The sizing is slightly oversized to incorporate current trends. For a deliberately loose, trend-conscious look, choose your usual size. If you prefer a slightly tighter fit, opting for one size down will provide a more tailored feel.

    I usually wear a size 46 as standard, but for this Dior overshirt I’ve chosen a size 44.

    Dior suggests wearing it as a set with matching double-knee denim work trousers, but I prefer pairing it with khaki or beige cotton trousers without creases rather than as a set.

    For this shoot, I’ve worn it with faded brown Dickies work trousers that have been repaired.

    I’ve always adored denim shirts and rotate five of them. As they’re all indigo, this black denim shirt I’ve acquired will prove invaluable.

    In the depths of winter, I layer a knit underneath; if it’s still cold, I add a down vest. It’s a brilliant piece that can be worn all year round except the height of summer. I’d love to photograph a winter style again when the opportunity arises.

    Though shaped like a denim shirt, its heavier weight makes it closer to a denim jacket than a shirt, leading to more frequent use as outerwear. At first glance, it appears to be a standard thick denim shirt, yet its construction showcases the quality expected of a top maison like Dior. The three-dimensional finish creates a pleasingly different impression when worn compared to how it looks on the hanger in-store.

    This superb denim shirt looks stylish whether buttoned up or worn casually unbuttoned.

    Wearing example.

    Dior Over Shirt (Black Denim)
    I’m pairing them with Dickies painter trousers.
    Dior Over Shirt (Black Denim)
    The silhouette from behind is also sharply defined, with the waist slightly cinched.
    Dior Over Shirt (Black Denim)
    Fastening the front buttons to wear it as a shirt creates a flattering silhouette, with a contemporary shorter length.
    Dior Over Shirt (Black Denim)
    It pairs well with items such as Levi’s 501 jeans.

    Details.

    • 100% cotton
    • Heavyweight denim – 13.5 oz
    • Laser fade finish
    • Vintage finish

    Combinations.

    • Denim shirt: Dior
    • T-shirt, green: Dolce & Gabbana
    • T-shirt, orange: Burberry Prorsum
    • Painter’s trousers: Dickies (New Air Vintage)
    • Denim: Levi’s Vintage Collection 1947 One Wash
    • Hat: LEUCHTFEUE
    • Watch: IWC Mark11 RAF
    • Sunglasses: Oakley
    • Belt: The Real McCoy’s
    • Shoes: Visvim

    Conclusion.

    This Dior denim shirt was purchased after hearing about how one might elegantly wear Dior upon reaching one’s sixtieth birthday. Rather than the fashion-forward styling one might associate with Dior’s image, I wear it with the same casual ease as my everyday vintage denim shirts. Thanks to Dior’s superb design and style, pairing it with heavily patched work trousers still yields a remarkably fashionable and interesting look.

    As for why Karl Lagerfeld favoured Hedi Slimane’s Dior, the men’s line stemming from Dior Homme shares a common thread of street fashion elements. However, Slimane’s interpretation of streetwear leans less towards a macho aesthetic and more towards an introspective quality, evoking a certain delicacy and fragility.

    This slenderness and fragility are not meant negatively; adolescent or youthful males invariably possess this quality. This image of slenderness links to the slim, elongated rectangular silhouette. While this image and style represent adolescent boys and youth, one could consider that Karl Lagerfeld sought this youthfulness (as inspiration). Reading deeper, I suspect he perceived eternal youth in Dior’s garments.

    This is purely my personal view, but as someone approaching sixty who has worn Dior, I sensed a somewhat boyish, introspective, adolescent quality. This leads me to feel that perhaps, by wearing Dior, Karl Lagerfeld attained a kind of eternal youth in a spiritual sense.

    Shop

    The denim shirt featured here was purchased at House of Dior Ginza, located within Ginza SIX. On this occasion, I was shown the item beforehand and returned later to make the purchase. Having booked an appointment with the intention to buy, I was shown into an available private fitting room, allowing for a leisurely shopping experience.

