John Lobb Lawry
As mentioned in my previous article on Barros, I recently purchased a pair of John Lobb shoes for the first time in 25 years. The shoes I bought are the Lawry, a boot that epitomises John Lobb. The Lawry is a Chelsea boot featuring side gore panels. Whilst the classic choice is black calf leather, I opted for dark brown suede.
I chose the dark brown suede for its compatibility with denim and the beige-toned trousers I’ve been favouring lately.
This marked my first purchase at a John Lobb flagship store in 25 years. While the quality of the product is, of course, excellent, the feeling of acquiring a pair of shoes truly tailored to me by a skilled craftsman practising his art within the John Lobb store – a sensation I experienced 25 years ago – remains unchanged even after this long interval. It evokes nostalgia and, simultaneously, leaves me impressed by their enduring philosophy.
This time, I present the Lawry, John Lobb’s signature boot.
Barros’ article also mentions the Marunouchi branch purchased on this occasion.
Introduction.
Although I owned several pairs of boots, they were all work-style boots with rounded toes. I didn’t own any Chelsea boots or side-zip boots, which follow the lineage of leather shoes. The reason was that, despite being boots, they had a formal shape suitable for suits and the like, so I didn’t feel they were necessary for my casual style.
My approach to fashion has shifted somewhat, leading me to choose the John Lobb Chelsea boot, the Lawry, which I’m introducing here. Crafted on John Lobb’s now-standard 7000 last, these boots feature a cleaner, more refined silhouette from instep to toe compared to my older John Lobb shoes.
With casual wear in mind, I opted for dark brown suede rather than the classic black calf leather.
While the suede lends a casual feel, the construction and form are quintessentially John Lobb, resulting in a refined silhouette that pairs well with suits. Compared to the Barros U-tip introduced in my previous article, the curve from the instep to the toe is slightly sharper and more refined. This creates an elegant silhouette that avoids excessive casualness, despite the suede.
Black calf leather is also extremely refined, but personally, I find it can appear a little stiff when paired with denim or chinos, hence my choice of dark brown suede. (The boot silhouette does look more polished in glossy black calf leather.)
Lawry
Lawry had considered purchasing a pair ten years ago, specifically wanting black suede, but it wasn’t part of the standard range. It would have required ordering via their “By Request” made-to-order service.
John Lobb’s “By Request” service incurs a surcharge of around 30%. They do run a “By Request Fair” in early spring where orders can be placed without this surcharge, but I was never able to make it work logistically and ended up not buying.
Recently, I gifted a pair of Berluti shoes to a friend and junior colleague as a congratulatory present, which made me consider buying myself some leather shoes. I thought about the John Lobb Lawry I’d wanted before, and even considered the standard calf leather version. Wanting to see the shoes in person, I visited the John Lobb Marunouchi store.
Upon arriving at the Marunouchi store, I asked to see the calf leather Lawry. As I visited late on a weekday, a private room used for bespoke fittings at the back was available, and I was shown in.
The staff member mentioned that having a purchase history would make sizing easier. I explained that my last purchase was 25 years ago, so the record might not exist, and provided my name and phone number. The staff member checked immediately and found my details in the customer register. They said that since my previous Derby purchase was a size 7½ on the 8695 last, a size 7½ Lawry would be suitable, and brought out a black calf leather Lawry in 7½.
I tried them on immediately; the size 7½ was absolutely perfect. The beautiful form and comfort were superb, and I was considering the black calf leather Lawry, but when I asked if they had a suede version, they mentioned a dark brown option and checked stock. The Marunouchi store didn’t have the size 7½ dark brown suede Lawry in stock, so they brought a size 8 dark brown suede pair so I could see what it looked like.
It was slightly large, but I tried it on to get a feel for the overall look. During the fitting, I confirmed that the suede was softer and more comfortable to wear than the calf leather. Standing in front of the mirror to check the overall impression, it had a softer, more casual feel than the black calf leather, which I preferred, so I decided on the dark brown suede Lawry.
Size 7½ is fine, so I request the dark brown suede Lawry to be ordered.
At this point, I ask the staff if it’s possible to add rubber soles to the leather soles. They confirm that the John Lobb Marunouchi store can handle this. It feels like a different era compared to the old image, where I couldn’t imagine a John Lobb flagship store offering such a service.
John Lobb Marunouchi Store
During my conversation with staff at the John Lobb Marunouchi store, I asked whether this Marunouchi location had relocated twice. They explained that after opening initially, the store first moved to the opposite side of Nakadori Street before recently relocating to its current premises.
