Dior Over Shirt (Black Denim)
A vintage-washed denim shirt crafted from a substantial 13.5-ounce fabric. Featuring Dior’s signature clean, straight-cut lines, it offers an impeccably flattering silhouette when worn.
Introduction.
Twenty years ago, I purchased and cherished shirts and knitwear from the Edie Slimane era of Dior Homme at Barneys New York. However, as I grew older, I wore them less frequently and eventually passed them on to a younger colleague. After that, I had no further connection with Dior items until recently, when I purchased a piece for the first time in two decades and have been wearing it often.
This time I’m introducing a denim shirt, though I’ve also bought a pea coat and slim jeans, which I’ll cover in a separate article. I’d wondered why Dior resonated so well with my current style, and actually wearing it has impressed me: the superb craftsmanship is a given, but it’s because Dior is a top maison that has firmly established its own unique style.
Speaking of Dior, its devoted wearer was Karl Lagerfeld, the Emperor of Fashion. A key insight gained was understanding why Lagerfeld – approaching his sixties and a fashion industry heavyweight – favoured Dior under the then-unknown Edie Slimane. Wearing it myself now, nearing sixty, has brought clarity to that choice. (This remains purely my personal view and speculation.)
Dior Homme
From the mid-1990s to the early 2000s, the reconstruction of iconic brands from the past became a major trend. Starting with Tom Ford at Gucci and Marc Jacobs at Louis Vuitton, new brands like Dolce & Gabbana and Jil Sander, rooted in tailoring yet introducing fresh values to fashion, began gaining recognition. Men’s fashion shifted from its previous emphasis on formality and tradition, incorporating playful and showy elements, transforming into a societal trend.
Amidst this, Dior, which had not previously developed a menswear line, brought in Hedi Slimane to launch one. At the time, John Galliano was creating a highly structured and flamboyant world for the womenswear, so the fashion industry watched closely to see what Dior’s menswear line would become.
A new line, Dior Homme, was created and collections were presented. Hedi Slimane’s minimalist worldview, stripped of all excess, was shocking. The core palette was black, grey, and navy, with styles defined by extremely slim, linear lines devoid of excess. The silhouette could be described simply as constructing elongated rectangular lines. This approach stood in stark contrast to other brands, which utilised new materials and tailoring techniques to construct three-dimensional body lines (such as inverted triangular silhouettes with defined waists).
Edie Slimane’s Dior sent shockwaves through the fashion industry. One of its defining moments was when Karl Lagerfeld, designer for Chanel and Fendi and often dubbed the Emperor of Fashion, began appearing in public constantly wearing Dior Homme suits as if they were his uniform.
The fact that the fashion emperor undertook a weight loss of 40kg to wear Dior Homme’s tailored suits was a shocking event, demonstrating the immense impact of the brand that even the fashion emperor was willing to undergo physical transformation to wear.
The Dior Homme items I purchased at the time were recommended and bought at Barneys, which I frequented often. However, as they were mostly shirts and knitwear, and the outerwear or denim that would later become iconic pieces felt too slim for my sensibilities at the time, I did not buy them.
My impression of Dior Homme at the time was that its tight, linear lines were avant-garde, creating minimalist garments with a very sharp, fashion-conscious edge. Based on my sensibilities then, I found them stylish but somewhat tedious to wear, and they weren’t the kind of clothes I would consider wearing regularly.
As my impression of Dior’s clothes remained unchanged, I never contemplated wearing Dior garments myself.
Wearing Dior beyond the age of sixty?
Amidst changes in my living situation, I hadn’t bought any clothes for quite some time. When I finally decided to buy something after a long while, I discussed fashion with a junior colleague. It was then that she remarked,
‘Wouldn’t it be splendid to wear Dior clothes effortlessly at sixty?’
The conversation then turned to anecdotes about Karl Lagerfeld.
Given my current preferences, I had no interest whatsoever in high-end brands like Dior (I’m not particularly fond of that term; “top maison” feels more fitting if one wishes to express respect), so I hadn’t checked them out. However, after browsing their website, I’ve become curious about their current direction.
It’s clear they’re maintaining the early Dior Homme aesthetic while offering timeless pieces of high quality. Among these, the denim shirt I’m introducing today particularly caught my eye.
I’ll cover this in a separate article, but alongside the denim shirt, I’ve also purchased a pea coat and a pair of slim-fit black jeans.