    When I conveyed my interest in certain items to the sales assistant, they brought not only the discussed pieces but also other versatile options, allowing me to visualise how they might be worn while selecting.

    The assistant was exceptionally kind and, having extensive experience in fashion, provided spot-on styling advice. We also enjoyed pleasant, fashion-related conversation, making it a thoroughly satisfying shopping experience.

    The store is spacious, offering both men’s and women’s collections, with a comprehensive range of bags and accessories. Why not pop in with your wife on a day off?

    Dior Official Website

  • Valextra Zip Purse 12 Cards

    Valextra Zip Purse 12 Cards

    It is said that it is better to change your wallet regularly according to feng shui. I recently replaced my wallet after seven years, and chose a zip wallet that is useful in this cashless era. The wallet I selected is the Zip Purse 12 Card, which can hold 12 cards, sold by the Italian company Valextra.

    Valextra

    I regularly replace my wallet, but I had never considered purchasing a high-end brand wallet before, so this is my first time choosing one. Prior to this, I used a Whitehouse Cox bridle leather long zip wallet, which had aged beautifully over seven years.Since wallets are leather products, I had planned to purchase the same Whitehouse Cox model again due to its ease of use and maintenance.

    However, Whitehouse Cox has ceased operations, and while a Japanese company has acquired the brand rights and is attempting to resume operations, no concrete plans for restarting production have been announced yet. As a result, I decided to explore other options and selected the Valextra Zip Purse 12 Card, which I am introducing today.

    A brand that is not well known but is of high quality.

    The image of the Valextra brand comes from a senior colleague who took care of me about 20 years ago. I can’t remember the model name, but it was a slightly large zip wallet with a handle, which my senior colleague used regularly, so it stuck in my memory.

    This senior colleague spent much of his time overseas, mainly in North America, and led a lifestyle that was unconventional and beyond my reach, in terms of how he enjoyed himself and travelled. When we ate together, he would pay without even offering to contribute, always covering the entire bill in a very smart manner. However, instead of carrying a bag, he always had a Valextra zip wallet with a handle, in which he kept everything from cash to credit cards, cash cards, his passport, and driver’s licence.

    Since it belonged to a senior colleague who lived a life that was beyond my reach, I felt intimidated and lost interest in the Valextra brand for a while. It was also this senior colleague who taught me about Barolo, an Italian wine.

    My impression of Valextra was that, since it was chosen by a senior colleague who had travelled the world and broadened his horizons, it must be a product with excellent quality and well-thought-out usability, even before considering its brand image. However, I thought that it might be too daunting for someone like me to actually use it, so Valextra faded from my mind.

    Wallet options

    The quality of Whitehouse Cox wallets is evident in their high-quality bridle leather construction, and with the cream provided for bridle leather, regular maintenance will give them a unique patina that differs from when they are new. The construction is solid and practical, typical of a British company, and the more you use it, the more you will grow to love it. It is an excellent wallet and leather product.

    The drawbacks are that the bridle leather is quite stiff, making it difficult to remove cards from the card holder and causing cards to rub against the zip when opening the wallet, potentially causing scratches. Additionally, the wallet’s opening is not very wide, making it challenging to neatly store bills. Furthermore, if you add more cards or store them in pockets other than the card holder, the wallet may lose its shape.

    Even so, I feel more attached to leather products that I have nurtured myself, and the more I use them, the more I grow to love them.

    I begin searching for another wallet that I can grow attached to. The junior colleague featured in the Berluti article recommends Berluti’s zip wallet and Louis Vuitton’s Zippy. Since I cannot imagine myself owning a high-end brand wallet, I consider other options such as Camus Forne’s zip wallet, known for its watch straps, or Enri Begrin’s zip wallet.Berluti and Louis Vuitton wallets are indeed top-tier luxury brands, and seeing the actual products in person reveals they are far superior to what you see online.

