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OMEGA Seamaster Ref. 2532.80

As briefly mentioned in our previous feature on TIE YOUR TIE—a piece that explored the effortless elegance of Kiton and the artistry of the Sette Pieghe—this 1990s Omega Seamaster has been a steadfast witness to my life for nearly three decades.

While the arrival of the Apple Watch eventually claimed its place as a daily utilitarian tool, this mechanical masterpiece remained my singular, unwavering choice for over twenty years, leading up to 2018.

Seamaster Professional 300

Formally christened the Seamaster Professional 300, it is a bona fide diver’s instrument, engineered with the rigorous water resistance and functional precision demanded by professionals beneath the waves.

Yet, its true brilliance transcends its technical prowess. Despite its robust and resilient soul, it possesses a rare versatility—transitioning seamlessly from spirited casual attire to the sharp, refined silhouette of a bespoke suit or jacket.

It is a testament to timeless design; a timepiece that remains indifferent to the changing tides of occasion, defined instead by its quiet, enduring strength.

A definitive tool watch that remains untarnished by the passage of thirty years.

**The Buckle of the Seamaster Ref. 2532.80**

Every mark on this clasp is a testament to three decades of reliability—a record of a life lived and time well-spent.

OMEGA Seamaster Ref. 2532.80

The Dichotomy of Time: Heritage vs. Resilience

The antique timepieces often featured on this blog are, by their very nature, delicate vestiges of the past. Their water resistance is no longer a guarantee, necessitating a cautious retreat from the humidity of midsummer or the sudden onset of rain. They are, in essence, not intended for the rigors of daily life.

Across the realms of horology, automotive engineering, and even the arts of guitar or camera making, the soul of an “antique” lies in the value of elapsed time.

The criteria for excellence often rest upon how faithfully the object has retained its original form—a concept rooted more in the stewardship of culture than in mere fiscal appreciation. While monetary value exists, it is a pity that modern discourse so often fixates solely on the price tag.

In the world of watches, the presence of original parts dictates its historical standing. While replacing worn components is technically “best” for maintaining peak performance, the rarity of period-correct parts often leads to the use of modern equivalents.

This creates a paradox for the collector: such maintenance, while functional, can diminish the antique integrity of the piece—a dilemma well-known to those navigating the official overhauls of Rolex dials or the hands of vintage Patek Philippe.

However, the OMEGA Seamaster Professional 300M (hereafter referred simply as the Seamaster) exists in a different realm. Purchased new and subjected to rigorous, periodic authorized maintenance, its functional integrity remains uncompromised.

With its sapphire crystal and modern construction, it is a timepiece that invites use rather than demanding sanctuary. One need not hesitate over part replacements or performance anxiety; it is a tool designed to be worn, maintaining its prowess through OMEGA’s prescribed care.

A Choice of Subtle Distinction: Ref. 2532.80

The Ref. 2532.80 graced the catalog from approximately 1993 to 2000. It is a formidable instrument, equipped with a helium escape valve and 300m water resistance—features that defined an era of professional diving.

This lineage produced icons: the “Bond” model worn by Pierce Brosnan’s 007, and the limited editions honoring the legendary free-diver Jacques Mayol.

At 41mm, it possesses the commanding presence expected of a diver’s watch. Yet, thanks to its stainless steel bezel and matte navy dial, it achieves a rare versatility, harmonizing with casual attire and formal tailoring alike.

Its sibling, the Ref. 2531.80, earned global fame on the wrist of James Bond, distinguished by its navy blue bezel. At the time of my purchase, however, I sought a silhouette that would slip seamlessly under the cuff of a suit without discord. My choice was the Ref. 2532.80, favored for its monochromatic stainless steel bezel.

While the blue-bezeled Bond model exudes a sporty, adventurous spirit—perfectly capturing the essence of a world-class spy—I felt that for a civilian life, the austere elegance of the steel bezel offered a more wearable sophistication.

Beneath the bezel, the DNA remains identical: the same case, bracelet, caliber, and helium valve. The only difference is the color of the bezel—a subtle nuance that defines its character.

Introduction

Introduction: A Reawakening of Purpose

The inspiration to chronicle this timepiece struck while revisiting a sartorial ensemble from two decades ago—a period defined by the bespoke silhouettes of TIE YOUR TIE.

In an effort to reconstruct the aesthetic of that era, I once again fastened this Seamaster to my wrist. What began as a nostalgic gesture quickly transformed into a profound rediscovery. The watch’s seamless blend of daily utility, its understated elegance that eschews ostentation, and its sheer versatility reminded me why it held its place for so long.

On this platform, I have curated several mechanical marvels, yet I must concede that my daily hours are predominantly claimed by the Apple Watch. Its pragmatic ease, bolstered by robust water resistance and the ability to quantify one’s physical state into digital clarity, is undeniably compelling. For more rigorous pursuits like running, I often turn to the specialized precision of a Garmin, relying on its granular data for Vo2max and peak heart rates.

Yet, this OMEGA Seamaster possesses a narrative that modern silicon cannot replicate. In years past, it was not merely a companion for formal affairs; it accompanied me on my runs, enduring the physical toll of exercise with a stoic resilience. Wearing it again after this hiatus, I find myself reaffirmed by its dual nature—a high-performance instrument with the soul of a classic, proving its enduring charm remains untouched by the passage of thirty years.

I. The Genesis: My First Mechanical Heartbeat

My journey into the world of mechanical horology began with this very Seamaster Professional 300, purchased alongside my wife. It was not a calculated acquisition but rather a spontaneous one, sparked by an article she had encountered in a fashion journal.

At the time, the model was undergoing a generational shift. I opted for the classic soul of the outgoing Ref. 2532.80 with its iconic dot indices, while my wife chose the contemporary “Bar” index of the mid-sized Ref. 2253.80.

**Ref. 2253.80 & Ref. 2532.80: A Family Legacy**

The beginning of a mechanical journey shared with my wife. These two models from the same era perfectly illustrate OMEGA’s commitment to legibility and pure functional beauty.

As my first mechanical timepiece, the simple physics of it fascinated me—the way the hands surged to life with a few turns of the crown, the tactile click of setting the date and time without a single volt of electricity.

It quickly became an extension of my arm. Because it was always there, it lacked the fleeting luster of a “special occasion” item; instead, it earned the profound status of a trusted tool.

Through three decades and regular authorized overhauls, it has never faltered—a living testament to the enduring bond formed when a husband and wife embark on their first horological journey together.

II. Robustness: A Stoic Companion in Motion

As alluded to in my previous writing on Kiton, I have maintained a discipline of running and walking since 2010. In those pre-smartwatch days, when the digital landscape was sparse, the Seamaster was my constant companion on the pavement.

While a standard 30m water-resistant watch might shudder at the salt and moisture of a summer sprint, this professional 300m diver remained indifferent. I would routinely rinse the sweat from its steel frame under a tap post-run.

My only concern was the repetitive vibration of the stride. However, when I finally submitted it to the Nicolas G. Hayek Center in Ginza for service, the OMEGA master watchmaker assured me the movement remained pristine.

It was a revelation: for my lifestyle, its resilience was absolute. It even accompanied me 40 meters beneath the waves of Oahu, where its Super-LumiNova dial cut through the Pacific depths with crystalline clarity.

III. Versatility: From the Abyss to the Atelier

Revisiting this watch today for a photoshoot with a suit, I am struck by its seamless adaptability. Though it is an uncompromising diving instrument, it betrays no awkwardness when paired with fine tailoring. Its monochromatic steel bezel and matte navy dial provide a muted elegance that refuses to clamor for attention.

We must credit Pierce Brosnan’s James Bond for validating this aesthetic; his pairing of the sibling Ref. 2531.80 with Brioni tailoring set a gold standard for the “suit-diver” look.

Yet, while the world chased the blue bezel of 007, I found my Ref. 2532.80 to be the more versatile civilian choice. Even after 25 years since its discontinuation, the bracelet remains remarkably taught, offering a “fit” that prevents the watch’s heft from shifting on the wrist—a balance of ergonomics and engineering rarely found in modern counterparts.

IV. Understatement: The Quiet Elegance of the 90s

Modern sports watches often lean into aggressive silhouettes—razor-sharp edges and high-polish surfaces that demand to be noticed. My preference, however, lies in the softer, more integrated lines of the 1990s.

This Seamaster is neither a fragile antique nor a shouting newcomer. It exists in a serene middle ground, unburdened by the hyper-inflated market valuations that plague modern “icons.”

Its charm lies in this very lack of notoriety. It does not “badly stand out” (as we say in Japan); it simply exists as a refined part of one’s person.

I have never been one for the possessive hoarding of objects; I frequently pass cherished items to friends when their chapter in my life closes. Yet, the Seamaster remains. It is more than an object of affection—it has become, over thirty years of shared pulse and quiet service, a fundamental part of my daily reality.

Examples.

A Sartorial Homage Captured here is a dialogue between two legends of craftsmanship. The crisp sax-blue shirt by TIE YOUR TIE meets the structured shoulder of a navy Brioni suit—an ensemble that directly evokes the cinematic elegance of the Pierce Brosnan era.

In this frame, the Seamaster ceases to be a mere diver’s tool and becomes the definitive punctuation mark for a gentleman’s silhouette. It is a visual testament to the “Bond Style,” where high-performance utility is cloaked in the absolute refinement of Italian tailoring.

1.On the cuffs of the Tie Your Tie shirt

While the 41mm diameter felt substantial at the time of purchase, it sits with perfect contemporary relevance today—a testament to its enduring proportions.

2.On the cuffs of the Brioni jacket and shirt

Despite its professional diving pedigree, the watch harmonizes seamlessly with a navy suit and white shirt. The monochromatic steel bezel and matte navy dial offer a versatile understatedness that complements any formal attire.

3.On the cuffs of the Brioni jacket

While the “Bond” association established the diver-with-a-suit aesthetic, this watch stands on its own merit. Its exceptional design balance ensures it remains a universal choice for any sartorial occasion.

Technical Specifications & Personal Reflections

The Specifications: A Legacy of Precision

Feature	Details
Model	OMEGA Seamaster Professional 300 Ref. 2532.80
Certification	Swiss Chronometer Certified
Case & Bracelet	Robust Stainless Steel
Crown	Screw-in security
Crystal	Scratch-resistant Sapphire
Water Resistance	30 bar (300m / 1000ft)
Movement	Caliber 1120 (Automatic)

The Allure: Why It Endures

A simple three-hand automatic with a date—highly practical and easy to live with.
The colorless bezel and matte navy dial create a restrained design that works in any setting.
The functional beauty of a true diver’s watch.
A dial designed with excellent legibility in mind.
A dial designed with excellent legibility in mind.
The oversized crown makes winding effortless.
Despite its 41mm case, it remains highly wearable.
Being a model from 30 years ago, it stays understated on the wrist.
Free from strict vintage constraints, parts can be replaced by the manufacturer without hesitation to maintain performance.
Maintained properly and worn continuously for over 30 years.

The Consideration

The Cost of Fidelity: As with any high-grade mechanical instrument, an official authorized overhaul commands a significant investment. Yet, when weighed against its daily reliability and the thirty years of service it has rendered, it is a price paid for enduring peace of mind.

Epilogue: Beyond the Passage of Time

Had I not sat down to pen this article, I might never have consciously realized the profound weight of this watch—the first mechanical timepiece my wife and I purchased together, still beating faithfully on my wrist three decades later.

It has become so integrated into my daily life that its presence felt almost like a natural extension of my own body. Even in this era where the Apple Watch claims my primary hours, I intend to keep this Seamaster close, allowing it to mark the rhythm of my time on those occasions that demand a soul.

In an age that often prioritizes the fleeting and the disposable, I have reaffirmed a vital truth: to invest in quality and cherish it over decades enriches one’s life and fosters a sense of “social grace”—an appropriate modesty in one’s attire.

