Blog

M47 Field Jacket
French military clothing with a different appeal to American military clothing.

Introduction.

When it comes to vintage military clothing, American military wear is first on the list.

The M35 and M38 motorcycle jackets adopted by the French military and the M47 introduced here are famous when it comes to European military wear. The M47 field jacket, which was adopted in the 1950s, is introduced here.

High sewing skills typical of France

The M47 is more famous for its cargo pants than for its field jackets, and although there are anecdotes from Margiela, it is understandable that they are popular as they are very good cargo trousers that are also compatible with the trendy loose fit. This time, it is not trousers that are introduced, but field jackets that are the jacket.

France, which was exhausted by the Second World War, received assistance from the USA and provided military equipment. At the time, the American military uniform was the M43, and the French military uniform, influenced by the M43, was the M47.

The M43 is made from cotton herringbone twill fabric, while the M47 was made from cotton twill fabric in the early years before it was replaced by the M64 later on, and the M47 was made from cotton herringbone in the later years. The M47, on the other hand, is a military uniform, so it is naturally made on the assumption of mass production and sturdiness like the M43, but there are French innovations here and there that are typical of France with its history of clothing culture.

Looking at the silhouette, the M43 has a linear silhouette, while the M47 consists of a somewhat curved silhouette. The purpose is that both the M43 and M47 are made for ease of movement and functionality in combat, but the subtle narrowing of the body width, shoulder width, sleeve shape and sleeve length are made to fit the body better than the M43. It may sound rough, but it is interesting to compare the difference between the M47 and the M43, which has a long history in clothing and was mass-produced with a subtle range of adjustment to suit the wearer’s body shape, compared to the M43, which was made with the American idea that big is good.

I myself love both the M43 and M47 military items and it is hard to say which is more attractive, but when I think about the jeans to match, I feel that the M43 goes well with jeans that are damaged or faded, while the M47 goes well with jeans that are not damaged or faded so much.

It doesn’t matter if you are not a fan of vintage clothing, and in fact I myself am not that particular about it, but when I take photos and write articles on the subject, I can see a vague image of it in some way. The fabrics are herringbone and twill, and I feel that the presence or absence of a sheen also has an influence.

Although the article is not in context, the M47 is somewhat nicely made compared to American military, and is a recommended field jacket for those who feel American military is hard or want to combine military with a clean look. I chose the M47 because, although it is a genuine military item, I feel that it is somewhat more refined than American military items and is more in tune with modern fashion.

Examples.

With Lee 101Z 50’s.

This is a typical French A-body. Modern silhouette with just the right shoulder fit and sleeve top.

When it gets hot in the spring/summer season, it is wrapped around the waist.

Details.
- 100% cotton twill.
- Four pockets on chest and sides
- Shoulder flap and cuff closure buttons
- A-body silhouette.
- Thicker armholes.
- Modern silhouette when sizing is close to modern clothing sizes and choosing the right size for your body.
- Shoulder width and sleeve shape are true to size.
Combination.
- M47 field jacket, previous period specification, cotton twill material, size 44.
- T-shirt style henley neck knit : TOM FORD size 46
- Denim : Lee 101Z 1950s waist 30inch:length 33inch
- Shoes : Loro Piana : White Sole
- Hat : Borsalino
- Watch : IWC Mark 11 1940s
- Sunglasses : Ray-ban WAYFARER 90’s(BAUSCH+LAMB)
Conclusion.

I love military items and wanted a field jacket different from the M43 and M65, so I got the M47 field jacket. Compared to American military, the modern silhouette and construction is everywhere, and although it is a genuine military item, it is not as hard as American military, so it is useful for a wide range of wearing styles.

This item is recommended for those who want to add a military item that is not too hard to mode fashion or Italian style, rather than American casual.

Shop

The M47 Field Jacket introduced this time was purchased at Post78.
Post78 is a shop that handles a lot of high quality, long-lasting items that the owner, who loves clothes, is particular about. I also enjoy talking about fashion with the owner, who loves clothes, when I shop.

Post78 online store

“Post78” Global shipping is not supported. Come to the shop when you come to Japan.
2023-07-05
White Sole : Loro Piana
Comfortable moccasin shoes made as deck shoes.

White Sole

White Sole

Introduction.

Having worn Brunello Cucinelli suede loafers, I have reconfirmed the quality of suede loafers and have been rummaging through various suede loafers.

The Loro Piana White Sole loafer I am presenting here is a wonderful moccasin style loafer that I acquired after a friend introduced me to its qualities. The Loro Piana White Sole is presented in this issue.

High-quality deck shoes

The Loro Piana white sole is relaxed and easy to wear and was originally made as a deck shoe for the Loro Piana yacht crew to wear on board their yacht. Therefore, it is very easy to put them on and take them off, and my friend who recommended them to me says that he loves them so much that he even uses Whitesole because tying shoelaces is a hassle, and he rotates between three pairs.

When I purchased the shoes, I had a conversation with a Loro Piana staff member who told me that, they were the same shoes he wore in primary school, but as yacht crew wear them, there are many opportunities to take them off at sea and there are grooves on the soles for putting names so that no one can tell whose shoes they are. I had a lively conversation with a staff member who told me that these shoes are also made in the same way as primary Japanese schools shoes.

I chose the darker brown, but they are available in a number of colours. Loro Piana’s white soles come in many varieties, including the “Open Walk” ankle boot, the “Summer Walk” moccasin, the “Venice Walk” espadrille style ” and many other types to suit different uses and tastes.

The origin of the white sole comes from the adoption of a white rubber sole to prevent staining or damaging the deck of a yacht, but because the soles are white, they have a more casual look than normal shoes and white is a useful colour in summer, so they can be worn with jeans, white trousers and shorts. You can enjoy matching them with jeans, white trousers and shorts as well.

Matching Lee 101Z 50’s.

Details.
- Upper : Suede
- Sole : Latex.
- Colour : Walnut : Brown.
- Made in Italy from material processing to production.
- Numerous colours available, depending on season and time of year.
- Made to order available.
Conclusion.