    I am interested in the Berluti double zip wallet, but although it is well-made and an excellent product, it is a little large, so I realise that it would be impractical for use in the bag I usually carry.

    Camuflore is also an excellent product, but the desired colour is not yet available, so it has been removed from the list of candidates. The Enlibegrin zip wallet has a strong handmade feel, which I like, but it only has four card holders, so it has been removed from the list of candidates.

    With no clear candidate in mind, I recall a wallet used by a respected senior colleague in the past. Although I feel a sense of awe and reverence towards it, considering that 20 years have passed, I think it might be appropriate for me to own one now, so I research Valextra. I recall that they had a storefront in Ginza, but upon checking their official website, I find that they no longer have a storefront and instead operate as a tenant in department stores and other commercial facilities.

    It’s also available at Yurakucho Hankyu Men’s, so I’ll go check it out right away.

    Famous items selected by experienced experts

    We visit Valextra at Hankyu Men’s and are shown their wallets. There are two types of wallets, the Round Zip 12 Card and the Zip Purse 12 Card, each available in a variety of colours.

    The Round Zip 12 Card wallet features a zip-style coin pocket in the centre and bill compartments on both sides that fold out like an accordion, similar to the Whitehouse Cox wallet, but with the difference that it can hold 12 cards.

    The Zip Pouch 12 Card differs from a standard zip wallet in that it does not have a zip-style coin pocket in the centre or an accordion fold, allowing for independent pockets on both sides for bills and other items. It can hold six cards on each side.

    Both are well-made, with Valextra’s signature edge finishing meticulously crafted. The card slots are cut into the brand’s iconic V shape, making it easier to remove cards compared to traditional zip wallets.

    The surface is embossed leather, but it is softer than it looks, feels good in your hand, and is resistant to scratches.

    The size is well thought out, measuring 21 cm in length, 11.5 cm in height, and 2 cm in thickness, providing ample storage space. The height of 11.5 cm allows you to store your passport in one of the pockets.

    Both are very attractive, but the major difference is that the Zip Pouch 12 Card opens 180 degrees. This feature makes it easier to take out cards, so I decided on the Zip Pouch 12 Card as it suits my needs better.

    I went to look at wallets with my wife, but she has been decluttering her belongings recently and decided that she only needs a few credit cards and some cash, so she chose a wallet with a coin pocket that can hold six cards.

    My wife has been using a Hermès Silk D’Or zip wallet for many years, and for the past few years she has been using a tiny beaded Monile series zip wallet by Brunello Cucinelli. However, she wanted something a little more compact, so she saw this coin purse with six card slots and decided to buy it.

    I chose black, but there are various colours available for women. Valextra is known for its meticulous edge finishing, which is very beautiful, so I think choosing a colour with black edges as an accent would be enjoyable. My wife chose yellow, and the soft, vibrant Italian yellow with black edges makes for a cute wallet.

    Valextra Zippurse 12Card
    Valextra Zippurse 12Card

    As you can see in the photo, it can hold six cards on one side and has a V-shaped cut-out that reflects the brand image. There is a coin pocket with a zip on one side, two bill compartments, and the other side can be used as a pocket, providing ample storage space.

    Unlike zip wallets with coin pockets in the centre, this wallet opens approximately 180 degrees, making it very easy to take out cards, which is why I chose this wallet.

    Valextra Zippurse 12Card
    Valextra Zippurse 12Card

    The packaging is very careful, so it would make a great gift.

    I wrote an article about the iPhone 16 Pro last time, and the photos shown here were taken with the iPhone 16 Pro.