Dior overshirt
The image of Dior Homme mentioned at the outset remains firmly intact. While incorporating some current trends, the style hasn’t changed much from the past, retaining its linear and minimalist aesthetic. As a vintage-processed black denim shirt, it pairs exceptionally well with chinos, work trousers, and even classic denim like 501s.
Nowadays, vintage effects can be achieved using lasers, and the denim shirt featured here has undergone such laser-applied vintage treatment. The sizing is slightly oversized to incorporate current trends. For a deliberately loose, trend-conscious look, choose your usual size. If you prefer a slightly tighter fit, opting for one size down will provide a more tailored feel.
I usually wear a size 46 as standard, but for this Dior overshirt I’ve chosen a size 44.
Dior suggests wearing it as a set with matching double-knee denim work trousers, but I prefer pairing it with khaki or beige cotton trousers without creases rather than as a set.
For this shoot, I’ve worn it with faded brown Dickies work trousers that have been repaired.
I’ve always adored denim shirts and rotate five of them. As they’re all indigo, this black denim shirt I’ve acquired will prove invaluable.
In the depths of winter, I layer a knit underneath; if it’s still cold, I add a down vest. It’s a brilliant piece that can be worn all year round except the height of summer. I’d love to photograph a winter style again when the opportunity arises.
Though shaped like a denim shirt, its heavier weight makes it closer to a denim jacket than a shirt, leading to more frequent use as outerwear. At first glance, it appears to be a standard thick denim shirt, yet its construction showcases the quality expected of a top maison like Dior. The three-dimensional finish creates a pleasingly different impression when worn compared to how it looks on the hanger in-store.
This superb denim shirt looks stylish whether buttoned up or worn casually unbuttoned.
Wearing example.
Details.
- 100% cotton
- Heavyweight denim – 13.5 oz
- Laser fade finish
- Vintage finish
Combinations.
- Denim shirt: Dior
- T-shirt, green: Dolce & Gabbana
- T-shirt, orange: Burberry Prorsum
- Painter’s trousers: Dickies (New Air Vintage)
- Denim: Levi’s Vintage Collection 1947 One Wash
- Hat: LEUCHTFEUE
- Watch: IWC Mark11 RAF
- Sunglasses: Oakley
- Belt: The Real McCoy’s
- Shoes: Visvim
Conclusion.
This Dior denim shirt was purchased after hearing about how one might elegantly wear Dior upon reaching one’s sixtieth birthday. Rather than the fashion-forward styling one might associate with Dior’s image, I wear it with the same casual ease as my everyday vintage denim shirts. Thanks to Dior’s superb design and style, pairing it with heavily patched work trousers still yields a remarkably fashionable and interesting look.
As for why Karl Lagerfeld favoured Hedi Slimane’s Dior, the men’s line stemming from Dior Homme shares a common thread of street fashion elements. However, Slimane’s interpretation of streetwear leans less towards a macho aesthetic and more towards an introspective quality, evoking a certain delicacy and fragility.
This slenderness and fragility are not meant negatively; adolescent or youthful males invariably possess this quality. This image of slenderness links to the slim, elongated rectangular silhouette. While this image and style represent adolescent boys and youth, one could consider that Karl Lagerfeld sought this youthfulness (as inspiration). Reading deeper, I suspect he perceived eternal youth in Dior’s garments.
This is purely my personal view, but as someone approaching sixty who has worn Dior, I sensed a somewhat boyish, introspective, adolescent quality. This leads me to feel that perhaps, by wearing Dior, Karl Lagerfeld attained a kind of eternal youth in a spiritual sense.
Shop
The denim shirt featured here was purchased at House of Dior Ginza, located within Ginza SIX. On this occasion, I was shown the item beforehand and returned later to make the purchase. Having booked an appointment with the intention to buy, I was shown into an available private fitting room, allowing for a leisurely shopping experience.
When I conveyed my interest in certain items to the sales assistant, they brought not only the discussed pieces but also other versatile options, allowing me to visualise how they might be worn while selecting.
The assistant was exceptionally kind and, having extensive experience in fashion, provided spot-on styling advice. We also enjoyed pleasant, fashion-related conversation, making it a thoroughly satisfying shopping experience.
The store is spacious, offering both men’s and women’s collections, with a comprehensive range of bags and accessories. Why not pop in with your wife on a day off?
