In our previous article, we introduced you to the New Balance 1700 series, and now we will introduce you to the 991 series.
While the 1700 series is an extension of the old New Balance design, the design of the 991 series, known as the 900 series, which we are introducing here, has a somewhat modern impression. We will talk about such 991 series.
The 991 in Small N.
Originally, my favourite New Balance sneakers were the 998 series, and I liked the grey models in this series so much that I wore out three pairs.
When I looked at the New Balance website, I found that the 998 was no longer on sale. At that time, it became this 991 series that the UK model was sold to be a candidate. I immediately went to the New Balance Roppongi shop to check the actual product and asked to try them on as they had my size in stock. The specialist fitter helped me choose a size and fitted me, and I actually put them on and walked around a bit to check the feel, but they were very good, so I bought my first pair of 991s in grey here.
Once the feeling is good, I thought I would buy them including spares, and I bought them, and it became 991 that the leather of the upper became yellow, which I introduce this time.
Yellow is a good colour match for navy, and it is a good combination for sneakers that I wear mainly with jeans, but yellow sneakers are surprisingly rare when you look for them, and until now I have never bought yellow sneakers. Just when I wanted a spare pair of 991s, I found these yellow 991s and bought them immediately.
Actually, I wanted to buy it after fitting at the store, but due to the influence of Corona, I decided to purchase it on the official New Balance website.I have to buy it on the official website of New Balance this time because I know the size in gray 991.
The actual product arrived and I tried them on. 991 is a very stylish and technical yellow, different from the grey image, and I like it so much that I almost always wear this yellow when I wear dark-coloured jeans.
Details.
Combination pigskin suede/mesh upper material
Rubber sole
Visible ABZORB
Likes.
Breathability thanks to the mesh upper.
Ease of walking thanks to the research-based sole material and shape.
Sneaker-like design from functionality.
The design is a little bit modern, but still the same classic design that has remained unchanged over the years.
Exquisite colour schemes that don’t seem to exist.
Points of interest.
As mentioned in the 1700 article, the excellent cushion feel can be a little uncomfortable in applications suited to shoes with thin, hard soles.
But once you get used to it, it’s fine.
Conclusion.
As I mentioned in the 1700 article, the New Balance 900s were initially made for running, but their functional beauty has been sublimated into fashion and various people are enjoying them as fashion items. It says that the excellent cushioning feels uncomfortable for special applications that don’t require cushioning, but it doesn’t matter at all to most people, so it’s a very good sneakers with no weak points. Also, the yellow 991 colour is a great match for darker coloured jeans, and I’m very happy with these sneakers, which are used frequently and are very easy to use!
Shop.
This 991 was purchased from the official New Balance store due to the time of purchase.
The Corona is coming to an end and social activities are returning to their pre-Corona state, so if you have the opportunity, you can visit the official store and a specialist fitter will help you choose a pair that fits your feet, so I think you will be satisfied with your purchase.
I love sneakers and wear them almost all the time on holiday. I have been wearing them for about 20 years and still wear New Balance.
1700 in small N.
New Balance sneakers are very popular and I often see people wearing them around town. I have a habit of buying three pairs of what I like, and I always have three pairs of New Balance sneakers with me. Inevitably, because they are sneakers, the heels, soles and uppers deteriorate and can no longer be repaired, but because I wear three pairs in rotation, they last rather long. Currently, I wear three pairs in rotation, the 1700 and 991 beige and grey pairs that I am introducing here. Before this line-up, I used to like and wear the 998, but the sole and heel were ruined and I had to discard them in tears, but they were discontinued and I couldn’t buy them, so I bought and wear the 1700, which has a similar design.
One of my rules for buying New Balance is to buy UK models with a small N mark. I have not done so consciously, but I used to shop at Barneys New York a lot in the past, so I think it was influenced by the fact that there were many UK models of New Balance stocked by select shops such as Barneys New York. I like the design with the small N mark and have been using the UK series since then.
The good points of New Balance are that they are well made, easy to walk in, have good breathability due to the mesh upper, the sole material and thickness are appropriate and I don’t get tired when I walk. I wear them casually, but I have become so accustomed to their benefits that it has become difficult for me to wear other trainers for many years. The 1700 series is the basic design of New Balance, and although it is a conservative model, I have many opportunities to wear it because some of the technologies employed make it easy to wear. I wear them mostly with jeans, and in summer I enjoy wearing them with cut-off jeans.
Details.
Combination pigskin suede/mesh upper material
Rubber sole
Likes.
Breathability thanks to the mesh upper.
Ease of walking thanks to the research-based sole material and shape.
Sneaker-like design based on functionality.
The classic design that has remained unchanged over the years.
What we like about them.
Due to the design of the cushioned sole that makes it easy to walk in, it is not as easy to accelerate, brake and clutch when driving a car with a manual transmission compared to a flat sneaker with a thin, hard sole.
The above is a matter of getting used to them.
When riding a road bike with binding shoes on a regular basis with sneakers, as with a car, there is a feeling that the soft sole misses the tread force.
This is also not a problem once you get used to it.
Conclusion.
