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As mentioned in my previous article on Barros, I recently purchased a pair of John Lobb shoes for the first time in 25 years. The shoes I bought are the Lawry, a boot that epitomises John Lobb. The Lawry is a Chelsea boot featuring side gore panels. Whilst the classic choice is black calf leather, I opted for dark brown suede.

I chose the dark brown suede for its compatibility with denim and the beige-toned trousers I’ve been favouring lately.

This marked my first purchase at a John Lobb flagship store in 25 years. While the quality of the product is, of course, excellent, the feeling of acquiring a pair of shoes truly tailored to me by a skilled craftsman practising his art within the John Lobb store – a sensation I experienced 25 years ago – remains unchanged even after this long interval. It evokes nostalgia and, simultaneously, leaves me impressed by their enduring philosophy.

This time, I present the Lawry, John Lobb’s signature boot.

[ John Lobb Barros’ article ]

Barros’ article also mentions the Marunouchi branch purchased on this occasion.

Unlike the Barros introduced previously, the more modern, long-nosed 7000 last creates a refined silhouette that appears sharp from the instep to the toe.

The suede is soft, so it’s difficult to appreciate in photographs, but these boots boast a beautifully refined form.

Introduction.

Although I owned several pairs of boots, they were all work-style boots with rounded toes. I didn’t own any Chelsea boots or side-zip boots, which follow the lineage of leather shoes. The reason was that, despite being boots, they had a formal shape suitable for suits and the like, so I didn’t feel they were necessary for my casual style.

My approach to fashion has shifted somewhat, leading me to choose the John Lobb Chelsea boot, the Lawry, which I’m introducing here. Crafted on John Lobb’s now-standard 7000 last, these boots feature a cleaner, more refined silhouette from instep to toe compared to my older John Lobb shoes. 

With casual wear in mind, I opted for dark brown suede rather than the classic black calf leather.

While the suede lends a casual feel, the construction and form are quintessentially John Lobb, resulting in a refined silhouette that pairs well with suits. Compared to the Barros U-tip introduced in my previous article, the curve from the instep to the toe is slightly sharper and more refined. This creates an elegant silhouette that avoids excessive casualness, despite the suede.

Black calf leather is also extremely refined, but personally, I find it can appear a little stiff when paired with denim or chinos, hence my choice of dark brown suede. (The boot silhouette does look more polished in glossy black calf leather.)

Lawry

Lawry had considered purchasing a pair ten years ago, specifically wanting black suede, but it wasn’t part of the standard range. It would have required ordering via their “By Request” made-to-order service.

John Lobb’s “By Request” service incurs a surcharge of around 30%. They do run a “By Request Fair” in early spring where orders can be placed without this surcharge, but I was never able to make it work logistically and ended up not buying.

Recently, I gifted a pair of Berluti shoes to a friend and junior colleague as a congratulatory present, which made me consider buying myself some leather shoes. I thought about the John Lobb Lawry I’d wanted before, and even considered the standard calf leather version. Wanting to see the shoes in person, I visited the John Lobb Marunouchi store.

Upon arriving at the Marunouchi store, I asked to see the calf leather Lawry. As I visited late on a weekday, a private room used for bespoke fittings at the back was available, and I was shown in.

The staff member mentioned that having a purchase history would make sizing easier. I explained that my last purchase was 25 years ago, so the record might not exist, and provided my name and phone number. The staff member checked immediately and found my details in the customer register. They said that since my previous Derby purchase was a size 7½ on the 8695 last, a size 7½ Lawry would be suitable, and brought out a black calf leather Lawry in 7½.

I tried them on immediately; the size 7½ was absolutely perfect. The beautiful form and comfort were superb, and I was considering the black calf leather Lawry, but when I asked if they had a suede version, they mentioned a dark brown option and checked stock. The Marunouchi store didn’t have the size 7½ dark brown suede Lawry in stock, so they brought a size 8 dark brown suede pair so I could see what it looked like.

It was slightly large, but I tried it on to get a feel for the overall look. During the fitting, I confirmed that the suede was softer and more comfortable to wear than the calf leather. Standing in front of the mirror to check the overall impression, it had a softer, more casual feel than the black calf leather, which I preferred, so I decided on the dark brown suede Lawry.

