Boncoura Fisherman Sweater
I love old-fashioned, low-gauge, thick, rough knits, and I love fisherman jumpers and command jumpers. This time I would like to introduce a fisherman’s jumper made by Boncoura, of which I myself am a big fan.
Boncoura uses vintage clothing and military motifs as a motif, and with their unique interpretation and attention to detail, they make items with attention to detail, from the selection of fabrics and yarns to the smallest parts. The 66 series of denim, which was introduced in the article, is so thorough and particular that it is no more than this, and it has become excellent denim that can correspond also to modern fashion on the basis of overcoming the weak point of the original model with deep respect to Levi’s which was a motif, and the original model.
The fisherman’s jumpers made by Boncoura are naturally also made with considerable care. The knitting with a close grain, which is a feature of the fisherman’s sweater, makes it a considerably warm jumper even in midwinter because it has a considerable mass and is made of Shetland wool close to the original wool.
However, the wool of Shetland wool close to the raw wool is hard (often used in tweeds for jackets and coats) and when worn as a knit, the wool feels prickly if the wearer has sensitive skin. The wool contains oil, so it feels a little greasy to the touch. Because of its hard hair, it also has a slightly dry feel compared to merino or cashmere.
Boncoura offers a wide range of Fisherman’s Sweaters in merino wool and cashmere, so that even those who don’t like Shetland wool can enjoy them, Cashmere is also available.
Characteristics of each material
- Shetland wool This is the original fisherman’s jumper, so it has a pasty feel and a hard, prickly feel, but the texture is classic and the style in which it is worn is very wild and cool.
- Merino Wool This is an excellent way to ease the quirks of Shetland and enjoy a fisherman’s sweater with the feel of other knits. The texture of the merino makes it look more elegant than Shetland wool.
- Cashmere The comfort is superb and the cashmere has the best texture. The cashmere is luxuriously used from mass and isextremely warm and comfortable.
Boncoura’s fisherman jumpers are available in the three types described above.
I love two of them: the brown Shetland wool type, known as Café Au Lait, and the white Fisherman’s Sweater with luxurious cashmere, which is introduced here.
The actual knitting is thicker, more massive and very tightly knitted than it looks in the pictures, and the amount of cashmere used is about the same as three regular middle-gauge cashmere knits, making it a very luxurious fisherman’s jumper.
The silhouette of a fisherman’s sweater
Boncoura’s great sense of how to digest original items into contemporary fashion is outstanding in their clothes making. One of the characteristics of Boncoura’s fisherman jumpers is the raglan sleeves.
The conventional fisherman’s jumper is made thicker and warmer by knitting the fabric with a tight knit, but due to the structure of the knitting, it is difficult to create a curved line, and it is sometimes difficult to create a sleek silhouette when wearing it.
This feature (which is both the charm and the character of a rough-wearing fisherman’s jumper). The sleeves are made with raglan sleeves and the line around the chest from the shoulder is made into a clear silhouette so that the sweater can be worn in a modern way. This is also Boncoura’s unique attention to detail, and this ingenuity is also common to the silhouette of the denim that is developed to crease beautifully.
Introduction.
I’ve always adored classic, timeless pieces, and the fisherman’s sweater my parents wore during my childhood is one of my absolute favourite items. The fisherman’s sweater has its roots in the knitwear worn by British fishermen as cold-weather gear, featuring a tightly knitted, thick construction.
While the fisherman’s sweater is a motif I greatly admire, one drawback is its overall volume. From a modern fashion perspective, this bulk can create an image of looking rather puffy. Furthermore, the voluminous styling limits the outerwear that can be layered over it, somewhat restricting the occasions when it can be worn.
As I’ve grown older, my approach to dressing has changed considerably. Whereas before, there was an unwritten rule that outerwear was essential in the depths of winter, my perspective has shifted to thinking that even in midwinter, if it isn’t cold, outerwear isn’t strictly necessary.
This change in how I approach dressing has led me to embrace the fisherman’s sweater, which I previously avoided due to its limited wearability. It is the fisherman’s sweater from Boncoura, featured here, that has given me this new perspective. Even during the harshest winter days, daytime temperatures in the metropolitan area are warm enough to go without outerwear, making it invaluable for weekend strolls.
Incidentally, the reduced opportunity to wear down jackets also stems from this shift in clothing philosophy. In metropolitan winters, wearing a down jacket can become rather warm and feel somewhat over-specification. (I’m actually considering wearing down jackets again recently.)
Characteristics of Boncoura’s Clothing Production
As mentioned in other articles, I adore the clothing developed by Boncoura and have several beloved items. The excellence of Boncoura’s garments stems from a profound respect for vintage pieces, resulting in meticulous attention to detail throughout their construction.