The New Balance 1700 were initially made for running, but their functional beauty has been sublimated into fashion and various people are enjoying them as a fashion item. This time, in the point of concern, it is written that the manoeuvrability is not good when riding a manual car or a road bike on a daily basis due to the cushioned sole, but for most people, it does not matter at all, so it is a very good trainer with no weak points.
Shop.
I buy my New Balance shoes at New Balance Roppongi 19:06 in Tokyo Midtown. New Balance shops tend to be crowded, but if you go to New Balance Roppongi 19:06 on a weekday, you can shop at a leisurely pace and a specialist fitter will help you to choose a pair that really suits your feet.
New Balance also has an extensive official website, and if you know your size, you can purchase on the website.
I loved C Diem about 20 years ago and became so obsessed with it that there was a time when I would go on holiday wearing it, but I have also passed C Diem on to a junior colleague who I talked about in the Berluti article. I would like to talk about C Diem this time.
About C Diem.
In the early 2000s, when asked what kind of clothes I wore the most, I would answer C-Diem. , I wore this leather shirt, a linen shirt, a long-sleeved T-shirt with cut-outs, zip-up boots and laced boots in rotation, with a single horse leather rider at the top. The bottom was also the West Coast denim that was popular at that time, and the most comfortable was the Stitches heavy-ounce bootcut with damage, which I wore with a thick, antiqued HTC studded belt, which was my casual style. Fashion-wise, the closest thing to this C Diem was Carol Christian Poel and Paul Harden, and although I didn’t end up buying Paul Harden, I had a Carol Christian Poel cotton tailored jacket with a top and bottom cut, which I wore occasionally. C Diem and Carol Christian Poel are popular with people in the beauty industry, and I would give my C Diem single rider, Carol Christian Poel tailored jacket, long-sleeved T-shirt and laced boots to junior people in the beauty industry. The junior colleague to whom I gave them is overjoyed, loves them very much and wears them with great care.
At that time, I hesitated to give it away and left the leather shirt, the linen shirt and the zip-up boots. Later, I gave this leather shirt, zip-up boots, linen shirt and long-sleeved T-shirt to a junior colleague to whom I had given the Berluti, and he likes them as much as the Berluti and wears them with great care. Like Berluti, I have given this C Diem to someone who wants an item I bought almost 20 years ago, and when I give it to him, he wears it with care. However, unlike Berluti, the manufacturer has retired and the brand itself has disappeared, so there is no longer a system in place to take care of it. However, the two people I gave them to found a skilled tailor and repairer, who takes care of them and fixes their sizes, and they wear them with care.
I am writing this article because I think it is a wonderful thing that the two people to whom I have given the clothes I have bought and worn with love and affection are wearing them with the same love and affection as if they were treasures, which, like Berluti, is connected to the word sustainability. I am looking forward to the future, thinking that the clothes and shoes I am currently obsessed with will also become so in the future. C Diem is a brand created by Maurizio Artioli, and was active from the mid-1990s until the mid-2000s, with leather and linen clothes characterised by a decadent world expressed not by superficial processing such as damage, but by processing such as wrinkles and corrosion, as if things were decaying. It is a brand that gave birth to a core ardent fan rather than general popularity by a peculiar view of the world. Although it was not mentioned at the time, it has recently been called artisanal, and creators influenced by it have inherited a kind of philosophy and are making unique clothes.
C DiemC DiemC Diem
Conclusion.
Like Berluti last time, C Diem is something that I have worn and cherished with love, and my juniors have taken over and wear and cherish it with love. At the root of it all, there is the beauty of craftsmanship, and although not many people may recognise that beauty, I feel the beauty of wearing and cherishing things with love whenever I get the chance to hold them, and I hope that the things I am currently obsessed with will become so too.
The things I introduce on Hooked on are things I write about here that I love, wear and cherish. There is the wisdom and skill of the makers, the universality and beauty of their work, and my satisfaction in wearing them, but I also feel that they are accompanied by the commitment and social nature of the makers and sellers, and I hope you will be interested in them.
Shop.
C Diem and other products introduced here were purchased at the time (early 2000s) at Barneys New York Yokohama shop. Recently, I’m not interested in trendy items, so I visit the shop less often, but all the products in the shop are great, and every once in a while I visit the shop and look at the products, and there are many items I want to buy.
Recently, a few years ago, I bought a cashmere knit from Aranui and a stadium jacket from Slogan. When I go to the shop, I make new discoveries, and the staff pick out interesting items for me, so I like to visit when I have time.
Last season, when I looked in the Ginza shop, they were selling Paul Harden, so if I have the chance, I would like to buy some.
In this issue, we talk about Berluti shoes, which inspired us to launch this media.
Introduction.
Nowadays, environmental considerations are attracting a lot of attention, along with the word sustainability. I’m going to talk about Berluti’s commitment to sustainability, which I felt when I handed over my Berluti Alessandro to a younger colleague.
Berluti Alessandro, my favourite Berluti Alessandro.
The Berluti Alessandro is an oxford in terms of shoes, and while oxfords are formal shoes and usually have the image of being worn with suits, Berluti’s unique Patine colour has a beautiful tone that is unique and goes well not only with suits, but also with blue jeans. I bought these shoes in 2005 at the Aoyama flagship shop.
