Combination
The appeal of the field jacket lies in its functional beauty, crafted for military use, and its stoic military uniform aesthetic, which strongly embodies masculine elements. Designed with rough movement in mind, it can be worn without worrying about creases.
Khaki pairs exceptionally well with denim, and beyond denim, it can be enjoyed with various inner layers and bottoms.
Not limited to the M65, field jackets manufactured as military uniforms prioritise ease of movement, resulting in an overall relaxed silhouette. The most significant difference from modern outerwear is the considerably wide armhole.
This generous armhole can result in a slightly clumsy silhouette, but it was designed with layering clothing in mind to suit the temperature conditions of the battlefield. Consequently, the ample armhole and body width prove invaluable when wearing multiple layers underneath during the depths of winter.
While vintage US military issue and replicas retain this relaxed silhouette, many contemporary outerwear pieces inspired by the M65 feature narrower armholes for a more streamlined look. Numerous releases now offer styles that retain the field jacket’s stoic character and functional beauty while allowing for a stylish wear.
Colours extend beyond khaki to include black, navy, and camouflage patterns, while materials vary beyond cotton-polyester blends to include linen and high-count cotton. For those who find the original US military issue’s rather plain style unappealing, selecting outerwear from various brands inspired by the motif allows one to enjoy wearing the field jacket.
We’ve compiled some styling examples: the classic pairing with denim, which is easy to match and works well, and a less common pairing with slightly more fashion-forward trousers from a bygone era. We hope you find them useful.
The M65 field jacket, broadly speaking, is a military field jacket. Within the US military context, it represents an evolution from the M41, M43, M51, and M65. However, owing to the M65’s highly refined design and form, it was issued by the US military for over 40 years.
Its value as a fashion item was subsequently rediscovered in the vintage clothing market. Various brands have used it as a motif, further enhancing its value and popularity. Consequently, when one speaks of a field jacket, the M65 is the standard that comes to mind.
The M65 jacket was issued by the US military for over 40 years, meaning a large number of vintage examples are available. It’s a common sight on the high street, yet remains an excellent outerwear piece: simply throwing it on creates a rugged or stoic look. It can be worn stylishly from late autumn through to early spring.
Wearing example.
(1) When styling the M65, the most common pairing is with denim.
[ Lee101Z 50s Black Tag’s article ]
The denim is Lee 101Z (50s Black Tag), the inner layer is a Boncourra fisherman’s sweater (Shetland wool), and on my feet I’m wearing White’s semi-dress boots.
The fisherman’s sweater is quite thick, with substantial sleeves and a wide body giving considerable volume, but the M65’s wide armholes allow it to be worn without issue. There’s a slight resistance when moving around, but I wear it regardless.
Given the considerable thickness of the inner layer, there’s a risk of looking bulky, but the M65 itself has a rather loose (slightly clumsy silhouette), so it doesn’t bother me. Interestingly, the M65’s loose, wide silhouette makes the slightly fuller silhouette of the Lee 101Z appear slimmer when paired with other outerwear.
For reference, it also pairs well with the current Levi’s Vintage Clothing (LVC) 1947 One Wash. The deep indigo, close to rigid, complements the M65 khaki nicely, creating a well-balanced combination.
I’m pairing it with the Lee101Z (50’s Black Tag) and Boncoura fisherman’s sweater. If it’s not too cold, wearing it open at the front better captures the vibe of the fisherman’s sweater and M65.
If it’s cold, fastening the front won’t ruin the style. The M65 field jacket’s moderate looseness means the bulkiness from the thick fisherman’s sweater worn underneath isn’t noticeable.
I’m wearing a thick fisherman’s jumper underneath, so it looks a bit puffy, but the silhouette from behind is lovely.
It adds a bit of bulk, but it’s not an unpleasant kind of bulk.
I’ll pair it with Levi’s vintage reissue line LVC’s 1947 one-wash. It also pairs well with rigid denim.
(2) I’ll try swapping the bottoms for something other than denim and changing the inner knit to a lighter knit.
The combination with the fisherman’s sweater creates a voluminous top, so I’ll change the style by wearing a thin knit as an inner layer and pairing it with a slightly more modern M65 field jacket on the bottom.
The knit is a rather tight-fitting V-neck by NoriKoike, purchased around the late 2000s. For the bottom, I’m wearing light taupe cotton trousers by Dolce & Gabbana from the early 2000s. I chose this style because I felt the tight V-neck and untapered trousers resemble a trend that’s recently been making a comeback.
