M65 Field Jacket 2nd.Model
I like vintage clothes and I love military wear as well as denim such as Levi’s and Lee. I think the M65 field jacket introduced here is the one that people who like vintage clothes and military wear are interested in or actually get hold of at least once.
The M65 field jacket is the royal road in the royal road of the field jacket of the military system, and the original is the military uniform of the US military supply, and the one that the US military regularly supplied to the member that comes out in second-hand clothes, the one that the regular contractor sold for the public, and the one released from various brands that made M65 a motif. The field jacket is a jacket that has many opportunities to be worn and seen by many people such as those who wear it.
I love M65 field jackets and have three of them in different sizes and different ages.
- 2nd model (1969 made by APPLEL CORP OF AMERICA) Aluminium zip, epaulettes etc Size Small-Short
- 3rd model (remake of New Air Vintage, made in 1970s *tag removed so not identifiable) Brass zip, Medium-Short
- 3rd model (made by ALPHA INDUSTRIES in 1982) Brass zip, epaulettes, etc. Size Small-Short (very tight)
The one introduced this time becomes the second generation M65 that is most frequently used and was supplied by the US Army in the late 1960s, is called the second model, and revised the problems of the initial model (such as the change from no epaulettes to having epaulettes). (Made in 1969)
The second model is famous for being worn by Robert De Niro in the film Taxi Driver.
It is a real military uniform, and functionality is high, and the stoic form which arranged futility is very masculine, and it is very convenient outerwear which can make an atmosphere even if it is only put on denim and a rough jacket.
Introduction.
M65 Field Jacket
The M65 field jacket is a field jacket that was regularly used by the US military from 1965 to 2008. The fabric is a thick cotton-polyester blend surface and lining with a thin liner. This means that it is not associated with the lightness that you might imagine from cotton-nylon outerwear. It is a genuine military garment and can be said to have a convincing mass when considering its durability and functionality.
As for the characteristic form, it is khaki-coloured because of its military specifications, epaulettes on both shoulders, four pockets with flaps, a stand collar with the hood stowed away, the front opening and closing is a double structure of zip and button, etc., and it has excellent functions based on its use as a military uniform and was inspired by the motif of the The outerwear is enormous and its influence on various outerwear designs is immeasurable.
Various outerwear with the M65 motif are in circulation, including authentic second-hand clothing that was regularly issued to members of the US military, as well as those made for civilian use by contractors who are official suppliers to the US military, including various brands from top maisons.
The M65 field jacket has a hard image because it is a genuine military uniform, but in fact it is very easy to wear and is an outerwear with excellent compatibility with various trousers and innerwear, so you can enjoy a variety of outfits if you have one.
Field Jacket.
I often have the opportunity to wear field jackets, which are a little rougher and more enjoyable than tailored jackets, as outerwear to match my denim. In addition to the M65 field jacket in this article, I also use Brunello Cucinelli field jackets, the M43, which is the ancestor of the M65, and the M47, which was adopted by the French army and influenced by the M43.
Field jackets are basically made of a single piece of cotton or cotton-polyester and are mainly worn in spring and autumn, as they are cold in mid-winter and hot in mid-summer. The above Brunello Cucinelli, M43 and M47 are used as outerwear from spring to autumn.
The M65 is a little thicker fabric and has a liner, so it is warmer than the M43 and M47, but it is still a single piece of cotton polyester with a liner, so you need to wear something warmer as an inner layer for mid-winter wear. Although I do not own one, there is also a thermal cotton liner made for the M65, which can be buttoned on and off.
I wear a thick sweater such as a fisherman’s jumper as an inner layer in midwinter, and not only M65s, but also military field jackets are made with ease of movement as a priority, so there is a reasonable amount of room in the sleeves and body width, so a thick inner layer can be worn without problems.
2nd.Model
The M65 field jacket introduced here is the second model made in 1969.The M65 is largely divided into four generations, starting with the initial model without epaulettes, followed by the 2nd model with epaulettes and an aluminium zip, the 3rd model with a brass zip and the 4th model with a plastic YKK zip. The 4th model has been changed to a YKK plastic zip. (There are minor changes.)