At the time, Alessandro wore them with suits by KITON suits purchased at Tie-Your-Tie, and with jeans by Stitches and Paper Denim and Cloth, which were the premier denims of the US West Coast, and were popular at the time.
The shape and colour are lovely, but they have a unique form, and although they look like they have strong habits, they are very active when you want to be a little fashionable with a wide range of clothes to match them with. I originally like leather shoes with a bit of a bland shape, and I still own a pair of Jhon Lobb shoes with an Outer wings double sole that I wear with a suit that I only wear occasionally. The three pairs were purchased around the year 2000. I bought these three pairs around 2000 and still own them more than 20 years later, and although I no longer wear them every day, they are well cared for and stored in a shoe box. I love Jhon Lobb shoes, but they are very orthodox men’s shoes, so I don’t wear them with jeans, but with suits and creased trousers.
Passed on to my juniors and they love them too.
As I get older, my casual style shifts more and more to easygoing, sneakers with jeans and Jhon Lobb derbies when I wear suits, and my Berluti Alessandro’s are less and less in demand. I take good care of the ones I buy and like, and put them away, so the Berluti Alessandro remains in my closet as the months go by.
Then, a junior colleague of mine, who is very interested in fashion and actually quite stylish, comes up in conversation with Berluti. So, when the conversation turns to whether I should give him a pair of Berluti that he hadn’t been wearing, he is overjoyed. However, shoes have the shape and size of the foot, so I say to her that she should try them on once, and when she does, she can wear them without any problem, so I decide to give them to her junior colleague. This time, although it is not shown in the photos, I will also give them away together with a loafer that was sold in the past called Dandy Sauvage, this Alessandro and a belt that matches these two pairs.
Berluti’s excellent response.
I give the Berluti to a junior colleague, so when I visit Ginza, I go to the Berluti Ginza shop to buy some shoe care products, which I give to the junior colleague. I tell the shop assistant that I want to change my Berluti customer registration, which I bought more than 15 years ago. I give her my phone number and name, which I registered at the time, and she leaves the customer registration in my name.
Later that day, I take a junior colleague and tell her that I want to register a junior colleague as a customer and leave the shop that day, but again, when I enter the shop, I am shown to a sofa, I tell her my requirements and she brings me a drink.
Later that day, I visit the shop again with a junior colleague, but the story I told her about giving away shoes I bought more than 15 years ago and registering the person I gave them to as a customer has been passed on, and she completes the junior colleague’s customer registration that day. At the same time, they carefully explained the care of the shoes, colour repainting and re-covering of the soles, etc., and asked me to look at the products since I had come all this way, while the person in charge explained and showed me shoes, leather goods such as bags, and apparel that was not available at the time I bought the shoes. I was shown the shoes, leather goods such as bags and apparel, which were not available at the time of my purchase.
Berluti Alessandro
Conclusion.
One of the things I felt during this whole process was that there are people who want to shoes that I bought almost 20 years ago. When I gave them away, they were grateful and wore them carefully and well. The shop that made the product had kept a good customer list even after almost 20 years had passed since the purchase. That when you tell them that you have given the product away, they create a customer list for the new owner and treat the customer with care, providing the same after-sales service as they would for a newly purchased customer. The shop supports the customers to use the products carefully for a long time, thereby eliminating waste and making it a matter of course to take good care of things, I was impressed by the stance of the Berluti shop, which takes this for granted. Berluti shoes are beautiful, but I felt they were a little too glamorous for me , but the staff suggested that if I wanted to match them with my current vintage jeans, I could order suede undies (loafers), and they showed me some suede samples. The staff member said, “I can make a suede andy (loafer) to order. They are expensive products, so they are not something I would buy without hesitation, but when I think about whether I will be able to wear them for a long time with care, I suddenly become interested. Also, the junior member of staff to whom I gave the shoes feels that black Andy are also good, so if I have the chance, I would like to order some. I am now thinking of creating this media because I have reconfirmed that it is wonderful to have things that can be used with love and care for a long time.
Shop.
The Berluti shop we worked with this time is the Berluti Ginza shop.
The shop is prestigious and has a difficult atmosphere to enter, but when you enter and talk to the staff, they explain the products to you in a polite but gentle manner. you will be taken to a sofa and offered mineral water, orange juice or sparkling water, where you can take your time in choosing your items.
The shop is famous for its shoes, and the Patine shoes are beautiful to look at and have a unique world view that only Berluti shoes can bring out. Bags and wallets, etc. are also wonderful, and all the goods with the dignity suitable for the man of the middle or more to have and a little adult wit element that seems to be a French brand are wonderful. Moreover, because it is a brand that started from leather shoes, the handling of the skin is good, and the quality of the leather goods is one head above other brands. Apparel also has the tolerance that can naturally coordinate even if it adds it to the clothes that it has because there are a lot of items that twist is heard, and the trend is not followed too much extremely though it puts effort, and shoes also develop sneakers, and orthodox, and it adds to the clothes that it has. The leather jackets developed for autumn and winter are the quintessential leather experts, and the texture and quality of the skins used are outstanding.