    Actual storage

    Valextra Zippurse 12Card
    Valextra Zippurse 12Card

    When you insert the cards, the V-shaped cut of the card holder becomes clearly visible. I have been a fan of AMEX cards for 25 years and use four types: two corporate cards, one personal card, and one personal business card, each for different purposes.The card types are as follows: one corporate card is Platinum, the other corporate card is Green, the personal card is Centurion, and the personal business card is Green. American Express is an excellent credit card company that has built a wide range of services for its customers over the years, many of which have been pioneered by American Express and later adopted by other card companies. Since this article is about wallets, I will omit further details, but I would like to write about them in a future article.

    The photo has been omitted, but on the opposite side, you can store transportation cards, driver’s licences, bank cash cards, My Number cards, social insurance cards, etc., and arrange the cards for easy use according to their purpose. The storage locations are fixed, so you can quickly take out the cards. The moderate softness of the leather, the careful edge finishing, and the V-shaped cut make it very easy to take out and store cards.

    Detail

    Excerpt from Valextra official website

    Inspired by the vintage-inspired design of a round zip wallet, this design features luxurious leather and Italian craftsmanship.The interior features 12 credit card holders with the brand’s signature V-shaped cut, two compartments, and a zippered coin case. The lining is made of soft leather. The edges, known as ‘coba,’ are hand-finished with multiple layers of Valestra’s proprietary dye ‘Costa,’ then polished to a smooth finish.

    Size：21×11.5x2cm
    *Due to manual processing, sizes and weights may vary slightly.

    Conclusion

    I have always loved leather goods, particularly bridle leather and cordovan, and have been using wallets made from such materials. However, the brand I had been using, Whitehouse Cox, ceased operations, so I began searching for a new wallet and eventually came across the Valextra Zip Purse 12 Card, which I am introducing today.Unlike the wallets typically chosen by leather enthusiasts like myself, this wallet combines functionality, meticulous craftsmanship, and a focus on the leather and dyes used, while also incorporating playful elements for a fashionable touch. It is a wallet I would not have chosen before, but it offers exceptional functionality and is perfectly suited for the cashless era.

    I had a vague idea about Valextra because a senior colleague I used to work with used it, but I never imagined that I would end up using it myself 20 years after first learning about it, so I decided to write an article about it.

    Shop

    The Valextra Zip Purse 12 Card featured in this article was purchased at the Valextra store in the Hankyu Men’s Building in Yurakucho.The Hankyu Men’s Store offers a better shopping experience than the flagship store, as the products are easier to view and try on, allowing you to explore a wide range of items. The Valextra staff are extremely friendly and provide detailed explanations while showing you various products. Even if an item is not displayed in the show window, they have it in stock, so you can request specific products or colours to find the perfect match for you.

    The actual products are even better than the photos on the online shop, with a nice texture and just the right softness. Every item feels very well-made when you hold it in your hands. The bags and other leather goods are also very well-designed, with great functionality and texture, making this a brand that is highly recommended for those who want leather products with high craftsmanship. The dyeing technique is also excellent, resulting in leather products with beautiful colours. The product lineup is enjoyable for both men and women, so why not take a look with your wife on the weekend?

    Valextra Online Store

  • iPhone16 Pro

    iPhone16 Pro

    Although there have been improvements in performance and functionality, I feel that this is a prototype of the next-generation iPhone designed to meet the demands of the AI era.

    iPhone16 Pro
    iPhone16 Pro

    iPhone

    Smartphones have continued to evolve, and even the iPhone, which I used to upgrade every two years, has been in use for five years without feeling the need for an upgrade since switching to the iPhone 11 Pro Max. After five years of use, with some battery degradation and the end of the iOS update cycle, I decided to upgrade to the iPhone 16 Pro this year.

    Although there have been improvements in performance and functionality, there is nothing particularly innovative compared to previous models. This is because smartphones have reached a stage of stability in terms of performance, and although there are definite improvements every year, the changes are only slight in terms of user experience.

    In terms of usability, I feel the improved responsiveness, battery life, camera and image/video performance, and personally, the speed of iCloud synchronisation and the optimised Wi-Fi and 5G connection speeds definitely make me feel like I’ve experienced five years of evolution.