Naturally, Boncoura’s superb craftsmanship is matched by an exceptional approach to ageing. With long-term wear, their pieces develop a natural, well-preserved vintage-like patina.
Each Boncoura item features a generous sizing philosophy, offering a range that allows anyone to create a wonderful style that showcases Boncoura’s dedication. This broadens the scope for styling possibilities.
Boncoura size range
My tolerance towards sizing is evident in my collection of 66 denim. I favour Boncoura’s 66 denim range, owning five pairs: 30-inch and 32-inch indigo, a 32-inch cut-off summer denim, a 32-inch pre-dyed black denim, and a 30-inch white denim.
Though the colours differ, the reason I end up buying five pairs from one series lies in their sizing. I deliberately purchase two pairs in 30-inch and three in 32-inch – choosing the larger 32-inch size rather than a perfect fit has its rationale.
Boncoura’s sizing philosophy means the “just size” fits the body much like traditional denim, while the larger size is designed not to appear as oversized as conventional denim would.
As mentioned in Article 66, Boncoura denim features meticulously calculated crease placement. These creases form beautifully, resulting in exceptionally stylish fading as the jeans are worn in. This synergy means that well-defined creases create a sleek, flattering silhouette. To fully appreciate this attractive fading, we recommend selecting a true-to-size pair and wearing them to establish crisp creases.
Opting for one size up will still create creases, though not as pronounced as with a true-to-size fit. These creases still form beautifully, meaning even a larger size can make your legs appear slimmer. Personally, I own a 30-inch pair of indigo-dyed 66s to enjoy the fading process, and a 32-inch pair for more everyday wear, where I prefer a more moderate fade.
For cut-off denim worn in summer, I choose 32 inches as a slightly looser fit is more comfortable. With black denim, I prefer 32 inches to achieve an overall even fade rather than focusing on whiskers or honeycombing. For white denim, where fading isn’t a concern, I select the exact size 30 inches because a clean crease pattern creates a more flattering silhouette.
One of Boncoura’s hallmarks is how altering the size of the same item allows you to enjoy different silhouettes and styling. If you wish to savour the slightly distinctive colour tones and styling achieved through careful ageing, choose your exact size. For a more relaxed look, simply go up one size.
The size range is also well-considered to accommodate various body types. This means that even as you age and your figure changes, you can select a size that fits your body, allowing you to enjoy the relaxed yet refined style Boncoura proposes. Even if, like me, you deliberately choose a size up, the styling remains intact, enabling you to enjoy a relaxed look – a unique commitment characteristic of Boncoura.
The fisherman sweater featured here also employs a sizing approach similar to denim. The silhouette varies depending on the size chosen, allowing you to select based on your preferred shape.
Given the weight and volume inherent to fisherman sweaters, they are constructed quite generously, with particularly ample width and armholes. For the Shetland version, I selected my usual size, 38, whilst for the cashmere, I opted for a slightly tighter fit with size 36.
One reason I didn’t take many photos of the Shetland fisherman’s sweater this time is that it still hasn’t been worn in enough and retains some stiffness. Although it’s been over five years since I bought it, I haven’t worn it that much. This year, I’ve been wearing it more frequently, and it’s currently in the process of being worn in and aged, which is why I held off on introducing it.
I plan to write an article once I’ve worn it in a bit more and it’s broken in properly.
Generally, the finest fisherman’s sweater is the cashmere variety, offering superb comfort including texture, though it commands a high price. However, I believe the Shetland fisherman’s sweater – primitive, closer to the original style dating back centuries, with a stiffness and feel against the skin that is by no means pleasant – can become the ultimate piece. This is achieved through the time-consuming process of wearing it in, allowing it to mould to the wearer.
This is only possible because it’s a fisherman’s sweater, built robustly to withstand years of use. It embodies the same rugged, no-nonsense philosophy of British craftsmanship found in shoes like John Lobb, where items are made to be cherished.
This experience truly brings home that the value of clothing cannot be judged by price alone. The fact that Boncoura routinely produces and sells such items is another reason I cherish the brand.
Styling the Fisherman’s Sweater
This year, I’m aiming to master wearing items that skilfully incorporate beige and brown, alongside my usual denim-centric approach. The cashmere fisherman’s sweater featured here, whilst white, leans closer to beige than what you’d call off-white. Its relaxed, perfectly balanced colour makes it incredibly versatile and a real workhorse in my wardrobe.
It’s difficult to convey in photos, but Boncoura’s fisherman sweater features a dense knit and is quite thick for a knitwear piece. This means I can comfortably wear just my underwear and the fisherman sweater when temperatures are around 10°C. In such conditions, I enjoy pairing it with beige trousers or Boncoura’s khaki chino trousers.