The shop’s interior has a Parisian atmosphere, so why not visit on your holidays when you are in Ginza?
One-piece tailoring, great for spring and summer. M43 field jacket with two chest pockets
M43 HBT Field Jacket
Introduction.
I like military gear and often wear a one-piece M43 in spring/summer and a lined M65 in autumn/winter. This time we introduce the M43, which is very active in spring and summer.
Introduction.
I like military gear and often wear a one-piece M43 in spring/summer and a lined M65 in autumn/winter. This time we introduce the M43, which is very active in spring and summer.
About the M43 HBT Field Jacket.
Many people who like vintage clothes like US ARMY clothes, of which the M65 is the most famous. The M43 introduced here is a field jacket issued to the US Army during World War II in the 1940s. HBT stands for herringbone twill, a field jacket made from cotton herringbone twill fabric, hence the name. The M65 has a lining, a dedicated inner lining and a longer length, so it is mainly worn during the autumn and winter seasons, while the M43 is a single-piece jacket with no lining and a short length, so it is not as hot as the M65 when worn during the spring and summer seasons, and is more like a thick shirt when worn during the spring and summer seasons. The characteristic form is two large breast pockets and no side pockets. The fabric is cotton herringbone, so worn ones have a unique texture. The body width and armholes are relaxed so that it can be worn as an inner layer in cold regions because it is a shape that was considered for wearing in the military. I often wear it with jeans, and often match it with jeans that have faded rather than darker jeans. In summer, I wear it around my waist during the day and wear it at night when it gets a little cooler, and I love it throughout spring and summer. The length is short, so you can roll up the sleeves and enjoy wearing it with shorts. I like this item because it was made with functionality as a priority and has become a functional beauty over time, so I have many opportunities to wear it while also cherishing and loving it.
Example of wear.
M43 HBT Field JacketM43 HBT Field JacketM43 HBT Field JacketM43 HBT Field JacketM43 HBT Field JacketM43 HBT Field JacketM43 HBT Field JacketM43 HBT Field Jacket
Details.
100% cotton (herringbone twill)
Box silhouette, A-body
Shoulder, body and armholes are moderately roomy.
Sleeve length and body length are neither long nor short, so the silhouette is easy to match.
Crew neck T-shirt : Brunello Cucinelli Slim Fit T-Shirt
Hat : COMES AND GOES
Watch : Rolex Sub Mariner 1680(1972)
Sunglasses : Ray-ban WAYFARER 90’s(BAUSCH+LAMB)
Belts : HTC
New Balance 1700
Conclusion.
This time, we introduced the M43 as a field jacket to be worn in spring and summer. It can be worn as a field jacket, but if you wear it with the feeling of a slightly thicker shirt, you can broaden the range of your outfits. Because it is a genuine military item, it is mainly worn hard, but it is also an excellent outerwear that can be worn with beautiful items and still look elegant.
Shop.
The M43 HBT Field Jacket introduced this time was purchased from Post78. Post78 handles many high-quality, long-lasting items that the shop owner, who loves clothes, is particular about, and I often shop here. I also enjoy talking about fashion with the owner, who loves clothes, when I shop there.
European vintage classic French workwear moleskin jacket
French Moleskin
Introduction.
When it comes to vintage clothing, American vintage clothing is the most common, and even people who are not interested in vintage clothing are probably familiar with military clothing such as the M65, leather such as A2, and denim from Levi’s and Lee. This time, we will change our perspective to Europe and introduce French vintage clothing. As you may know if you like European vintage clothing, French work jackets were worn by workers before the war, and the moleskin jackets introduced this time were actually worn by those who worked in coal mines. Moleskins are also made from a sturdy cotton fabric like jeans, and since they were used at the same time as vintage jeans, many of them have been aged in a unique way like jeans, making them very attractive. In this article, we will introduce the moleskin French work jacket.
About moleskin jackets.
Unique texture different from jeans.
Moleskin fabric is made from a slightly finer yarn than jeans, which gives it a unique sheen and soft texture. Unlike jeans, where the colour fades in stripes, such as beards and beehives, which are often referred to as vertical fading, the colour fades on the surface, fades entirely, and the worn-out areas become shiny.
European A-body and refined silhouette.
Moleskin jackets were originally the work clothes of coal miners, so naturally in order to facilitate movement, the armholes are thicker, the length is a little longer, the body is wider and the overall silhouette is called A-body, with no narrowing at the waist and a stooping silhouette from the shoulders down. The A-body was made with priority given to ease of movement, but it has a somewhat cuter silhouette than the more form-fitting Y-body.
European G-Jacket in terms of atmosphere.
The form has a collar, left chest and side patch pockets, and slightly larger front buttons, and was originally designed for use as workwear, like military and jean jackets. This form is a form that does not feel out of place when worn as modern outerwear. I feel that this form is closer to a G-Jacket than to military wear, so I enjoy wearing it like a G-Jacket.
French moleskin I use.