Size 7½ is fine, so I request the dark brown suede Lawry to be ordered.

At this point, I ask the staff if it’s possible to add rubber soles to the leather soles. They confirm that the John Lobb Marunouchi store can handle this. It feels like a different era compared to the old image, where I couldn’t imagine a John Lobb flagship store offering such a service.

John Lobb Marunouchi Store

During my conversation with staff at the John Lobb Marunouchi store, I asked whether this Marunouchi location had relocated twice.

They explained that after opening initially, the store first moved to the opposite side of Nakadori Street before recently relocating to its current premises.

I mentioned that my purchase history was quite old (25 years ago), having bought shoes at the Minatomirai branch and the Aoyama flagship store in Gaien.

This led to talk of the store manager at that time. The staff member assisting me had also worked with that manager.

When I described him as having the gentle character I remembered, yet being a leather enthusiast and a great lover of John Lobb shoes, the staff member nodded in agreement.

I conveyed that had it not been for the then Aoyama flagship store manager passionately extolling the virtues of John Lobb shoes, my perception of them might have been different, and I might not own and cherish a pair today.

This led to a discussion about how that manager was something of a missionary, increasing the number of John Lobb enthusiasts in Japan.

At that time, John Lobb shoes were high-end, but not as expensive as they are now. Rather than being a luxury brand, they were seen as the finest shoes, meticulously crafted by shoemakers.

After the bubble economy, they were introduced to Japanese consumers, whose tastes had been refined by the bubble, as one of the finest products available overseas.

They also fundamentally changed the way Japanese people chose leather shoes. The widespread adoption of plain-toe Oxfords with suits in Japan was largely influenced by British shoes such as John Lobb and Edward Green.

The staff at the Marunouchi store who assisted me this time not only possess extensive knowledge about John Lobb shoes, but also offer advice tailored to each customer’s usage patterns and occasions.

They also provide clear explanations about the differences in lasts, a topic frequently discussed when purchasing John Lobb shoes.

As mentioned with Berluti, John Lobb also meticulously maintained purchase records dating back 25 years. As leather shoes are items with an exceptionally long lifespan, many customers use them for a lifetime.

Consequently, the extended timeframe for customer management is a hallmark of premier shoe retailers. Naturally, both Berluti and John Lobb thoroughly retain and manage the purchase histories of their customers.

Because they are aware of my past purchase history, much like Lawry, when I inquired whether rubber soles could be fitted to my three pairs of leather-soled shoes, they examined the condition of the shoes.

They explained that unless the leather soles required a full sole replacement (all-sole), they could prepare the leather soles during maintenance and apply rubber soles, meaning the cost and turnaround time would not be excessive.

As John Lobb shoes with shoe trees inserted are quite heavy, bringing all three pairs at once would be difficult. I therefore informed them I would bring them in one pair at a time when I found the time. 

I also recalled a past anecdote, a metaphor used by shoe enthusiasts comparing John Lobb to Berluti: “John Lobb could kill a man, but Berluti couldn’t” (meaning that sturdy John Lobb shoes, quite heavy with shoe trees inserted, could serve as a murder weapon for bludgeoning, whereas whereas Berluti, with its softer leather and lighter weight even with a shoe tree, wouldn’t make a suitable murder weapon).

John Lobb shoes also fall within a considerably high price bracket, positioning the brand as a luxury retailer akin to Berluti.

The distinction between the two lies in the fundamental approach to customer service: Berluti prioritises the high-end brand experience, treating shoes as an extension of this, resulting in exceptionally attentive and considerate service tailored to the customer.

John Lobb also presents a high-end brand image in its shop design and merchandise, but its approach is fundamentally more homely.

Its stance is less about offering luxury shoes and more about providing well-made footwear. Product explanations focus less on appearance or status and more on topics like the difference in comfort due to the last used, or the intended usage environment for the shoes available.

Staff make suggestions based on the customer’s intended use, guiding them towards selecting shoes that suit them.

Both brands employ staff well-versed in apparel, who will discuss your attire and preferences while assisting with shoe selection. This conversation becomes a truly enjoyable, blissful experience for those passionate about clothing and footwear.

Compared to Berluti, John Lobb sees greater business use, making them particularly adept at discussing formal attire like suits. Rooted in British tradition (though actually French-owned), their focus is more on dressing than pure fashion, meaning conversations about suits and shirts tend to lean more conservative than those at Berluti.