    Having upgraded my device for the first time in five years, I can definitely feel the improvements in responsiveness and other hardware aspects. If you are currently using an iPhone 14 or earlier model and are considering upgrading for overall performance improvements, I would recommend this model.

    However, the price of high-performance smartphones has been rising rapidly in recent years, with models exceeding 200,000 yen now available. Therefore, we recommend this model to those who are satisfied with the overall performance and price.

    If you are using a model from the 12 series or later and are considering an upgrade, it may be better to wait and see how Apple Intelligence develops in the future. If you are using a model from the 12 series or later, you may not feel a significant difference in performance, so there is no urgent need to purchase immediately.

    Purpose of smartphone use

    I use my smartphone for a variety of purposes, including Apple’s native apps, communication tools such as email, SMS, and messenger apps, business tools such as Asana and Trello, schedule management using to-do apps like Things, household budget apps and banking apps, text editors like Bear, tech tools like Terminus, and music apps like Deezer.

    I use a Macbook as my PC, so the ability to synchronise data across devices using iCloud is a major factor in my decision to use an iPhone, as it allows me to access my data and IT environment even when I am away from home.

    As an aside, when using a smartphone, people are often surprised that I use flick input for text entry. Few people my age use flick input, so it surprises them, but I found that using flick input is similar to touch typing on a computer keyboard, so it became second nature to me. One of the advantages of flick input is that it is easy to use with one hand.

    I used voice input a little when I had an iPhone X, but I hardly use it now. Voice input is useful on my Apple Watch, but only for simple words, and I occasionally use it to reply to notifications on messenger apps.

    When I first used the voice call feature on my Apple Watch, I was reminded of a scene from a children’s special effects programme I watched on TV when I was a child. In the programme, the main character gave commands to Giant Robot by saying, ‘Fly, Giant Robot!’ into his watch. When I used the voice call feature on my Apple Watch, I was moved by the fact that the technology I had imagined as something used by humans in the future in a children’s programme on TV had become a reality right before my eyes.

    Convenient Magsafe

    While MagSafe charging has been supported as a charging method for iPhone 12 and later models, this is my first time using MagSafe charging as I previously used an iPhone 11 Pro Max. I am currently charging my iPhone 16 Pro using MagSafe charging, and by using a 35W charging adapter, the charging speed has significantly improved.

    iPhone 11 Pro Max
    iPhone 11 Pro Max
    iPhone16 Pro & Magsafe
    iPhone16 Pro & Magsafe
    iPhone16 Pro & Magsafe
    iPhone16 Pro & Magsafe

    One of the advantages of MagSafe is that the charger attaches securely to the charging space using magnetism, so you can simply place it down to charge, eliminating the occasional problem of poor placement preventing proper charging.

    iPhone Pro and Pro Max

    The reason I upgraded from the previous Pro Max model to the Pro is that the Pro Max was difficult to operate with one hand due to the size of my hands. With the Pro, although not everything can be operated with one hand, it is possible to do so to some extent, resulting in an improved user experience.

    Before the 11 Pro Max, I used the iPhone X, which was easy to use in terms of size, but I wanted to try the large screen of the Pro Max, so I switched to the 11 Pro Max. However, after using it for five years, I realised that the Pro Max was a bit too large for me, so this time I opted for the Pro.

    The difference between the previous models, the 15 Pro and 15 Pro Max, was that only the Pro Max had a telephoto lens and optical lens, and there was a difference in battery life. However, in the 16 series, there is no difference in the optical lenses between the Pro and Pro Max. The battery life is still better in the larger Pro Max.

    iPhone 16 and iPhone16 Pro

    In terms of performance, there are differences between the iPhone 16 and iPhone 16 Pro, but considering actual use, the 16 is sufficient. The main reason I chose the 16 Pro is its titanium body, as I prioritised the feel in my hand when holding it. Although there is a price difference, considering the expected usage period, I felt the price difference was not significant, so I opted for the model with my preferred texture.