My favourite moleskin work jacket was made by a manufacturer called Le Mont ST Michel and is said to have been distributed between the 1930s and 1940s. It is black in colour and I have chosen a size 42 true to size. If I originally wore it as workwear, I would probably choose another size up for ease of movement, but I love this size because the shoulder width, body width, length and sleeve length are in line with modern fashion styles. In addition to black, the blue ones are famous, and the blue ones are also attractive because it is easier to see the ageing and the colour is often a beautiful blue. I often wear jeans on the bottom, so I choose black, but if you want to match them with chinos or white denim, blue is very attractive and elegant.
Influence on men’s fashion.
Various designers have used French moleskin workwear as a motif for casual outerwear. The most famous example is the French moleskin outerwear made by TOM FORD, which is available in black, beige and khaki colours. The result is a very stylish outerwear. The jeans and G-Jacket are also made of moleskin, and this item has a different tension from denim, and the TOM FORD worldview is well expressed in casual wear.
Convenient outerwear that goes with everything.
I often wear a moleskin jacket over jeans and a white T-shirt or a white polo shirt, but because it is a single piece of tailored black outerwear, it is an item that can be worn with any style and is a very convenient outerwear that can be worn with any outfit. My favourite ones are the ones that are true to size, black in colour and not too damaged, but there are also ones on sale that have been repaired with patchwork in the damaged areas. The patchwork itself has its own quirks, but this is exquisite and makes it attractive even if you dare to choose a restored piece to wear.
Example of wear.
French Moleskin Wearing a slightly smaller size.French Moleskin It looks like it could pass as Margiela vintage clothing.French Moleskin A little smaller, so the height and width look more contemporaryFrench MoleskinFrench Moleskin Made by Le Mont ST Michel.
Details.
100% cotton
Box silhouette A-body
Shoulder, body and armholes are moderately comfortable.
Sleeve length and body length are neither long nor short, making the silhouette easy to match.
This time, I introduced the French work jacket, a staple of European vintage clothing. My basic style is American vintage clothing, but when I combine it with European vintage clothing, I get a kind of urban mode feeling, which is interesting and I love wearing it. Like jeans, they were originally workers’ work clothes, and their functional beauty has made them attractive over time, and I find it very interesting that today’s designers have taken that appeal and turned it into a motif. As it is a single-piece outerwear, it is active in early spring and autumn, but even in summer, it is a very convenient item with many opportunities to wear it, such as wrapped around the waist during the day and worn at night. It is made of cotton, so there are different tastes, but you can enjoy wearing it in a way like I do, holding it roughly by hand and wearing it without worrying about wrinkles. French moleskin is still available if you look for it, but due to the nature of second-hand clothing, each item is in a different condition. It is also difficult to find the right size, but it is fun to look for something that fits you slowly, so if you are interested, I think it is fun to look for it.
Shop.
The French moleskin jacket introduced this time was purchased at Post78. Post78 offers a wide range of high-quality, long-lasting items that the owner, who loves clothes, is particular about, and I often shop here. I also enjoy discussing fashion with the shop owner, who is a clothes lover, when I shop here.
50’s printed corduroy shirts with attractive patterns.
Introduction.
I love vintage clothes, basically American vintage clothes, jeans and military vintage clothes. (I also like European vintage clothing, but I’ll show you that in another section.) I especially love vintage clothing from the 1950s, and the printed corduroy shirts I’m going to introduce here have a unique texture and pattern from that time that is hard to make today, so if there is a pattern I like and it fits my size, I end up buying it. In this issue, we introduce printed corduroy shirts that were sold in the USA in the 1950s.
Attractive, but not a pattern you can find today.
I myself like relaxed clothes, clothes that I can quickly put on without thinking too much, and I don’t have many shirts with a casual style and a crisp fit. However, when it is cold in short sleeves during the day in spring and autumn and in short sleeves at night, a casual shirt that can be woven roughly instead of a jacket is useful. The representative of such a casual shirt is a flannel shirt, and I have a lot of flannel shirts.
However, there are many people who patronize a flannel shirt, and the motif of the pattern tends to become a lot of similar things, too, and it becomes a printed corduroy shirt to be useful when I want to wear the shirt which is not flannel. Compared to flannel shirts, they are less common, so there are fewer manufacturers and brands that are currently making them, and I don’t think there are many opportunities to see them.
The printed corduroy shirts introduced here were sold in the USA in the 1950s. Because of the historical background, many of them have very interesting patterns, and the one introduced here has a basic pattern of red, brown, white and black diagonal checks, which seems to be an unlikely pattern. When I bought this shirt, the one from the same period in the shop was an orange-based shirt with a unique colour, which was very attractive, but I didn’t end up buying it because it was too big for me. At first glance it looks loud, but when worn it blends in well, and the colour and pattern are very well balanced when worn with jeans.
The shirt features a rather large collar, with a loop hole for the top button and an open collar. This shape is also difficult to accept in modern times, but the colours and overall design are unique, and the shirt becomes an attractive shirt that fits surprisingly well when worn over the body.
Printed corduroy shirts, even if you want them to be modern.
This often comes up in conversations with friends who like clothes: why can’t we make attractive old clothes from back then now? and the conclusion is that this is not a technical problem, but because it is not a viable business.