While proceeding with the Lawry fitting, arranging for items to be ordered, and making arrangements to have rubber applied to the leather soles, the conversation flowed freely—covering John Lobb shoes, stories of past shops, and the fashion worn that day.

Conversations with staff at the Marunouchi store also evoked the same stance I sensed 25 years ago at the Aoyama store: providing customers with shoes made from truly fine leather, meticulously crafted by skilled shoemakers, tailored to fit them perfectly, and intended to be cherished for years. It proved a most pleasant experience.

Purchase and Maintenance

The dark brown suede size I selected was unavailable at the Marunouchi store, so it had to be ordered. It arrived at the Marunouchi store within a few days, spanning the weekend, and I took it straight to the workshop to have rubber soles fitted.

I was informed it would be ready for collection in about a week, with home delivery also possible.

When collecting the Lawry shoes, I mentioned that I would be bringing in the Barros shoes for maintenance, and would return another day.

Trying on the Lawry shoes after they came back from the workshop was fine, and the rubber had been applied neatly.

I collected the Lawry shoes and requested maintenance for the Barros shoes I brought in that day, along with rubber soles. The staff member assessed the condition and confirmed that a full sole replacement wasn’t necessary.

They provided an estimate and approximate completion time for the maintenance and rubber sole application work. The price was very reasonable, so I agreed without hesitation.

At this point, the staff member remarked nostalgically that the Barros shoe trees were an older type.

The curve from toe to heel is beautifully formed, and this curve is designed to enhance comfort rather than merely for visual appeal.

The suede upper lacks the sheen of leather, making the form less apparent, yet it retains the classic Chelsea boot silhouette. It features a beautiful curved line from the instep to the toe, narrowing at the heel and arch before widening at the ball of the foot and tapering towards the toe.

The curve from the heel’s bulge to the ankle creates an exquisite fit when actually worn.

I did not take any photographs, but the shoe box has been changed to a reddish-purple colour, and the shape of the shoe tree has also been made more user-friendly.

When purchasing, I had rubber soles fitted to the shoes. This allows me to wear them without issue even on surfaces where leather soles would be slippery.

Wearing example.

This time, I’ve paired Lawry with chinos and slim-fit cotton trousers. As beige-toned trousers complement it better, I haven’t combined it with denim.

Rather than just looking at the shoes, you can really appreciate their refined form when you actually wear them.

Pairing them with trousers that are slimmer than chinos creates a well-balanced and elegant combination.

Lawry

• Last 7000
• Colour: Dark Brown Suede
• Leather: Suede
• Sole: Single Sole
• Size: 7 1/2 E Width

Combination

Five-Pocket Trousers: Visvim

Shoes: John Lobb Barros

Chino Trousers: Boncoura

Knitwear: Boncoura

In conclusion

This time, I purchased John Lobb shoes for the first time in 25 years. Times have changed, and alongside the orthodox, timeless British shoes, the range now includes trendier styles.

The brand seemed more high-end than before. However, upon actually visiting the shop, handling the products, trying them on, and making the purchase, I found the essence remained firmly intact: that traditional British shoemaker’s stance, like a bespoke shop, offering shoes crafted by skilled shoemakers tailored to the customer, just as I had experienced 25 years ago.

A defining characteristic of John Lobb shoes is that the impression they make when admired without being worn differs, in a positive sense, from the impression when actually worn. This stems from the truly excellent leather selected, the meticulous craftsmanship, and the universally superb design.

Being very orthodox British shoes, they are not flashy, yet they possess an intrinsic dignity that adds a sense of quality to the wearer’s ensemble.

The Lawry I purchased this time is also from John Lobb’s classic line, a very orthodox Chelsea boot.

I opted for suede, which is not the most conventional choice, but both the construction and style are quintessentially John Lobb. Even when worn casually, the quality and dignity are maintained. This is the result of a long history of consistently producing fine items without sparing effort.

Being rather pricey, they aren’t something one buys frequently. Yet, when worn, they exude a refined elegance. Their superb comfort and robust construction, promising years of loyal service, inevitably make one yearn for the next pair.