    The differences between the models include the external structure (titanium vs. aluminium), the protective glass used on the back, the USB-C port (USB 2 vs. USB 3), the A18 chip (Pro vs. standard), the number of GPU cores (5 vs. 6), the availability of an always-on display, the presence or absence of wide-angle and telephoto lenses, and the difference in macro image quality. Additionally, there are differences in the video recording capabilities when compared side by side.

    The structural differences are significant, and since they cannot be replaced later, we have chosen the Pro model made of titanium. Personally, I do not frequently take photos or videos with my smartphone, so this is not a priority for me. However, I believe the difference in photo and video quality would be significant for those who frequently post on social media.

    Although it is a modest feature, the always-on display consumes almost no battery power and displays the time.

    The difference between the 16 and 16 Pro is for those who frequently take photos and videos on their smartphones and want to make a difference in quality. In particular, the difference in the availability of telephoto, wide-angle, and macro lenses will result in differences in what can be photographed and the quality of the photos.

    Differences in chips and GPUs are also definitely reflected in the feel of the controls.

    The iPhone 15 Pro/Pro Max and later models are designed with the use of Apple Intelligence in mind, but since Japanese language support is not yet available, the extent to which users will benefit from this feature remains unknown.

    In conclusion, I feel that those who want to do various things on their smartphones or frequently use them and want to do various things will be more satisfied with the Pro.

    Pages: 1 2

  • S-Works Tarmac SL8

    S-Works Tarmac SL8

    About Specialized’s flagship S-Works Tarmac SL8 racing bike

    S-Works SL8
    S-Works SL8

    Introduction

    I’ve been neglecting my blog since I stopped having time to go out for photos due to changes in my living environment, but I have some articles I’ve been wanting to introduce, so I’m thinking of finding some time to gradually introduce them.

    This time, I’d like to introduce the S-Works Tarmac SL8, which I switched to from the Specialized Tarmac SL7 I introduced last summer. Ideally, I would have liked to introduce it together with cycle wear, cycling shoes, helmets, etc., after getting a bit more use out of it, but due to the fact that I haven’t had time to take photos, the photos are just of the bike.

    I made the switch from the Specialized Tarmac SL7 to the S-Works Tarmac SL8 in August 2023
    The main photos in this article are from when I took the bike out for a short ride in August 2023.

    Specialized road bike

    Specialized products are made up of a combination of complete bicycles and frames, with the parts you want to use selected and assembled. The SL8 I bought was a complete bicycle assembled with a frame of my choice. However, as the parts that Specialized assembles into complete bicycles are assembled with a frame of your choice, it is a semi-component structure that is similar to a complete bicycle.

    When I bought it, I had a choice of Shimano or SRAM components, and there were different frame colours available for the complete bike and the frame only, so I bought the complete bike because I liked the colour of the frame.

    Originally, road bikes are more strongly associated with training gear than as a general hobby, and are used in a different way to how road bike enthusiasts use them, such as for touring rides with friends or for competitions. The reason I chose white is that I often ride at night on national roads in rural areas where there are few cars, and I chose the colour white marble with a glossy finish because I thought it would be highly visible even on dark roads.

    The purpose of the purchase was to take on the challenge of a triathlon.

    Originally, S-Works road bikes are not intended for use by people like me, but rather for competitive cyclists. Specialized road bikes are already quite high-performance bikes, and while there are aspects that are over-specced for my own use, the reason I bought the latest high-performance S-Works SL8 model was because I decided to try my hand at triathlon.