The printed corduroy shirts introduced here are the kind of products that were sold in the supplies department of large supermarkets at the time, probably on a national scale, so you can imagine that a considerable number of rods were made. In this historical context, a product that could be produced and sold in large quantities could be a viable business. In the 1950s in the USA, shirts with this kind of design were everywhere, people had many opportunities to see them, many people naturally wore them, and they were produced in large quantities because it was a business, but as time went on and more comfortable and easy-to-wear clothes were made, people’s tastes changed and they gradually stopped selling. However, as time went on and more comfortable and easy-to-wear clothes were produced, people’s tastes changed, and it can be imagined that they gradually stopped selling, shrank in scale and eventually ceased to be produced.
Today, even if someone wanted to make and sell corduroy shirts with this unusual pattern, it would not be possible to sell them in large quantities because the times have changed and diversified even further. If it cannot be sold in large quantities, it will be produced in small quantities, but when it is produced in small quantities, the selling price will rise. The conclusion of the conversation with the friend was that, although they understand the appeal of the shirts, they cannot charge high prices for a single shirt, so they naturally become a product that does not sell well, and therefore are not generally made in the modern age. I am digressing, but I feel that the charm of these printed corduroy shirts from the 50s is further enhanced by the fact that the patterns and designs of the time are very attractive and, moreover, there are no similar products in the modern era. I love this printed corduroy shirt from the 50s. As I wrote in the article on TOM FORD military shirts, TOM FORD is making a slightly expensive but attractive product with this 50’s corduroy shirt as a motif.I love printed corduroy shirts so much that I bought one without a second thought.
The 50’s printed corduroy shirts that I love and use because of the patterns and details of those days were mass-produced in those days, but there are only a few of them left in existence, and even if they are, they are in poor condition. It is very difficult to find a pattern that you like and a size that fits you. Compared to jeans of the same era, it is a fairly niche market, so there is little information and few examples of people who like vintage clothing using them, but if you actually get one and use it yourself, it is a very easy-to-use shirt. If you see one displayed in a shop by itself, it looks gaudy, but when you actually wear it, it fits well, so if you find one you like, we recommend you try it on for a trial run. It’s an interesting shirt that fits well when worn with a 501 or a Lee 101 from the same era, and it creates a whole new world by itself. Since I am introducing spring and summer clothes, I am wearing it as outerwear, but in winter, I enjoy wearing it with the innerwear of a Brunello Cucinelli blazer. It is a combination that has absolutely nothing in common, but when combined it becomes a very interesting way of dressing and I hope to introduce this when the season comes.
Shop.
The printed corduroy shirt introduced this time was purchased at Fake-a (Fake Alpha) in Harajuku, Tokyo. I have already introduced it in the article of 501XX 54Model, so I omit a detailed explanation, but the printed corduroy shirt of the 1950s introduced this time is also beautiful as if it were new although it is a product that has been produced for more than 60 years since its production.
The quality of the second-hand clothes lined up in the shop is probably the best in Japan, and there are many treasures for people who like second-hand clothes, so if you are looking for second-hand clothes with high quality, why not visit the shop once? Fake-a is in the same family as the famous Belle Belle Gin in Harajuku, and the websites are common.
TOM FORD’s reimagining of American vintage impresses
TOM FORD Military Shirts
Introduction.
When I think of TOM FORD, I think of sexy, luxurious, flawless styling that can be seen from any angle, and the image of James Bond as played by Daniel Craig.
I became interested in TOM FORD’s clothes when a junior colleague, to whom I had given Berluti and C Diem, was a TOM FORD fan and recommended me to visit their store, which changed my preconceived notion of the general image of TOM FORD, and I suddenly realized that they make clothes that are very attractive.
Then, I acquired the military-patterned corduroy shirt that I introduce here. We would like to introduce TOM FORD’s respect and deep love for American clothing history, which is packed in this corduroy military pattern shirt.
About TOM FORD.
My preconceptions.
When you think of TOM FORD, you probably think of the peaked lapel suit. This peaked lapel is calculated to bring the eye to the chest, making the chest and shoulders look muscular. The TOM FORD clothes I have seen are characterized by their ingenuity in bringing the gaze of a third party to where it should be. Taking a single leather rider’s jacket owned by a junior colleague as an example, the length is short, the sleeves are long, the collar is small, and the zipper is extremely thick, but this form allows the eye to see the elements that make up the torso, This form is designed to make the elements that make up the torso look visually smaller and the legs look longer.
But for me, who likes relaxed clothes, Tom Ford’s well-calculated styling is very cool and tense, but I thought it wouldn’t suit me.
My junior is almost a year younger, taller, and better styled than I am, so these tense clothes suit her well.
The shirt that changed my preconceived notions.
I visited TOM FORD with a younger colleague who wanted to see some outerwear for spring and summer. As I approached and picked it up, I saw that it was a corduroy shirt with a military pattern. As a lover of vintage clothing, 50’s corduroy shirts are my favorite item, so I was suddenly very interested in this shirt. I ask the clerk to help me try it on. The clerk takes a look at my body shape and brings me a size that looks like it will fit. I pick it up and try it on. When I try it on, I find that it is a TOM FORD, and although the styling is perfect, it does not have a shape that emphasizes my body lines as I had expected, and although it is a shirt, I can wear it as if it were an outer garment. It is moderately roomy, so there is no tightness of movement, but the length of the body and sleeves are perfect, and it looks well styled. Despite the corduroy shirt, the styling looks like a just-fit camouflage field jacket.