I tend to hold onto things for a long time, so I still treasure items bought quite a while ago. I’ve usually passed most of them on to friends or juniors, but pieces purchased at Barneys in the 2000s were of such good quality and design that I occasionally take them out to wear. This NoriKoike and Dolce & Gabbana are precisely items bought at Barneys back then.
The style of those strongly fashion-forward cotton trousers I bought 25 years ago bears a resemblance to the bootcut-like style that top maisons began incorporating around last year.
In reality, they aren’t truly bootcut but rather untapered, resulting in a design with a wider hem width. It’s intriguing that the straight-leg denim released by top maisons this season features a silhouette quite close to that of the era.
Those with an interest in fashion in the early 2000s will likely find this a nostalgic style of trousers. It’s interesting to see such styles re-emerging as a trend.
The thin inner layer and clean-cut top, paired with bottoms that offer a more flattering silhouette than denim, allow you to wear the M65 in a modern way.
Wearing a light taupe V-neck as an inner layer to reveal the neckline softens the military elements of the M65 and creates a more modern impression.
The fisherman sweater’s volume pairs well with its chunky texture, creating an atmosphere reminiscent of 1970s student fashion updated for the modern era. It possesses quite a wild vibe, making it a versatile combination that looks smart even on middle-aged men.
Detail
- M65 Field Jacket
- 2nd Model (1966-1972)
- Manufactured 1969
- Fabric: Cotton-polyester blend
- Aluminium zip
- Epaulettes present
- Cuff gussets present
- Size: Small-Short
Combination
- Denim: Lee 101Z (50s Black Tag)
- Cotton trousers: Dolce and Gabbana
- Cashmere fisherman sweater: Boncoura
- V-neck sweater: Nori Koike
- Boots: White’s Semi-Dress
In conclusion
My M65 field jacket is my staple outerwear piece from late autumn through early spring, and it’s one of my absolute favourite jackets. I’d have liked to introduce it sooner, but changes in my living situation meant I stopped updating articles, so this piece is a bit late.
Looking broadly at the M65 field jacket – including not just the authentic version but also motif items – it’s a design so widespread that you see many people wearing it around town. In some cases, you might even wonder if they’re unaware they’re wearing an M65 motif.
The original M65, issued by the US military, was in service for over 40 years, meaning there are many examples available. Vintage prices haven’t skyrocketed, making it easily accessible. If you’re interested, I’d encourage you to get one and see how you can style it.
Personally, as a vintage enthusiast, I appreciate the clumsy style that stands in stark contrast to the body-hugging, sleek designs of contemporary fashion items.
However, for those who want to wear a field jacket but are put off by the original M65’s clumsiness, you can still enjoy it by acquiring versions from various brands that incorporate the motif and have been refined for a modern look.
I personally enjoy the M65 by leveraging its loose silhouette. One of the pleasures of the M65 field jacket is its ability to layer generously with voluminous inner pieces, not just the fisherman’s sweater featured here, but also items like Boncoura’s zip hoodie.
I own three M65 field jackets myself. Beyond the 2nd model featured here, the New Air Vintage remake and the 3rd model are also intriguing pieces, which I hope to cover in future articles.
Shop
The M65 Field Jacket 2nd Model featured here was purchased from Berberjin in Harajuku, Tokyo.
They are arguably Japan’s most renowned vintage denim specialist, a long-established vintage shop frequently featured in various media. I have purchased denim such as 501XX and Lee 101Z, along with 50s items, from their sister store, Fake a.
The M65 Field Jacket 2nd Model featured here was purchased via their online shop, and I received exceptionally courteous service.
I’d love to visit Berberjin’s physical shop, but haven’t managed to find the time yet.
As befits such an established establishment, they stock an extensive range of American vintage items, including ultra-rare treasures like vintage denim, alongside pieces at more accessible price points.
As a shop that leads the industry in pricing, they offer fair value and their merchandise is genuinely authentic.
Since I purchased via their web shop, I can’t provide a detailed introduction to Berberjin itself. However, I covered their sister shop, Fake a, in my article on the 501XX, so please refer to that.
[ Levi’s 501XX 1954model’s article ]
“Berberjin” Global shipping is not supported. Come to the shop when you come to Japan.