John Lobb
Two John Lobb
There are two John Lobb entities frequently mentioned in discussions: John Lobb London and the Hermès-owned John Lobb Paris. However, the vast majority of John Lobb shoes encountered in Japan are produced by the Hermès-owned John Lobb Paris. My own John Lobb shoes are also Parisian products.
To put it simply, John Lobb London is a traditional bespoke (full custom) shoemaker, whilst John Lobb Paris operates more like a luxury shoe manufacturer, selling ready-made shoes and offering bespoke services akin to London upon request.
Purchasing John Lobb London shoes requires travelling to London to place an order, making it rather inaccessible for the general public. In the past, they would visit Japan annually in June, holding an ordering event at the Hotel Okura.
Some twenty years ago, I considered placing an order at this Hotel Okura event, but as opportunities to wear suits diminished, I ultimately did not proceed.
The dream associated with John Lobb London’s bespoke service lies in the preservation of one’s own last, much like the storied lasts of its renowned patrons (including the British Royal Family and Churchill). Such a dreamlike experience is exceedingly rare.
From what I recall, the minimum order at the Hotel Okura event was two pairs. You could choose from several Derby and Oxford styles, select the leather, and specify the shape of the toe, heel, and sole. I believe the price was around £4,000 per pair.
Derby and Oxford
When I first purchased John Lobb shoes, British footwear conjured images of wing-tip derbies, with full brogue detailing and eyelet work epitomising the British style.
The double soles were quintessentially British in construction, robust and sturdy – the sort of no-nonsense, rugged footwear suited to walking on country soil, embodying the country gentleman aesthetic. Such shoes were precisely to my taste. (This preference remains unchanged to this day.)
Regarding John Lobb’s Oxfords, iconic straight-tip styles like the City and Philip come to mind. For a time, John Lobb was practically synonymous with the Philip 2 due to its extensive media exposure, so even if you didn’t know the name, you’ve likely seen them.
My perception of Oxford shoes was that they were slightly more formal than Derbies, intended for ceremonial or formal occasions. If Derbies were the shoes worn in the English countryside, then Oxfords were the shoes worn in cities like London – that might make it easier to understand.
I used to frequently browse the John Lobb London website back then. The image that stuck in my mind was one of bespoke excellence, catering to many historical figures, representing the pinnacle of gentlemen’s footwear.
Viewing the actual photographs of the shoes they produced, however, revealed surprisingly simple, almost primitive designs – in a way, rather clumsy in their styling. Yet, it is precisely that clumsy Derby form that embodies the image of British shoes I adore.
The Barros I’m introducing this time isn’t a full brogue wing tip Derby, but it is a U-tip wing tip Derby sharing that same robust, no-nonsense image common to full brogues. The double sole is precisely why I chose Barros.
From my youth, I have favoured a slightly more relaxed style over sharply tailored suits, preferring blazers and such. Naturally, my taste in footwear leans towards derbies over Oxfords.
The practicality and robust simplicity of John Lobb’s derbies at the time, embodying the British country gentleman aesthetic, aligned perfectly with my own preferences. This motivated me to purchase three pairs of double-soled derbies within a short period.
This time I’m introducing the Barros, but I hope to feature the Darby and Chambord double-soled derbies in a separate article. For introducing these two pairs, I’m considering taking photographs wearing suits I hardly ever wear anymore.
Barros
My Barros was purchased in 2000, so the last used at that time was 2998. Whilst I do like shoes, I’m not a specs maniac, so this is based on general knowledge: 2998 is a last exclusive to Barros, manufactured at the John Lobb factory.
It’s a double-soled, five-eyelet, wing-tip Derby, resulting in a slightly more casual U-tip. A famous shoe with this form is the JM Weston Golf. The Golf has a rubber sole and appears slightly thicker from the side, whereas the Barros has a more streamlined form with reduced thickness.
Not just the Barros, but a characteristic of John Lobb shoes is the pronounced curvature from the sole to the upper along the sides. This construction is what defines the highly praised comfort of John Lobb shoes.
Examining it closely, the meticulous stitching, the beautiful curves of the toe and heel achieved through fine craftsmanship, and the lustre from the high-quality leather all stand out. However, viewed as a single pair of shoes, it is a moderate U-tip Derby, a shoe where robust, no-nonsense elements outweigh any flashy features.
The curve from toe to heel is beautifully formed, and this curve is designed to enhance comfort rather than merely for visual appeal.
This traditional, slightly rounded U-tip Derby shoe is a superb design whose very moderation ensures it remains timeless and never grows tiresome.
Compared to contemporary shoe designs, it features a slightly rounded form with a less pointed toe.
I had them serviced this time and had rubber soles fitted. This means I can wear them without issue even on slippery surfaces where leather soles would be problematic.
The shoe boxes of that era featured natural-coloured paper, with the shoe’s name (sole), size, last, colour, and leather quality handwritten in ballpoint pen.