Being suede, they require less upkeep than leather shoes, though one misses the pleasure of polishing them to make them truly one’s own. Nevertheless, the quality of the leather and the craftsmanship ensure they are excellent shoes that will be enjoyed for many years to come.

Shop

This time, I purchased Lawry at the John Lobb Marunouchi store.

As I’ve mentioned several times in the article, it is one of the world’s finest shoes and a brand representing British footwear. With Hermès capital involved, the store exudes a high level of luxury, creating an atmosphere that makes it rather difficult to pop in casually.

However, upon entering the shop, viewing the shoes, and listening to the staff’s explanations, one encounters not merely the image of a luxury brand, but the robust, no-nonsense world of British footwear. These are shoes crafted by skilled shoemakers; they may lack flashy appearance, but they are designed to fit the wearer perfectly, offering exceptional comfort, durability, and longevity.

The staff, too, feel less like luxury brand personnel and more like traditional shoemakers. They pay close attention to foot shape and offer advice to help customers select shoes that truly suit them.

The true value of John Lobb shoes is one that customers come to appreciate after wearing them for a considerable period. This value lies in the shoes gradually moulding to the wearer’s feet over time, achieving a fit and comfort unmatched by other footwear.

John Lobb shoes are exceptionally well-made; if cherished and worn carefully, they can last a lifetime. I have owned three pairs of Derby shoes for 25 years.

They show no signs of deterioration; rather, years of wear have moulded them perfectly to my feet. While offering a distinct comfort from trainers, they remain remarkably easy to walk in for extended periods without fatigue, making them utterly indispensable.

John Lobb shoes are fundamentally classic, yet exude understated elegance when worn. The brand provides high-quality footwear tailored to the wearer and operates a system designed for long-term enjoyment.

It offers an experience closely aligned with British sartorial culture – akin to having shoes fitted by a British gentleman at a historic British shoemaker’s workshop for years of cherished use.

While the threshold may feel slightly high, the Marunouchi store, which operates with a deep understanding of John Lobb’s philosophy and history, is highly recommended for those seeking shoes that truly fit their feet, possess understated elegance, and can be worn for a lifetime.

JohnLobb Official Website

I present my John Lobb Barros, a pair I have cherished for over a quarter of a century, more than 25 years. This was my first pair of John Lobb shoes, and I hold them in very fond regard.

Their form differs from the refined, clean lines of modern John Lobb designs, featuring the slightly rounded U-tip of a traditional British Derby shoe. I originally purchased them to pair with a navy blazer and grey flannel trousers.

I bought them during the era when there was a flagship store in Minato Mirai, Yokohama, and John Lobb sales were operated by Candy Co., Ltd. Candy was a company that sold very interesting things; whilst operating John Lobb, they also sold shirts from the British brand Hilditch & Key. Later, they became famous for selling Belgian chocolate, Pierre Marcolini.

Back then, there were only two John Lobb flagship stores in the Kanto region: the Minato Mirai store and the Aoyama flagship store along Route 246 in Gaien. The Minato Mirai store where I bought my Barros closed down, leaving only the Aoyama flagship store operating as the sole flagship outlet for a while.

Subsequently, I purchased the Darby and Chambord models consecutively at the Aoyama flagship store. The manager there was a fascinating character. Despite the store’s reputation for selling the world’s finest gentlemen’s shoes and its high-end brand atmosphere, he had the personality of an old-school shoemaker’s father figure. He himself seemed like a leather enthusiast, genuinely loving John Lobb shoes and running the shop for that reason.

I always enjoyed chatting with that manager and would invariably pop into the shop whenever I visited Aoyama. Back then, Gaien had the flagship store of my favourite shop, and strolling around the Gaien area – Cassina > Berluti > John Lobb > then on to Omotesando – was a real pleasure.

My purchase of Berluti shoes came some time after acquiring John Lobb, but the manager at the Aoyama flagship store was a woman with an exceptional knowledge of men’s fashion. As my style at the time differed somewhat from the typical Berluti clientele (I favoured Carpe Diem), she often struck up conversations with me, and I rather enjoyed these fashion discussions.

Through that manager’s kindness, I was invited to events like new collection launch parties. I recall Kazuhiko Kato, a great admirer of Berluti, attending one such occasion. Though he was of a certain age, he was youthful, tall, and had an impeccable figure. I remember how incredibly stylish he looked, wearing Berluti shoes with such flair.