As a lover of military field jackets, I love the shape and end up buying this shirt. The interesting thing about this shirt is that it pays homage to the 50’s corduroy shirts, but with an element of camouflage jungle fatigue dropped into it, mixing the best of both worlds in a good way. Naturally, it feels exactly like corduroy to the touch, and looks like a corduroy shirt before you put it on, but when you put it on, the extra width and sleeves of the jungle fatigue shirt look just like a well-fitted military shirt. I like vintage clothing, so I have both 50’s corduroy shirts and jungle fatigue shirts and love them. I have always thought that if the body width and sleeves were a bit narrower, they would look cool with modern styling, and I have often wondered if I could resize them and change these areas. However, I have respect for the original product and have come to the conclusion that it is best to wear it as it was, so I end up wearing it as is, but sometimes the desire to resize it comes to mind.
I am impressed by TOM FORD’s respect for the history of clothing.
I was touched by TOM FORD’s military-print corduroy shirts this time, and I was impressed by the fact that they have successfully resolved my desire in this area, and that they respect not only the sexy and luxurious but also the iconic products in the history of American men’s fashion, while proposing modern modifications of them. I was impressed by the depth of TOM FORD’s nostalgia.
Come to think of it, TOM FORD himself is an American, and perhaps it is only natural that he has special feelings for American clothing, which he has been familiar with since childhood.
My junior chose a moleskin black denim (although not denim) G jacket, and this G jacket is also based on Lee’s old G jacket. I was moved by the playfulness of tailoring this with moleskin, and when I left the store and had a meal with my juniors, Tom Ford’s respect for the history of American fashion became a hot topic.
Example of wear.
TOM FORD Military ShirtsTOM FORD Military ShirtsTOM FORD Military ShirtsTOM FORD Military ShirtsTOM FORD Military Shirts
Details.
Outer fabric (corduroy) 100% cotton
Lining 100% cotton
Combination.
Corduroy shirt : TOM FORD size 39 (US)
T-shirt style henley neck knit : TOM FORD size 46
Denim : Levi’s 501XX54 model Waist 30inch:Length 32inch
Boot : White’s
Hat : Ten-C
Watch : Rolex GMT Master 1675(1964)
Sunglasses : TOM FORD
Conclusion.
A junior colleague of mine introduced me to TOM FORD, and when I picked up a corduroy shirt that I had casually seen at the store, I found it to be extremely attractive, and when I put it on, I was surprised to find that it was a very special item.
It was a case that made me reflect on the fact that it is not good to be a picky eater, and reconfirmed the importance of going to the store as much as possible to take a good look at things. There are many other attractive products, and it is a quintessential TOP MAISON that has a wonderful view of the world that I would like to wear if I had the chance.
To match this corduroy shirt, I also bought a thin black henley neck knit T-shirt and a crew neck knit T-shirt, which also reflect the wonderful TOM FORD’s world view, and I hope to introduce them in another section.
Shop.
The military pattern corduroy shirt introduced here was purchased at the TOM FORD store in the Hankyu Men’s Building in Yurakucho.
Hankyu Men’s Building has a variety of stores, from famous top maisons to interesting brands with a twist, so you can find what you like as you stroll through the building. The flagship stores directly managed by top maisons are excellent, but the threshold for entry tends to be high and there is an atmosphere of difficulty in casually entering the stores. The store in Hankyu Men’s is like a corner of a department store, so you can easily take a peek if you find something you are interested in.
TOM FORD in Hankyu Men’s has everything from suits to casual wear, shoes and underwear in a chic store. At first glance, the staff may seem difficult to talk to, but if you ask them to show you the products, they will kindly explain them to you and allow you to try them on at your leisure.
They suggest styles while comparing similar products and sizes to suit the customer. While the store has a very stylish and cool world view, it also offers casual wear that even an old man like me who likes secondhand clothes can appreciate, so why not visit when you come to Ginza?
In summer, I often wear a white T-shirt with blue jeans. I have been looking for a good, universal white T-shirt, and this is the gicipi GRANCHIO pocket T-shirt made in Italy, a basic white T-shirt with a crew neck. This time we would like to introduce this T-shirt.
The standard for underwear in Italy.
gicipi has been making underwear in Italy since 1948. gicipi is a manufacturer that continues to produce high-quality underwear with its own integrated production and a policy of using only natural materials. The GRANCHIO introduced this time is made of fine threads that are processed to make them shiny and to remove downy hair on the thread surface, so it is very comfortable to wear and the fabric is firm, so it is characterized by its resistance to sagging.
The silhouette is a little large for a pocket T-shirt, but not too large and has an appropriate amount of room. The fabric is shiny and has a silky texture, so it is easy to put together elegantly even when worn alone, and it is comfortable to wear, so it is an excellent item that comes in handy when spending the hot summer season wearing just a T-shirt.