The Loro Piana “White Sole” is a relaxed and functional pair of suede loafers made for sailing staff, which I got in search of a pair of suede loafers to match my jeans. They are moccasin shoes that are so good (due to their high functionality that they can be used in any way) that they remind you of your childhood jacket.

Loro Piana is famous as a fabric merchant and is associated with high-quality fabrics and the world’s best quality cashmere and vicuna, and has an image of high-quality and expensive clothes, but the white sole introduced this time is expensive, but it is a price range that you can buy if you work hard, so you can wear it in a casual style. These moccasin shoes are recommended for those who want to wear relaxed leather shoes.

Shop

My white soles are purchased at the Loro Piana Ginza shop. The shop is prestigious and difficult to get into, but if you tell them your requirements at the entrance, they will guide you through the shop with a member of staff.

I have only ever purchased white soles, but the cashmere and vicuna knitwear and outerwear on display in the shop are of the highest quality, and are items that I would love to wear as a lifetime item when I am a little older and have more life experience. When it comes to the actual purchase, the staff will kindly take the time to guide you through the products in detail so that you can enjoy a satisfying buying experience.

There is also an extensive women’s line and a home collection, so why not stop by when you and your wife are in Ginza? Although cashmere and vicuna have a strong image, the shop is a leading Italian fabric merchant, so it also offers high quality, functional jackets and suits made from cotton, linen and wool, with excellent water repellent processing for coats and outerwear.

The only two fabric merchants that can purchase Vicuna’s raw wool are Loro Piana and Aniona (under the umbrella of Zegna), which are introduced here, but it is an anecdote that is typical of Loro Piana and Zegna, which are top-notch fabric merchants.

Loro Piana official website
2023-07-03
Enjoy Coloured T-shirts Brunello Cucinelli Slim Fit T-shirt Yellow and Red
The Brunello Cucinelli slim-fit T-shirt introduced with the white T-shirt, but the yellow and red versions in different colours are excellent and useful in summer.

Brunello Cucinelli Slim Fit T-shirt

Introduction.

This slim-fit T-shirt from Brunello Cucinelli was introduced in the article about the white T-shirt, but we liked the comfort and excellent styling due to the best fabric and advanced tailoring, so we wanted a different colour and got a yellow and red one. It is good to put on the seemingly gaudy colour by the exquisite colour degree, and to be settled when it puts it on, and to be put together very stylishly even if it puts it on by itself or under the jacket.

[ Brunello Cucinelli Slimfit T-shirt’s Article]

A cotton T-shirt but with a different dimension in terms of fabric and construction, comfortable and beautifully styled, the Slim Fit T-Shirt by Brunello Cucinelli The ultimate piece that we arrived at after searching for a good, universal white T-shirt…

The yellow is worn with a medium grey jacket and the red with a light khaki field jacket. At first I thought I would match the red with the jacket and the yellow with the field jacket, but then I thought that the lightness and darkness of the colours would be more appropriate than the colour combination, so I matched the dark red with the light-coloured field jacket and the light yellow with the dark-coloured jacket.

This time I have matched them with jeans, but in the coming season I will have more opportunities to wear cut-off denim with just a T-shirt and a coloured T-shirt. My cut-off denim is mainly 501 cut-offs, so yellow and red T-shirts are very useful. The yellow and red of the print T-shirt which is considerably casual is worn well, and it is a very excellent colour T-shirt which can be put together elegantly and stylishly while being casual by wearing the slim fit T-shirt of Brunello Cucinelli while extending the style.

As innerwear for tailored jackets.

As innerwear for tailored jackets.

A T-shirt can be worn beautifully with a single T-shirt.

The shoulder and chest lines are beautifully defined from advanced tailoring techniques.

As innerwear for field jackets.

It is a quintessential red that is quite loud but fits beautifully when worn.

A T-shirt can be worn beautifully with a single T-shirt.

An excellent T-shirt that is put together in style.

Excellent tailoring gives a muscular appearance around the shoulders and arms.

Yellow goes great with indigo.

Flashy red also works well with indigo.

Details.
- 100% cotton.
- Slim fit that follows the lines of the body but is comfortable and roomy to wear.
- Made of high count fine cotton, the fabric is soft but taut and non-transparent.
- Tight neck cut-outs, no loose fitting.
- Short sleeves top, ribbed cuffs with reinforced light grey or white accents, moderately fitted.
- The length is a little longer, yet the silhouette is clean and well-styled.
Combination.

Slim-fit T-shirt in yellow.
- Crew neck T-shirt : Brunello Cucinelli Slim Fit T-Shirt (Yellow)
- Jacket : Cavallo Jaket : Brunello Cucinelli (MTM)
- Denim : Brunello Cucinelli Slim Fit Denim
- Hat : Borsalino
- Watch : Rolex Day Date 1803(1969)
- Sunglasses : Ray-ban WAYFARER 90’s (BAUSCH+LAMB)
- Belt : Brunello Cucinelli : Calf suede belt
- Shoes : Brunello Cucinelli : Suede penny loafer
Slim-fit T-shirt (red)
- Crew neck T-shirt : Brunello Cucinelli Slim Fit T-Shirt (Red)
- Field jacket : Brunello Cucinelli size 46
- Denim : Brunello Cucinelli Slim Fit Denim
- Hat : Borsalino
- Watch : Rolex Sub Mariner 1680(1972)
- Sunglasses : Ray-ban WAYFARER 90’s(BAUSCH+LAMB)
- Belt : Brunello Cucinelli : Calf suede belt
- Shoes : Brunello Cucinelli : Perforated suede sneakers
Conclusion.

When I tried on the white T-shirt, it was so good that I got the yellow and red ones in different colours, Brunello Cucinelli slim-fit T-shirts. The quality of the construction is on another level and the T-shirt looks great on its own or worn as an inner layer.

I have a pattern of buying three of the same item or three of different colours if I like it. Brunello Cucinelli products are of impeccable quality and the satisfaction after purchase is very high, but the products are inevitably expensive and difficult to afford, and there is an attraction that makes me think about buying them even if I have to push myself.