OMEGA has historically stood not as a purveyor of mere “luxury,” but as a manufacturer of high-performance precision instruments, upholding the stern image of Swiss and German engineering.

It may lack the ostentatious flash of its rivals, but that very restraint is precisely what I find so magnetic. This reunion with a thirty-year-old companion has been so revitalizing that it has, perhaps dangerously, sparked a new curiosity in the Seamasters of today.

Shop

As this model is no longer available, I cannot recommend any shops where you might purchase it. However, the Seamaster models currently on sale are also excellent watches, so please do take a look at Omega’s official website.

Omega Official Website

2026-04-07

2026-06-11

2026-04-07

John Lobb Darby: The Soul of an English Standard | 25 Years of Heritage

A Classic Worth Reviving

The Archetype of the English Derby

Introducing the John Lobb Darby — a masterpiece that faithfully inherits the standards of traditional English footwear. When one envisions an English “Derby,” it is precisely this silhouette that often comes to mind. With its full brogue detailing, open lacing (derby), and robust double sole, it remains the most orthodox expression of the genre.

While its appearance is rugged and stalwart, the Darby is elevated by John Lobb’s unparalleled craftsmanship and the quintessentially British philosophy of shoemaking. Utilizing the world’s finest calfskin — a hallmark of the brand’s heritage under the Hermès group — this shoe achieves a rare harmony: it is universally sophisticated yet built with a tenacity that lasts a lifetime.

The Catalyst: A Reunion with Kiton

The impetus for my recent article on the Tie Your Tie Kiton suit actually began with this pair. In preparing to photograph the Darby, I reached into the depths of my closet for a suit that had long been resting: the Kiton. Putting it on again sparked a realization.

Like the suit, this Darby had been tucked away ever since I stepped back from wearing formal attire. However, after rediscovering the joy of wearing my Barros in a more casual context, I felt a rekindled desire to walk again in my Darby and Chambord. It has inspired me to once again embrace the art of coordination, bringing suits and jackets back into my daily life.

Reflections: Beyond Consumption

Reflecting on the memories associated with the Tie Your Tie suit while preparing this footwear chronicle was a fascinating exercise in time travel. The passing years have revealed layers of meaning I hadn’t noticed before. Although the suit article was published first for clarity, it was the Darby that truly set this journey in motion.

A pair of John Lobb shoes is a significant investment, yet if cared for with devotion, they truly serve for a lifetime. To wear them long-term is to understand the essence of value; it is an invitation to experience the depth of European and British culture.

The Heritage: A Lost Icon

Authentic English shoes offer a tangible gateway to the British ethos of “cherishing things for a long time”. My own pair belongs to the classic John Lobb line — a “Derby” with its roots in the rugged lifestyle of the Country Gentleman.

Though it possesses a masculine allure born from practical necessity, this traditional Darby has sadly been discontinued and is no longer available for purchase. It remains a vestige of a golden era of shoemaking.

[ John Lobb Barros’s article ]

The Form of the John Lobb Darby

The quintessential English standard: a full-brogue Derby featuring open lacing—a silhouette that defines the heritage of British footwear.

The John Lobb Darby, Side View

Though these shoes bear the creases of twenty-five years of wear, the sheer quality of the calfskin and the robustness of their construction ensure they remain remarkably preserved.

The Rounded Toe of the John Lobb Darby

The toe features the gracefully sharp round-toe profile that was the hallmark of 1990s shoe design.

The Original Box of the John Lobb Darby

An authentic shoebox from the 1990s to the mid-2000s. The model name, size, last, color, and leather type are all handwritten in marker—a charming vestige of the artisanal, small-batch spirit that defined the London bespoke workshops before the era of mass production.

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2026-03-31
Tie Your Tie Kiton

It has been quite some time since I stopped wearing suits on a regular basis. Recently, however, a subtle change in my mindset has led me back to a pair of shoes I had long set aside — the John Lobb Barros.

Perhaps that small shift rekindled something. I found myself wanting to wear the black derby shoes that I used to pair with my suits, and before long I began to think about wearing suits again. Not in the way I did when I was younger, as part of everyday work attire, but rather as something to enjoy in daily life.

When I took a suit out of the closet — one that had been resting there for years — and tried it on again, it felt quite different from how I remembered it. Of course, my sensibilities have changed over time. Yet revisiting it also revealed details and impressions that I had never noticed before.

Today, I would like to introduce a Kiton suit that I purchased about twenty years ago at Tie Your Tie.

This time, I’d like to introduce a Kiton suit I bought at Tie Your Tie 20 years ago.

Tie Your Tie

For anyone with an interest in classic Italian tailoring, Tie Your Tie in Florence needs little introduction. The shop was owned by Franco Minucci, widely regarded as one of Italy’s most elegant men and celebrated as a true well-dresser.

Minucci curated an extraordinary selection of clothing and accessories, guided by his refined aesthetic and unmistakable point of view. The shop carried some of the finest names in Italian tailoring, including Kiton and Cesare Attolini, as well as shirts from Luigi Borrelli and Rigatti, trousers from Rota, and shoes from Marini and Il Micio. Ties and small accessories were also carefully selected and often subtly adapted to reflect Minucci’s personal vision of style.

Among the most notable offerings were bespoke garments from the Florentine tailor Seminara, as well as bespoke shoes from Marini of Rome. Tie Your Tie also introduced bespoke work by Hideaki Fukaya of Il Micio, long before he became internationally renowned. Even ready-to-wear pieces from houses such as Kiton and Attolini were often specially commissioned to reflect the distinctive aesthetic of the shop.

Perhaps most famous were the house ties, particularly the iconic sette pieghe — the seven-fold tie made without interlining. Yet the influence of Tie Your Tie extended far beyond ties. The shop did not merely represent classic Italian style; it helped shape the direction of modern menswear. Independent of passing trends, it proposed a timeless vision of masculine elegance, making it a place where true connoisseurs of style naturally gathered.

The world of products it presented was extraordinary. Guided by the uncompromising aesthetic of Franco Minucci, the offerings were unapologetically luxurious, with little regard for price. Yet the shop attracted admirers from all over the world. Among its well-known devotees was the Japanese footballer Kazuyoshi Miura.

In Japan, Tie Your Tie once operated boutiques in both Tokyo and Osaka. For a time it was frequently featured in influential fashion media and high-end men’s lifestyle magazines, so many readers may recognize the name.

Although the boutiques themselves disappeared following the passing of Franco Minucci, the ties that bear the Tie Your Tie name continue to be produced today.

Ciro Paone

The Tie Your Tie suit that I wear most often is a piece specially commissioned by the shop from Kiton in Naples. It is made from a slightly muted dark navy wool, a heavy fabric intended for autumn and winter, with a subtle Glen check running through it.

The details follow the familiar Neapolitan language of tailoring: a high gorge line, manica camicia sleeves, front darts, and side vents. The trousers sit high on the waist and feature double pleats with a gently tapered, slightly fuller leg. Yet the suit is not purely Neapolitan. The proportions — a comfortable body width and relaxed shoulders — together with the choice of fabric reflect a distinctly Florentine sensibility. In this way, the suit brings together the tailoring tradition of Naples with the quieter elegance of Florence.

A classic Italian tailored suit

For reference, Italian suit styles vary noticeably by region. To summarize in simple terms: Rome is represented by the urban refinement of Brioni; Milan tends toward a more fashion-driven aesthetic, exemplified by Armani or Tom Ford; Naples is known for its classic tailoring tradition, represented by houses such as Kiton and Cesare Attolini; and Florence is often associated with a slightly more relaxed elegance, typified by Liverano & Liverano.

Brands such as Armani and Tom Ford are widely known and easy to picture. However, it is helpful to understand the structure of the Italian tailoring world. Houses like Brioni, Kiton, and Attolini originally grew from traditional tailoring ateliers before expanding into larger manufacturers with their own production facilities. By contrast, figures such as Antonio Panico in Naples or Liverano & Liverano in Florence remain traditional sartorie — independent tailoring houses focused primarily on custom work.

When one becomes deeply drawn to the Neapolitan or Florentine tradition, the path often leads to the sartoria. Tailors such as Antonio Panico, Pirozzi, Ciardi, and Solito in Naples, as well as Liverano & Liverano in Florence, represent this world. These houses typically work on a bespoke basis, creating garments entirely by hand to the client’s measurements.

Each sartoria has its own distinctive style. When that style resonates with the wearer, it becomes possible to achieve a form of dress that ready-to-wear clothing simply cannot reproduce. At the same time, bespoke tailoring requires a certain level of experience — from understanding fabrics to navigating cost and delivery times. Without a clear image of how one wishes to dress, and without considering the entire composition of an outfit, the results can easily fall short of expectation.

Classic.

Italian tailoring is often collectively referred to as “Classico Italiano.” The word classic is well chosen. The suit and the tailored jacket originated as forms of uniform, and they still carry with them a number of implicit rules and enduring details. Within these fixed conventions lies the space for personal expression. In that sense, classic menswear has something in common with classical music: a composer’s score preserves the original intent, yet each performer interprets and expresses it differently through their own understanding and sensibility.

Tie Your Tie × Kiton Jacket Style

Kiton suits tend to feature a softer silhouette compared with other Neapolitan tailors such as Attolini and Panico, who are known for their more structured, British-influenced tailoring. The shoulders are slightly more relaxed, the body has a bit more room, and the overall silhouette sits somewhere in the middle.
The special order made for Tie Your Tie makes the most of these characteristics, resulting in a relaxed Florentine style with a comfortable, elegant balance.

Tie Your Tie × Kiton with a Brown Tie

Tie Your Tie was known for pairing ties in muted tones—such as browns and purples—creating subtle yet sophisticated color combinations. In this photo the tie has flipped over in the wind, which was simply my mistake for not tying it properly.

Tie Your Tie — Ciro Paone

Although the label reads “Ciro Paone” instead of Kiton, it is the name of Kiton’s founder. Suits and jackets specially produced by Kiton for Tie Your Tie were labeled under the Ciro Paone name. The history and personal connections behind arrangements like this are part of what makes Italian classic style so intriguing.

Tie Your Tie × Kiton — Manica Camicia

The slight wrinkles visible when the jacket is hung reflect the “manica camicia” sleeve construction, a signature of Neapolitan tailoring. The fabric itself carries a faint Glen check pattern.

Tie Your Tie Original Oxford Shirt

I paired the suit with an original Tie Your Tie shirt, of which I own several. Made from Oxford cloth, the fabric is surprisingly soft and comfortable. I usually remove the plastic collar stays when I buy the shirt. A well-made shirt should produce a natural collar roll without the collar tips lifting, and Tie Your Tie shirts are known for their particularly elegant roll.

Tie Your Tie Sette Pieghe Tie

The tie features a brown irregular dot pattern and is made in the traditional sette pieghe construction, folded seven times without interlining. While Neapolitan house Marinella also produces sette pieghe ties, Tie Your Tie’s version uses a lighter fabric with a slightly more open weave, resulting in a softer, more relaxed look. I tend to choose Marinella for formal settings and Tie Your Tie when I want to introduce a more playful element.

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2026-03-24
A-2 Deck Jacket
I have a fondness for military items and am particularly fond of field jackets. The field jackets I’ve featured previously were either single-layer constructions (M43, M47, Brunello Cucinelli) or featured a thin liner (M65).

Due to the construction of field jackets, using them as a primary outer layer in the depths of winter presents challenges in terms of warmth. The A-2 Deck Jacket I’m introducing this time serves as a slightly warmer military-style outer layer.

The A-2 Deck Jacket was adopted by the US Navy as cold-weather protection for deck work at sea, utilising acrylic fleece as its lining. Consequently, it blocks wind even in the depths of winter, and the acrylic fleece provides excellent insulation and warmth, making it an outer layer frequently worn during the colder months.