    Triathlons are divided into classes, and the class I was going to try was called the Olympic Distance, which is made up of three events:

    • swimming (1.5km)
    • cycling (40km)
    • running (10km)

    The reason I decided to take on the challenge of triathlon was that I was already doing two of the three disciplines of triathlon on a daily basis, doing light running of around 7km or 12km when I had the time, and riding my road bike for distances of around 30km or 70km when I had the time, so I thought that if there was a swimming event here, I could take part in a triathlon and complete it.

    There are also special TT bikes for triathlon, but I didn’t think about it that seriously, and I thought it would be difficult to ride it for training on a regular basis, as it would be dedicated to competition use only, and the timing of my interest in triathlons coincided with the announcement of the SL8, so I received advice from the shop where I bought the SL7 and Divage that the SL8 would be easier to use for the purpose of completing an Olympic distance, and that the SL8 would be better suited to triathlon use than the SL7, as it would cause less fatigue for the same distance. (I think there are different options for people like me who are approaching middle age and are aiming to participate in middle-distance or long-distance triathlons, rather than just completing a short-distance triathlon.

    In reality, since I bought the bike, I haven’t had much time for either my work or my personal life, so I’ve had to put my triathlon plans on hold for the time being, and I haven’t had time to go running or ride my road bike either.

    I am writing this article with the hope that I will be able to maintain my motivation and goal of eventually challenging myself to an Olympic-distance triathlon, by resuming light running and riding when I have more time.

    The S-Works Tarmac SL8 is the latest racing bike from Specialized, and I had high expectations for its aerodynamic performance based on the Venge of the past, but when the product was announced, the aerodynamic concept was not what was expected, and there were mixed reviews, so I thought that people might be interested but wonder how it really is (that’s just my own imagination), and I thought that I could write about that in an article, even though I’ve only been able to ride it a little since I actually bought it, because it’s a good road bike.

    About the S-Works Tarmac SL8

    I think the easiest way to understand the difference between Specialized and S-Works is to think of Specialized as a manufacturer that originally produces high-performance road bikes and MTBs, and then sells professional models used in races etc. under the separate S-Works brand.

    The relationship between Specialized and S-Works is easiest to understand if you compare it to a German car manufacturer, and it is like the separate brands that sell GT-class racing cars developed for racing by the manufacturer’s works team, such as M for BMW, RS for Audi, and AMG for Mercedes-Benz. The difference between cars and bicycles is that cars cannot be driven on public roads as racing cars, so they are sold as commercial vehicles in a state that allows them to be driven on public roads, and so they are different from actual racing cars. Bicycles are sold as they are, so even amateurs can buy the same road bikes as those ridden by professionals in the Tour de France.

    I would like to briefly touch on the differences between the Specialized Tarmac SL7 and the S-Works Tarmac SL8, and whether it is worth changing bikes based on my own experience of changing bikes.

    When the S-Works Tarmac SL8 was announced, it became a topic of conversation, for better or for worse, but regardless of road bikes, the evolution of modern technology is incredible, and when it comes to whether you can actually feel the difference, the answer is both yes and no. It’s a bit like the situation of whether you need to buy the latest model of an iPhone or something similar, and in the end, the conclusion is whether the person using it thinks they need that performance and want it.

    There is also an evolution from the SL7 to the latest SL8, but the difference between Specialized and S-Works is also significant, so I will briefly touch on this.

    As this blog is not dedicated to road bikes, I hope that even those who are not familiar with road bikes will be able to get some kind of idea from it.