The quality and the care afterwards are also safe, and it is a recommended brand that wants the person who wants to enjoy really good things with attachment for a long time to try because it is wonderful even if it is an outerwear, a jacket, trousers, knitwear, shoes and accessories in every case though it is a T-shirt this time.

Shop

I buy my Brunello Cucinelli products at the Brunello Cucinelli Ginza shop.
As mentioned in the Field Jacket article, it’s a great shop, not only for the products and the shop, but also for the people involved, so why not pay a visit?
You can read more about the shop in article on Field Jacket.

[ Brunello Cucinelli Field Jacket’s Article ]

Brunello Cucinelli official website
2023-07-01
Suede Penny Loafer: Brunello Cucinelli
Soft and comfortable suede loafers.

Suede Penny Loafer

Introduction.

I mainly wear sneakers or boots with jeans, and the only occasion I have had to wear loafers is when I wore Berluti Dandy Sauvage in the past, and the only leather shoes I wear with suits are outer-skin lace-up shoes, and I’ve never worn suede loafers. The suede penny loafers from Brunello Cucinelli introduced here are very good loafers, comfortable to wear and stylish even when worn with jeans. In this article, we present the Brunello Cucinelli suede loafer.

Loafers that are comfortable and can be worn like trainers

Brunello Cucinelli, which we often write about in our media, is a brand whose clothes, shoes and accessories are consistent with what is pleasant to wear, high quality materials, good tailoring, comfort from the craftsman’s skill and attention to detail, and excellent styling and fit, no matter which product you choose. I love the relaxing and enjoyable quality, and the understatedness that is not too conspicuous due to the exquisite power of the relaxed look, which makes me interested in all sorts of things.

The Brunello Cucinelli suede penny loafers I’m presenting here are also very stylish, yet, like my favourite New Balance trainers, they offer excellent comfort. The suede is soft, the upper is made to feel pleasant and the sole is made of soft natural rubber, so you never feel the hardness of the sole and it has the soft comfort of a sneaker.

Compared to sneakers and driving shoes, leather shoes have hard soles, which makes driving a car more difficult, but Brunello Cucinelli suede loafers have moderately soft soles, which makes driving a car easier and can be used as driving shoes.

If the soles are only soft, there will be problems with durability and comfort, but Brunello Cucinelli craftsmen in the village of Solomero in Italy carefully make them, so while they are soft and comfortable, they are well made, and they are not just soft shoes, but have a solid durability and a thin sole. The sole is thin and there is none of the unpleasantness that tends to be felt when soft.

Styling, while the nose is round and cute look, the instep is low, the width is also a slim shape, so it has a relaxed and clean styling. The width is D-wise, and the width and instep are tight, but compared to the D-wise of normal leather shoes, they are easy to wear, so when they fit your feet, you can create a sleek foot.

I often wear them with straight jeans such as Levi’s 501s, but you can enjoy sophisticated styling by wearing them with tapered Brunello Cucinelli jeans and showing your ankles.

Wearing example.

Shown here with Slim fit comfort denim.

Suede loafers with cavallos.

Details.
- Leather lining
- Natural rubber sole
- TPU rubber outsole
- Genuine leather.
- Washed suede.
- Size: 40
- Colour : Light brown.
Conclusion.

I have never worn suede loafers myself, but I enjoy wearing them with jeans as well as high quality trainers, because of the soft and comfortable feel of the leather shoes developed by Brunello Cucinelli in general, while maintaining the solid quality of leather shoes.

As an aside, I myself love leather products because of the texture that develops as you use them more and more, and the enjoyment of caring for them. I have always chosen leather shoes that I can enjoy polishing from the pleasure of this care, but this time I got suede loafers, which are more casual than the surface leather, and I reconfirmed the goodness of suede from the simplicity of regularly spraying it with suede spray and adjusting the grain with a suede brush. The suede is also easy to care for.

Brunello Cucinelli suede loafers come with a suede brush for care.

Brunello Cucinelli suede leather shoes, the suede is made from a very soft and textured material, which is thin suede, washed and carefully brushed by craftsmen, and the sole rubber is made from natural rubber. The sole is made of natural rubber. The use of traditional natural materials and the time-consuming traditional production is done in consideration of the environment, and the stance of the company that takes such time and effort for granted is also a reason why I love Brunello Cucinelli.

Shop.

My Brunello Cucinelli items are purchased at the Brunello Cucinelli Ginza store.
As I mentioned in my article on field jackets, it is a wonderful store not only for its products and stores, but also for the people involved.
For more information about the store, please refer to article on Field Jacket.

[ Brunello Cucinelli Field jacket’s Article ]

Brunello Cucinelli official website
2023-06-29
IWC Mark11 RAF(Royal Air Force)
A genuine military watch, commonly known as a “Broad Arrow”, delivered to the Royal Air Force and owned by the Royal Air Force and issued to its personnel.

IWC Mark11 RAF.

Introduction

IWC (INTERNATIONAL WATCH CO) was commissioned by the British Ministry of Defence in the late 1940s to produce the Mark 11, a genuine military watch with high military specifications. IWC (INTERNATIONAL WATCH CO) and Jaeger-LeCoultre were the two companies that received the order at this time, and the request was for an inner case to provide high precision, antimagnetic and dustproof properties as an aviation watch, and a black dial with Arabic numerals and luminescence for high legibility, so the two companies that had this technology at the time The company has been adopted by two companies that had this technology at the time. The watch is made for use in the Royal Air Force, so it is known as the RAF for Royal Air Force. The military watches delivered by 12 companies, which had been commissioned by the British Ministry of Defence to deliver military watches since wartime, were called the Dirty Dozen and had the Broad Arrow emblem on the dial. The IWC Mark 11 is a genuine Air Force watch, produced and delivered for aircraft by IWC, which had previously delivered the Mark 10 to the Ministry of Defence during the war.

Attractive military specifications

The Mark 11 watch introduced here was commissioned by the Royal Air Force in 1948 and produced by IWC (INTERNATIONAL WATCH CO.) as a military watch for aircraft. The features include magnetic resistance, dust resistance, water resistance, easy-to-read black dial with white Arabic numerals, nocturnal paints and high accuracy as an aviation watch, with a double structure (inner case adopted) for magnetic resistance and dust resistance.

