Styling
Because this is a cashmere jacket from one of Naples’ tailoring masters, the orthodox configuration is the tailored one — the jacket worn with shirt, tie, and trousers. But the jacket also carries enough everyday range that the silhouette holds up beautifully with denim as well.
Given how well it pairs with the Levi’s 501XX, I drop the shirt-and-tie register entirely here and put a more relaxed knit underneath. The shoes are Marini derbies.
I’ve then run the same configuration with Visvim’s tighter denim and a pair of sneakers.
For the orthodox version, I’ve put on a FRAY shirt and a Marinella tie with Brioni trousers below. As with the denim, I also try a knit underneath in place of the shirt for a more relaxed register.
With the jacket’s clean line, a trouser without much volume balances the composition best. The thing to look for is moderate taper and length — not too tapered, not too short — and the line comes together properly.
1. With the 501XX
With the second button done. The jacket and the 501XX read together cleanly, and the whole silhouette settles into place.
2. With the 501XX (Front Open)
Leaving the second button undone, with the front open, carries a more relaxed register. Because the lapel line and the shoulder-and-chest construction are so well built, the jacket’s silhouette doesn’t break even with the front fully open.
3. With the 501XX (Back View)
From behind, the line follows the body but never insists on it. The slightly longer length and the deep side vents give the silhouette its cleanness from this angle. This is the pairing that best lets each garment do what it does best.
4. With Visvim Denim
Here with the Visvim slim-fit, narrower than the 501XX. The styling holds together, but the 501XX’s measured width still meets the jacket more naturally.
5. With Visvim Denim and Visvim Sneakers
I’m wearing the Converse-style Visvim sneaker here. It isn’t a bad pairing, but I think a touch more volume in the bottom would settle the line. When the chance comes, I’d like to try a wider 1960s 502 in this configuration.
6. With Visvim Denim and Visvim Sneakers (Front Buttoned)
With the front buttoned, the upper half visually carries more volume — and again, a slightly fuller bottom would settle things better. (The fact that this is the exact inverse of how the Dior outer behaves is, frankly, an entertaining piece of evidence.)