I mentioned that my purchase history was quite old (25 years ago), having bought shoes at the Minatomirai branch and the Aoyama flagship store in Gaien. This led to talk of the store manager at that time. The staff member assisting me had also worked with that manager. When I described him as having the gentle character I remembered, yet being a leather enthusiast and a great lover of John Lobb shoes, the staff member nodded in agreement.
I conveyed that had it not been for the then Aoyama flagship store manager passionately extolling the virtues of John Lobb shoes, my perception of them might have been different, and I might not own and cherish a pair today. This led to a discussion about how that manager was something of a missionary, increasing the number of John Lobb enthusiasts in Japan.
At that time, John Lobb shoes were high-end, but not as expensive as they are now. Rather than being a luxury brand, they were seen as the finest shoes, meticulously crafted by shoemakers. After the bubble economy, they were introduced to Japanese consumers, whose tastes had been refined by the bubble, as one of the finest products available overseas.
They also fundamentally changed the way Japanese people chose leather shoes. The widespread adoption of plain-toe Oxfords with suits in Japan was largely influenced by British shoes such as John Lobb and Edward Green.
The staff at the Marunouchi store who assisted me this time not only possess extensive knowledge about John Lobb shoes, but also offer advice tailored to each customer’s usage patterns and occasions. They also provide clear explanations about the differences in lasts, a topic frequently discussed when purchasing John Lobb shoes.
As mentioned with Berluti, John Lobb also meticulously maintained purchase records dating back 25 years. As leather shoes are items with an exceptionally long lifespan, many customers use them for a lifetime. Consequently, the extended timeframe for customer management is a hallmark of premier shoe retailers. Naturally, both Berluti and John Lobb thoroughly retain and manage the purchase histories of their customers.
Because they are aware of my past purchase history, much like Lawry, when I inquired whether rubber soles could be fitted to my three pairs of leather-soled shoes, they examined the condition of the shoes. They explained that unless the leather soles required a full sole replacement (all-sole), they could prepare the leather soles during maintenance and apply rubber soles, meaning the cost and turnaround time would not be excessive. As John Lobb shoes with shoe trees inserted are quite heavy, bringing all three pairs at once would be difficult. I therefore informed them I would bring them in one pair at a time when I found the time.
I also recalled a past anecdote, a metaphor used by shoe enthusiasts comparing John Lobb to Berluti: “John Lobb could kill a man, but Berluti couldn’t” (meaning that sturdy John Lobb shoes, quite heavy with shoe trees inserted, could serve as a murder weapon for bludgeoning, whereas whereas Berluti, with its softer leather and lighter weight even with a shoe tree, wouldn’t make a suitable murder weapon).
John Lobb shoes also fall within a considerably high price bracket, positioning the brand as a luxury retailer akin to Berluti. The distinction between the two lies in the fundamental approach to customer service: Berluti prioritises the high-end brand experience, treating shoes as an extension of this, resulting in exceptionally attentive and considerate service tailored to the customer. John Lobb also presents a high-end brand image in its shop design and merchandise, but its approach is fundamentally more homely. Its stance is less about offering luxury shoes and more about providing well-made footwear. Product explanations focus less on appearance or status and more on topics like the difference in comfort due to the last used, or the intended usage environment for the shoes available. Staff make suggestions based on the customer’s intended use, guiding them towards selecting shoes that suit them.
Both brands employ staff well-versed in apparel, who will discuss your attire and preferences while assisting with shoe selection. This conversation becomes a truly enjoyable, blissful experience for those passionate about clothing and footwear.
Compared to Berluti, John Lobb sees greater business use, making them particularly adept at discussing formal attire like suits. Rooted in British tradition (though actually French-owned), their focus is more on dressing than pure fashion, meaning conversations about suits and shirts tend to lean more conservative than those at Berluti.
While proceeding with the Lawry fitting, arranging for items to be ordered, and making arrangements to have rubber applied to the leather soles, the conversation flowed freely—covering John Lobb shoes, stories of past shops, and the fashion worn that day.
Conversations with staff at the Marunouchi store also evoked the same stance I sensed 25 years ago at the Aoyama store: providing customers with shoes made from truly fine leather, meticulously crafted by skilled shoemakers, tailored to fit them perfectly, and intended to be cherished for years. It proved a most pleasant experience.
Purchase and Maintenance
The dark brown suede size I selected was unavailable at the Marunouchi store, so it had to be ordered. It arrived at the Marunouchi store within a few days, spanning the weekend, and I took it straight to the workshop to have rubber soles fitted. I was informed it would be ready for collection in about a week, with home delivery also possible.