My watch is marked with a T mark (tritium luminescent), but it is said to have been made with radium luminescence in early 1948 and replaced after 1962 at the request of the Royal Air Force. (This is speculation in this area.) My own was manufactured in 1948, and at that time it was radium luminescent, so it makes sense that the T mark was added as a later change.

The reason I became interested in this Mark 11 and actually got it and started using it is that it was originally made as a pilot’s watch and is very robust with military specifications, it has a simple black dial with high legibility and a NATO belt that fits very well (it is genuine, of course), and I originally I have always liked IWC watches and wanted one of the Mark series.

I was also attracted to the fact that the Mark 11 is a watch with many stories to tell, such as the adoption of the inner case, the story of how this technology was taken over by the later Ingenieur, the story of the Dirty Dozen, and the story of the Broad Arrow.

The Mark 11 was manufactured for a long time, from 1948 until 1981, when it was adopted by the Royal Ministry of Defence, and then manufactured for civilian use until 1984. It was delivered not only to the Royal Air Force but also to the Royal Australian Air Force, the Royal New Zealand Air Force and the South African Air Force, and was also made for civilian use, each with its own advantages. Production ceased for a time, but in 1994 the Mark 12 was introduced, and production has continued ever since, with the Mark 20 now in production. Of these, the Mark 11, which was actually made for military use, is a very attractive watch.

When I visited the shop where it was sold, I decided on it because of the responsiveness of the shop staff, the various conversations we had and the quality of the actual thing. When purchasing an antique or vintage watch, it is very important to want to buy from this person and this shop, and this Mark 11 also met those conditions.

The small 36mm diameter stainless steel case is just right, and the large crown, easy-to-read dial and NATO belt make it easy to wear, and I enjoy wearing it with jeans, military outerwear and even a T-shirt.
The so-called “Dirty Dozen” watches from the Second World War, the generation before my Mark 11, have a wide range of collectors, from those who own one of their favourites to those who have completed the so-called 12 watches produced by 12 different companies. If you are interested in IWC watches, I think you can find your favourite one and enjoy it.
IWC watches are not as well-known to the public as Rolex watches, so it is rare to be approached about watches.

Examples.

IWC Mark11 RAF.

IWC Mark11 RAF.

IWC Mark11 RAF.

Details

1 Mark 11 (6B346)
2 Year 1948 Supplied later replaced with tritium luminescence
3 Case Stainless steel
4 Bracelet NATO strap (current black)
5 Windscreen Plastic windscreen (Plexiglas)
6 Dial Black Arabic dial with tritium luminescent hands (slightly but firmly luminescent)
7 Hand-wound caliper Cal. 89.

What we like.
- Simple three-hand manual winding is easy to use.
- Functional beauty of a real military watch.
- Easy to read dial made with legibility in mind.
- Ease of winding thanks to the large crown.
- User-friendly size of 36 mm diameter
- Universality of design that continues in later Mark series
- The ease of use of the NATO belt and its good balance.
Points of concern.
- Water resistance is not expected to be as good as current models.
- The winding moderation is very solid, although not as good as current products.
- Even considering the above problems, it has a unique atmosphere not found in current products, so it doesn’t bother me too much.
Conclusion

I have a IWC Mark 11, which I got because I wanted a military watch to go with it because I like military outerwear, and it has the functional beauty and story of a real military watch that was actually delivered to the British Ministry of Defence and supplied to the Royal Air Force. The fact that it is highly practical leads to attachment and I enjoy using it frequently, even though it is a very old watch that was supplied in 1948.

Shop

I bought my IWC Mark 11 RAF from Dazzling in Omotesando, Tokyo. This shop has operated shops in England and Japan in the past and has a British collector’s perspective on antiques. The watches we deal with are as original as possible, and we do not replace parts for the purpose of making them look better, and we mainly deal with watches that maintain their original condition as much as possible so that they can be used normally. The shop has inherited the European culture of antiques, where old things are carefully preserved.

The shop has a very sophisticated European atmosphere, but the staff are friendly and comfortable. The shop also handles very old and rare watches, and although there are concerns about later repairs, this shop can make a watch from scratch if parts are not available, so you can enjoy your beloved watch for a long time. The shop also has a very interesting stance, like the restoration of old European cars, which is not often seen in Japanese shops.

Naturally, the shop has a great eye for the watches it handles, with a consistent quality that ranges from rare and highly valuable watches to less expensive ones that can be enjoyed on a daily basis, and it also has a great selection of European values. The selection of watches as well as watches as fashion is also attractive and can be enjoyed by women as well as men.

When I bought my IWC Mark 11 RAF, the female staff were very kind and talked to me about fashion and my hobbies while I looked at the watches, making the experience a very enjoyable one.
If you like antique watches, such as Rolex, but not sports models, older watches, IWC, Omega, LeCoultre, Hamilton, Smith, Lemania Chrono, etc., you will never get tired of looking at them, as they are displayed with great taste. We recommend that you visit them when you are in Omotesando or Harajuku.

Antique watch specialty shop Dazzling

“Antique watch specialty shop Dazzling” Global shipping is not supported. Come to the shop when you come to Japan.
2023-06-27
Lee 101Z 50’s Center Black tag
Zip fly with different charm from Levi’s.

Lee 101Z 50’s

Lee 101Z 50’s.

Lee 101Z 50’s leather patch.

Lee 101Z 50’s centre black tag.

Introduction.

I used to think of jeans as button-fly Levi’s 501s, but the Lee 101Z taught me the appeal of zip fly and more trouser-like styling, a very wearable model and excellent jeans that are not as fussy as the 501XX! .

Loose-fitting silhouette and convenient zip fly

The Lee 101Z is a pair of jeans that I was interested in, but never got around to getting because there are fewer of them than Levi’s and not much information about them. My 101Z is a model from the 50s called the centre black tag.

They were originally made for cowboys, and compared to 501s, they have a deeper crotch and a slightly looser silhouette, and although they are jeans, they are shaped like straight trousers with a beautiful silhouette, so they are excellent jeans that are easy to match with any clothes and easy to use.