I chose the 2nd. model because I was looking for something in the right size, the size that fits me is the Small-Short and the Small-Short happened to be the 2nd. model in stock. As a result, I like the classic 2nd. form as well, but I didn’t start out looking for a 2nd. model. (I found out about the generation and the form after the purchase.)
The M65 field jacket has a tag on the inner neck, and by checking the contents of the tag, you can find out the age the US military issued the jacket, the size, etc. The DSA-100-69-C-0761 on the image of the tag below is the contractor information (delivery information) and the 69 in 100-69 indicates the year of manufacture.
The M65 Field Jacket Second Model differs from other models in that it features:
- Aluminium zippers
- Epaulettes
- Gusseted cuffs
- Chin strap made from the same fabric as the collar
These are its distinguishing characteristics.
Combination
The appeal of the field jacket lies in its functional beauty, crafted for military use, and its stoic military uniform aesthetic, which strongly embodies masculine elements. Designed with rough movement in mind, it can be worn without worrying about creases.
Khaki pairs exceptionally well with denim, and beyond denim, it can be enjoyed with various inner layers and bottoms.
Not limited to the M65, field jackets manufactured as military uniforms prioritise ease of movement, resulting in an overall relaxed silhouette. The most significant difference from modern outerwear is the considerably wide armhole.
This generous armhole can result in a slightly clumsy silhouette, but it was designed with layering clothing in mind to suit the temperature conditions of the battlefield. Consequently, the ample armhole and body width prove invaluable when wearing multiple layers underneath during the depths of winter.
While vintage US military issue and replicas retain this relaxed silhouette, many contemporary outerwear pieces inspired by the M65 feature narrower armholes for a more streamlined look. Numerous releases now offer styles that retain the field jacket’s stoic character and functional beauty while allowing for a stylish wear.
Colours extend beyond khaki to include black, navy, and camouflage patterns, while materials vary beyond cotton-polyester blends to include linen and high-count cotton. For those who find the original US military issue’s rather plain style unappealing, selecting outerwear from various brands inspired by the motif allows one to enjoy wearing the field jacket.
We’ve compiled some styling examples: the classic pairing with denim, which is easy to match and works well, and a less common pairing with slightly more fashion-forward trousers from a bygone era. We hope you find them useful.
The M65 field jacket, broadly speaking, is a military field jacket. Within the US military context, it represents an evolution from the M41, M43, M51, and M65. However, owing to the M65’s highly refined design and form, it was issued by the US military for over 40 years. Its value as a fashion item was subsequently rediscovered in the vintage clothing market. Various brands have used it as a motif, further enhancing its value and popularity. Consequently, when one speaks of a field jacket, the M65 is the standard that comes to mind.
The M65 jacket was issued by the US military for over 40 years, meaning a large number of vintage examples are available. It’s a common sight on the high street, yet remains an excellent outerwear piece: simply throwing it on creates a rugged or stoic look. It can be worn stylishly from late autumn through to early spring.
Wearing example.
(1) When styling the M65, the most common pairing is with denim.
Lee101Z (50s Black Tag article)
The denim is Lee 101Z (50s Black Tag), the inner layer is a Boncourra fisherman’s sweater (Shetland wool), and on my feet I’m wearing White’s semi-dress boots.
The fisherman’s sweater is quite thick, with substantial sleeves and a wide body giving considerable volume, but the M65’s wide armholes allow it to be worn without issue. There’s a slight resistance when moving around, but I wear it regardless.
Given the considerable thickness of the inner layer, there’s a risk of looking bulky, but the M65 itself has a rather loose (slightly clumsy silhouette), so it doesn’t bother me. Interestingly, the M65’s loose, wide silhouette makes the slightly fuller silhouette of the Lee 101Z appear slimmer when paired with other outerwear.
For reference, it also pairs well with the current Levi’s Vintage Clothing (LVC) 1947 One Wash. The deep indigo, close to rigid, complements the M65 khaki nicely, creating a well-balanced combination.