When collecting the Lawry shoes, I mentioned that I would be bringing in the Barros shoes for maintenance, and would return another day. Trying on the Lawry shoes after they came back from the workshop was fine, and the rubber had been applied neatly. I collected the Lawry shoes and requested maintenance for the Barros shoes I brought in that day, along with rubber soles. The staff member assessed the condition and confirmed that a full sole replacement wasn’t necessary. They provided an estimate and approximate completion time for the maintenance and rubber sole application work. The price was very reasonable, so I agreed without hesitation.
At this point, the staff member remarked nostalgically that the Barros shoe trees were an older type.
Wearing example.
This time, I’ve paired Lawry with chinos and slim-fit cotton trousers. As beige-toned trousers complement it better, I haven’t combined it with denim.
Lawry
- Last 7000
- Colour: Dark Brown Suede
- Leather: Suede
- Sole: Single Sole
- Size: 7 1/2 E Width
Combination
Five-Pocket Trousers: Visvim
Shoes: John Lobb Barros
Chino Trousers: Boncoura
Knitwear: Boncoura
In conclusion
This time, I purchased John Lobb shoes for the first time in 25 years. Times have changed, and alongside the orthodox, timeless British shoes, the range now includes trendier styles. The brand seemed more high-end than before. However, upon actually visiting the shop, handling the products, trying them on, and making the purchase, I found the essence remained firmly intact: that traditional British shoemaker’s stance, like a bespoke shop, offering shoes crafted by skilled shoemakers tailored to the customer, just as I had experienced 25 years ago.
A defining characteristic of John Lobb shoes is that the impression they make when admired without being worn differs, in a positive sense, from the impression when actually worn. This stems from the truly excellent leather selected, the meticulous craftsmanship, and the universally superb design.
Being very orthodox British shoes, they are not flashy, yet they possess an intrinsic dignity that adds a sense of quality to the wearer’s ensemble.
The Lawry I purchased this time is also from John Lobb’s classic line, a very orthodox Chelsea boot. I opted for suede, which is not the most conventional choice, but both the construction and style are quintessentially John Lobb. Even when worn casually, the quality and dignity are maintained. This is the result of a long history of consistently producing fine items without sparing effort.
Being rather pricey, they aren’t something one buys frequently. Yet, when worn, they exude a refined elegance. Their superb comfort and robust construction, promising years of loyal service, inevitably make one yearn for the next pair.
Being suede, they require less upkeep than leather shoes, though one misses the pleasure of polishing them to make them truly one’s own. Nevertheless, the quality of the leather and the craftsmanship ensure they are excellent shoes that will be enjoyed for many years to come.
Shop
This time, I purchased Lawry at the John Lobb Marunouchi store.
As I’ve mentioned several times in the article, it is one of the world’s finest shoes and a brand representing British footwear. With Hermès capital involved, the store exudes a high level of luxury, creating an atmosphere that makes it rather difficult to pop in casually.
However, upon entering the shop, viewing the shoes, and listening to the staff’s explanations, one encounters not merely the image of a luxury brand, but the robust, no-nonsense world of British footwear. These are shoes crafted by skilled shoemakers; they may lack flashy appearance, but they are designed to fit the wearer perfectly, offering exceptional comfort, durability, and longevity.
The staff, too, feel less like luxury brand personnel and more like traditional shoemakers. They pay close attention to foot shape and offer advice to help customers select shoes that truly suit them.
The true value of John Lobb shoes is one that customers come to appreciate after wearing them for a considerable period. This value lies in the shoes gradually moulding to the wearer’s feet over time, achieving a fit and comfort unmatched by other footwear.
John Lobb shoes are exceptionally well-made; if cherished and worn carefully, they can last a lifetime. I have owned three pairs of Derby shoes for 25 years. They show no signs of deterioration; rather, years of wear have moulded them perfectly to my feet. While offering a distinct comfort from trainers, they remain remarkably easy to walk in for extended periods without fatigue, making them utterly indispensable.
John Lobb shoes are fundamentally classic, yet exude understated elegance when worn. The brand provides high-quality footwear tailored to the wearer and operates a system designed for long-term enjoyment. It offers an experience closely aligned with British sartorial culture – akin to having shoes fitted by a British gentleman at a historic British shoemaker’s workshop for years of cherished use.
While the threshold may feel slightly high, the Marunouchi store, which operates with a deep understanding of John Lobb’s philosophy and history, is highly recommended for those seeking shoes that truly fit their feet, possess understated elegance, and can be worn for a lifetime.