In modern times, because of their silhouette, they have the image of being chosen by people who ride motorbikes (motorbike riders who ride American styles such as Harleys and classic Triumphs), and in fact, my friend’s Harley rider loves wearing Lee 101Z.

The reason why I bought 101Z was because I wanted jeans with a zip fly, and when I went to Fake-a in Harajuku to look for 501ZXX, I couldn’t find my perfect size, and the manager recommended 101Z to me.
Thanks to the silhouette, which is thick in the waist and straight to the hem, they go well with heavy boots and give a hard, cool style.

The size is a little long with a 30inch waist and 33inch length, but I wear them without rolling them up because I can wear them without the hem touching the ground when I wear shoes with heels.
The Lee 101Z was worn by James Dean in the film “Rebel Without a Cause”, so I have an image of American youths and delinquents in the 1950s. I thought that image was too strong and that they were jeans with strong habits, but when I got them and tried them on, I found that they were very easy to wear, forgiving enough to wear with any clothes, and thanks to their relaxed silhouette and zip fly, they are comfortable to wear and have the goodness to pick up and wear without thinking about it.

Compared to Levi’s, Lee jeans tend to be more colourfast than Levi’s due to the fabric and dyeing process, with the colour remaining in the jeans. Many of them have faded colour only around the knees and buttocks, but this fading is also a result of ageing and is very appealing.

Like the 501s, these jeans were originally made as workwear and have excellent functional beauty, and they are still made the same way they have been for many years. In winter, I mainly wear them with a leather jumper such as A2 or J100 and a pair of White’s boots for a slightly harder look, but in spring and summer I enjoy wearing them lightly with a T-shirt and suede loafers.

Examples.

Lee 101Z 50’s M47 with suede loafers on the feet.

Lee 101Z 50’s Lee 101Z 50’s T-shirt – a single T-shirt can also be used to create an atmosphere.

Lee 101Z 50’s Comfortable to wear due to deep crotch.

Lee 101Z 50’s

Details.
- Black centre tag (50s)
- 6 belt loops
- 30inch waist, 33inch length.
- Tapping repair on back pockets.
- Colour remains dark.
Combination.
- Field jacket : M47 size 44.
- T-shirt-style henley neck knit : TOM FORD size 46
- Denim : Lee 101Z 1950s waist 30inch:length 33inch.
- Shoes : Loro Piana : White Sole
- Hat : Borsalino
- Watch : IWC Mark 11 1940s
- Sunglasses : Ray-ban WAYFARER 90’s(BAUSCH+LAMB)
Conclusion

I’ve been looking for a 501ZXX and came across these Lee 101Z 50s. But I feel that not insisting on it is the greatest charm of Lee101Z. The fact that they are made like trousers, so they are more relaxed and easier to wear than Levi’s jeans, is also a reason why they are used more often. I’m looking for another pair as a spare, but I haven’t found them yet because there are not many to begin with, but it’s also fun to search patiently for vintage jeans that suit you.

Shop

I buy my Lee 101Z 50s at Fake-a (Fake Alpha) in Harajuku, Tokyo.
As mentioned in the articles on 501XX 1954Model and printed corduroy shirts, the quality of 40s and 50s American vintage clothing is probably the best in Japan, and the staff, including the manager, are well versed in vintage clothing, making it a great shop where you can be satisfied with any item you choose.
For more information about the shop, see 501XX 1954Model and 50’s printed corduroy shirt

The website of Fake-a is in the same family as that of Belle Belgin, which is famous in Harajuku, so please visit them when you go to Harajuku.

Belle Belgin official website

“Belle Belgin official website” Global shipping is not supported. Come to the shop when you come to Japan.
2023-06-25
White’s Semi-Dress
Boots to match 501XX.

White’s Semi-Dress.

Introduction.

I often wear boots with long length jeans, and the most frequently used boots are the White’s Semi-Dress boots introduced here.
The heel is high and the slant is a little forward, so you wear them in a posture like standing on tiptoes, which is uncomfortable at first, but they are very good boots that elongate your back, improve your posture and make your legs look longer.

Well-made and once they feel good on your feet, you won’t want to let them go.

Unlike other boots, the feeling of wearing them is like standing on tiptoes, and until your feet get used to the hard leather and the thickness of the soles, you may feel uncomfortable, but after wearing them for a few days, you will soon get used to them. The hard leather becomes soft and comfortable when you get used to them, and the shape of the toe stand gives you a good posture and a good look when you wear them.

The size recommended in the shop is one to two sizes smaller than the average shoe size. When the shop staff fits you, they do not dare to tell you the size, but you will be surprised when you hear the actual size.
The leather is made from chrome Excel leather, a thick, carefully tanned cowhide from the Hawwynn company. The Horween company is famous for its Shell Cordovan, and many Alden leather shoes are made from Horween leather and are well known to people who like leather products and leather shoes. The leather is of very high quality, so it is highly durable and the more you use it, the more it adapts to your feet.

They are made using the Goodyear welt method, sewn with sturdy Irish linen, with a hot sole and a Vibram sole, so they are made to be durable and prevent water penetration, despite being leather shoes.
The boots are made of carefully selected materials with priority given to functionality, so they are highly recommended boots with a very high degree of attachment when worn. I wear them with my long 501XX and Lee 101Z.

Wearing example.

White’s Semi-Dress.

White’s Semi-Dress.

DETAILS.
- LAST: #55 E.
- HEIGHT: 5 INCH
- UPPER LEATHER: CHROMECXEL BROWN
- MID SOLE: SINGLE
- SOLE: VIBRAM #700STITCH: DOUBLE
- HARD WEAR:BRASS
- * Information as stated by the retailer.
What we like.
- Functionality made tough with high quality, tough cowhide leather.
- Lasts based on dress shoes, a style that’s more than just hard wearing.
- High heel and styling that makes the foot look longer when worn.
- Leather shoes are often hesitant to use in the rain, but the functionality allows you to wear them without worrying about the rain.
Concerns.
- The leather is hard when you first take them down, so they hurt around your ankles and the base of your thumbs, but after wearing them a few times you will get used to them and not mind them.
- The boots are worn with a high heel and forward lean, so they feel a little uncomfortable when running (I don’t think you’ll be running in these boots most of the time).
- The above points are minor things, and these are excellent leather boots that you will love once they are comfortable on your feet.
Conclusion.