    The difference between Specialized and S-Works

    • Frame: Both Specialized and S-Works are made of carbon, but S-Works is of a higher grade (lighter and stronger, etc.)
    • Components (gears, chains, brakes, etc.): Both Specialized and S-Works are made of Shimano electric components, but Specialized is of a higher grade called Ultegra, and S-Works is of a higher grade called Dura-Ace. The difference between the two is in the lightness and feel of operation, and Dura-Ace has a function called a power meter that measures your riding ability (your leg strength). (SRAM is the same.)
    • Handlebars: Both the Specialized and S-Works models are made of carbon and have aerodynamic features, which is a recent trend. The handlebars used on the SL8 are lighter and have better aerodynamic performance.
    • Seat post: Both the Specialized and S-Works models are made of carbon and have aerodynamic features, which is a recent trend. The seat post used on the SL8 is lighter and has better aerodynamic performance. (The seatpost that can be used differs between the 52 and 54 sizes, but the battery for the electronic shifters interferes with the seatpost, so the seatpost size needs to be carefully matched.
    • Seat Both the Specialized and S-Works models are made of carbon, and the seat used on the SL8 is lighter.
    • Wheels In line with the current trend for road bikes, the wheels are made of carbon with deep rims and disc brakes that are aerodynamic. The wheels used on the SL8 are also lighter and have better aerodynamic performance.
    • Tyres: Specialized recommends clincher tyres (with tubes) for their road bikes, although they are tubeless-ready and have been designed with maintenance in mind, so we have fitted clincher tyres. (Tubeless tyres have their advantages, such as the ability to be regularly filled with sealant, but they are also more difficult to maintain, so they are not suitable for amateur cyclists who only ride occasionally. ) The tyres fitted to the Specialized and S-Works bikes are also of different grades. The tyres fitted to the S-Works bikes are also higher-performance and lighter.

    The accumulation of the slight differences mentioned above results in differences in weight and aerodynamic performance, and the benefits of this numerical difference in weight and aerodynamic performance can be seen when you compare the two cars. As well as speed, you can also feel the difference in physical precision and experience the difference in mechanical accuracy, so you can feel the difference when you compare the two cars.

    The difference between components is when you buy a ready-made road bike, or you can buy the frame and put together the components and parts yourself, so for some people the only difference is the frame.

    The difference in the parts used and their grade is what makes the difference in price. (It’s a shame that the price has risen so much due to the sudden depreciation of the yen recently.)

    Pages: 1 2 3 4

  • Hat and Cap

    Hat and Cap

    On the hats I always wear

    Hat and Cap
    Hat and Cap

    Introduction.

    As I mentioned in another article, hats are a very useful item for me, as I am a lazy person by nature, my hair is always in a state of dishevelled sleep and I don’t even look in the mirror from the moment I wake up until I go to bed. In this article, I would like to introduce my favourite hats.

    Bucket hats

    I love bucket hats and have several. In summer, I often use Ten-C nylon fabric and Borsalino denim fabric. Straw hats are also good in summer, but bucket hats are very easy to use because you can fold them up and put them in your bag when they get in the way. Because of its volume, it is good to match it with a jacket, but it is also a convenient hat that looks great with a T-shirt or polo.

    Brunello Cucinelli Slim Fit T-shirt
    Brunello Cucinelli Slim Fit T-shirt and Borsalino
    Schiesser Revival Karl-heinz
    Schiesser Revival Karl-heinz and Ten-C

    Caskets and berets

    Caskets and berets are also a favourite and often worn. Caskets and berets have a classic image and look like winter items, but considering the fabric, they are also useful in summer. They are usually worn with jackets, but they are also useful items that look good with just a T-shirt.

    Brunello Cucinelli Slim Fit T-Shirt
    Brunello Cucinelli Slim Fit T-Shirt and The SKILLED WORKERS

    Baseball caps

    Baseball caps are enjoyed in a casual style. In summer I wear it with just a T-shirt, but if I wear it with a shirt, it gives a strong American image and makes it easy to create the American casual style that I love. Surprisingly, it is also recommended to wear it with a tailored jacket, as it gives a good casual feel without being too stiff.

    Cord’s 50’s
    Cord’s 50’s and Fresh Service

    Conclusion.

    I originally wore hats because I was lazy and it was a hassle to do my hair, but once you start using different things and always wearing them, you naturally develop a kind of style. Hats are not formal, so they are useful when you want to change your casual style, so if you are interested, try them out and you will discover something new and interesting.