[ Berluti Alessandro’s Article ]

I have passed on my Berluti shoes to a junior colleague, but as it is such an excellent shop, I am writing an article about it.

Incidentally, in my mind, Candy, Cassina, and Sazaby League are three companies that introduced the world’s finest products to Japan faster than anyone else.

Candy handled John Lobb shoes and Hilditch & Key shirts. Cassina’s Mario Bellini Maralunga sofa and Frank Lloyd Wright coffee table, alongside Cassina’s own original bed, dressing table, and dining set – I actually purchased these pieces for my home and still cherish them today.

Though I passed on the Hilditch & Key shirts to a junior colleague fond of British fashion, the John Lobb shoes and Cassina furniture remain true masterpieces I’ve cherished for over a quarter-century.

The Maralunga has had its leather reupholstered once, yet remains in daily use in the living room. Its robustness is such that it shows no sign of wear or wobble; it truly is a sofa for life. I use an L-shaped arrangement comprising a single-seater sofa, an ottoman, and a wide two-seater sofa.

It is on this single-seater sofa and ottoman, relaxing, that I write this blog on my MacBook Pro. (I also purchased and love the Dyson crane-like lighting fixture I use when working on my Mac, which I bought through Cassina’s introduction).

I still have the Agnès b. striped shirt I bought when I was young (I did eventually get rid of it), as well as Ron Harman denim, T-shirts, and Frank and Irene shirts. When it comes to Sazaby League, it has become so commonplace, probably due to its operation of Starbucks Coffee, that it would be difficult to find someone who has never used it.

Introduction.

I purchased my John Lobb shoes 25 years ago and at one point rotated between three pairs. However, when I stopped wearing suits daily, opportunities to wear them diminished. Recently, due to a change in my mindset, I’ve gradually begun wearing them again.

At the time of purchase, I didn’t fully grasp the shop assistant’s claim that they were shoes for life. Yet, 25 years on, I truly understand what they meant by “a pair for life”.

This brand embodies a philosophy of what truly constitutes a fine product – encompassing not only robust construction but also timeless, enduring design.

The meticulous craftsmanship and decades of accumulated expertise mean that, with wear, the shoes gradually mould to the wearer, becoming an extension of the body. One can personally experience the legendary notion that once John Lobb shoes have been broken in, they become utterly indispensable.

At first glance, the design appears simply well-made, lacking ostentatious flair. Yet when worn, their intrinsic quality emerges naturally – true masterpieces backed by history.

The three pairs of Derby shoes I cherish are now discontinued, making new purchases impossible. It’s also regrettable that, with the changing times, John Lobb has discontinued the double-soled Derby itself.

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In the past, I would only wear John Lobb shoes with a suit or blazer style. However, as I’ve grown older and become less constrained by such particulars, I’ve started wearing them again.

As I shall detail in another article, I recently purchased a pair of John Lobb Lawry boots for the first time in 25 years. The customer service at the Marunouchi store where I bought them was precisely the kind of personal, old-school shoemaker’s workshop experience I remember.

The service and attention were truly excellent. I also had the shoes I bought 25 years ago serviced, and they even fitted rubber soles to the leather ones – something I would never have considered back then.

In my youth, I held rather fundamentalist views and would never have considered rubber soles. However, leather soles have a significant drawback: they become extremely slippery on surfaces like marble floors, causing me to nearly fall on numerous occasions. Addressing such shortcomings is part of the shoemaker ethos that continues to be upheld by John Lobb today.

Two John Lobb

There are two John Lobb entities frequently mentioned in discussions: John Lobb London and the Hermès-owned John Lobb Paris. However, the vast majority of John Lobb shoes encountered in Japan are produced by the Hermès-owned John Lobb Paris. My own John Lobb shoes are also Parisian products.

To put it simply, John Lobb London is a traditional bespoke (full custom) shoemaker, whilst John Lobb Paris operates more like a luxury shoe manufacturer, selling ready-made shoes and offering bespoke services akin to London upon request.

Purchasing John Lobb London shoes requires travelling to London to place an order, making it rather inaccessible for the general public. In the past, they would visit Japan annually in June, holding an ordering event at the Hotel Okura.