The fabric feel is similar to the Brunello Cucinelli T-shirt introduced in another section, but it is a T-shirt that can be worn a little easier and rougher, as it does not require the style, fit and comfort of the Brunello Cucinelli T-shirt. The fabric is shiny and elegant, so you can enjoy using it as an inner layer for a jacket. The size feeling is similar to CAMBER, but unlike CAMBER’s heavyweight and stiff, this T-shirt is made of twisted fine yarns, so you can enjoy CAMBER’s style in a soft, resilient and comfortable fabric. The fabric is soft, supple and pleasant to the touch.
Regular fit with a little room against the body line.
Soft and firm fabric, not transparent despite being a white T-shirt.
Neck cut-out is normal.
Sleeve top normal, cuff ribbing normal, roomy.
Normal length.
Combination.
Crew neck T-shirt : gicipi GRANCHIO size 3
Denim : Levi’s 502 60’s
Sneakers : New Balance 1700
Hat : 47 (forty-seven)
Watch : Rolex GMT Master 1675(1964)
Sunglasses : TOM FORD
Belts : HTC
Conclusion.
By combining gicipi GRANCHIO, which has a CAMBER-like silhouette and is elegant and comfortable from the fabric’s feel, with the standard summer style of blue jeans and a white T-shirt, you can enjoy a high-quality style that is not possible with ordinary cotton T-shirts, whether worn alone or as an inner T-shirt.
It is soft and comfortable to wear and has become my summer staple. I have purchased three of them in khaki and black as well as white and enjoy rotating them. I’ve worn it with jeans this time, but it goes well with shorts, military trousers and chinos too, so it’s handy to have one as you can wear it with all kinds of pants.
Shop.
gicipi GRANCHIO is purchased at Post78. Post78 handles a lot of high-quality, long-lasting items that the owner, who loves clothes, is particular about. I also enjoy talking about fashion with the owner, who loves clothes, when I shop there.
In the summer, I tend to wear white T-shirts more often than I do blue jeans. I have been looking for a good, universal white T-shirt and this is the Wasew Crew Neck T-Shirt from Okayama, Made in Japan, which is a basic white T-shirt that I love. This time we would like to introduce this T-shirt.
Evolved Haynes.
As you can see from the photo, the base is inspired by the Hanes pack T-shirt. In the last 10 years or so, the greatness of Japanese apparel has developed products that take a classic American item and modify it with current Japanese technology to overcome the weaknesses of the original while having a finish that is more authentic than the real thing.
The Wasew introduced here is also made in such a way that the Hanes T-shirt will yo-yo in its best condition when you keep wearing it. This idea can also be found in jeans based on the Japan denim 501 motif, and is similar to the development of products where you can buy rigid denim and enjoy the cool fading of vintage 501s.
The Wasew T-shirt has the exact form of a Hanes pack T-shirt, but with a subtle modern styling that makes it look good when worn, and like the original Hanes pack T-shirt, shrinkage and sagging occur when worn from new, The T-shirt will age in a unique way.
The Hanes pack T-shirt is like the original 501 – it’s a whole new world, but one of the problems is that it tends to show through the nipples, and Wasew overcomes this weakness by using a slightly thicker finish and a softer cotton fabric knitted more loosely, so it’s comfortable to wear and styled. The result is an excellent white T-shirt that is both comfortable to wear and beautifully styled.
The great thing about the Wasew is that while styling is beautiful, the form of the Hanes is not destroyed, so the atmosphere when worn does not destroy the image of the American style T-shirt, and when worn with the 501, the American style of the royal road is easily and coolly completed. Schiesser Revival is introduced in another section, but the other side is German-made European style, tight fit, long sleeves, stoic and a little tense style, while Wasew is a little looser, shorter sleeves and not loose fit, The Wasew is a little looser with shorter sleeves, not a loose fit, but a somewhat relaxed American style, and you can use this style in different ways depending on the jacket you wear with it.
Example of wear.
Wasew Crew Neck Neck to shoulder lineWasew Crew Neck Upper body is styled with a relaxed look like this.Wasew Crew Neck Royal style with 501XXWasew Crew NeckWasew Crew Neck The combination of white T-shirt, blue jeans and GMT Master also fits well.
Details.
100% cotton
Regular fit with a little room against the body lines
The fabric is soft and a little thicker, so it is not transparent even though it is a white T-shirt.
Neck cut is normal.
Short sleeves, thick ribbed cuffs, roomy.
Regular length.
Combination.
Crew neck T-shirt : Wasew size M
Denim : Levi’s 501XX 55Model
Hat : Fresh service
Watch : Rolex GMT Master 1675(1964)
Sunglasses : TOM FORD
Belt : White House Cox
Conclusion.
You can enjoy a great American style by wearing the classic summer style of blue jeans and a white T-shirt with a crew neck by Wasew, which improves on the weakness of the Hanes style
It’s soft and comfortable and has become my summer staple. It goes well with shorts, military trousers and chinos, and you can wear it with any trousers, so it’s handy to have one.
Shop.
I bought my Wasew crew neck T-shirt from Post78. Post78 has a lot of high-quality, long-lasting items that the owner, who loves clothes, is particular about and I often shop here. I also enjoy discussing fashion with the owner, who loves clothes, when I shop here.