The A-2 Deck Jacket introduced here is an improved version of the N1 Deck Jacket developed by the US Navy in the 1940s for deck work, adopted in the 1960s. The major difference between the N-1 and A-2 Deck Jackets lies in the materials: due to the developmental stage of nylon and polyester in the 1940s, the N-1 Deck Jacket was made from natural materials – cotton fabric with an alpaca lining.

By the 1960s, when the A-2 Deck Jacket was developed, material advancements had led to the increasing use of nylon and polyester. Initial production runs retained the cotton outer fabric but changed the lining from alpaca to acrylic fleece. Subsequent modifications saw the cotton outer replaced with a cotton-polyester blend fabric, offering improved maintenance properties and durability.

1970s A-2 Deck Jacket

My beloved A-2 deck jacket dates from 1978, crafted from cotton-polyester fabric with an acrylic fleece lining and brass zips.

Much like the M65, it is a genuine military garment, highly functional, and its stoic form, devoid of excess, is profoundly masculine. It is an exceptionally versatile outer layer; simply throwing it over denim creates an instant, effortless look.

The difference from a field jacket lies in the thickness of the fleece lining. This results in a tighter fit and a silhouette that tends to puff out more easily. Compared to a field jacket, choosing a thinner inner layer ensures greater comfort and prevents the silhouette from becoming distorted.

A-2 Deck Jacket

The Navy adopted it for deck work, so its purpose was as military workwear; its details differ from the field jacket, such as the shape of the pockets and the absence of epaulettes.

A-2 Deck Jacket with Inner Boa Lining

The inner fleece lining is substantial, and the thick cotton-polyester blend fabric is windproof, keeping you warm even in winter.

Introduction.

A-2 Deck Jacket

The A-2 deck jacket was officially adopted by the US military from the early 1960s until the 1990s.

Its defining characteristics lie in the simplification of features found on the Field Jacket, such as epaulettes and flap pockets, which were designed to maximise freedom of movement for both hands in combat zones. Instead, it incorporates only the essential functionality required for naval deck operations, which was its intended purpose.

As it is designed for work at sea, where temperatures are typically lower than those encountered in the Field Jacket’s intended environment, its lining features acrylic fleece to provide enhanced warmth.

In contrast to the M65, designed for combat wear and built on the premise of infrequent donning and doffing to adapt to changing environments, this deck jacket is intended for continuous wear during deck work. It is designed to withstand the cold of deck duties, hence the acrylic fleece lining.

Compared to field jackets, its origins as workwear for cold conditions mean it features thicker inner layers, making it slightly bulkier. It also has simpler details, incorporating functional pockets similar to those found on field jackets.

As I wrote in the M65 article, the M65 has a relatively relaxed fit, meaning it retains its silhouette well even when layered with thick innerwear. In contrast, the A-2 deck jacket features a fleece lining, and wearing thick innerwear restricts movement. Its bulky form also makes the silhouette appear puffy when worn.

Compared to the M65, the A-2 Deck Jacket hasn’t inspired as many fashion industry followers, though some brands do offer reproductions. However, while the original N-1 has become iconic and sees many reproduction items, reproductions of the A-2 – designed as an evolution of the N-1 and for mass production – are less common.

The A-2 Deck Jacket, being genuine military wear, carries a rugged image. Designed as workwear for cold weather, it provides warmth even with thinner layers underneath, making it a valuable outer layer for the colder winter months. Its thick, sturdy construction means the A-2 Deck Jacket’s distinctive character comes through regardless of the inner layers worn; it is recommended to style it by embracing this inherent character.

DecK Jacket.

I’ve always admired the functional beauty of field jackets and rarely had occasion to wear deck jackets. However, come midwinter, a field jacket proves insufficient against the cold, so I’ve chosen the A-2 deck jacket as a military alternative.

As I mentioned in my M65 article, the M65 has a generous armhole, allowing me to layer thick knits underneath to combat the cold. I enjoy opting for the A-2 deck jacket on days when I feel like wearing something warmer than the M65.

Rather than being an outerwear choice, I tend to wear the A-2 deck jacket more often on days when the temperature makes me want to wear slightly thinner layers underneath.

[ M65 Fieldjacket’s article ]

The characteristics of deck jackets, including the N-1, lie in their thickness due to the inner lining and their extremely simple form, stemming from their adoption as workwear. The absence of accessory parts like flap pockets and epaulettes, which are part of the M65’s functional beauty, means they have a less distinctive appearance. Compared to the M65, they also give a less pronounced sense of wearing military wear.

The substantial inner lining resists creasing when worn, contributing to a somewhat flat appearance and a slightly puffed silhouette. This creates an item that divides opinion.

Middle70s.Model

The A-2 deck jacket featured here is a 1978 model. The form of the A-2 deck jacket, much like the M65, shows little variation over the years. The primary change in early materials was the shift from cotton twill to a cotton-polyester blend, whilst the fundamental form has remained consistent.

The A-2 deck jacket features a tag attached to the inner neck area. Examining this tag reveals details such as the year of US military issue and the size. The number DLA-100-78-C-9882 shown on the tag image below is the contractor information (delivery details), where the “78” in 100-78 indicates the year of manufacture.

These are the characteristics.
- A simple collar
- Three pockets
- Fastening with zip and buttons
- Brass zip
- Acrylic fleece lining
- Cold-weather cuff ribbing
- Side adjusters at the hem
- Stencil print on the back (marked USN: issued by the US Navy)
The A-2 deck jacket, 1978 model, features:

A-2 Deck Jacket Tag

The tag displays washing instructions, size, management number, contractor number, and contractor name. The “78” in DLA-100-78 denotes the year of manufacture.

Ribbed Cuffs of the A-2 Deck Jacket

The sleeves feature ribbing for the purpose of keeping out the cold.

Brass Zipper of the A-2 Deck Jacket

The fasteners are made of brass and feature Talon fittings.

Side Adjusters on the A-2 Deck Jacket

Adjustable fasteners are provided under both arms to alter the width.

Back Stencil on the A-2 Deck Jacket

A-2 deck jackets feature stenciled markings to identify the unit to which the wearer belonged. While various patterns exist, my A-2 deck jacket has been sprayed to obscure the stencils. I suspect this was done by either the original owner or a subsequent owner to prevent the stencils being identified. The upper USN marking remains legible, confirming it was issued by the US Navy.

Combination

A-2 Deck Jacket features a fuller silhouette compared to field jackets, as it is designed as workwear for cold conditions. It also has a shorter length than field jackets.

The khaki colour pairs exceptionally well with denim, and it can be enjoyed not only with denim but also with various inner layers and bottoms.

The most noticeable difference from field jackets is that, due to the acrylic fleece inner layer, both the body width and armholes feel narrower.

Consequently, wearing thick inner layers can restrict movement and create a bulky appearance.

For inner layers, military-style thermal T-shirts pair most naturally. I favour the US Army-adopted thermal T-shirts, now reissued by Real McCoy’s. Their fabric thickness and honeycomb structure trap air, providing knitwear-level warmth. Being cotton, they also resist static electricity.

Despite being made from thick cotton fabric, the military thermal T-shirt has a fairly tight silhouette, allowing you to wear an A-2 deck jacket without looking bulky.

Paired with a sweatshirt, it creates a classic Americana style. However, modern sweatshirts often have wider armholes, so wearing one under an A-2 deck jacket can feel constricting around the shoulders and arms. Personally, I don’t mind and enjoy pairing it with items like Champion’s Reverse Weave.

Being khaki in colour, it pairs easily with denim or chinos. Provided you pay attention to the thickness and size of the items worn underneath, it’s quite forgiving in terms of colour coordination. Thanks to the acrylic fleece lining, even just the thermal T-shirt and A-2 deck jacket provide sufficient warmth during the daytime in winter.

This time I’ve paired the Champion Reverse Weave with a military-style thermal T-shirt, but the thermal T-shirt wins in terms of comfort and styling. If you don’t fasten the front, you can enjoy it as a sweatshirt too.

I don’t do this myself, but if you plan to wear sweatshirts or similar as inner layers, choosing a size one step larger than your usual will alleviate any feeling of tightness or bulkiness.

In early spring or late autumn, you can even wear it over a short-sleeved T-shirt. Rather than using it solely for deep winter warmth, enjoy it as a light outer layer for early winter or early spring. This way, you can wear it comfortably without feeling bulky or constricted.

The A-2 deck jacket boasts a long service life of over 30 years in US military issue, meaning a large number of second-hand items are available, making it a relatively easy piece to acquire. As genuine military wear in khaki, it is an excellent outer layer that effortlessly creates a rugged or stoic look simply by throwing it on.

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2026-03-17
John Lobb Lawry
As mentioned in my previous article on Barros, I recently purchased a pair of John Lobb shoes for the first time in 25 years. The shoes I bought are the Lawry, a boot that epitomises John Lobb. The Lawry is a Chelsea boot featuring side gore panels. Whilst the classic choice is black calf leather, I opted for dark brown suede.

I chose the dark brown suede for its compatibility with denim and the beige-toned trousers I’ve been favouring lately.

This marked my first purchase at a John Lobb flagship store in 25 years. While the quality of the product is, of course, excellent, the feeling of acquiring a pair of shoes truly tailored to me by a skilled craftsman practising his art within the John Lobb store – a sensation I experienced 25 years ago – remains unchanged even after this long interval. It evokes nostalgia and, simultaneously, leaves me impressed by their enduring philosophy.

This time, I present the Lawry, John Lobb’s signature boot.

[ John Lobb Barros’ article ]

Barros’ article also mentions the Marunouchi branch purchased on this occasion.

John Lobb Lawry

Unlike the Barros introduced previously, the more modern, long-nosed 7000 last creates a refined silhouette that appears sharp from the instep to the toe.

The texture of John Lobb Lawry suede

The suede is soft, so it’s difficult to appreciate in photographs, but these boots boast a beautifully refined form.

Introduction.

Although I owned several pairs of boots, they were all work-style boots with rounded toes. I didn’t own any Chelsea boots or side-zip boots, which follow the lineage of leather shoes. The reason was that, despite being boots, they had a formal shape suitable for suits and the like, so I didn’t feel they were necessary for my casual style.

My approach to fashion has shifted somewhat, leading me to choose the John Lobb Chelsea boot, the Lawry, which I’m introducing here. Crafted on John Lobb’s now-standard 7000 last, these boots feature a cleaner, more refined silhouette from instep to toe compared to my older John Lobb shoes.

With casual wear in mind, I opted for dark brown suede rather than the classic black calf leather.

While the suede lends a casual feel, the construction and form are quintessentially John Lobb, resulting in a refined silhouette that pairs well with suits. Compared to the Barros U-tip introduced in my previous article, the curve from the instep to the toe is slightly sharper and more refined. This creates an elegant silhouette that avoids excessive casualness, despite the suede.

Black calf leather is also extremely refined, but personally, I find it can appear a little stiff when paired with denim or chinos, hence my choice of dark brown suede. (The boot silhouette does look more polished in glossy black calf leather.)

Lawry

Lawry had considered purchasing a pair ten years ago, specifically wanting black suede, but it wasn’t part of the standard range. It would have required ordering via their “By Request” made-to-order service.

John Lobb’s “By Request” service incurs a surcharge of around 30%. They do run a “By Request Fair” in early spring where orders can be placed without this surcharge, but I was never able to make it work logistically and ended up not buying.

Recently, I gifted a pair of Berluti shoes to a friend and junior colleague as a congratulatory present, which made me consider buying myself some leather shoes. I thought about the John Lobb Lawry I’d wanted before, and even considered the standard calf leather version. Wanting to see the shoes in person, I visited the John Lobb Marunouchi store.