(2) I’ll try swapping the bottoms for something other than denim and changing the inner knit to a lighter knit.
The combination with the fisherman’s sweater creates a voluminous top, so I’ll change the style by wearing a thin knit as an inner layer and pairing it with a slightly more modern M65 field jacket on the bottom.
The knit is a rather tight-fitting V-neck by NoriKoike, purchased around the late 2000s. For the bottom, I’m wearing light taupe cotton trousers by Dolce & Gabbana from the early 2000s. I chose this style because I felt the tight V-neck and untapered trousers resemble a trend that’s recently been making a comeback.
I tend to hold onto things for a long time, so I still treasure items bought quite a while ago. I’ve usually passed most of them on to friends or juniors, but pieces purchased at Barneys in the 2000s were of such good quality and design that I occasionally take them out to wear. This NoriKoike and Dolce & Gabbana are precisely items bought at Barneys back then.
The style of those strongly fashion-forward cotton trousers I bought 25 years ago bears a resemblance to the bootcut-like style that top maisons began incorporating around last year. In reality, they aren’t truly bootcut but rather untapered, resulting in a design with a wider hem width. It’s intriguing that the straight-leg denim released by top maisons this season features a silhouette quite close to that of the era.
Detail
- M65 Field Jacket
- 2nd Model (1966-1972)
- Manufactured 1969
- Fabric: Cotton-polyester blend
- Aluminium zip
- Epaulettes present
- Cuff gussets present
- Size: Small-Short
Combination
- Denim: Lee 101Z (50s Black Tag)
- Cotton trousers: Dolce and Gabbana
- Cashmere fisherman sweater: Boncoura
- V-neck sweater: Nori Koike
- Boots: White’s Semi-Dress
In conclusion
My M65 field jacket is my staple outerwear piece from late autumn through early spring, and it’s one of my absolute favourite jackets. I’d have liked to introduce it sooner, but changes in my living situation meant I stopped updating articles, so this piece is a bit late.
Looking broadly at the M65 field jacket – including not just the authentic version but also motif items – it’s a design so widespread that you see many people wearing it around town. In some cases, you might even wonder if they’re unaware they’re wearing an M65 motif.
The original M65, issued by the US military, was in service for over 40 years, meaning there are many examples available. Vintage prices haven’t skyrocketed, making it easily accessible. If you’re interested, I’d encourage you to get one and see how you can style it.
Personally, as a vintage enthusiast, I appreciate the clumsy style that stands in stark contrast to the body-hugging, sleek designs of contemporary fashion items. However, for those who want to wear a field jacket but are put off by the original M65’s clumsiness, you can still enjoy it by acquiring versions from various brands that incorporate the motif and have been refined for a modern look.
I personally enjoy the M65 by leveraging its loose silhouette. One of the pleasures of the M65 field jacket is its ability to layer generously with voluminous inner pieces, not just the fisherman’s sweater featured here, but also items like Boncoura’s zip hoodie.
I own three M65 field jackets myself. Beyond the 2nd model featured here, the New Air Vintage remake and the 3rd model are also intriguing pieces, which I hope to cover in future articles.
Shop
The M65 Field Jacket 2nd Model featured here was purchased from Berberjin in Harajuku, Tokyo.
They are arguably Japan’s most renowned vintage denim specialist, a long-established vintage shop frequently featured in various media. I have purchased denim such as 501XX and Lee 101Z, along with 50s items, from their sister store, Fake a.
The M65 Field Jacket 2nd Model featured here was purchased via their online shop, and I received exceptionally courteous service.
I’d love to visit Berberjin’s physical shop, but haven’t managed to find the time yet. As befits such an established establishment, they stock an extensive range of American vintage items, including ultra-rare treasures like vintage denim, alongside pieces at more accessible price points. As a shop that leads the industry in pricing, they offer fair value and their merchandise is genuinely authentic.
Since I purchased via their web shop, I can’t provide a detailed introduction to Berberjin itself. However, I covered their sister shop, Fake a, in my article on the 501XX, so please refer to that.
“Berberjin” Global shipping is not supported. Come to the shop when you come to Japan.