Some twenty years ago, I considered placing an order at this Hotel Okura event, but as opportunities to wear suits diminished, I ultimately did not proceed.

The dream associated with John Lobb London’s bespoke service lies in the preservation of one’s own last, much like the storied lasts of its renowned patrons (including the British Royal Family and Churchill). Such a dreamlike experience is exceedingly rare.

From what I recall, the minimum order at the Hotel Okura event was two pairs. You could choose from several Derby and Oxford styles, select the leather, and specify the shape of the toe, heel, and sole. I believe the price was around £4,000 per pair.

Derby and Oxford

When I first purchased John Lobb shoes, British footwear conjured images of wing-tip derbies, with full brogue detailing and eyelet work epitomising the British style.

The double soles were quintessentially British in construction, robust and sturdy – the sort of no-nonsense, rugged footwear suited to walking on country soil, embodying the country gentleman aesthetic. Such shoes were precisely to my taste. (This preference remains unchanged to this day.)

Regarding John Lobb’s Oxfords, iconic straight-tip styles like the City and Philip come to mind. For a time, John Lobb was practically synonymous with the Philip 2 due to its extensive media exposure, so even if you didn’t know the name, you’ve likely seen them.

My perception of Oxford shoes was that they were slightly more formal than Derbies, intended for ceremonial or formal occasions. If Derbies were the shoes worn in the English countryside, then Oxfords were the shoes worn in cities like London – that might make it easier to understand.

I used to frequently browse the John Lobb London website back then. The image that stuck in my mind was one of bespoke excellence, catering to many historical figures, representing the pinnacle of gentlemen’s footwear.

Viewing the actual photographs of the shoes they produced, however, revealed surprisingly simple, almost primitive designs – in a way, rather clumsy in their styling. Yet, it is precisely that clumsy Derby form that embodies the image of British shoes I adore.

The Barros I’m introducing this time isn’t a full brogue wing tip Derby, but it is a U-tip wing tip Derby sharing that same robust, no-nonsense image common to full brogues. The double sole is precisely why I chose Barros.

From my youth, I have favoured a slightly more relaxed style over sharply tailored suits, preferring blazers and such. Naturally, my taste in footwear leans towards derbies over Oxfords.

The practicality and robust simplicity of John Lobb’s derbies at the time, embodying the British country gentleman aesthetic, aligned perfectly with my own preferences. This motivated me to purchase three pairs of double-soled derbies within a short period.

This time I’m introducing the Barros, but I hope to feature the Darby and Chambord double-soled derbies in a separate article. For introducing these two pairs, I’m considering taking photographs wearing suits I hardly ever wear anymore.

Barros

My Barros was purchased in 2000, so the last used at that time was 2998. Whilst I do like shoes, I’m not a specs maniac, so this is based on general knowledge: 2998 is a last exclusive to Barros, manufactured at the John Lobb factory.

It’s a double-soled, five-eyelet, wing-tip Derby, resulting in a slightly more casual U-tip. A famous shoe with this form is the JM Weston Golf. The Golf has a rubber sole and appears slightly thicker from the side, whereas the Barros has a more streamlined form with reduced thickness.

Not just the Barros, but a characteristic of John Lobb shoes is the pronounced curvature from the sole to the upper along the sides. This construction is what defines the highly praised comfort of John Lobb shoes.

Examining it closely, the meticulous stitching, the beautiful curves of the toe and heel achieved through fine craftsmanship, and the lustre from the high-quality leather all stand out. However, viewed as a single pair of shoes, it is a moderate U-tip Derby, a shoe where robust, no-nonsense elements outweigh any flashy features.

Wearing example.

This time, I’ve paired Barros with chinos and slim-fit cotton trousers. As beige-toned trousers complement them better, I haven’t paired them with denim.

Barros

• Last 2998
• Colour: Tobacco
• Leather: Carf
• Sole: Double sole
• Size: 7 1/2 E width

Combination

Five-Pocket Trousers: Visvim

Shoes: John Lobb Barros

Chino Trousers: Boncoura

Knitwear: Boncoura

In conclusion

This winter, I began wearing my John Lobb Barros shoes again after a long interval and decided to write about them. Purchased back in 2000, these shoes are a quarter-century old. Yet, their condition remains impeccable, and their design shows no sign of datedness even now.