Upon arriving at the Marunouchi store, I asked to see the calf leather Lawry. As I visited late on a weekday, a private room used for bespoke fittings at the back was available, and I was shown in.

The staff member mentioned that having a purchase history would make sizing easier. I explained that my last purchase was 25 years ago, so the record might not exist, and provided my name and phone number. The staff member checked immediately and found my details in the customer register. They said that since my previous Derby purchase was a size 7½ on the 8695 last, a size 7½ Lawry would be suitable, and brought out a black calf leather Lawry in 7½.

I tried them on immediately; the size 7½ was absolutely perfect. The beautiful form and comfort were superb, and I was considering the black calf leather Lawry, but when I asked if they had a suede version, they mentioned a dark brown option and checked stock. The Marunouchi store didn’t have the size 7½ dark brown suede Lawry in stock, so they brought a size 8 dark brown suede pair so I could see what it looked like.

It was slightly large, but I tried it on to get a feel for the overall look. During the fitting, I confirmed that the suede was softer and more comfortable to wear than the calf leather. Standing in front of the mirror to check the overall impression, it had a softer, more casual feel than the black calf leather, which I preferred, so I decided on the dark brown suede Lawry.

Size 7½ is fine, so I request the dark brown suede Lawry to be ordered.

At this point, I ask the staff if it’s possible to add rubber soles to the leather soles. They confirm that the John Lobb Marunouchi store can handle this. It feels like a different era compared to the old image, where I couldn’t imagine a John Lobb flagship store offering such a service.

John Lobb Marunouchi Store

During my conversation with staff at the John Lobb Marunouchi store, I asked whether this Marunouchi location had relocated twice.

They explained that after opening initially, the store first moved to the opposite side of Nakadori Street before recently relocating to its current premises.

I mentioned that my purchase history was quite old (25 years ago), having bought shoes at the Minatomirai branch and the Aoyama flagship store in Gaien.

This led to talk of the store manager at that time. The staff member assisting me had also worked with that manager.

When I described him as having the gentle character I remembered, yet being a leather enthusiast and a great lover of John Lobb shoes, the staff member nodded in agreement.

I conveyed that had it not been for the then Aoyama flagship store manager passionately extolling the virtues of John Lobb shoes, my perception of them might have been different, and I might not own and cherish a pair today.

This led to a discussion about how that manager was something of a missionary, increasing the number of John Lobb enthusiasts in Japan.

At that time, John Lobb shoes were high-end, but not as expensive as they are now. Rather than being a luxury brand, they were seen as the finest shoes, meticulously crafted by shoemakers.

After the bubble economy, they were introduced to Japanese consumers, whose tastes had been refined by the bubble, as one of the finest products available overseas.

They also fundamentally changed the way Japanese people chose leather shoes. The widespread adoption of plain-toe Oxfords with suits in Japan was largely influenced by British shoes such as John Lobb and Edward Green.

The staff at the Marunouchi store who assisted me this time not only possess extensive knowledge about John Lobb shoes, but also offer advice tailored to each customer’s usage patterns and occasions.

They also provide clear explanations about the differences in lasts, a topic frequently discussed when purchasing John Lobb shoes.

As mentioned with Berluti, John Lobb also meticulously maintained purchase records dating back 25 years. As leather shoes are items with an exceptionally long lifespan, many customers use them for a lifetime.

Consequently, the extended timeframe for customer management is a hallmark of premier shoe retailers. Naturally, both Berluti and John Lobb thoroughly retain and manage the purchase histories of their customers.

Because they are aware of my past purchase history, much like Lawry, when I inquired whether rubber soles could be fitted to my three pairs of leather-soled shoes, they examined the condition of the shoes.

They explained that unless the leather soles required a full sole replacement (all-sole), they could prepare the leather soles during maintenance and apply rubber soles, meaning the cost and turnaround time would not be excessive.

As John Lobb shoes with shoe trees inserted are quite heavy, bringing all three pairs at once would be difficult. I therefore informed them I would bring them in one pair at a time when I found the time.

I also recalled a past anecdote, a metaphor used by shoe enthusiasts comparing John Lobb to Berluti: “John Lobb could kill a man, but Berluti couldn’t” (meaning that sturdy John Lobb shoes, quite heavy with shoe trees inserted, could serve as a murder weapon for bludgeoning, whereas whereas Berluti, with its softer leather and lighter weight even with a shoe tree, wouldn’t make a suitable murder weapon).

John Lobb shoes also fall within a considerably high price bracket, positioning the brand as a luxury retailer akin to Berluti.

The distinction between the two lies in the fundamental approach to customer service: Berluti prioritises the high-end brand experience, treating shoes as an extension of this, resulting in exceptionally attentive and considerate service tailored to the customer.

John Lobb also presents a high-end brand image in its shop design and merchandise, but its approach is fundamentally more homely.

Its stance is less about offering luxury shoes and more about providing well-made footwear. Product explanations focus less on appearance or status and more on topics like the difference in comfort due to the last used, or the intended usage environment for the shoes available.

Staff make suggestions based on the customer’s intended use, guiding them towards selecting shoes that suit them.

Both brands employ staff well-versed in apparel, who will discuss your attire and preferences while assisting with shoe selection. This conversation becomes a truly enjoyable, blissful experience for those passionate about clothing and footwear.

Compared to Berluti, John Lobb sees greater business use, making them particularly adept at discussing formal attire like suits. Rooted in British tradition (though actually French-owned), their focus is more on dressing than pure fashion, meaning conversations about suits and shirts tend to lean more conservative than those at Berluti.

While proceeding with the Lawry fitting, arranging for items to be ordered, and making arrangements to have rubber applied to the leather soles, the conversation flowed freely—covering John Lobb shoes, stories of past shops, and the fashion worn that day.

Conversations with staff at the Marunouchi store also evoked the same stance I sensed 25 years ago at the Aoyama store: providing customers with shoes made from truly fine leather, meticulously crafted by skilled shoemakers, tailored to fit them perfectly, and intended to be cherished for years. It proved a most pleasant experience.

Purchase and Maintenance

The dark brown suede size I selected was unavailable at the Marunouchi store, so it had to be ordered. It arrived at the Marunouchi store within a few days, spanning the weekend, and I took it straight to the workshop to have rubber soles fitted.

I was informed it would be ready for collection in about a week, with home delivery also possible.

When collecting the Lawry shoes, I mentioned that I would be bringing in the Barros shoes for maintenance, and would return another day.

Trying on the Lawry shoes after they came back from the workshop was fine, and the rubber had been applied neatly.

I collected the Lawry shoes and requested maintenance for the Barros shoes I brought in that day, along with rubber soles. The staff member assessed the condition and confirmed that a full sole replacement wasn’t necessary.

They provided an estimate and approximate completion time for the maintenance and rubber sole application work. The price was very reasonable, so I agreed without hesitation.

At this point, the staff member remarked nostalgically that the Barros shoe trees were an older type.

John Lobb Lawry – side view

The curve from toe to heel is beautifully formed, and this curve is designed to enhance comfort rather than merely for visual appeal.

John Lobb Lawry – Front view

The suede upper lacks the sheen of leather, making the form less apparent, yet it retains the classic Chelsea boot silhouette. It features a beautiful curved line from the instep to the toe, narrowing at the heel and arch before widening at the ball of the foot and tapering towards the toe.

John Lobb Lawry – rear view

The curve from the heel’s bulge to the ankle creates an exquisite fit when actually worn.

John Lobb Lawry – top view

I did not take any photographs, but the shoe box has been changed to a reddish-purple colour, and the shape of the shoe tree has also been made more user-friendly.

I had rubber soles fitted to my shoes

When purchasing, I had rubber soles fitted to the shoes. This allows me to wear them without issue even on surfaces where leather soles would be slippery.

Wearing example.

This time, I’ve paired Lawry with chinos and slim-fit cotton trousers. As beige-toned trousers complement it better, I haven’t combined it with denim.

I’m wearing them with a pair of Boncoura chinos.

Rather than just looking at the shoes, you can really appreciate their refined form when you actually wear them.

I’m wearing them with a pair of slim-fit trousers from Visvim.

Pairing them with trousers that are slimmer than chinos creates a well-balanced and elegant combination.

Lawry
- Last 7000
- Colour: Dark Brown Suede
- Leather: Suede
- Sole: Single Sole
- Size: 7 1/2 E Width
Combination

Five-Pocket Trousers: Visvim

Shoes: John Lobb Barros

Chino Trousers: Boncoura

Knitwear: Boncoura

In conclusion

This time, I purchased John Lobb shoes for the first time in 25 years. Times have changed, and alongside the orthodox, timeless British shoes, the range now includes trendier styles.

The brand seemed more high-end than before. However, upon actually visiting the shop, handling the products, trying them on, and making the purchase, I found the essence remained firmly intact: that traditional British shoemaker’s stance, like a bespoke shop, offering shoes crafted by skilled shoemakers tailored to the customer, just as I had experienced 25 years ago.

A defining characteristic of John Lobb shoes is that the impression they make when admired without being worn differs, in a positive sense, from the impression when actually worn. This stems from the truly excellent leather selected, the meticulous craftsmanship, and the universally superb design.

Being very orthodox British shoes, they are not flashy, yet they possess an intrinsic dignity that adds a sense of quality to the wearer’s ensemble.

The Lawry I purchased this time is also from John Lobb’s classic line, a very orthodox Chelsea boot.

I opted for suede, which is not the most conventional choice, but both the construction and style are quintessentially John Lobb. Even when worn casually, the quality and dignity are maintained. This is the result of a long history of consistently producing fine items without sparing effort.

Being rather pricey, they aren’t something one buys frequently. Yet, when worn, they exude a refined elegance. Their superb comfort and robust construction, promising years of loyal service, inevitably make one yearn for the next pair.

Being suede, they require less upkeep than leather shoes, though one misses the pleasure of polishing them to make them truly one’s own. Nevertheless, the quality of the leather and the craftsmanship ensure they are excellent shoes that will be enjoyed for many years to come.

Shop

This time, I purchased Lawry at the John Lobb Marunouchi store.

As I’ve mentioned several times in the article, it is one of the world’s finest shoes and a brand representing British footwear. With Hermès capital involved, the store exudes a high level of luxury, creating an atmosphere that makes it rather difficult to pop in casually.

However, upon entering the shop, viewing the shoes, and listening to the staff’s explanations, one encounters not merely the image of a luxury brand, but the robust, no-nonsense world of British footwear. These are shoes crafted by skilled shoemakers; they may lack flashy appearance, but they are designed to fit the wearer perfectly, offering exceptional comfort, durability, and longevity.

The staff, too, feel less like luxury brand personnel and more like traditional shoemakers. They pay close attention to foot shape and offer advice to help customers select shoes that truly suit them.

The true value of John Lobb shoes is one that customers come to appreciate after wearing them for a considerable period. This value lies in the shoes gradually moulding to the wearer’s feet over time, achieving a fit and comfort unmatched by other footwear.

John Lobb shoes are exceptionally well-made; if cherished and worn carefully, they can last a lifetime. I have owned three pairs of Derby shoes for 25 years.

They show no signs of deterioration; rather, years of wear have moulded them perfectly to my feet. While offering a distinct comfort from trainers, they remain remarkably easy to walk in for extended periods without fatigue, making them utterly indispensable.

John Lobb shoes are fundamentally classic, yet exude understated elegance when worn. The brand provides high-quality footwear tailored to the wearer and operates a system designed for long-term enjoyment.

It offers an experience closely aligned with British sartorial culture – akin to having shoes fitted by a British gentleman at a historic British shoemaker’s workshop for years of cherished use.

While the threshold may feel slightly high, the Marunouchi store, which operates with a deep understanding of John Lobb’s philosophy and history, is highly recommended for those seeking shoes that truly fit their feet, possess understated elegance, and can be worn for a lifetime.