White’s Semi-Dress boots were chosen as boots to wear with long length jeans. The leather products are made and made of materials that are perfect for leather goods lovers, and the more you use them, the more you will love them. They are also sturdy and functional and will not wear out in the rain, so we recommend them to anyone who wants to cherish and use their favourite pair of boots for a long time.

SHOP

My White’s Semi-Dress boots were purchased at StompTown in Shibuya. As mentioned in the article, the staff, who know White’s shoes inside out, will fit you exactly to size, so I recommend them to those who are looking for boots that you can love for a long time, as they offer shoes in such a way that you can later become attached to your feet and get used to them.
The shop also stocks Danner and Red Wing shoes in the American style, so you will be able to find shoes and boots to your liking.
There is also an online shop, so those who live far away can also buy from the online shop.
The shop offers fitting services so that you can use your favourite shoes for a long time, so I think you will be more satisfied if you go to the shop and actually have them fitted before you buy them.

STUMPTOWN online shop

“STUMPTOWN online shop” Global shipping is not supported. Come to the shop when you come to Japan.
2023-06-23
Slim fit comfort denim : Brunello Cucinelli
Italian-style slim-fit denim with a beautiful silhouette.

Slim fit comfort denim

Slim fit comfort denim

Slim fit comfort denim

Introduction.

Most of the jeans I wear are straight jeans, but the staff at the Brunello Cucinelli Ginza shop recommended the Slim Fit Comfort Denim, which I tried on and was amazed at the beautiful legs.

Try everything

When I was younger, I used to choose clothes based on what I liked, and I would buy the same kind of things all the time.
In the past I would not have worn a casual tailored jacket, but in my relationship with the staff at the Brunello Cucinelli Ginza shop, who have been very helpful to me, I was recommended a jacket for the spring/summer season, and when I made it to order, I became very attached to it, and it has come in handy when I go out in Tokyo, have dinner with friends, etc. It is very useful for outings in Tokyo and dinners.
I chose the field jacket as this season’s outerwear as an extension of my original love of military wear, but when I tried on a tailored jacket that was recommended to me, I found that it fit better than I had imagined, so the Ginza shop staff’s suggestions give me new discoveries, so I don’t decide what I like or dislike based on my image and try them out. I try to give it a try.
I often talk about my preferences for straight jeans and military wear, so the staff at the Ginza shop also recommend Brunello Cucinelli jeans, but I have never tried them on until now because they said they would suggest them to me at a time when I would want them.

It all started with shoes

Brunello Cucinelli has high quality shoes as well as clothes, and I have mountain boots that are developed in the autumn/winter season, but the sole is soft and they are very comfortable to wear, so I also got suede loafers because of their comfort, and I heard that sneakers are also recommended during the summer, so I also got trainers.
When it comes to enjoying very comfortable loafers and trainers, the tapered jeans developed by Brunello Cucinelli are a better candidate than my straight jeans.
I also decide to try the Brunello Cucinelli jeans as they are useful as jeans to wear in the summer, as the 501XX and Lee 101 are closed during the summer months.

I chose a darker slim fit

Brunello Cucinelli jeans come in three main shapes: relaxed fit, regular fit and slim fit, each with different fabrics, colours and, for blue jeans, different types of damage or fading.
The slim-fit jeans proposed this time are the most tapered hemmed shape, called slim fit. I chose this shape because it is a little shorter in length and can be worn with loafers or sneakers, barefoot in summer to show the ankles, and in winter to play with the colour of socks, and because it fits best with my body shape and the outerwear I wear.
There are four colours available, from dark blue to light blue, but I choose the darkest colour, dark denim, in consideration of the outerwear and T-shirt I wear with them.

Jeans but made and fitted like tailored trousers

We ask you to bring your size and try them on. Normally I would be a size 46, but as there is a bit of extra room, I go for a size 44. When I tried them on, I felt that they were tight in the thighs and shins, but had a slight extra in the waist. This waist room turns out to be room enough for tucking in a shirt. The tailoring of these jeans is quintessentially Brunello Cucinelli, and although they are slim, they are calculated to be worn with a jacket.
We choose a size 44 and decide on the length. At this point, we talk to the staff and they suggest that the length should be a little shorter, but when wearing loafers, it should be styled as if you were wearing trainers rolled up, not rolled up, so we adjust the length to achieve that shape.
The length is packed, but with a beautiful hit on the hem, so when the hemming is done, we have the hemming done in such a way that the hit is left on the hem. I am impressed by the skill and the fact that this kind of finishing is a matter of course.
After the hemming is done, when I actually try them on, I am impressed that the exquisite length, originally beautifully styled slim jeans fit my body exquisitely and have a beautiful leg effect, and the slim-fit jeans that I chose after various exchanges based on the staff’s suggestions again this time exceeded my initial likes and dislikes and have changed my I had a very satisfying experience that changed my stereotypes about jeans.

Examples.

Suede loafers with cavallo Jacket.

With yellow slim-fit T-shirt.

The belt is a “Puntale” belt with a tip.

Hips also show nicely.

Field jacket with white suede sneakers.

Red slim-fit T-shirt and blue, red and white are the colours of the French flag tricolor.

Slim fit comfort denim

Details.
- Button fly
- 11 oz denim
- 17.5cm hemline.
  Slim fit: close-fitting line from waist to leg, slightly low-rise waist * 98% cotton, 2% elastane
- 98% Cotton, 2% Elastane
- Indigo colour is closer to Lee than Levi’s
- Size 44.
Combination.