Once I start wearing beige trousers or chinos, my John Lobb shoes, which I wouldn’t pair with denim, come into their own. I own three pairs of John Lobb leather derbies and one pair of suede boots. One derby is the tobacco-coloured Barros, and the suede boot is the dark brown Rawry. The other two pairs of derbies are black, so I wear them with suits or slightly more formal creased trousers.
This time, I’ve paired the bottoms with John Lobb’s Barros and Rawry. Balance-wise, the Barros is just right, but the Rawry’s smart shape, combined with the suede toning down the shoe’s presence, also has an undeniable charm.
The key to styling a fisherman’s sweater lies in wearing it comfortably at temperatures where it suffices on its own. In colder conditions requiring an outer layer, you must consider the sweater’s thickness and bulk, which makes styling slightly more challenging.
Personally, when it’s too cold for just the fisherman’s sweater and I need to layer another outer garment, I often opt for an M65. This is largely because the M65’s armholes are wide enough that the fisherman’s sweater’s thick sleeves don’t restrict movement. I’d like to share some styles pairing the M65 with it when the opportunity arises.
Below are a few photos showing how it can be worn. I’m afraid I’m no model, so they may not be particularly helpful, but I trust you’ll get a sense of the style.
Wearing example.
Details.
- Cashmere Fisherman Sweater: 100% Cashmere
- Shetland Fisherman Sweater: 100% Shetland Wool
- Single Raglan Sleeve
Both sweaters are luxuriously knitted with a dense stitch using generous amounts of wool.
Combinations.
- Cashmere fisherman sweater : Boncoura
- Shetland fisherman sweater : Boncoura
- Chino trousers : Boncoura
- 5-pocket cotton trousers : Visvim
- Hat (grey) : LEUCHTFEUE
- Sunglasses black : 999.9
- Sunglasses (Brown): Ray-Ban Wayfarer 90’s (BAUSCH+LAMB)
- Belt: Hender Scheme
- Shoes (Dark Brown Chelsea Suede Boots): John Lobb Rawry
- Shoes (Brown U-Tip): John Lobb Barros
Conclusion.
Though a much-loved item, I rarely found occasion to wear my fisherman’s sweater. However, a shift in my own approach to clothing has led to increased opportunities to wear it. While there are various reasons for this, I believe the most significant factor is a certain pragmatism: simply enjoying the garment at the temperature it suits best. (One might also call it choosing clothing appropriate to the temperature.)
Personally, I also seek a certain versatility in how I dress. This versatility means choosing garments suitable for a midwinter morning, daytime, or late night. However, attempting to select clothing that copes with environments where the temperature can vary by 5 degrees, or sometimes over 10 degrees, inevitably leads to dressing for the lowest temperature – the early morning chill.
Choosing clothes based on the lowest temperature means warm outerwear becomes fundamental. This approach to dressing is a staple of the autumn-winter season and is certainly not wrong.
However, this approach leaves little room for voluminous pieces like fisherman sweaters, which aren’t typically designed with outerwear in mind.
I purchased Boncoura’s fisherman sweater for its design and texture, but because my winter wardrobe philosophy centred on the versatility mentioned above, I didn’t wear it much after buying it.
This year, as a reaction to previously neglecting clothing due to environmental changes, I’ve developed a mindset to enjoy dressing a little more. Having taken some time away has shifted my perspective on clothing.
I now enjoy clothes with a different awareness – considering where and with whom I’ll meet when choosing outfits, and not solely basing selections on minimum or maximum temperatures, provided the clothing suits the environment.
This shift in mindset has meant my fisherman’s sweater, which had seen little wear, is now getting plenty of use.
At the core of Boncoura’s approach to clothing is a strong emphasis not just on the quality when new, but on nurturing the garment over time after purchase. This is evident not only in their denim but also in the fisherman’s sweater featured here. Personally, I take good care of items I’ve bought over the years, and I still regularly wear quite a few pieces purchased over 20 years ago.
The items Boncoura produces are splendid to wear now, but I also believe they will develop incredibly attractive ageing after about twenty years.
I hadn’t worn my fisherman’s sweater much for about five years after buying it, but due to a shift in my mindset, I’ve suddenly started wearing it more often. It’s inherently very robust and has been cherished by people for centuries (historically speaking, it has a longer history than denim). I expect there will be cycles where I wear it frequently and others where I take a break, but I believe it will provide enjoyment over an exceptionally long period.
Shop
The Boncoura Fisherman Sweater introduced this time are purchased at Post78.
Post78 is a shop that handles many high-quality, long-lasting items that the owner, who loves clothes, is particular about, and I often shop here. I also enjoy discussing fashion with the owner, who loves clothes, when I shop there.
“Post78” Global shipping is not supported. Come to the shop when you come to Japan.