JohnLobb Official Website

2026-03-10

2026-06-11
2026-03-10
Alanui Icon Jacquard Cardigan
Introducing Alanui’s Couchin Sweater, crafted by highly skilled artisans using luxurious, premium cashmere.

When I think of Couchin Sweaters, I recall the thick shawl-collar cardigans reminiscent of Canadian folk costumes that my friends wore during the 90s Americana boom. The colours were ivory and brown, with geometric patterns.

As I mentioned in my article on Boncoura’s fisherman’s sweater, while I do like thick knits, they inevitably let the wind through, making them difficult to wear in the depths of winter.

This meant that, despite wanting to try a Couchin sweater, it was one I never quite got round to buying.

About five years ago, during a rare visit to Barneys with my wife, the staff member assigned to her suggested this Alanui cardigan. Its intriguing design and comfortable feel led me to purchase it – the Icon Jacquard Cardigan I’m introducing today.

Alanui

Alanui is a relatively new Italian brand founded by a former Vogue staff member. It focuses on environmental issues while developing garments designed to be worn for a long time without being discarded.

The theme is clothing that feels comfortable to wear while travelling, offering designs that are both excellent and exceptionally relaxed and comfortable to wear.

True to its theme of comfortable, long-lasting wear, the brand places considerable emphasis on materials and construction. While its mainstay is knitwear using premium cashmere, it also offers slightly oversized pieces.

They lavishly use cashmere yarn from Carriaggi, Italy’s premier cashmere spinning mill.

Knits are crafted using jacquard weaving with several types of yarn, resulting in cashmere sweaters with highly intricate designs and colour schemes.

A famous example is the Icon Jacquard Cardigan featured here – a jacquard-woven cowl neck sweater with fringe detailing.

The pattern I own is a cowichan sweater featuring a design reminiscent of a Native American rug mat, with a black base and stripes of blue, red, and yellow – a style rarely seen in recent collections.

Alanui Icon Jacquard Cardigan

As it dates from the late 2010s, the oversized fit is not extreme, merely featuring slightly dropped shoulders.

Alanui Icon Jacquard Cardigan

The asymmetrical colour scheme on the back subtly showcases the craftsman’s exceptional skill.

Alanui Icon Jacquard Cardigan

A cashmere knit with this much fringe was probably first introduced by Alanui.

Alanui Icon Jacquard Cardigan Logo

Alanui features a medal on its logo.

Alanui Icon Jacquard Cardigan: Intricate knitwork

It features a simple yet highly intricate braid.

Alanui Icon Jacquard Cardigan: Meticulously woven jacquard

It is meticulously woven using the Jacquard technique.

Introduction.

Knitwear as outerwear

Personally, during winter, I inevitably end up choosing warm outerwear due to the lower temperatures in the early morning and late at night. Being rather lazy by nature, my clothing choices tend to jump straight from summer shorts and T-shirts to winter down jackets, skipping over the lighter outerwear suitable for early winter or early summer.

Though not mentioned in the article, what I often wear in early winter or early summer are zip-up hooded parkas or Patagonia’s R1 thin fleece. They’re easy to wash and manage, so I inevitably end up reaching for them.

My approach to buying clothes, when considered annually, was largely limited to two purchases: cool summer items and warm winter items, and that was about it.

However, around thirty years ago, I started buying clothes at Barneys, where my wife often shopped. A Barneys staff member taught me that purchasing clothing four times a year – spring, summer, autumn, and winter – tailored to the temperature, and combining these pieces, leads to comfortable and seasonally appropriate dressing.

This prompted me to buy lightweight outerwear for early spring and late autumn.

After taking care of my parents, my interest in fashion waned, so I reverted to my original approach of selecting summer and winter garments rather than the four-season approach taught at Barneys.

In recent years, my perspective on the clothes I wear has shifted, and I now enjoy fashion in the manner described in the articles on this site.

This preamble has become rather lengthy, but regarding knitwear, my long-held view was that it was something worn as an inner layer during winter. However, the cowichan sweater I’m introducing here is a knit designed to be worn as an outer layer.

Due to the nature of knitwear construction, it inevitably becomes chilly when windy in winter, making it difficult to wear on windy days. Yet, on calm days, it provides warmth and comfort even in winter, making it a valuable piece.

Icon Jacquard Cardigan

Alanui’s Icon Jacquard Cardigan features a jacquard weave inspired by the traditional Couchin sweater, showcasing various patterns. It boasts a shawl collar, pockets with edging, and fringe detailing. Designed for relaxed travel wear, it has a slightly oversized fit.

My Icon Jacquard Cardigan is 100% cashmere, though recent material research has led to the development of blends such as cashmere-silk-cotton tri-blends.

While authentic cowichan sweaters tend to be quite heavy and stiff, the Icon Jacquard Cardigan, whilst resembling a cowichan, is remarkably light and soft, offering excellent comfort.

The one I’m wearing features a Native American rug-inspired pattern, rather than the geometric pattern typical of the current Icon Jacquard Cardigan’s classic Couchin design.

Cariaggi lanificio s.p.a.

Alanui’s cashmere utilises high-quality, colour-fast cashmere yarn from Italy’s Carriaggi.

A defining characteristic of Carriaggi’s cashmere yarn is its twisted construction, which, despite being cashmere, offers greater durability compared to other cashmere yarns.

This results in reduced pilling, a common weakness of cashmere.

It is said that Brunello Cucinelli’s cashmere knitwear, which I greatly respect, utilises this Carriaggi cashmere yarn. While other renowned brands are also reported to use Carriaggi yarn, high-end houses like Brunello Cucinelli do not officially disclose their materials.

Consequently, the specific use of Carriaggi cashmere yarn is not widely recognised.

Brunello Cucinelli has deep ties with Carriaggi. It is well known that Brunello Cucinelli gained fame through its cashmere knitwear, which led to its current successful business expansion.

It is also said that when Mr Brunello Cucinelli founded the company, he purchased cashmere yarn from Carriaggi, subsequently producing the highly regarded, premium-quality cashmere knitwear.

Brunello Cucinelli is also listed among the shareholders of Carriaggi, while Chanel is among the shareholders of other top fashion houses.

I own three Brunello Cucinelli cashmere knits and one cashmere-silk knit. I find they resist pilling remarkably well; even when wearing a car seatbelt, I notice little pilling on my shoulders or underarms. This is something I consistently appreciate as a hallmark of Brunello Cucinelli’s cashmere knitwear.

Alanui’s cashmere knitwear also exhibits similar resistance to pilling. Upon investigating the reason, I discovered they utilise cashmere yarn from the Carriaggi company, which explains the high quality and is entirely convincing.

I myself am not particularly knowledgeable about fashion, so I had no interest whatsoever in matters concerning materials or spinning.

However, it is fascinating that there exists an excellent Italian spinning company specialising in cashmere, and that cashmere knitwear spun from their yarn is said to be more comfortable to wear, have better colour fastness, and be more durable than standard cashmere knitwear.

When you actually wear products made from it, you can clearly feel the difference.

When one indulges in a hobby like dressing well, one’s interest extends beyond the product itself to its origins. Understanding the reasons behind its creation and quality craftsmanship fosters a deeper affection for the item.

I had already noticed the exceptional comfort and durability of Brunello Cucinelli knitwear and the Alanui knit featured in this article.

Discovering that the reason lies in the cashmere yarn used makes perfect sense.

I feel that the very essence of a brand name – that sense of reliability – naturally encompasses an unseen commitment to quality, something we don’t consciously think about in everyday life.

I later asked a member of staff at Brunello Cucinelli, who told me that Brunello Cucinelli sources its cashmere directly from Mongolia.

They have a good relationship with Carriage, and whilst they do not use their knitwear, they do use Carriage’s cashmere fabrics for items such as jackets. (Added on 25 March 2026)

Combination

Alanui’s Icon Jacquard Cardigan is a cowichan sweater, and as it pairs well with denim in an Americana style, I’ve combined it with jeans.

Alanui’s suggestion is a relaxed style, so ideally it should be worn with slightly loose-fitting, faded denim that allows unrestricted movement. However, I’ve paired it with slim-fit denim from Visvim.

For reference, I’ve also compiled a styling example with 501XX jeans. The overall silhouette pairs exceptionally well with the 501XX’s wide cut. While this combination offers a more timeless and balanced look, my current preference leans towards a slightly slimmer bottom, hence the Visvim slim-fit jeans.

As it’s a cowl neck jumper, the neckline is open, so I often wear a scarf with it. Since the knit has a pattern, I pair it with a plain-coloured scarf. As it’s a very casual combination, I’ve chosen a cashmere knit scarf from Cruciani.

For the inner layer, in winter I wear a thin Brunello Cucinelli cashmere-silk crew neck, and in early spring I simply pair it with a T-shirt.

The Alanui Icon Jacquard Cardigan excels in its quality, offering a substantial cashmere knit with an open chest. This allows you to enjoy it well into early spring by simply changing the inner layer.

Even with a classic style – a white T-shirt underneath, faded denim and trainers – you can achieve a relaxed yet sophisticated look.

Wearing example.

(1) Combined with Visvim’s slim-fit denim

This season, I’ve been wearing slimmer-fit denim and trousers more often than the traditional straight-leg Levi’s or Lee jeans. For this Aranui Icon Jacquard Cardigan, I’ve paired it with Visvim’s Slim Straight, which also has a slimmer silhouette.

As it’s still a bit chilly, I’m wearing a Brunello Cucinelli cashmere-silk crew neck underneath. Should I feel cold around the neck or chest, I’ll wrap a　Cruciani cashmere knit scarf.

On my feet, I’m wearing White’s semi-dress shoes, which pair well with denim.

Styling with Visvim Slim Fit Denim

Simply throwing it on casually creates a relaxed look.

Paired with Visvim slim-fit denim – rear view

The silhouette from behind is also exceptionally beautiful.

I’ll try wrapping my scarf around my neck.

If it feels a bit chilly, wrapping a scarf around your neck and chest should do the trick.

I’ll pair it with a plain cashmere scarf.

As the knit has a pattern, I’ve paired it with a plain-coloured scarf.

Even with a voluminous scarf, the look comes together beautifully.

The scarf has volume, yet the overall silhouette is neatly put together.

It creates a beautiful silhouette from behind as well.

The back view is also neatly put together.

If you don’t fasten the front buttons, wear the scarf loosely.

If you’re going to leave it open at the front, I’ll wrap the scarf loosely.

(2) Combined with Levi’s 501XX

Compared to Visvim’s slim silhouette, this is a more orthodox cut, but a slightly wider straight leg like the 501XX offers a more universal and balanced silhouette.

As it was cold on the day of the shoot, I paired it with a thin knit inner layer, but in early spring, pairing it with a white T-shirt or similar inner layer creates a more casual and relaxed style.

Paired with Levi’s 501XX

The overall silhouette is more universally balanced with the slightly wider leg of the 501XX.

The width of the 501XX creates a relaxed silhouette.

The slightly loose fit from the thigh down to the hem of the 501XX pairs well with knits, creating a cohesive overall silhouette.

The silhouette when paired with the 501XX is also well-balanced.

The silhouette balance from behind is also good.

Detail
- Alanui Icon Jacquard Cardigan
- Made in 2019
- Fabric: 100% cashmere
- Size: M
Combination
- Denim: Visvim
- Denim: Levi’s 501XX (1954)
- Cashmere silk crew neck: Brunello Cucinelli
- Cashmere knit scarf: Cruciani
- Knit beanie: Brunello Cucinelli
- Boots: White’s Semi-Dress
- Belt: Real McCoy’s
In conclusion

Similar to Boncoura’s fisherman sweater, I introduced Alanui’s Icon Jacquard Cardigan, a thick knit worn as outerwear. Its appearance doesn’t suggest traditional cashmere knitwear, yet when worn, it proves to be high-quality cashmere, exceptionally comfortable, and stylish even when casually thrown on.