Jaket.
- Crew neck T-shirt : Brunello Cucinelli Slim Fit T-Shirt (Yellow)
- Jacket : Cavallo Jaket : Brunello Cucinelli (MTM)
- Denim : Brunello Cucinelli Slim Fit Denim
- Hat : Borsalino
- Watch : Rolex Day Date 1803(1969)
- Sunglasses : Ray-ban WAYFARER 90’s (BAUSCH+LAMB)
- Belt : Brunello Cucinelli : Calf suede belt
- Shoes : Brunello Cucinelli : Suede penny loafer
Field Jacket.
- Crew neck T-shirt : Brunello Cucinelli Slim Fit T-Shirt (Red)
- Field Jacket : Brunello Cucinelli size 46
- Denim : Brunello Cucinelli Slim Fit Denim
- Hat : Borsalino
- Watch : Rolex Sub Mariner 1680(1972)
- Sunglasses : Ray-ban WAYFARER 90’s(BAUSCH+LAMB)
- Belt : Brunello Cucinelli : Calf suede belt
- Shoes : Brunello Cucinelli : Perforated suede sneakers
Conclusion

Brunello Cucinelli’s slim-fit denim changed my idea that jeans should be straight, and once again I am impressed by the nostalgic clothing production that changes stereotypes and proposes new ways to enjoy them. Originally, I had avoided wearing loafers with bare ankles because I thought it would not suit me, although it looks great on fashionable people, but when I tried it on myself, I found it very interesting. I now realise that the bottom is made with the effect of beautiful legs in mind in how the whole body is styled, and I hope to incorporate it into my style in the future.

Shop

My Brunello Cucinelli items are purchased at the Brunello Cucinelli Ginza store.
As I mentioned in my article on field jackets, it is a wonderful store not only for its products and stores, but also for the people involved.
For more information about the store, please refer to article on Field Jacket.

Field Jacket : Brunello Cucinelli

Brunello Cucinelli official website
2023-06-21
Leica SL2-S

The photos on this site were taken with a Leica SL2-S.

When I decided to create this media and thought about photography, I thought a lot about which camera would be best, but I decided that I wanted a Leica that I was familiar with, and since I had only used the M-type before, I took the plunge and went with the mirrorless Leica SL2-S.

I also considered the high pixel Leica SL2, but for my purposes, the Leica SL2-S, with just the right number of pixels, has been useful.
Both the Leica SL2 and the Leica SL2-S are just running a campaign and are very reasonably priced.
I purchased the Leica SL2-S & Vario-Elmarit SL f2.8/24-70mm ASPH. set.

Decided with precise advice.

I purchased this camera at Leica Ginza store. I decided on this set after consulting with the experienced staff at the Leica Ginza store. I have known him for a long time as he is a veteran of the Leica Ginza store and has been spreading the charm of Leica to various customers for many years.

He used to work in the lab, so he has seen the final finishing process of professional photographers for a long time, and he knows the whole process from taking the picture to the final finishing. He also explains why this is so.

The main reasons for the SL2-S’s advantages are its high sensitivity and the fact that the file size is appropriate and easy to use. He is a person who has seen a lot of professional final products, so we talked a lot about the final size, how much margin to allow for when considering cropping tolerance, and how much of a burden the margin would be on the actual file management and development work. I decided on the SL2-S after receiving advice from a more professional viewpoint rather than my own, which was to buy a high-resolution camera if I had to.

He also told me that although there are many high-performance single focal length lenses available, it is not too late to actually take pictures and see which size fits best, and that although it is a standard zoom, the picture at the telephoto end is of sufficiently high quality to convince me. He also explains that the wide end is also fine for non close-up shots and that it is a good lens when viewed as a stand-alone lens, although you can feel the difference when compared to Leica’s single focal length.

After using it for a while.

After using the lens for a while, I can say that it was a good choice.
I have no complaints about the way I take pictures now, and the quality of the pictures is very Leica quality.

It doesn’t have the fun of the M model, but the versatility of the SL series is its greatest appeal.

Also, the concept of menus and buttons is similar to that of the M model, so I can use most of them without even looking at the instruction manual.
It seems that the next generation of SL series will be coming out soon, but for the time being, this SL2-S has enough quality to satisfy my needs, so I am very satisfied with this purchase.

I can also take the following photos with the Selfie
The choice of the Leica SL2-S & Vario-Elmarit SL f2.8/24-70mm ASPH. set was a big factor.

Field Jacket : Brunello Cucinelli

Schiesser Revival Karl-heinz

Levi’s 501XX 1955 Model

Shop.

The Leica SL2-S & Vario-Elmarit SL f2.8/24-70mm ASPH. set was purchased at the Leica Ginza store.

I recommend this store because it is the first directly managed Leica store in Japan and the staff, who are well versed in Leica, can make various suggestions to make your shopping experience a satisfactory one. The SL series, which I purchased this time, is a versatile camera and there is no picture that it cannot take, but the picture that comes out is definitely Leica quality.

Leica Camera website

2023-06-18
Enjoy your photos Leica M

Film photography is more tedious than modern digital photography, but it’s a lot of fun.

Leica M3

Introduction.

In this article, I would like to introduce film Leica cameras.
Leica cameras have many fans all over the world and are famous for their rangefinder cameras, so called “M” cameras.
I also love Leica cameras and own three film cameras, the first generation A, M3, and M4, and three digital cameras, MD (Type 246), the first generation MMono-Chrome, and M10-R Black Paint.

Shooting with a distance meter? A brief description of the M Leica.

There are many books and websites that explain Leica, and talking about it would take a book or so, so I won’t go into them here, but simply put, the rangefinder of the M-type Leica is a frame linked to the rangefinder, and when the double images match, the camera focuses on the subject as seen by the lens. The camera does not focus on the subject as seen through the lens, but on the subject in the separate window of the rangefinder.
With an SLR camera, you focus on the subject actually reflected through the lens, and if the f-number is 1.4 or so, the difference in focus between the background and the subject (depth of field) is visible in the viewfinder, so you can take a picture as it actually appears in the viewfinder while confirming that the background is beautifully out of focus. With the Leica, however, the subject is not seen through the lens, so the viewfinder shows only that the subject is in focus and the rangefinder shows only that the subject is in focus, and the photographer uses this as a guide.
Thanks to this system of shooting with the rangefinder, the depth of field and distance information on the lens is extremely accurate, and the accuracy of the depth of field is high, so that even when the lens is slightly stopped down, a picture can be taken with the depth of field as a guide. You don’t have to look through the viewfinder and focus on the subject every time you want to take a picture.
In fact, newspaper reporters used to take pictures of celebrities and politicians by “hand-held” (i.e., holding the camera above their heads with their hands outstretched, and taking pictures of them in the midst of a large press corps).
I’m not going to go into the product description, mechanical description, and the vast amount of knowledge about the M Leica, as there are many such things out there.
(Film is the image sensor in the modern sense of the word, and can also be called the camera body.)