This enduring quality is precisely what one expects from John Lobb – a brand with a long history, stubbornly committed to crafting truly exceptional products.

Having stopped wearing suits regularly, my John Lobb shoes had been stored away in the wardrobe. Yet, when I took them out of their box after so long, they showed absolutely no signs of deterioration.

While I’ve never disliked caring for leather goods and had applied John Lobb’s genuine moisturising cream thoroughly before storing them, I believe the fundamental reason for their lack of deterioration even after prolonged disuse is the sheer quality of the leather and the superb craftsmanship.

This year, I gifted Berluti shoes to a junior colleague and a friend for their celebrations. I myself was considering purchasing leather shoes again after a long interval and had shortlisted John Lobb boots, a style I hadn’t previously owned.

Given my current style, soft suede boots suit me better than formal full-grain leather ones. I purchased the classic John Lobb Lawry boots in dark brown suede.

The service at the Marunouchi store where I bought the Lawry was superb; they even had a detailed record of the three pairs of derbies I purchased a quarter-century ago. Following that, I requested maintenance and had rubber soles fitted, considering modern practicality.

During my conversation with the Marunouchi staff, we also got quite animated discussing the former manager of the Aoyama flagship store.

As mentioned in the article, while John Lobb carries an image befitting a luxury brand, its dedication to the actual shoes and its customer service stance remain quintessentially traditional shoemaker. Naturally, they maintain a system for servicing purchased shoes to ensure they can be cherished for a lifetime.

Furthermore, considering the price of the shoes, the very reasonable cost of their maintenance services can also be seen as embodying John Lobb’s fundamental ethos.

In the past, I only wore my John Lobb shoes with slightly more formal styles like suits or blazers. However, my approach to fashion has shifted somewhat, and I now find myself wearing them more often with slightly more casual styles.

Having worn these shoes for many years, they fit my feet perfectly and are supremely comfortable. With their timeless, ageless design, they truly are the finest shoes one can wear for a lifetime. I look forward to enjoying them for many years to come.

Shop

The John Lobb shop that handled this matter is the Marunouchi branch.

The Barros purchase featured in this article was made at the Minato Mirai branch, which we previously operated but which has since closed.

I shall cover this in a separate article, but I purchased the Rawry Chelsea boots at the Marunouchi branch and requested maintenance for previously purchased shoes at that time.

The Barros shoes were returned to me quite promptly after maintenance, hence this article. I should add that the maintenance cost was also very reasonable.

As mentioned in the Berluti article, Berluti meticulously maintains records of purchases made 20 years ago. Similarly, John Lobb, despite handling purchases made 25 years ago, naturally keeps thorough records and manages customer information diligently.

Both Berluti and John Lobb are long-established houses dealing in footwear, an item used over an extremely long cycle. Naturally, they manage customer relationships over these extended periods with great care.

It sounds simple when put into words, but how many current luxury brands actually manage customer relationships to this standard? One might think it’s quite few.

While I’ve written about Berluti’s superb customer service, John Lobb’s customer care is equally outstanding. However, a key difference is that Berluti, having also entered the apparel market, possesses a more pronounced sense of true luxury. Their staff embody a heightened awareness of providing first-class service, consistently delivering an authentic, high-end experience.

John Lobb, too, is regarded as producing the world’s finest luxury footwear, often dubbed the “King of Shoes”. While its image might seem closer to Berluti’s, actually entering the shop, viewing the shoes, and trying them on reveals that interactions with staff feel less like luxury service and more like engaging with skilled shoemakers.

There is an absolute confidence and trust in their own products. Beyond that, they spare no effort in enhancing customer satisfaction by meticulously tailoring the experience to each customer’s preferences, ensuring the perfect fit for their feet, and addressing what is necessary for long-term enjoyment.

This feels like the most important aspect – a sincerity towards the customer – embodying that old-school shoemaker’s philosophy. Perhaps the reason John Lobb is so highly regarded is best understood as prioritising service tailored to customers who genuinely love and cherish their shoes.

I hadn’t worn John Lobb shoes for a while, but the three pairs I previously owned have all been maintained, with rubber soles fitted to the leather soles. I intend to wear them properly from now on, caring for them as I cherish them.

Regarding the shop, I plan to summarise my experience in an article about the Lawry I purchased.

JohnLobb Official Website