The patterns and motifs, while North American in design, are constructed by an Italian brand from an Italian perspective, making it a highly intriguing cardigan.

When I first saw Alanui knitwear at Barneys, my initial impression overlapped with that of Lucien Pellat-Finet. Much like Pellat-Finet, who weaves skulls and hemp motifs into traditional luxury cashmere knitwear, Alanui’s cashmere knitwear, inspired by Native American clothing motifs, was remarkably interesting, diverging significantly from the conventional image of cashmere knitwear.

When I previously purchased Lucien Pellat-Finet knitwear at Barneys, I was informed that the strong twist in the Scottish cashmere yarn allows for home washing. Pellat-Finet knitwear also exhibited remarkable durability, resisting pilling even when caught on car seatbelts.

Alanui’s knit, woven from Carriaggi’s high-quality cashmere yarn, is also highly resistant to pilling. Including its design and concept, it evokes for me the image of Perlafine from the 2010s. (Alanui recommends dry cleaning.)

Despite being knitwear, it functions superbly as outerwear, wearable from early winter through to early spring. While I wouldn’t do it myself being prone to overheating, draping it over faded cut-off denim on an early summer evening creates an outstanding look with a hint of surfer style. As the weather warms, I plan to showcase pairings with cut-off denim and T-shirts.

Shop

The Alanui Icon Jacquard Cardigan featured here was purchased at Barneys New York’s Yokohama store.

Whilst I haven’t visited recently, both my wife and I frequented the store extensively in the early 2000s, purchasing various items. Both the men’s and women’s departments assigned us dedicated stylists. Having shopped there for many years, they offered tailored suggestions based on our existing wardrobe and preferences, and we learned a great deal from Barneys.

Just recalling brings to mind Carpe Diem, Carol Christian Poell, Lucien Pellat-Finet, LA-style denim, HTC, Burberry Prorsum (the original), Jil Sander (under her own name), Helmut Lang, Dolce & Gabbana, Dior Homme, and Saint Laurent under Tom Ford, amongst many others.

Though not clothing, I’ve used Aesop products like face creams, body creams, shampoos, and their room fragrances for over 20 years, having discovered them at Barneys.

Items purchased at Barneys during that era, including their design, were of such high quality that they became popular among juniors and friends, and I ended up passing on most of them. Their selection truly exceeded the typical scope of a select shop.

Fly shirts, Borrelli shirts, Kiton, Attolini, Belvest – these were all items I discovered at Barneys. My own interest in fashion waned in the 2010s, so I gradually stopped visiting, but for my wife, it remains a wonderful store she has patronised for over twenty years.

Having frequented the shop for many years and interacted with various staff members, I witnessed several changes in ownership and direction.

This transformed it from the initially edgy, New York flagship-style store, leading to staff departures. The image of Barneys – that of a shop with a sharp edge yet staff who genuinely understood customers and offered excellent advice – has faded. Nevertheless, it remains a splendid shop.

Not just Barneys, but high-end clothing stores in general seem to be facing tougher business conditions compared to earlier times. I sincerely hope they persevere.

Recently, I made a sudden purchase of a different item after a long time. The staff’s service was as splendid as ever, and the joy of visiting the shop, selecting clothes, and making a purchase remains firmly intact.

The Ginza store has recently reopened after refurbishment, and the range of items on offer is comprehensive. The signature Barneys style, where you can complete your entire look, remains very much alive. Why not pop in with your wife on a day off?

※ In the late 2010s, Alanui items were available in Japan, including at Barneys. However, as of February 2026, there is no official Japanese distributor for Alanui, and the brand is no longer carried by select shops or similar retailers. To purchase Alanui items, you must do so via the brand’s official Italian website or international online retailers such as Farfetch.

Barneys New York Official Website

“Berneys New York” Global shipping is not supported. Come to the shop when you come to Japan.

2026-03-03

2026-06-11
2026-03-03
M65 Field Jacket 2nd.Model
I like vintage clothes and I love military wear as well as denim such as Levi’s and Lee. I think the M65 field jacket introduced here is the one that people who like vintage clothes and military wear are interested in or actually get hold of at least once.

The M65 field jacket is the royal road in the royal road of the field jacket of the military system, and the original is the military uniform of the US military supply, and the one that the US military regularly supplied to the member that comes out in second-hand clothes, the one that the regular contractor sold for the public, and the one released from various brands that made M65 a motif. The field jacket is a jacket that has many opportunities to be worn and seen by many people such as those who wear it.

I love M65 field jackets and have three of them in different sizes and different ages.
- 2nd model (1969 made by APPLEL CORP OF AMERICA) Aluminium zip, epaulettes etc Size Small-Short
- 3rd model (remake of New Air Vintage, made in 1970s *tag removed so not identifiable) Brass zip, Medium-Short
- 3rd model (made by ALPHA INDUSTRIES in 1982) Brass zip, epaulettes, etc. Size Small-Short (very tight)
The one introduced this time becomes the second generation M65 that is most frequently used and was supplied by the US Army in the late 1960s, is called the second model, and revised the problems of the initial model (such as the change from no epaulettes to having epaulettes). (Made in 1969)

The second model is famous for being worn by Robert De Niro in the film Taxi Driver.

It is a real military uniform, and functionality is high, and the stoic form which arranged futility is very masculine, and it is very convenient outerwear which can make an atmosphere even if it is only put on denim and a rough jacket.

M65 Field Jacket 2nd.Model

The one I use will be the 2nd model, an older one with epaulettes and an aluminium zip.

M65 Field Jacket 2nd.Model

The functional beauty of the motifs adopted by the US military for functionality, such as the dual front closure with zip and buttons, four large flap pockets, stand collar with retractable hood and epaulettes on the shoulders, are characteristic of the M65 and have produced countless followers.

Introduction.

M65 Field Jacket

The M65 field jacket is a field jacket that was regularly used by the US military from 1965 to 2008. The fabric is a thick cotton-polyester blend surface and lining with a thin liner.

This means that it is not associated with the lightness that you might imagine from cotton-nylon outerwear. It is a genuine military garment and can be said to have a convincing mass when considering its durability and functionality.

As for the characteristic form, it is khaki-coloured because of its military specifications, epaulettes on both shoulders, four pockets with flaps, a stand collar with the hood stowed away, the front opening and closing is a double structure of zip and button, etc., and it has excellent functions based on its use as a military uniform and was inspired by the motif of the The outerwear is enormous and its influence on various outerwear designs is immeasurable.

Various outerwear with the M65 motif are in circulation, including authentic second-hand clothing that was regularly issued to members of the US military, as well as those made for civilian use by contractors who are official suppliers to the US military, including various brands from top maisons.

The M65 field jacket has a hard image because it is a genuine military uniform, but in fact it is very easy to wear and is an outerwear with excellent compatibility with various trousers and innerwear, so you can enjoy a variety of outfits if you have one.

Field Jacket.

I often have the opportunity to wear field jackets, which are a little rougher and more enjoyable than tailored jackets, as outerwear to match my denim. In addition to the M65 field jacket in this article, I also use Brunello Cucinelli field jackets, the M43, which is the ancestor of the M65, and the M47, which was adopted by the French army and influenced by the M43.

[ Brunello cucinelli fieldjacket’s article ]

[ M43 hbt fieldjacket’s article ]

[ M47 fieldjacket’s article ]

Field jackets are basically made of a single piece of cotton or cotton-polyester and are mainly worn in spring and autumn, as they are cold in mid-winter and hot in mid-summer. The above Brunello Cucinelli, M43 and M47 are used as outerwear from spring to autumn.

The M65 is a little thicker fabric and has a liner, so it is warmer than the M43 and M47, but it is still a single piece of cotton polyester with a liner, so you need to wear something warmer as an inner layer for mid-winter wear. Although I do not own one, there is also a thermal cotton liner made for the M65, which can be buttoned on and off.

I wear a thick sweater such as a fisherman’s jumper as an inner layer in midwinter, and not only M65s, but also military field jackets are made with ease of movement as a priority, so there is a reasonable amount of room in the sleeves and body width, so a thick inner layer can be worn without problems.

2nd.Model

The M65 field jacket introduced here is the second model made in 1969.The M65 is largely divided into four generations, starting with the initial model without epaulettes, followed by the 2nd model with epaulettes and an aluminium zip, the 3rd model with a brass zip and the 4th model with a plastic YKK zip. The 4th model has been changed to a YKK plastic zip. (There are minor changes.)

I chose the 2nd. model because I was looking for something in the right size, the size that fits me is the Small-Short and the Small-Short happened to be the 2nd. model in stock. As a result, I like the classic 2nd. form as well, but I didn’t start out looking for a 2nd. model. (I found out about the generation and the form after the purchase.)

The M65 field jacket has a tag on the inner neck, and by checking the contents of the tag, you can find out the age the US military issued the jacket, the size, etc. The DSA-100-69-C-0761 on the image of the tag below is the contractor information (delivery information) and the 69 in 100-69 indicates the year of manufacture.
The M65 Field Jacket Second Model differs from other models in that it features:
- Aluminium zippers
- Epaulettes
- Gusseted cuffs
- Chin strap made from the same fabric as the collar
These are its distinguishing characteristics.
1.Product label

M65 Field Jacket 2nd.Model Product label

The tag displays the chest width size, applicable height size, management number, contractor number, and contractor name. The “69” in DSA-100-69 denotes the year of manufacture.

2.Product label on the right side

M65 Field Jacket 2nd.Model Product label on the right side

The tag on the right side contains care instructions.

3.Epaulettes

M65 Field Jacket 2nd.Model Epaulettes

These are shoulder epaulettes. They have been fitted since the 1966 second model.

4.Aluminium zip fastener

M65 Field Jacket 2nd.Model Aluminium zip fastener

The front opening and closing, along with the hood storage section at the collar, feature aluminium zip fastenings.

5.neck strap

M65 Field Jacket 2nd.Model neck strap

The chin strap securing the stand collar is made from the same material. This is also a feature of the second model.

6.Cuff adjustment

M65 Field Jacket 2nd.Model Cuff adjustment

It features an adjustable gusset at the sleeve opening. This is also a characteristic of the second model.

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2026-02-24
Hermes Hat and Rectangle.

I frequently use accessories such as hats, scarves, and gloves, and they prove invaluable during the colder winter months. Whilst their primary purpose is warmth, incorporating slightly more refined pieces into everyday outfits allows one to enjoy a more sophisticated look.

This time, I’ll introduce two accessories I use that elevate everyday outfits to a more refined aesthetic: a Hermès hat and a Hermès Rectangle scarf.

When one thinks of Hermès, iconic women’s handbags like the Birkin or Kelly naturally spring to mind. However, their menswear and accessories also boast exceptional items crafted with considerable attention to detail.

This time, I’ve paired the Balthazar felt hat with the Rectangle cashmere-silk scarf, combining them with the Boncoura cashmere fisherman’s sweater and Brunello Cucinelli shearling biker jacket previously featured.

The brilliance of Hermès lies not only in the quality of its materials and craftsmanship, but also in its exquisitely French colour palette.

Whilst I generally favour conservative colour choices myself, incorporating Hermès’ French-inspired approach to playing with colour adds an extra dimension of enjoyment to styling.

Hermes Hat and Rectangle.

The Rectangle, featuring a base in that exquisite blue only Hermès can achieve, combines a bold pattern with three harmonious shades of the same colour family.

Paired with a hat in a coffee-toned, subdued dark brown, it presents an Italian-inspired marrone e azzurro (brown and blue) palette interpreted through a French lens.

Introduction.

Hats

As I’ve mentioned in past articles, I have a habit of always wearing a hat. This isn’t so much about fashion as it is about being naturally lazy; even when my hair is a mess, putting on a hat tidies it up nicely, so it’s become a natural habit.