There are three main types of film.

Color is reversal and negative, and monochrome is negative.
When taking photographs, it is important to understand the characteristics of reversals and negatives, so here is a brief explanation.
A negative is a film that records a reversed image. The process of negative film is the reversal of a positive image and then the reversal back to the original to create a photograph. When a picture is taken, there are bright areas (highlights) and dark areas (shadows), and negatives, due to their structure, are more forgiving on the highlight side and more severe on the shadows.
It is true that negatives are often said to have sticky highlights and crushed shadows, and while it is basic to set the exposure to the correct value when shooting, if you think the subject is a little dark, shooting brighter tends to produce better results.
The structure of a reversal is the opposite of that of a negative, so highlights are more severe and shadows are more forgiving.
This is the same characteristic as that of a digital camera, so it should be easy to understand.

Reversal film (Fuji Provia 100)

This is a film for reflective manuscripts, known as a positive film, which produces more accurate colors than color negatives.
When I first started using film, I often used this film because it was the closest to digital film.
This photo was taken of a tourist in Asakusa who approached me and we chatted for a while with a large aperture wide-angle Summilux 21mm/1.4 lens attached to an M3 from the 1950s. Leica lenses are very high performance, and the sharpness is very high and the image is very sharp, even on film. I often take pictures with a 21mm lens at f/5.6 with the focus plane set at 3m, but with this set up, the depth of field (the range where the subject appears to be in focus) is pan-focus from 1.5m to infinity, so I can take pictures very quickly without focusing by simply framing the subject. You can take a picture very quickly.

Leica M3 Summilux21mm Fuji Provia100

Color negative film (Kodak Portra160)

If you are older than a certain age and have taken pictures with a camera in the film era, you have probably used this type of film at least once.
Compared to the photo taken with the reversal film above, the color tones (orange and yellow) are a little warmer, but this is a characteristic of negative film, which tends to turn warm in strong light and cool (blue and green) in weak light. However, nowadays, with digital cameras, the camera can take care of these corrections for you, and many people may prefer to leave the colors as they are, as if they were taken with a film camera.
This picture was taken with the DR Summicron 50mm lens on my M3. This lens has a high resolution that is as good as modern high-performance lenses, and I left it attached to my M3.

Leica M3 Summicron 50mm(DR) Kodak Portra160

For comparison, I also had a digital M10 on the same day, so I will also include photos taken with the M10 so that you can compare the differences between film and digital.

Leica M10 Apo-Summicron90mm

Monochrome film (ILFORD DELTA400)

From here, we will start with monochrome film.
One of the interesting things about monochrome film is that you can develop and print the film yourself.
This photo is also a scan of a film I developed myself, but it was developed with ILFORD DELTA400 film in what is called “straight development” (ISO400 film shot at ISO400 and developed at ISO400). The film was developed using ILFORD’s DDX developer, which differs from the normal process in that it is a dilute developer (i.e., the developer solution is made thinner than specified to lengthen the development time). The dilute development process is used to control the development of the film in order to bring out the silver tone of ILFORD’s DELTA film, which has a characteristic of producing very beautiful light gray (silver) highlights.

Leica M3 Summicron50mm(DR) ILFORD DELTA400

Monochrome film (Kodak Tri-X400)

Here is another monochrome film photo. This one is called Kodak Tri-X400, which is the industry standard and is probably the most famous film you will ever see.
The interesting thing about this film is that by simply changing the sensitivity, you can get completely different images and tones, and it is very interesting to control the tones.
I can’t introduce it all here, but when I use Kodak Tri-X400, I use ISO 200, 400, 800, 1600, 2500, and so on, from pull (reduced sensitivity development) to push (increased sensitivity development), changing the sensitivity and development according to the shooting conditions and my shooting intentions. Another feature of this film is that it is very straightforward in the way it captures light, so it is easy to imagine what the print will look like when you take the picture. The sweet potato leaves I am shooting this time have an indescribably soft tone, which is created by reducing the sensitivity at ISO 200. Kodak also offers a high-performance film called T-MAX. This film has high sharpness and high resolution, and the intensification can go up to 3200, but it has a slightly harder tone (more digital-like) than Tri-X, so I often use Tri-X.

Leica M3 Summicron 50mm (DR) Kodak Tri-X400 (Pull200)

Conclusion.

Since Corona, I have stopped taking photos, but after reviewing the photos I took in the past, I am thinking about taking photos again. I could use a digital Leica, but film is still interesting, and since a 35mm camera can only take 36 shots, it is also interesting, and it is very interesting to start developing and producing black-and-white tones. I hope this article has piqued your interest in the M-type Leica, whether digital or film.

One of the reasons I stopped shooting film is that my favorite developer, R09 (Rodinal), has completely disappeared from the market, but it has recently reappeared in the market, which is another reason to start shooting film.

Shop.

I buy my film cameras from Onuki Camera in Yokohama.
This store is also a long-established store and carries a variety of cameras. They also have a wide range of accessories and peripherals, and their main focus is on photography, so no matter how old your camera is, it will be well maintained and if anything goes wrong, they will fix it.
The staff is also very knowledgeable and skilled in photography, so they can help you with any problems you may have with your photos.
This store can satisfy everyone from beginners to experienced photographers, so if you have a chance to visit Yokohama, why not extend your visit?

Onuki Camera WEB site

“Onuki Camera WEB site” Global shipping is not supported. Come to the shop when you come to Japan.

2023-06-18