Having worn hats for many years, I own quite a collection.

The overwhelming majority of my winter hats are knitted, and I wear them almost exclusively during the colder months. The primary reason I use knitted hats so often is, of course, their warmth. Additionally, knitted hats have the effect of making the head appear smaller.

The hat I’m introducing this time, the Hermès Balthazar, elevates the casual look I usually achieve with knitted hats to a more refined style.

Stoles

During winter, I frequently use scarves and stoles. My go-to is a lightweight cashmere stole by Brunello Cucinelli. When I want a slightly more casual look, I opt for a thicker, reversible cashmere scarf by Cruciani. I generally stick to cashmere scarves, but for pieces with beautiful patterns, I use cashmere-silk stoles as scarves.

A defining feature of the scarves and stoles I own is that they lack fringes. Scarves, often made from soft materials like cashmere, frequently come with fringes that serve a reinforcing purpose.

Fringes also have a decorative quality, so wearing a fringed scarf adds a stylish touch. The fringe itself can also lend a rather cute image.

I prefer plain, understated pieces, and I’m not in the habit of wearing decorative items, so I naturally choose scarves without fringes. (It wasn’t a conscious decision; I just ended up buying what I liked, and this was the result.)

The colours I own are mostly muted tones like navy, grey, and brown; I don’t own many bright scarves or stoles. Given my preferences, the Rectangle I’m introducing this time features a bright, glossy blue and a bold pattern – something I wouldn’t typically choose.

Balthazar

The Hermès felt hat, Balthazar, features classic black and the dark brown introduced here as its core colours, with seasonal colour variations each year.

Trends in headwear fluctuate; hats may come into vogue at times. However, with recent apparel trends leaning towards casual styles, items that pair easily with casual wear – such as caps, knit caps, and bucket hats – are currently trending over hats with a more formal feel.

I rarely wear hats myself. I once owned one purchased from Barneys, but as I seldom wore it, I passed it on to someone else and no longer had a hat.

My Balthazar features what’s called an H-loop, a ribbon embossed with the H mark. The colour is “café”, a dark brown, the shape is a classic hat, and the material is rabbit felt (felt made using rabbit fur). It has a lovely feel and is made quite thin.
It was never really a hat I intended to wear often.

However, whilst browsing for a Rectangle, I became intrigued by the hat. The combination of the hat and the Rectangle, selected and brought to me by a staff member at the Hermès Ginza store, featured an exquisite colour pairing that I wouldn’t have chosen based on my usual sensibilities. I was so impressed by its refined style that I ended up purchasing it.

Rectangle

The Hermès Rectangle, a cashmere silk scarf, takes its name from the French word “rectangle”, meaning rectangle. True to its name, it is a rectangular cashmere silk scarf measuring 63cm in width and 180cm in length.

Hermès is famed for its silk scarves for women, while its range for men includes cashmere mufflers, cashmere silk stoles, and smaller silk scarves like the Carré and Losange series.

The Rectangle I’m introducing today wasn’t originally intended for my own use. I visited the Hermès Ginza store looking for a scarf that would make a good gift. However, drawn in by the beautiful pattern and lovely feel against the skin, I tried wrapping it around my neck.

The quality of the material and the size were just right. True to Hermès stoles, the way it unfolds beautifully when tied was exquisite, and the interesting colour variations made me want it so much that I ended up buying it myself – a case of the hunter becoming the hunted.

Hermès’s men’s winter season scarves are broadly divided into two categories: 100% cashmere scarves and cashmere-silk stoles.

Due to the nature of the material, cashmere scarves have limitations regarding intricate patterns and colours. Conversely, the cashmere-silk stoles feature bold colour schemes and numerous unique patterns inspired by various motifs, much like women’s scarves.

My personal preference leans towards simple colours and patterns, yet Hermès’s magical design prowess ensures that patterns and colours which might appear garish on their own function, when actually worn, not as flashy elements but as sophisticated accents.

I’ve succumbed to this Hermès magic, purchasing rectangles in colours and patterns I would never traditionally have chosen.

When trying on this rectangle, the hat prepared by the staff member became Balthazar’s café. The exquisite pairing of the rectangle’s vivid blue, chosen by the staff to complement Balthazar’s dark brown, was splendid. It felt more refined than the other option available – a rectangle in grey and black – so I selected the blue rectangle.

As a standalone piece, the grey rectangle is splendid, and my conventional sensibilities would have led me to choose it. However, the combination of the dark brown hat and the vivid, deep blue rectangle is one I would rarely select based on my own taste; it embodies the Hermès aesthetic, and that is why I chose it.

Hermes

My perspective may be rather old-fashioned, but French luxury brands like Hermès and Louis Vuitton strike me as catering more to affluent women than to men. They feel somewhat beyond my station, and I don’t see myself purchasing or wearing their items.

The shoulder bag, leather gloves, and cologne I own were not chosen by me, but were gifts from my wife.Given this perspective, I had never before considered purchasing anything from Hermès for myself to wear.

The Ranch shoulder bag, gifted to me 25 years ago, is a high-quality calf leather piece with a refined brick-red colour and a sophisticated one-shoulder rucksack design.

However, its structure made accessing contents difficult, leading me to use it less frequently. Nowadays, however, the ingenious “bag-in-bag” solution exists, resolving past usability issues, so I intend to use it more going forward.

I have requested maintenance for the Ranch shoulder bag at the Ginza store. Though it is 25 years old, the leather was of excellent quality from the outset. While I have used it appropriately, there is no deterioration in the leather surface, stitching, or palladium plating.

The main work will involve leather cleaning and minor scratch repairs. The cost is not excessively high, and the turnaround time is approximately two months.

The leather gloves gifted to me 20 years ago are still in active use today, having been cherished for over two decades. The leather is exceptionally supple, and with silk lining on the inside, they are comfortable to put on and take off. They exemplify the remarkable quality of Hermès leather goods, possessing such durability that even after over 20 years of use, they remain entirely problem-free.

Although not an apparel item, I have been using Hermès cologne, which my wife keeps stocked for me, for over 20 years. The one I use regularly is called Jardin sur le Nil. Its refreshing citrus scent makes it unisex, suitable for both men and women.

That being said, I recently visited the Hermès Ginza store intending to buy a scarf as a gift for a friend. I was drawn to a beautiful pattern and asked to see the stoles. Trying one on to see what it was like, I ended up wanting it for myself and purchased it.When I was shown the stoles and hats, I handled Hermès men’s apparel for the first time.

While the expected sense of luxury and class was present, it differed from my preconceptions. They offer remarkably interesting garments, quite avant-garde with clever, quirky details in the best sense.

Quite remarkable pieces, like a coat appearing as a standard Chesterfield but with double-layered cashmere, or a khaki coat in a stand-collar Balmaquin style. The fabric is a coarse-weave serge, in a subtly bright khaki, with calf leather sleeves.

The collection presents garments that, worn by a gentleman of a certain age, would make for a splendidly distinguished older gentleman – an aesthetic that overlaps with Loro Piana. While Loro Piana uses ultra-luxurious materials like baby cashmere and vicuña, presenting conservative colours and designs, Hermès employs equally ultra-luxurious materials but presents garments imbued with Hermès’s unique aesthetic – or perhaps Parisian elegance – and a touch of humour.

While seemingly basic, there’s an intriguing element that makes them feel slightly off. I felt that to truly pull off these garments, one would need an identity and considerable refinement that could stand up to the Hermès label itself.

I hadn’t previously given much thought to Hermès items, but I’ve used their gloves for twenty years without issue; they’ve moulded perfectly to my hands. I stopped using their Ranch for a time, yet after twenty-five years of use, it remains flawless. Reflecting on it, while the leather’s durability is high, the exceptionally sturdy stitching – which never frays or renders the item unusable – is a defining characteristic of Hermès products.

I still feel I lack the identity to truly wear Hermès items, but this hat and the Rectangle bag are simply splendid. While I can’t deny it still feels somewhat beyond my station, I intend to cherish and use them properly. Hermès items are expensive, but if treated with care, they possess the durability and timeless design to last a lifetime.

Pages: 1 2

2026-02-17
John Lobb Barros : Things I have cherished for a long time.

A classic I’ve cherished for 25 years

I present my John Lobb Barros, a pair I have cherished for over a quarter of a century, more than 25 years. This was my first pair of John Lobb shoes, and I hold them in very fond regard.

Their form differs from the refined, clean lines of modern John Lobb designs, featuring the slightly rounded U-tip of a traditional British Derby shoe. I originally purchased them to pair with a navy blazer and grey flannel trousers.

Candy Co., Ltd.

I bought them during the era when there was a flagship store in Minato Mirai, Yokohama, and John Lobb sales were operated by Candy Co., Ltd. Candy was a company that sold very interesting things; whilst operating John Lobb, they also sold shirts from the British brand Hilditch & Key. Later, they became famous for selling Belgian chocolate, Pierre Marcolini.

Back then, there were only two John Lobb flagship stores in the Kanto region: the Minato Mirai store and the Aoyama flagship store along Route 246 in Gaien. The Minato Mirai store where I bought my Barros closed down, leaving only the Aoyama flagship store operating as the sole flagship outlet for a while.

Subsequently, I purchased the Darby and Chambord models consecutively at the Aoyama flagship store. The manager there was a fascinating character. Despite the store’s reputation for selling the world’s finest gentlemen’s shoes and its high-end brand atmosphere, he had the personality of an old-school shoemaker’s father figure. He himself seemed like a leather enthusiast, genuinely loving John Lobb shoes and running the shop for that reason.

I always enjoyed chatting with that manager and would invariably pop into the shop whenever I visited Aoyama. Back then, Gaien had the flagship store of my favourite shop, and strolling around the Gaien area – Cassina > Berluti > John Lobb > then on to Omotesando – was a real pleasure.

Berluti

My purchase of Berluti shoes came some time after acquiring John Lobb, but the manager at the Aoyama flagship store was a woman with an exceptional knowledge of men’s fashion. As my style at the time differed somewhat from the typical Berluti clientele (I favoured Carpe Diem), she often struck up conversations with me, and I rather enjoyed these fashion discussions.

Through that manager’s kindness, I was invited to events like new collection launch parties. I recall Kazuhiko Kato, a great admirer of Berluti, attending one such occasion. Though he was of a certain age, he was youthful, tall, and had an impeccable figure. I remember how incredibly stylish he looked, wearing Berluti shoes with such flair.

[ Berluti Alessandro’s Article ]

I have passed on my Berluti shoes to a junior colleague, but as it is such an excellent shop, I am writing an article about it.

An excellent import agent

Incidentally, in my mind, Candy, Cassina, and Sazaby League are three companies that introduced the world’s finest products to Japan faster than anyone else.

Candy handled John Lobb shoes and Hilditch & Key shirts. Cassina’s Mario Bellini Maralunga sofa and Frank Lloyd Wright coffee table, alongside Cassina’s own original bed, dressing table, and dining set – I actually purchased these pieces for my home and still cherish them today.

Though I passed on the Hilditch & Key shirts to a junior colleague fond of British fashion, the John Lobb shoes and Cassina furniture remain true masterpieces I’ve cherished for over a quarter-century.

The Maralunga has had its leather reupholstered once, yet remains in daily use in the living room. Its robustness is such that it shows no sign of wear or wobble; it truly is a sofa for life. I use an L-shaped arrangement comprising a single-seater sofa, an ottoman, and a wide two-seater sofa.

It is on this single-seater sofa and ottoman, relaxing, that I write this blog on my MacBook Pro. (I also purchased and love the Dyson crane-like lighting fixture I use when working on my Mac, which I bought through Cassina’s introduction).

I still have the Agnès b. striped shirt I bought when I was young (I did eventually get rid of it), as well as Ron Harman denim, T-shirts, and Frank and Irene shirts. When it comes to Sazaby League, it has become so commonplace, probably due to its operation of Starbucks Coffee, that it would be difficult to find someone who has never used it.

John Lobb Barros

Barros is a U-tip shoe crafted in a slightly rounded, charmingly form-fitting Derby style.

John Lobb Barros

At the time, my preference for leather shoes was double-soled derbies, and Barros are double-soled.

Introduction.

I purchased my John Lobb shoes 25 years ago and at one point rotated between three pairs. However, when I stopped wearing suits daily, opportunities to wear them diminished. Recently, due to a change in my mindset, I’ve gradually begun wearing them again.

At the time of purchase, I didn’t fully grasp the shop assistant’s claim that they were shoes for life. Yet, 25 years on, I truly understand what they meant by “a pair for life”.

This brand embodies a philosophy of what truly constitutes a fine product – encompassing not only robust construction but also timeless, enduring design.

The meticulous craftsmanship and decades of accumulated expertise mean that, with wear, the shoes gradually mould to the wearer, becoming an extension of the body. One can personally experience the legendary notion that once John Lobb shoes have been broken in, they become utterly indispensable.

At first glance, the design appears simply well-made, lacking ostentatious flair. Yet when worn, their intrinsic quality emerges naturally – true masterpieces backed by history.

The three pairs of Derby shoes I cherish are now discontinued, making new purchases impossible. It’s also regrettable that, with the changing times, John Lobb has discontinued the double-soled Derby itself.

In the past, I would only wear John Lobb shoes with a suit or blazer style. However, as I’ve grown older and become less constrained by such particulars, I’ve started wearing them again.

As I shall detail in another article, I recently purchased a pair of John Lobb Lawry boots for the first time in 25 years. The customer service at the Marunouchi store where I bought them was precisely the kind of personal, old-school shoemaker’s workshop experience I remember.

The service and attention were truly excellent. I also had the shoes I bought 25 years ago serviced, and they even fitted rubber soles to the leather ones – something I would never have considered back then.

In my youth, I held rather fundamentalist views and would never have considered rubber soles. However, leather soles have a significant drawback: they become extremely slippery on surfaces like marble floors, causing me to nearly fall on numerous occasions. Addressing such shortcomings is part of the shoemaker ethos that continues to be upheld by John Lobb today.

Pages: 1 2 3

2026-02-10
Boncoura Fisherman Sweater
I love old-fashioned, low-gauge, thick, rough knits, and I love fisherman jumpers and command jumpers. This time I would like to introduce a fisherman’s jumper made by Boncoura, of which I myself am a big fan.

Boncoura uses vintage clothing and military motifs as a motif, and with their unique interpretation and attention to detail, they make items with attention to detail, from the selection of fabrics and yarns to the smallest parts. The 66 series of denim, which was introduced in the article, is so thorough and particular that it is no more than this, and it has become excellent denim that can correspond also to modern fashion on the basis of overcoming the weak point of the original model with deep respect to Levi’s which was a motif, and the original model.

The fisherman’s jumpers made by Boncoura are naturally also made with considerable care. The knitting with a close grain, which is a feature of the fisherman’s sweater, makes it a considerably warm jumper even in midwinter because it has a considerable mass and is made of Shetland wool close to the original wool.

However, the wool of Shetland wool close to the raw wool is hard (often used in tweeds for jackets and coats) and when worn as a knit, the wool feels prickly if the wearer has sensitive skin. The wool contains oil, so it feels a little greasy to the touch. Because of its hard hair, it also has a slightly dry feel compared to merino or cashmere.

Boncoura offers a wide range of Fisherman’s Sweaters in merino wool and cashmere, so that even those who don’t like Shetland wool can enjoy them, Cashmere is also available.

Characteristics of each material
- Shetland wool This is the original fisherman’s jumper, so it has a pasty feel and a hard, prickly feel, but the texture is classic and the style in which it is worn is very wild and cool.
- Merino Wool This is an excellent way to ease the quirks of Shetland and enjoy a fisherman’s sweater with the feel of other knits. The texture of the merino makes it look more elegant than Shetland wool.
- Cashmere The comfort is superb and the cashmere has the best texture. The cashmere is luxuriously used from mass and isextremely warm and comfortable.
Boncoura’s fisherman jumpers are available in the three types described above.

I love two of them: the brown Shetland wool type, known as Café Au Lait, and the white Fisherman’s Sweater with luxurious cashmere, which is introduced here.

The actual knitting is thicker, more massive and very tightly knitted than it looks in the pictures, and the amount of cashmere used is about the same as three regular middle-gauge cashmere knits, making it a very luxurious fisherman’s jumper.

The silhouette of a fisherman’s sweater

Boncoura’s great sense of how to digest original items into contemporary fashion is outstanding in their clothes making. One of the characteristics of Boncoura’s fisherman jumpers is the raglan sleeves.

The conventional fisherman’s jumper is made thicker and warmer by knitting the fabric with a tight knit, but due to the structure of the knitting, it is difficult to create a curved line, and it is sometimes difficult to create a sleek silhouette when wearing it.

This feature (which is both the charm and the character of a rough-wearing fisherman’s jumper). The sleeves are made with raglan sleeves and the line around the chest from the shoulder is made into a clear silhouette so that the sweater can be worn in a modern way. This is also Boncoura’s unique attention to detail, and this ingenuity is also common to the silhouette of the denim that is developed to crease beautifully.

Boncoura Fisherman Sweater

This rough fisherman’s jumper is made from luxurious, high-quality cashmere and knitted thickly and densely, so it is warm enough to be worn on its own even in the middle of winter.

Boncoura Fisherman Sweater

Classic Shetland fisherman’s sweater in luxurious cashmere.

Introduction.

I’ve always adored classic, timeless pieces, and the fisherman’s sweater my parents wore during my childhood is one of my absolute favourite items. The fisherman’s sweater has its roots in the knitwear worn by British fishermen as cold-weather gear, featuring a tightly knitted, thick construction.

While the fisherman’s sweater is a motif I greatly admire, one drawback is its overall volume. From a modern fashion perspective, this bulk can create an image of looking rather puffy. Furthermore, the voluminous styling limits the outerwear that can be layered over it, somewhat restricting the occasions when it can be worn.

As I’ve grown older, my approach to dressing has changed considerably. Whereas before, there was an unwritten rule that outerwear was essential in the depths of winter, my perspective has shifted to thinking that even in midwinter, if it isn’t cold, outerwear isn’t strictly necessary.

This change in how I approach dressing has led me to embrace the fisherman’s sweater, which I previously avoided due to its limited wearability. It is the fisherman’s sweater from Boncoura, featured here, that has given me this new perspective. Even during the harshest winter days, daytime temperatures in the metropolitan area are warm enough to go without outerwear, making it invaluable for weekend strolls.

Incidentally, the reduced opportunity to wear down jackets also stems from this shift in clothing philosophy. In metropolitan winters, wearing a down jacket can become rather warm and feel somewhat over-specification. (I’m actually considering wearing down jackets again recently.)

Characteristics of Boncoura’s Clothing Production

As mentioned in other articles, I adore the clothing developed by Boncoura and have several beloved items. The excellence of Boncoura’s garments stems from a profound respect for vintage pieces, resulting in meticulous attention to detail throughout their construction.

Naturally, Boncoura’s superb craftsmanship is matched by an exceptional approach to ageing. With long-term wear, their pieces develop a natural, well-preserved vintage-like patina.

Each Boncoura item features a generous sizing philosophy, offering a range that allows anyone to create a wonderful style that showcases Boncoura’s dedication. This broadens the scope for styling possibilities.

Boncoura size range

My tolerance towards sizing is evident in my collection of 66 denim. I favour Boncoura’s 66 denim range, owning five pairs: 30-inch and 32-inch indigo, a 32-inch cut-off summer denim, a 32-inch pre-dyed black denim, and a 30-inch white denim.

[ Boncoura66’s Article ]

Though the colours differ, the reason I end up buying five pairs from one series lies in their sizing. I deliberately purchase two pairs in 30-inch and three in 32-inch – choosing the larger 32-inch size rather than a perfect fit has its rationale.

Boncoura’s sizing philosophy means the “just size” fits the body much like traditional denim, while the larger size is designed not to appear as oversized as conventional denim would.
- As mentioned in Article 66, Boncoura denim features meticulously calculated crease placement. These creases form beautifully, resulting in exceptionally stylish fading as the jeans are worn in. This synergy means that well-defined creases create a sleek, flattering silhouette. To fully appreciate this attractive fading, we recommend selecting a true-to-size pair and wearing them to establish crisp creases.
- Opting for one size up will still create creases, though not as pronounced as with a true-to-size fit. These creases still form beautifully, meaning even a larger size can make your legs appear slimmer. Personally, I own a 30-inch pair of indigo-dyed 66s to enjoy the fading process, and a 32-inch pair for more everyday wear, where I prefer a more moderate fade.
- For cut-off denim worn in summer, I choose 32 inches as a slightly looser fit is more comfortable. With black denim, I prefer 32 inches to achieve an overall even fade rather than focusing on whiskers or honeycombing. For white denim, where fading isn’t a concern, I select the exact size 30 inches because a clean crease pattern creates a more flattering silhouette.
One of Boncoura’s hallmarks is how altering the size of the same item allows you to enjoy different silhouettes and styling. If you wish to savour the slightly distinctive colour tones and styling achieved through careful ageing, choose your exact size. For a more relaxed look, simply go up one size.

The size range is also well-considered to accommodate various body types. This means that even as you age and your figure changes, you can select a size that fits your body, allowing you to enjoy the relaxed yet refined style Boncoura proposes. Even if, like me, you deliberately choose a size up, the styling remains intact, enabling you to enjoy a relaxed look – a unique commitment characteristic of Boncoura.
- The fisherman sweater featured here also employs a sizing approach similar to denim. The silhouette varies depending on the size chosen, allowing you to select based on your preferred shape.
- Given the weight and volume inherent to fisherman sweaters, they are constructed quite generously, with particularly ample width and armholes. For the Shetland version, I selected my usual size, 38, whilst for the cashmere, I opted for a slightly tighter fit with size 36.
Boncoura Shetland Wool Fisherman’s Sweater

This time I didn’t manage to take many photos, but I also wear the classic Shetland wool fisherman’s sweater regularly. This one is a size 38, so I wear it slightly loose. You can see it’s a bit wider and has more room than the size 36 cashmere fisherman’s sweater in the photo below.

Boncoura Cashmere Fisherman’s Sweater

Selecting size 36 will provide a slightly tighter fit than size 38 of the Shetland wool fisherman’s sweater above.

One reason I didn’t take many photos of the Shetland fisherman’s sweater this time is that it still hasn’t been worn in enough and retains some stiffness. Although it’s been over five years since I bought it, I haven’t worn it that much. This year, I’ve been wearing it more frequently, and it’s currently in the process of being worn in and aged, which is why I held off on introducing it.

I plan to write an article once I’ve worn it in a bit more and it’s broken in properly.

Generally, the finest fisherman’s sweater is the cashmere variety, offering superb comfort including texture, though it commands a high price. However, I believe the Shetland fisherman’s sweater – primitive, closer to the original style dating back centuries, with a stiffness and feel against the skin that is by no means pleasant – can become the ultimate piece. This is achieved through the time-consuming process of wearing it in, allowing it to mould to the wearer.

This is only possible because it’s a fisherman’s sweater, built robustly to withstand years of use. It embodies the same rugged, no-nonsense philosophy of British craftsmanship found in shoes like John Lobb, where items are made to be cherished.

This experience truly brings home that the value of clothing cannot be judged by price alone. The fact that Boncoura routinely produces and sells such items is another reason I cherish the brand.

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2026-02-03